Sunday, April 15, 2012

The Tailored Suit: Assembling the Shell

I've been insanely productive this weekend - which is awesome - but I'm amazed by how much goes into a tailored jacket. The steps are endless!

On a positive note, cuz I like to throw a few of those in every once in a while, I have had a great time since I finished cutting those bound buttonholes. I've probably put in about 16 hours this weekend and it really shows!

Here you can see the hair canvas on the front panel and the hair canvas of the back stay (on the right side of the pic). I used hair canvas for the stay, although Gertie recommends muslin because a) S suggested it will stretch less and b) I'm so out of muslin it's ridiculous. Hair canvas, though, I have quite a bit of (so far).

See the lapel roll. I'm very happy with it's proportions. It might seem small here, but when it's on, the lapel and bust area are well-matched.

Here's a long shot of the entire shell. I'm really happy with the shape...

Finally, here's the under collar assembled but pre-pad stitched. Since I took this photo I have done the pad stitching and shaped the undercollar on my tailor's ham.

 Believe it or not, I still have this left to do:
  • Insert sleeves
  • Insert under and upper collar
  • Assemble facings and sew them in
  • Assemble lining and sew it in
  • Hemming
  • Completing the bound button holes
  • Trimming (i.e. shoulder pads)
 Then there's the small matter of sewing up the skirt.

I've tried on the shell and it fits very well in the bust. But I don't really know how the sleeves are going to insert. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't nervous. S, my fitting friend, has kindly offered to come over and help me to sort it out, if necessary. One thing's for sure, I'm not going to do the bias easing on the sleeve head until I've tried to pin the sleeve in, as is. I am prepared to have to make some adjustments here. Please keep your fingers crossed for that step. And stay tuned for more.

16 comments:

  1. Wow! Just wow! You rock, girl!

    ReplyDelete
  2. It is looking very very good!! I have seen Gertie's blog on making a jacket but I don't think I realized all the actual steps necessary!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! After a while, you just have to gloss over all of the steps (until you reach them) or you'd never start!

      Delete
  3. it looks great! i have to admit your million muslins made me scared to start my own...but i am cutting fashion fabric now, and hoping for the best. i love your lapel adjustment - i think the design as is is a little much for those less vintage obsessed. ;)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! Those muslins couldn't have scared anyone more than me :-) I do think that the altered roll line of the lapel makes the look less full-on "vintage".

      Delete
  4. Wow, this really looks great! I'll be thinking of you as you insert the sleeves! I'm so glad you've got a fitting guru to help you with this-- this seems like it would have been really tough to fit without a second person. Good luck!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Ginger. I may give it a preliminary go tonight - at least have a look at things.

      Delete
  5. *wild applause* I have never tried to make a jacket, but I am endlessly impressed by those who do. It looks amazing so far!

    Sleeves are not generally an issue for me, but sewing a jacket means dealing with sleeve heads so....it's good that you have a helper, and I will be sending positive vibes your way.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oooh, I love applause! And I didn't think sleeves were an issue for me either?! :-)

      Delete
  6. Wowsers! Next, make one for me? haha, just kidding, please don't hurt me! This looks like a lot of work, but it's going to be an incredible result :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Get in line, Sistah! :-) And thank you for the continued support...

      Delete
  7. Lookin good! I love looking at the insides--thanks for showing! You're gonna rock those sleeves, I know it.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Amy - it's not going to badly on that account (in the end...)

      Delete