Let's focus first on the challenges associated with this fabric (wherein I'll ask y'all some questions about mitigation strategies), then I'll talk about pluses.
Challenges in sewing thick, textured wool:
- That channel, created by stitches burrowing into the fabric, is a concern. I've lowered the top stitch tension, which helps somewhat, but the bobbin thread is still pretty tight. I've also lengthened the stitches, which does improve things too. Mind you, I wonder if my (lightweight) modern machine is the problem. My vintage Singer's tension is also intermittently problematic (I wonder if it doesn't work so well with thin fabric; at this point I haven't tried it with this thick wool). I intend to see how the Singer sews, but I'm not committed to making the jacket with that machine. It's just too unreliable. Do I need to buy a new machine?? (Yes, I am insane enough to go and buy a new machine for a freakin' sewing project (my current machines were a) gifted and b) an intro machine bought at WalMart when I started sewing). But I'm more inclined to work with what I've got. The lightweight Brother generally works quite well. Should I screw with the bobbin tension (that seems unwise)?
- I'm super worried about bulk. Considering how many layers of facing and interfacing and lining and bound buttonhole "windows" I've got to work with, and considering all the work I've done to streamline the fit, I'd be lying if I said I feel nonchalant about this. Of course, I'll open darts and clip seam allowances closely, but what about the 2x12" strip of bias fabric used to ease in the sleeve? That isn't clipped away. I'm wondering if I wouldn't be better off to use thinner interfacing? Given that I intend to add shoulder pads, I'm not sure if I want an additional layer of spring in the shoulder. Having said this, my understanding is that the easing fabric should match the qualities of the fashion fabric.
- Another concern is that this suit is going to be too warm to wear from May till October - esp. since I aim to finish construction in May. I was hoping for something a bit more 3-season. Of course, I do live in freakin' Canada. Just cuz we're having the warmest year ever doesn't mean we won't have more regular or unseasonably freezing weather just around the corner. (How many Junes have found me wearing a coat?) But I don't like bulk under a coat. Maybe I'm overestimating how thick this wool actually is?!
The Up Sides (which are considerable):
- There is not a lot of fray factor with this fabric. Close to none, really.
- It's got lovely hand. Very soft to the touch and with a lovely, rich texture.
- It's going to hold its shape very well - far better than a crepe would, for example. Given that the design is very structured, that's a huge plus.
- I doubt that any pad stitching glitches will show through on the front side of the fashion fabric (under the lapel, for example).
A few Craftsy-coursers have left messages on that site about concerns over the fit of the side front main or lining pieces (the same ones I've had my majority of trouble with). As yet, there isn't much definitive feedback. I've only had the opportunity to muslin 5 of the numerous pieces that comprise the pattern. While I've carefully considered these pieces, and worked hard to get the sleeve to work with my adjusted versions (adjusted for reasons of my unique shape, as much as to ameliorate the side-front strangeness as I see it), I really hope that I'm able to manage things as I sew. I wonder if challenges are with one size (the 6), or if those of us having trouble are having trouble because we're missing something. Presumably, lots of people have already made this jacket without any issues. I guess, time will tell.
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If you don't like the channel created by the topstitching, why topstitch? As far as I can tell, on thick, springy fabric, the "channel" *is* the part of the topstitching that's visible. If you don't like the look---skip it. :)
ReplyDeleteAs for the thickness, I hope it doesn't end up too warm to wear indoors---as one of the perpetually cold members of the species, I wouldn't worry myself... but I guess we'll see. It's a bit late to change now! ;)
If I recall correctly from posts on Gertie's blog, the bias strip takes the place of a sleeve-header, so the bulk it adds is actually kind of useful. You could of course skip it---there's plenty of other ways to ease a sleeve-head---but I don't think it'll be a problem.
Now quit borrowing trouble and start those buttonholes! (or, y'know, a glass of wine. Your choice. :) )
OMG - you are so right, as always. Who the fuck cares about the channeling as long as I'm not topstitching (and I'm not).
DeleteI know that the strip is like a sleeve head, I just wonder if it will be too much to have a thick sleeve head and a shoulder pad. But I don't suppose it matters much. I can manage it on the fly.
Yes, onto to actually making this jacket.
I've only done this a couple of times now, but that strip of bias fabric can actually be very lightweight (I used muslin the last time). It doesn't have to match the thickness or hand of the main fabric. (I'm guessing Gertie likes lambswool?) It works a bit like a sleeve head and makes the shoulder seam very pretty!
ReplyDeleteIt's so funny... 3 season here is like shorts and flip flops. So I can't help much on with this kind of fabric but this is gonna be one hell of a suit! You'll find reasons to parade in it. (I'm also insane enough to buy a new machine for a project. Wait, I already did that once. It paid off, too.)
I'm thinking of using interfacing despite the fact that Gertie recommends that the bias strip should match the thickness and hand of the main fabric. I think the interfacing might work just as well...
