It's So Random

I have a sense this week is going to be rather busy, judging by how it's begun. So I've decided to just throw it all out there and unburden myself in an unstructured fashion. Lucky you!

• For starters, I have such PMS that I'm actually concerned for the safety of those around me. There is nothing that isn't bothering me right now. I mean, I went out after an unsuccessful shopping excursion (more to come on that and, really, what was I thinking?) and bought 3 large bars of chocolate. With salt. Seriously - if only this stuff came with booze and Advil it would be nature's perfect food.

• In an irony, Sunni has tossed me over to the dark-side with this post on her new cover stitch machine. I must have one but they appear to be all back-ordered in TO and I can't order from a US vendor - which is to say they can't ship to Canada. I've got some tricks up my sleeve. Let's see how it goes on not sewing hems that look like drunken mice at work. Truth is, I sewed without a serger and all was well. Then I got a serger and it was life-changing (in a sewing context). Now I've had a serger for almost 3-years and I feel it's time to make my hems look as professional as the rest of my seams. I always say, you can't do your best work without the right tools.

• Do you have a online-purchase of vintage buttons habit? I do.  It's a very inexpensive way to enrich your crafting, support small-business and get packages in the mail. Really, you should spend hours a night on Etsy...

• ...Or on eBay, researching bras. Here's my latest bra adventure experiment, Cleo by Panache Bella bra and undies (more to come, of course, when the products arrive):

Vendor: Just Bras

Vendor: Whisper Lingerie (I've used this vendor before with success...)

• I'm hoping for a similar fit to the Melissa - also Cleo by Panache. Frankly, I'm obsessed with this brand and it's deeper-cup offerings. And it's one of those weird patterns I can get with.

• Something that can't get with me, apparently, is a basic "nude" bra to wear under all of the things one wants to wear with inconspicuous - but still hot - lingerie. Ever since I fell out with the Fantasie Smoothing Balconette - that one that seems not to work on me anymore, sigh - I haven't been able to find a replacement. As recently as today I tried a local boutique for the Empreinte Melody Full Cup Seamed bra - different than the Melody in that it isn't molded, it has a seam and it has a ribbon at the upper cup:

This photo - of the black version, natch - from Here

•  The caramel colour aka the "nude" version is just lovely - not granny-like - and it looks fantastic on Veronica (which is what inspired me to try it). Alas, it only starts in a 32 band, which is just too big. Why do they assume that ladies with "smaller" back sizes don't want serious coverage on occasion? This bra is gorgeous, btw, just not right for me. So here's the shout out: I'm looking for a new neutral basic that's highly wearable under all kinds of tops (not lacy or having too much fabric profile). I prefer a front and centre, highly-lifted, "natural"-to-pointy shape. Side-support is welcome. Please provide your feedback!

• To switch gears entirely, the knitting continues apace. I'm about half way through the back piece and I've knit one of the pockets - largely to confirm gauge in K1P1. I appear to be knitting a bit tightly this time around so I opted not to go down a needle size in rib. As a result, the waist and pockets look slightly more prominent than they otherwise would - though in no way badly. I just don't want to have a problem with tight-fit at the end. Of course, I don't want loose fit either.

• And indeed, the bottom layer of the surplice top V8790, does affix at the underarm - as I suggested yesterday. But I must have given up on the instructions at this point because the top layer is affixed at the waist, per the envelope drawing. That potentially explains why I had to shorten the length of the facing on one side - but not really, cuz I had to do it on both sides and I LOWERED both sides (equivalently to 2 inches below the armsyce). I mean, this pattern can't have it all ways. Mind you, this liberates me mentally to fool around with the positioning of the surplice side seams. I'm going to be a bit freer on my next go-around, with the recognition that no one's come forward with much on the positive front for this pattern.

Not sure how much time I'll have to blog this week - though I always seem to be prolific as soon as I say this. In fact, worrying about not having time to write has compelled me to mega-post. I. must. express. myself.

Thoughts or feelings about any of the above?

The Summer Series: Five in Five, Take 3 (aka the knit top that warrants a muslin)

Ooh la la. Let's talk about V8790, shall we?

Get a coffee. It's gonna take a while but I promise to make this the most thorough and exposé-like of all the reviews of this top that you might ever read.

It's hard to know where to start. I kind of love this top (at least on others!), despite how badly my muslin turned out. I kind of think it might not be for me (or those having large breasts - despite how the surplice design leads one to think the opposite). I kind of think the pattern may be flawed. I kind of adjusted the crap out of the pattern so, I suppose, that's what could be flawed. (Note to reader: I don't think so. I was very careful and considered while altering. And the knits are my spiritual people. When it comes to stretch-fabric, I have intuition on my side.) I definitely think the instructions are mediocre.

