Sunday, April 1, 2012

Updated: The Tailored Suit: The Irritation Continues

Nothing new to report except that I now realize I'm going to have to FBA not only the front and side front pieces of the main jacket, but also the facing, interfacing and lining. Suddenly I want to outsource this part of the project.

Furthermore, a princess seam FBA increases the width of the waist as well as increasing the bust area, so I don't know whether I'll need to take fabric out of the waist once I do the FBA.

Add the whole sleeve dilemma to the equation and it's quite a production.

All this is to say, I'm unquestionably going to need to make another muslin before I cut the fashion fabric. Hmmm... Glad I started 2 weeks early or I'd be really behind schedule right now.

Update: OMG - what a PRODUCTION. I've spent 2 hours and just finished (what I think is a correct) FBA. You really need to check out Patty's genius tutorial on this method (for shoulder princess seams), just for a sense of what I've been through. I actually had my computer on my ironing board and I followed along word for freakin' word. Once I've got this sorted - oh, please Sewing Goddess - I will write a post outlining some other useful resources. Now off to cut another muslin.

11 comments:

  1. I probably would have forgotten to adjust those pieces as well!. You'll get through it - another fews hours with the tracing paper. Your second muslin will be quicker. I can see now why couture garments are so expensive!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's only because I read it somewhere - and was also in the process of amending the length of every piece to ease out the puffing in the upper back - that it even occurred to me. Thank goodness, though!

      Every time I tailor (says she, like it happens weekly), I am reminded of the reasons tailored clothing should cost a fortune. I cannot underestimate the amount of effort this takes.

      Delete
  2. Hi! I can't get the links to work for the genius FBA tutorial for shoulder princess seams. Can you give me the link, please? I just bought a pattern for blouse with this seaming, and I have avoided making it up yet bc I know I need an FBA but don't know how to do it. Thanks! Good luck with your jacket... I've been following your progess.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Here it is: http://pattythesnugbug.com/2010/lady-grey-muslin-2-full-bust-adjustment/. I've also updated the link. Let me know if you still have trouble accessing this...

      Delete
  3. Oh wow... that sounds like a veeeery complex adjustment! Shams at Communing with Fabric, has a tutorial on this too.
    Good luck! I'm sure that all the work you are putting into getting a perfect on your jacket will pay off!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Carolyn: I have to check that out. thank you!

      Delete
  4. I'm with Carolyn - I'm sure this will be worth it! Look forward to hearing that it's going well on your next muslin.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you for the vote of confidence!

      Delete
  5. You have much more perseverance than I in these matters. I made a muslin and had to do a SBA. I think the rest is OK, but I find that my ability to see areas that need fitting on myself is limited. I really feel I need a partner to do the fitting analysis. I admire everyone that can look at themselves and see the subtle issues. I can see giant things, but am not able to see the subtle. I cut out my fashion fabric this weekend and completed my buttonholes. I am going with the fusable method so I also did a ton of fusing.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Fitting really is the hard core skill in sewing for oneself, I think. I mean, if you have the money and the time, you can try on every ready to wear thing in the world, and find the things that fit. But when you sew for yourself, you have one garment and it's got to work perfectly.

      I really hope I get to start my buttonholes tomorrow. But maybe I'm dreaming :-)

      Delete