Wednesday, April 20, 2011


OMG, OMG - my T shirt sloper is THE SHIT! It's rare that I don't pick at every flaw until I dislike a homemade garment, but version 5 is everything I ever could have hoped for:
  • Just the right amount of scoop - not too low, nor too high
  • Perfect in bodice length and in the shoulder width
  • Nicely curved in at the waist to accentuate - not boxify
Tonight's product started out very dicey. The rayon jersey was not cooperating. I know it has a tendency to sew badly (or well) seemingly depending on the day, but I was shocked by how unwilling it was to work with the twin needle. Thank God you can't really see the navy stitches on navy background of the U neck because it's vaguely tragic.

In a panic, I decided to pull out my walking foot to pair with the twin needle. I thought everything might come to a screeching halt but the two devices worked harmoniously together - and the walking foot completely ameliorated the rayon issue.

I'm so grateful to say that was my only challenge. The top went together in an hour (it was already cut and prepped). I used the serger for everything but the top stitching (bold - or insane - I realize, but I'm actively trying to develop a feel for the machine).

The jersey drapes like a dream and the shirt fits me perfectly.

This sloper has taken 5 prototypes. Just like my pants sloper. So it seems, 5 may be a magic number when it comes to making muslins (albeit some wearable ones), adjusting the paper patterns, and starting again. Really, it's so worth the effort.

Of course I will show photos. Just have to find some time to take them - though will be off from work for the next few days, which will help.

This weekend, my sewing plan is to make 1 more T shirt out of the black rib knit and to use the new denim - or maybe an elegant wool pin stripe - to construct another pair of my sloper pants. (You can read the whole saga if you search for V1166.) I know I'm about to embark on the jeans sew along, but I can't wait any longer for a new pair of pants. I've worn the other 2 pairs I've made into the ground. I love having hand-constructed clothes that I effortlessly reach for because they work.

The good news is that this weekend's projects are tried and tested. Of course, every fabric responds to a pattern in its own fashion. I just hope the sewing goddess is with me as I hum away on my machine... Please stay tuned.

But while we're waiting, tell me about a sloper you've constructed that has blown your mind? What hard-won, much-altered pattern has changed the way you wear your clothes?


  1. Congratulations - I am thrilled for you - and a bit jealous!!! Fantastic! You are inspiring me!

  2. Awesome! I have much the same history with my knit sloper... Painful! But so great to have now, especially since I made a Bristol board template without the seam allowances, so it's super easy to trace and alter.

    The Jalie jeans were not so hard to alter---most of the changes I made were stylistic rather than fit-related---but they have definitely changed my life. I can now have as many comfy, perfect jeans as I want!

    Can't wait to see photos :)

  3. Congratulations! I love it when a sloper fits. My most hardwon pattern,, but also the one that makes me happy every time I use it, is my pants sloper. I started out with a Burda pair of pants, and over the course of 5 muslins (which might indeed be the magic number) I discovered the right fit. Most crucial change; completely changing shape and scoop of the crotchcurve. Exhausting, but such a rewarding undertaking as I have not only a sloper that helps me to adjust commercial patterns in the right way, but also a much better understanding of all the curves of my body which helps in sewing pretty much everything, not just pants.

  4. Congratulations! I can't wait to see the pictures :)

  5. Congratulations Kristin!

    Now I'm inspired to try the sloper, that is after I finish Miss R's summer dress.

  6. Pammie: Oh, no jealousy!! All the fun can be yours with a(n action packed) week of work. And the joy will live on!

    T: You're sew modern sewist with the bristol board! I want to have mine laminated but I don't know where to go.

    Roses: OMG - maybe that's how long it takes to model the average body from a basic pattern? My pants experience was very rewarding too. The crotch curve thing (and grasping the idea of negative space) is very cool.

    Carla: Soon!

    Myrna: It's a great feeling. To balance all the trauma of garments that don't quite do it :-)

    Susan: You must try it next!