But let's go back to the second sentence of the last paragraph, the one wherein I tell you that I deliberately made a muslin of this top. Um, in what world is that "quick summer knits-ish"? Do I just like making things difficult?

Actually, I think it was the best idea I've had in a long time. And this is why:

• The instructions are crap. I mean, the written portion is ok, but the photos are SO cryptic that you oughtn't bother.

• I didn't know how the gathers were going to work - or the sizing (I cut a size 10 and it was definitely on the snug side) - or the facing (I freakin' hate facing) and, really, I spent a lot of time learning about them in the course of the muslin construction.

• It's nice not to care about ruining something as you're trying to figure it out. Furthermore, I had this yellow tencel that was never gonna be used for anything else - it's 100 per cent see-through - but it's the same fabric I have in my stash in two other colours (that, I really hope, are less see-through). This was a chance to know I'd be able to a) get rid of unwearable stash while b) making something that I'll be able to remake in a fabric having the same properties. Sweet.

• I altered this pattern quite a bit (the topic of another section of this post, below) so I wanted to see if I'd maintained its integrity. I believe I have.

First let me tell you some neutral observations about V8790:

• This is not a pattern for a beginner! Or even for an experienced sewist who really doesn't dig working with knits. I can't believe the Vogue people have put it in the very easy category. That's high on drugs, IMO.

• It's cut for an Amazon princess with a waist that's 4-feet long.  OK, I'm exaggerating slightly, but if you're short of waist, you should know you'll need to alter it or you're gonna have a tunic on your hands. I removed 3.5 inches and I stand by it.

• This top is all about the fabric. The instructions advise a 2-way stretch knit only (I've seen other reviews that say it requires 4-way but it's not the case.) I think that Vogue peeps are worried about excessive vertical drape stretching the surplice neckline all to hell. In truth, unless you're working with a very stretchy fabric (like rayon jersey) and you make a size that's on the large end of your normal size (i.e. the exact opposite of how I like to wear my knits), excessive drag is unlikely to occur.

• That's because this thing is constructed such that the surplice attaches under the arm at the top of the side seam (where your underarm starts). The net result is that this thing is apt to strangle you with its insanely high cut. I say, go crazy with the stretch-factor. Note: On me this was unwearable - as well as tremendously uncomfortable. I had to alter it. (See below) Egad: I just had another look at the technical drawing and, either I totally misinterpreted the instructions (possible) or the photo is inaccurate?! It shows the front surplice panel attaching at the waist, not under the arm. I've so got to go back and see whether they suck or I'm an idiot! Yet another reason why making a muslin was a good idea.

• It won't work with a thick fabric. The front is two layers thick (as both sides of the surplice attach under each underarm). If you have a thick fabric, not only will it get bulky fast, but it will be ridiculously hot. Even the sleeveless version. The thinner the jersey, the better.

What I Changed:

• I cut 3.5 inches of length from the lengthen/shorten line at the waist. Given the complexity of the front piece, this made it quite difficult to true at the neckline-side of the front (the part with the facing). It took a long time and, in the end, I compared the curve against the original and just did my best to recreate it. Let's call this a workable change.

• I interfaced the facing. I thought it would be too baggy, particularly at the back neck. As it happens, my instinct at the neck-edge is probably sound (as it was in applying interfacing where the neck unit of this top is sewn to the shoulder unit - it's a bit weird, but you'd know what I mean if you were making this). It was not a good idea to interface the facing because that part really needs optimal opportunity to drape. Let's call this a mistake.

• How the surplice attaches to the side seams at the underarm (See above for the part where I might have read the instructions wrong.) Is it shocking that I can't even be bothered to go look at them right now so that I might clear this all up before I press Publish on this post? Hmmm...

• The length of the facing. I found it too long at the side seam (even as the neck was too high). I know - whack. This is possibly because the interfacing altered the drape of the fabric and altered the way it eases over the bust. As I fit and sewed, I ended up removing 2 inches of its length, where it meets the side-seams. I suspect the need to do this will depend on the fabric used so I won't alter the facing length out of the pattern.

What's flat out dubious about this pattern:

• The way the back piece attaches to the neck unit is totally weird and it's as if the pieces aren't meant to go together. Instead of being curves that attach, the attachment is with a series of right angles. Hard to explain. And just as hard to sew.

