See the wine on the floor?OK, I actually think I might be getting somewhere but my fix is SO BIZARRE I wouldn't believe it if I hadn't come to it with trial and error pinning. Note: I'm about to make muslin 8 (I think it's 8). I've actually started tracing the pattern pieces because I'm afraid of the cuts I'm making now.
Here's the sleeve in its original form:
There's slightly less curve on the right side (the front sleeve) than on the left (the back sleeve).However, given the changes I've needed to make to the side front piece - and to get things to fall smoothly in light of a) where the side front meets the front at the armscye and b) the topography of my chest leave me with a sleeve that looks like this:
Again, the right side of the photo is the front sleeve. From the sleeve head to the left (the back sleeve) there are no alterations from the original pattern.I've pinned this and it works. Is this even possible???
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Possible and correct. I can't get her site to load right now but the Fashion Incubator lady has a post on sleeve caps wherein it is explained, at great length, why your sleeve is good and the other kind (nearly symmetrical front/back) is bad.
ReplyDeleteWow! I remember seeing that post when it came out and I had NO idea of what Kathleen was talking about. I guess I really see what she means now.
DeleteWow, crazy but go with what works.
ReplyDeleteLet's not get too excited before this next muslin is together :-)
DeleteYep, definitely a better sleeve!
ReplyDeleteHere's the Fashion Incubator article: http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/sleeve_cap_ease_is_bogus/
Thank you for this!
DeleteThat is insane! (And I love the addition of the wine!)
ReplyDeleteJust in case you thought I've been joking about the booze :-)
DeleteAlexandra is right. Here's the link to
ReplyDeleteFashion Incubator
Crazy how things work :)
Wow - I'm really learning a lot, apparently.
DeleteYes, and check out this link about hollow chest adjustments: http://designrefinebemine.blogspot.com/2012/03/hollow-chest-adjustment.html
ReplyDeleteand about sleeves as well: http://thenakedseamstress.blogspot.com/2012/03/m-muller-sohn-review-sleeves.html.
I don't think you have a "hollow chest" but I understand the problem of having a small frame and larger bust. I wonder if this would help. Good luck!
Thanks so much for these links. Will check them out pronto!
DeleteSee, I am totally in awe of how tidy and well-ordered your sewing space is. Even with wine on the floor.
ReplyDeleteUm, I have no idea about the sleeve, but if it's working, go with it. :)
Ha! I almost started to cry when I looked at how all of my materials were everywhere. I saw my inner frenzy appearing on the outside.
DeleteThe Fashion Incubator article was the first thing I thought of when I read this as well! You've made a carbon copy of her altered sleeve! Great minds. I'm so pleasedthis fits - you're right to make another muslin. At this point you may as well make as many as you need and a final one when you think it's all ok just to make sure you haven't done something like forget to add a seam allowance or something (which I've done).
ReplyDeleteI'm on the next muslin and - believe it or not - this morning I woke up panicked thinking that I cut the sleeve and armsyce without leaving the 5/8" seam allowances. However, at this point I'm too confused to remember what I did. So I'm making up the (already cut) muslin and hoping for the best. I can always stitch at .2 of an inch, if necessary, to determine whether I've done that - and reflect the SAs back onto the pattern. Stay tuned.
DeleteCoco Chanel spent her entire career perfecting her sleeve draft and even with a three piece sleeve she felt she never did achieve perfection so all of us have much to learn!
ReplyDeleteSleeves, where they meet the shoulder and armpit, bring the same challenge as pant legs, where they meet the hip and crotch. These tube intersections are tough!
DeleteThe sleev is looking good, but may I suggest that if your sleep cap is that hollowe out at the fron (whereas your chest clearly isn't), you might consider a small forward shoulder adjustment to put the fabric allowed for the bust into the right place. I looked at your latest muslin and there is pulling at the sleeve seam next to the bust. looks like a small forward shoulder adjustment. Don't worry, you can still make this adjustment, even after you have cut the fashion fabric.
ReplyDeleteThanks Ruth - I made this adjustment thanks to comments and it worked great!
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