DeleteThe problem may well be the size, generally in pattern drafting the designer starts with their sloper size and then grades up and down to other sizes from there. what the sloper size might be a the designer personal choice, for example in Hot Patterns Trudy's sloper is a size 16 (I know that only because she told me, it impossible to tell unless you're someone like Kathleen Fassenella) . In my experience problems crop up the farther out the sizes go from the original sloper. On the fabric characteristics; its not necessarily a bad thing that fashion fabric is so springy; one thing that might help in case you need to rip stitches is to choose a thread color that is a shade or two lighter or darker than the fabric, that way it will be easy to see stitches. Also during construction with a thick fabric I always steam and pound the seams with a clapper and a tailor ham. The clapper keeps the seam nice and flat and the ham is great for steam molding the bust seams. I have a custom ham made by Stitch Nerd, it's a much better tool than the crappy hams made by Dritz. When I use a ham I always also use a silk organza press cloth. Also pressing during construction on a tailored garment is ESSENTIAL I cannot tell you how often I see a sewist proudly wearing a finished jacket and IT'S NOT PRESSED. Ann has lots of good tutorials about pressing. A lack of pressing is the biggest mistake I see on sewing blogs especially with self-taught sewers.
ReplyDeleteWhat's interesting is that, I believe, Gertie's sloper size is the 8 - she alludes to that.
DeleteI do have a clapper and I will avail myself of it (though I am a bit concerned that the clapper may press the seams into the front side of the fabric and mark it).
I am SO into pressing. That has never been one of my self-taught flaws. Everything needs pressing to look beautiful!
A trick to avoid press marks showing through is to place a strip of brown paper between the seam and the underlying fabric
DeleteThat's a really good idea. And strangely, no sooner than you mentioned this, I saw the tip somewhere else. It's weird how that happens.
DeleteMeant to add: I suspect you won't need easing fabric because the fabric is so soft and the sleeve draft has been corrected; it should set in to the armsyce with very little easing. When a sleeve is correctly drafted in fact it *should* set in that way. Yes that means most sleeve are not correctly drafted because we need to ease them. Also I never use easing fabric that seems a tad odd to me. Sleeve heads yes but not easing fabric. When I set in a sleeve the steps are: sew a row of ease stitches 1/8 inch away from the SA, 2) gather the sleeve cap and pin baste it into the armsyce, making sure the pin comes out right under the easing stitches because this keep the easing ripples towards the raw edge, then I hand baste, remove the pins and sew. I used to sew over the pins but just get a better result with that extra hand basting step.
ReplyDeleteI totally appreciate what you're saying but, in the muslin, I did draft the sleeves with easing in mind (I'd already used the bias strip when I started altering the sleeve head). Still, as you say, the fabric is soft and I didn't do a lot of easing with the muslin (it doesn't ease so well), so maybe I won't need it after all. Hmmm...
DeleteThe one single thing that is most important in creating a garment you'll love is matching the fabric to the pattern. If you are having niggling worries they are worth listening to. Ask me how I know!!! There is just nothing more important. Mock it up as much as you need to to decide if this is indeed the right fabric or not. And, ask yourself the right questions - would you wear a suit that is coating thickness? You have a great pattern now, you can use it on whatever is the RIGHT fabric. If this is it, great. But give yourself the space to find out whether it is or not.
ReplyDeleteErika - being rather forceful to someone I don't know very well! But like I said - I've only made this mistake about 40 hundred times.
OK, I totally hear you and appreciate what you're saying. I am worried (I can't stop myself from being anxious), but I also think my original instinct will pay off. I'm going to start making the jacket in this fabric. If it doesn't work well enough, well, I've got a great pattern. I can always pick up some new fabric. :-)
DeleteRegarding your bulk concerns - I tailored a wool coat earlier this year with some very bulky wool fabric (it was textured & thick & sort of resembled upholstery fabric, really) and I initially had the same worries. I ended up going the route of the Lady Grey & catch stitching down every seam allowance - took forever, but was absolutely work the effort! Also, I pounded the everloving shit out of every seam with my clapper as I pressed it. And you're absolutely right - none of my pad stitching showed on the right side of the fabric. That was nice!
ReplyDeleteI'm really happy to read this! I may catch stitch if necessary - I don't have an aversion to it! Did you find the clapping embossed the seam outline onto the front of your coat? Or was the fluff of the wool enough to keep that from occurring?
DeleteNo, ridges weren't a problem with the clapping/pressing. The fabric was so thick & textured, it really hid everything. Even the super thick areas around the bound button holes.
DeleteMine seems to be acting the same - very happily!
DeleteI had a similar experience with my Lady Grey. I just clapped and steamed the dickens out of it and catch stitched, too. The only place I had any trouble was the collar - careful trimming helped.
ReplyDeleteBTW - I've nominated you for a blog award. You can "pick it up" over at my blog. No worries/pressure if awards are not your thing.
Thanks so much for this lovely recognition, C!
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