• I was gonna say, the way the surplice piece attaches at the underarm seam but that could backfire on me. :-) What I do know is that at least one side of the surplice (the one that goes underneath) is supposed to attach at the underarm - that much I'm sure of. I didn't like this. It was very bulky over the thickest part of my chest. So I lowered it - as I did the surplice panel at the other side seam. 

• The facing?! Did I say I hate facing? The only reason why I'll let it go here is that, presumably - were I to have left off the fusible interfacing on the facing, it would have draped better and looked less like a facing and more like an extension of the front side of the neckline.

Why I utterly love my serger and would suggest you give this pattern a miss if you don't have one:

• I finally decided to figure out some of the more fancy features of my serger. In this instance, ruching/gathering. Seriously, it is SO not hard. Essentially, using 4-spools of thread and a longish stitch length, you crank up the differential feed to the highest number (2) and the thing takes care of itself. It took me about half an hour of experimenting with my fabric to determine how I wanted to proceed (with clear elastic to hold the gather, rather than without). Without clear elastic, potentially, one must pull on threads to redistribute the gather - like one does with a regular machine. Note: should you decide to avoid clear elastic, the serger still makes it easier to use the thread-pull gathering method, than a regular machine, and and it maintains the initial gathers better, those created without thread pulling and by the differential feed action). I now realize that, with the serger, I could have done all of my gathering at the last stage of the project, when sewing up the three-layers of side seam fabric, by switching from regular serging to gather-setting serging (at which point I'd feed my clear elastic into the little groove), and then back to regular serging all on the same seam. It's a bit finicky and it takes courage, but it's totally possible. Keep in mind, I serged the side seams after basting them together! Don't just start hacking away at your fabric with a serger before establishing that the seams align.

• If you intend to work with clear elastic (which, admittedly, is not what the pattern calls for but which is the best material to a) gather the sides and b) stabilize the armholes, especially if you're doing the sleeveless version, then doing it with a regular machine is a nightmare.

• This is one of those patterns that really is bound to look homemade on the wrong side, without a serger. There are lots of layers atop one another. There are facings. There are strings for gathering (or else clear elastic). I mean, it'll look nice from the front, but the inside runs the risk of being untidy. And, without a serger, the likelihood is that your straight stitches might skip or inadequately hold the fabric. There's a lot of stress on a lot of seams and I think a serger will contain everything much more securely.

Is anyone still reading??

Will I make this again? Yes, next weekend, likely. If it works, great. If not, I gave it a good try and learned a lot about my serger, sewing with knits, surplice tops and clear elastic.

So, today's questions: Have you made V8790? Did you find the instructions challenging? Did the top fit you nicely? Did you alter it in any way? Let's talk!

The Summer Series: Five in Five, Take 2

Do you ever feel (rightly or wrongly) that you can't catch a break?

I spent today, and yesterday, making the New Look 1-hour skirt. About 8 hours, it took me. And just about everything that could have gone wrong went in that direction.

OK, I'm being dramatic. Here's what went wonky:

• The fucking zipper insertion. I can see that my new machine doesn't like that double-sided tape I'm so attached to when it comes to putting in zips. I went through 3 needles on this task and I think the end result looks vaguely "made by drunk mice".

• The waistband. Oh Lord. I've finally come to terms with something (which I've mentioned before but I'm going to clearly admit to it right now): I have "issues" with waistbands. The problem is, I can't figure out the difference between a waistband and a facing. I know! It's ridiculous. Of course, I know the difference. It just doesn't make any difference when I'm trying to make one. Or the other. And good luck following the directions. It's like my brain stops thinking as soon as start looking at the waist section. This waistband was supposed to have a button but, um, that didn't happen. (More on this below...)

• The topstitched hem.  See "made by drunk mice". I should have lengthened the stitch but, in my sew-blood sugar state, I forgot. I've also got this whack need to make the hem look as consistent on the wrong side as on the right side and, really, short of a cover stitch machine or serious talent, that just doesn't happen. I've got to get a cover stitch machine.

Now, given that this is a 4-piece, 1-hour skirt, I don't even know how I managed to find so many challenges. And it's always when you have the exact amount of fabric and not an inch more, that the gremlins turn up.

On the plus side, I've discovered a little waist trick that's genius (and stupidly easy): Make every waistband 5 inches longer than it needs to be. Then you will NEVER have to worry that it doesn't ease in properly. I did this, this time, and it's the only thing that saved my ass.

Some pluses of this project:

• I don't know where I found it, or what it's called?!?!, but I used the best fucking interfacing ever. It's fusible, white and it doesn't have a bit of stretch. I was skeptical (locating it at the bottom of my stash), but I'm a convert. If only I knew how to find it again...

• The fabric (stash stretch denim) is awesome. I'm so sad not to have anymore. I've made a few things with it, having bought it a number of times, and it has perfect stretch and drape.

• It's a really great skirt and it fits perfectly. It's simple but it does the trick and I can see myself making it a zillion more times. The last time I made it - that being the first time I'd ever sewn anything - it didn't look so hot on completion. OMG, when I look at that first skirt now, I'm part proud, part amused and part horrified. Just the perfect reaction, I suspect. On the nascent-sewist, first go-round, I cut the pattern tissue in the size 12 - not really understanding size when first I started sewing - and it means that this time, with my current dimensions, I need to use scant 1/2 inch seams on a fabric with little give. That's fine, since I have a serger. This skirt reminds me that I should consider making 12s with smaller seams, rather than making 14s that are just nominally too big everywhere.

The major-est plus:

• I kept my cool when this could have failed quite a few times and, as a result, I have a wearable garment: I had some pretty serious waist issues and no extra fabric and I'd ripped out seams twice (about the limit before fabric starts to stretch and get yucky) when I figured out some things... I couldn't reinsert the zipper, which would have been best given how I'd positioned it with the metal zip top at the exact top of the back pieces (how you want it when you're inserting a facing but not a waistband!). That was just bound to end in disaster, I could tell. So I finagled the seams such that the band actually rises as you move towards the zip (it's impossible to explain this, but you'd know what I mean if I showed you) in a very gradual, which is to say unobservable, way. Then I decided that the worst part of a waistband is that it gets bulky where all of those seam allowances meet, so I opted not to press up the wrong-side seam. The fabric was serged and neat so I just stitched in the ditch from the front so that the seam caught the single-layer (vs regular-style double-layer) serged edge on the wrong side. Not only did it give me a slightly wider waistband, but it cut down on bulk considerably. This technique is like a cross between facing (slim but potentially floppy) and a waistband (secure, but bulky and hard to sew down from the right side so that the wrong side still looks neat). And I finally realized that stitching in the ditch is actually under stitching - it's simply done from the right side of the fabric.

It seems I'm gonna have to stop looking at directions when it comes to making waists of simple skirts. I'm just going do what I want to, in the way that makes sense to me.

So, I can't say that the Five in Five has been fun, so far (ask me about the pattern alterations I've spent quite a while making on V8790, the next top I'm intending to make). But it has yielded two wearable items.

I'm so hoping that I'm going to start enjoying this soon.

Today's questions: Do you ever get into a phase where all the sewing seems difficult - even the "easy" things? Do you sew some crappy hems and mediocre zippers and still wear the garments they're attached to out of the house? Do waistbands confuse you??? I don't know why they're so complicated but I always have to think 8 times when I encounter one. Kind of takes the easy out of garments that cover one's lower half :-) Make me feel better, please!

Ask The Bra Fitter: More Questions Answered!

Hey y'all - I've been super busy on all the fronts this week so I haven't had a proper chance to discuss any of the numerous things I find fascinating. (That's code for "write blog posts".) Happily, Veronica is back with another installment of awesome answers to awesome questions. Please let us know if this info is helpful!

 

Kay asks what many of us want to know: 

 

Would Veronica have a recommendation for a non-underwired bra (I don't wear bras with underwire) in a 30 band, having less outer circumference, more depth, less upper bust volume, more lower bust volume, really narrow shoulders... bust cup H-I-J (depending on the day / what I ate the previous week) with plenty of support please? 

 

Hi Kay: Non-underwire bras are really tricky. Unfortunately there is still not a lot of selection, and many styles have a narrow size range. Having said this:

• My favourite is the Freya Dotty softcup. They make a 30H, which is on the smaller end of the size range you wear, but this bra is cut rather big in the cup (and unfortunately a bit big in the back). This bra should work for your shape, and it has great lift, separation and support. 

• My second favourite is the infamous Triumph Doreen. This bra has amazingly firm hold and support and gives great separation. This style starts at a 34 band, but the backs are cut very firm (I wear between a 30 and a 32 band, and the 34 fits well on the second hook). A warning/bonus: the shape is rather 1950s "sweater girl".

• Next up is Aviana's Jacquard softcup. It's very comfortable and gives decent support and will likely suit your shape. They make your cup size, but start at a 32 back, so this bra would require alteration. 

• Finally, Royce specializes in wirefree bras and they make two bras (the Charlotte and the Sadie) in 30H-J. I am vaguely familiar with the Charlotte (I've seen it on maybe 3 women) and not familiar with the Sadie. I find Royce bras are tricky. The straps are often too thin (and can be uncomfortable), they don't give much uplift and tend to give a very separate "east-west" look. But perhaps one of their bras could be made to work.

Ed. note: I've tried the Dotty and the shape is front and centre but it really smushes the boobs together (as bras with no wire all seem to do). The only non-underwired bra I've tried that doesn't smush - at least nowhere to the same extent - is the Triumph Doreen. I can second that I've bought the bra in a 34 and I can wear it on the second hook and I, too, wear a 30 or 32 back. BTW - I LOVE this bra and it's crazy pointy shape. It's truly retro. I mean, seriously, they haven't updated this bra since 1958 and they're proud of it! I also go down a cup size in the Doreen cuz it fits roomily, IMO. I've tried the Royce Charlotte. I never wear it, though I bought it as a lounge bra. It gives a bizarre shape - bad pointy - and it's insanely tight in the back. The straps are strangely positioned to provide maximal hurtiness.

And Anonymous writes:

I have been measured by a pretty reputable store as a 32DD. I have a hard time finding a bra because despite that DD I don't think I'm that prominent. Somewhat of course…DD on a small frame…but to me it seems like my breast shape is more wide than tall if that makes any sense. I can feel breast tissue from my center all the way around to my side and most of the bras dig in on the side and leave a gouge mark by the end of the day. A bigger cup doesn't help because then I don't fill it up.

I've been told the wire shape is called the "smile" and so I feel like I should be hunting for a bra with a wide smile rather than a U shape. So:

1) Is there a brand or certain type of bra style that has a wider smile?
2) How do I get fitters to understand this?

Thanks for introducing me to the term "smile". What a great way to describe an underwire! It sounds like you have shallow breasts with a wide root. I find this shape of bust fits best in a broad demi or a shell-shaped plunge (a shallow plunge with more fullness on the bottom and sides rather than one with lots of depth). 

 

Brands in your size, that tend to have a broad shallow shape, include Marie Jo (the "Tom" is a great shell shape), Prima Donna (many of their lined demis and the "Madison" low full cup) and Curvy Kate's showgirl range. You'll want to avoid Simone Perele and most of Freya. When you are trying on bras, make sure you "swoop and scoop" your breast tissue into the cup to ensure all of the breast tissue is firmly encased in the wire. 

 

Not sure how to help you to get fitters to better understand your needs, as it seems like you have a pretty clear understanding of your body and your challenges with bras! I suggest that you start by clearly stating your situation, and then view the fitting as a way for the fitter to help you (generally women become fitters because they want to help people).  Ask to try some of the styles I've mentioned here and see how it goes.

 

Ed. note: Man, I seem to have a lot to add today! What I'll say is that you know you've found a good fitter when she listens to what you say and encourages you to make bra suggestions to her (or at least is very open to bringing you the brands you'd like to try - even if she senses that they might not end up working on your frame). Bra-fitting is part science and part art. If you and the fitter observe that things are working or not working, you can join forces and move towards the brands, sizes and styles that work best for you. If you don't feel immediate chemistry with your fitter, that's not the death-knell of the experience. We all settle in at a different pace. Remember that fitters see a lot of clients who are really off the mark vis a vis what will actually fit so they sometimes have to develop a "firm" (for want of a better way of saying this) approach to help those women come to terms with new sizing. Some fitters (just people, after all) do this very gracefully and perfectly for the client. Some need a bit of latitude to understand the client better. Mind you, if a fitter is not open to collaborating, I suggest you try on a couple of things and politely move on.

 

Today's questions: Do you wear a non-underwired bra that works for you? Do your breasts have the shallow shape / wide root and, if so, what brands are your faves? My shape is as far from that as could be, so I love learning more about this!

The Bra Adventures: Panache Jasmine

In the spirit of adventurism, this is my latest purchase:

Panache Jasmine, photo from Figleaves.com

I have a lot to say about the Jasmine - which I've been dithering over, but finally bought (online) on the advice from Veronica (it's no longer available at her shop).

But let me suggest that you watch this video, which discusses it in just about as much depth as I'm going to write about it - only you get to see a real person wearing it. I'd like to point out that Erica, the vlogger, has a 30HH or 30J bust and, I'm sure you'll agree, her breasts are in perfect proportion to her body shape. I mention this because we often have preconceptions about bra size based on letters - and they're just as often unfounded. Let me beat this drum one more time: Cup size is irrelevant in the absence of back size. A 28D is 2 cup sizes smaller than a 36B...

Moving on, let me tell you my purchase rationale:

• I've read zillions of positive, glowing, fantastic reviews of this bra from every possible source. I've never read a bad review.

And why I dithered:

• I don't think the pattern (or the bra) looks like much in the photos.
• It seems kind of full-cup for a balconette - even by my standards.
• The wires on Panache bras tend to be wide and, though this bra doesn't follow that mold, I was a bit concerned...
• Like I need another bra?!

I found the set - though I did need to go to two separate vendors - for about 50 bucks (including shipping). That's pretty good given that I paid for shipping twice. Since then, I've ordered another pair of the undies. This thing is still under 70 bucks for a bra and two matching bottoms.

When it arrived I was in the throes of a migraine, so I didn't try it on for a couple of days. I didn't think I could handle disappointment with a headache (and really, who can be bothered with bras when you feel like you're going to vomit).

I needn't have worried. On Veronica's advice, I "sized up" in the cup and back. Really, I sized up in the back cuz I'm at the point where - with UK sizes - I've determined I'm a cup size larger than I was for many years, at least most of the time.

Let's talk about fit:

• The band is very firm so choose the larger, if you're between sizes.

• The bra gives nice forward projection, but not as forward as my Empreintes or the latest Cleos (Meg and Melissa) I've tried.

• It does provide excellent lift and support, but the upper cup is made from very stretchy lace. This lace is what makes the bra optimal for women with lots of upper-cup fullness, those who vary from size-to-size during their cycles, or those who have two breasts of different sizes.

• This bra all but obviates "quad-boob" when worn in the correct size. It's one of those miracle bras that can fit two differently sized breasts (of up to a cup size, I suspect) without one side pillowing and the other shrinking away from the cup.

• The straps are fully extendable and delicate.

Let's talk about fit on me:

• I find the straps to be a bit slender in my size, for my liking. They are very firm so they can get a bit hurty after a few hours (no big deal, though). It makes the bra that much more attractive, in truth.

• The cups fit perfectly (I think it's actually a 4-piece construction given the side support) and provide a really nice shape, but I prefer the front-and-centredness of the Empreintes or Cleo Melissa. Having said this, the centre gore is as high as I'd ever choose to wear. My Panache SuperBra is like this too. It looks good but it's a lot of bra - by contrast, for example, to a somewhat fuller-cup bra with a lower gore (like some plunges). It's certainly not too wide in the wires and the lace does restore the illusion of delicacy.

• The pattern is actually very delicate, unique and sexy in person. I like it much more than I thought I would. Even in that vlog, I don't think the pattern comes across as well as it does IRL.

• There's too much stretchy lace, for my taste. I prefer a firmer upper cup - or at least I'd prefer a bit less of the lace and a bit more of the firm under-cup. While the lace is great for shape, I think I'd rather a bit more upper-cup support as my breasts are not as firm as they used to be.

• I've read a number of reviews about how Panache starched the shit out of the firm cup fabric, so one should wash this bra before wearing and it will soften quite a lot. I guess I'm pretty insensitive, cuz I didn't feel that my unwashed bra was starched or scratchy in any way. I found it kind of soft - especially in comparison with every other Panache bra I've tried (SuperBra, I'm looking at you.)

• The thing I love most about Panache (and Cleo, another Panache brand) is the fit of the band. On my body, the proportions are perfect. The top of the back band fits right under my scapulae (those wing bones) and the firmness is like a gentle grip. There's NO movement (which is my mandate, in truth). But the tightness is in no way excessive.

From my review, you might sense that I like this bra, though it's not true love.

However, the more I wear it, the more I love it - herein lies the mystery of the Jasmine (which Panache had decided to stock as a continuity bra, happily). Is it the sexiest? The liftiest? The most supportive ever? The most luxe? Can't say yes to any of these. But it is a really great bra across a wide spectrum, good for so many shapes and sizes from 30D - 38K (that's about as broad a size-span as you'll ever find and the bra is just lovely). It's also REALLY affordable for a bra with so much functionality and fit-potential. And the undies (which have a lot of give) are super comfortable and look delightful.

A girl cannot live on Empreinte alone.

So, today's questions: Have you tried this bra? If yes, what do you think? If no, does this review make it sound appealing? Let's talk!

The Summer Series: Five in Five, Take 1

Lord, I've had an irritating day. Yesterday, I prepped for the first of the five in five - V1179:

This is the one I've made before - once for myself and once with my friend Nicole.

I'd forgotten how much I hate putting it together. Which is just as well...

For such a simple sack of a dress, it sure is a pain in the ass. This time I made such a fuck up of the cowl attachment that I had to pick it out 3 times and then serge the pieces together and top stitch the serged edges down about .25 of an inch from the cowl seam. So much for stitching in the ditch.

If you looked at the guts, you'd probably say it looks fine. That's cuz I wouldn't let you look for long.

It's still not done, if you can believe it (10 hrs later), because I've had to rip out the hem. Finally, I rolled some wooly nylon for the bobbin (you can only wind this by hand but it does tend to help even out hems on stretchy fabric). My new machine is not adapting as quickly to knits as I might have imagined. The tension is challenging, despite much testing. Even at 3mm, the stitch looks much tinier. Tiny stitches on knits tend to get wavy and ugly. I'll have to come back to the hem tomorrow. I've been really struggling with headaches lately and the last few days have been a bitch. There's just no more juice for sewing today.

I've been very critical of my sewing lately. I sense I've got to park the perfectionism. I mean, I'm only as competent as I am. If I don't intend to stop doing this craft (and I don't), then I'm going to have to manage occasional mediocrity. I don't know why I'm so much more forgiving of my knitting than sewing. Is it that I have so much time with the garment before completion that I come to terms with it?

What's interesting about this dress is that it's very flattering, bad sewing technique aside. It drapes beautifully. I made the 10 and it fits well what with that being my size from the vantage of shoulder width. Given that my rayon jersey is mega stretchy and the dress has a lot of wearing ease, it's just the right size.

I did two things differently this time and I think they're going to stand this garment in good stead:

• Last time I made this, I didn't own a serger. As I do now (and it's got a little spot built into the presser foot wherein one can feed in stabilizing tape like that clear stuff that's almost impossible to maneuver on a regular machine), I stabilized the shoulder seams in a jiffy and with the optimal material. It was so easy! (I do love my serger.) I also used this on the wrong side of the armscye to stabilize it. I folded over the serged-with-stabilizer edge and topstitched it before sewing up the side seams. Looks good and feels firm.

• Then I stabilized the (very inclined to wave) hem by fusing some interfacing to it. Note: You have to fuse the interfacing from the bottom of the hem to the point at which you'll sew or it won't provide the integrity you'll have spent that extra 30 minutes to achieve. I intend to sew a 1.5 inch hem, so I used 3 inches of interfacing width.

In truth, I've worn the original (badly made) version to death and it's held up really well. The wide hem, uninterfaced, is just lovely and the shoulders are solid enough. But this version's rayon jersey is its own thing and I want to treat it properly.

Today's questions: If you've made this dress, did you find it fun to sew? Or was it really unpleasant? Do you hate sewing rayon jersey? (I'm starting to feel really pissed off by it. Modal, double-knit, tencel - they all sew very nicely. Even though rayon jersey has a great drape, it's SO tricky to stitch.) What's your fave knit from a sewing perspective? And finally, do you sew with headaches? What are your strategies for managing the pain while doing finicky work?

Ask The Bra Fitter: An Intro from Veronica and Some Answers To Questions

Hey Y'all: I'm delighted to share an intro from Veronica, and responses to the first two (of many) bra-related questions posed by readers of this blog:

Veronica's Preamble:

First off, I'd like to say a little about my personal conception of bra-fitting. In my opinion the ideal fitting experience should be educational, collaborative and empowering. A good fitter will explain how a bra should fit and discuss particular features of a client's body shape that may effect her choice of bras. Involving the client in this process encourages education, which speeds along subsequent fittings and gives each woman a guideline for shopping elsewhere (i.e., she'll know if she's being hoodwinked into a bad bra).

Fitting should be collaborative because the right choice of bra is never based entirely on technical fit-points. Aspects such as comfort and aesthetics are rather personal, and a fitter can't provide for them unless she communicates with her client. I've never felt comfortable making decisions for clients, instead I prefer to work with them to find what they need. I can make sure the bra is fitting a client, but I can't tell her how a bra feels on her body, nor can I dictate an ideal shape, style or colour. The most I can do is discuss why she wants a bra to fit a certain way, to ensure that there are no obvious indications of discomfort and to offer my opinion on aesthetics. If a client feels better with a slightly looser band, prefers a round to perky shape, or doesn't want to wear a bra at all, that's her prerogative. 

I'm glad that bra fitting has gained exposure through the media (e.g. Oprah, Double Divas), but I'm always a little annoyed by the fact that these expert fitters often present themselves as infallible and that the women being fit are sometimes characterized as foolish for not wearing the correct size. Most women aren't buying badly fitted bras intentionally, they're buying badly fitted bras because they aren't being offered a full range of sizes and aren't aware that there is a whole other world outside of the conventional "bra matrix" (32-36 A-DD). Bra fitting does require the development of particular skills and knowledge (interpersonal relations, spacial awareness, detail orientation and patience), but the only difference between myself and K-line is my level of experience and product knowledge. (Ed. Note: Way to encourage my fanaticism!) I think fitters will always be necessary as they are able to draw on experience and knowledge which most laypeople don't have. Nonetheless, I believe fit education is key as it empowers women to buy well.

Now onto a couple of questions...

Courtney writes:

Hi!  Thank you so much for doing this feature!  I have a questions that's been plaguing me for years.  Where should my underwire ride?  I realized I was wearing the wrong sized bra when I noticed that my underwire was riding 2 full inches below where my breast tissue stops.  But even now that I've been properly sized and have some great bras that fit my shape well, there are still spots where it seems to be riding low.  Is it a problem with sizing, or my boob shape?  My boobs do seem to have a flat spot on the bottom, towards the middle, and that's where it's the worst :)  If it is my boobs, what do I do about it, or do I even need to do anything?

Hello! Thanks for asking. Ideally the underwires should tuck just under the breasts without any gaps. This placement encourages the maximum amount of lift and support and is usually the most comfortable. Reasons for the wire riding low include:

• a too-loose band (because the bra can't anchor itself to your body, it is able to float around), and

• the wrong wire shape (a narrow wire on a woman with a wider breast shape will pinch at the sides and gap at the bottom, an overly broad wire on a women with narrow breasts will usually gap at the sides). 

If the back of your bra is snug enough it will sit straight across your back and stay in place when you move around. So if the problem is the wires, I'd suggest trying some different brands. I'm not sure of your size range or shape, but for a narrower wire try Simone Perele (smaller bust) or Freya (fuller bust) and for a wider wire try Marie Jo (smaller bust) or Prima Donna (fuller bust). While there are many companies out there that cater to different shapes, there are still many many more shapes of women. So if your bra feels supportive and comfortable but there is still a small gap despite trying new styles, don't worry! In bra fitting we strive for perfection, but like all other areas, perfection is rarely achievable!

(Ed note: This table may be useful as a reference for wire-width.)

Marsha wants to know:

Burning question - why is it impossible for me to find a bra that doesn't eventually slide off my shoulders if I move around and actually perform life actions? I've been told that this happens because my bra band is too loose, but it happens with bras whose bands, if they were any tighter, would prevent me from breathing without effort. (We'll talk about uplift, minimizing, etc., some other time.) P.S. The only bra "expert" I ever knew was the somewhat flaky sister of one of my daughter's friends, who worked at an underwear outlet store and had purportedly been trained, but whose opinion I could never see myself respecting. Is there a degree or certification or something that bra experts can get to vouch for their ability.

Do you have narrow or sloping shoulders? If your bra is snug enough to anchor the bra to your body, the problem may be the bra straps themselves. I'd suggest trying a bra with inset straps. This refers to straps that are positioned more at the center of the cup (like with a full cup and some plunges) rather than off to the sides (like with a demi or a balconette). A wider-set strap on narrower or sloped shoulders will almost always fall off (except those of my beloved Empreinte which angles the straps on its balconettes so that they are more centrally positioned at the back of the bras).

As to bra experts, most bra-fitting courses I've seen are tied to a brand. For example, Eveden (they own Freya, Fantasie, Fauve, Huit, Elomi and Goddess) has a fit school, which I think is pretty well-respected. However, if they only work with their own brands, it's cutting out a range of products that might be better suited to certain women. I'm wary of stores that only carry their name brand (i.e. Change Lingerie or Victoria's Secret) or only carry a very small range of sizes (the usual 32-36 A-DD), because those fitters don't have enough sizes and styles to match to the wide variations in women. When I train fitters the process can take up to 3 months and it involves "bra math" (figuring out sizes, working out conversions), extensive product knowledge, identifying which cuts and brands of bras work best with different body shapes and a lot of practice! So rather than looking for certificates or degrees, I'd be more interested to know how extensive their training is and make sure their store carries a good range of companies and sizes. Finally, there are quite a few fitters who want to fit properly and want to help women, but haven't been provided the training they deserve (shout out to the awesome saleswomen at La Senza who send clients my way rather than misfit them)!

So there you go - first in a series of these posts designed to help you with your burning bra questions. Wait. That came out wrong.

Keep asking and pls. do comment if you've found this useful!