Saturday, April 28, 2012

The Tailored Suit: This Lining Pattern is Whack

I've spent 8 hours trying to insert the lining. 8 hours. That's about 6 hours more than, technically, should be required. And I'm not done.

I'm going to speak in depth about my feelings about this pattern, once I finish this project, once I've had a week to let my feelings settle. But I will say right now that the lining is bizarrely drafted (as have other Craftsy people corroborated) and I eventually had to go SO off road on inserting it that it was a) entirely not fun and b) not my fault.

I don't know who else has made the size 6 of this jacket but I would really like to know about any challenges with the pattern you may have had.

Moving on, let's show a couple of pics first:




I know, you're wondering how in the hell this lining went from cerise Bemberg to the most gorgeous Versace silk (milled in Italy). So I'm going to tell you...

A while ago Mardel (the loveliest lady) sent me two yards of this with some gorgeous boots. I was floored by it, right off the bat, but I didn't know how to use it. Today, as I was assembling the cerise lining I noted its thin and cheap-looking mien. I couldn't put it into my labour of love. In truth, I'd been mulling over the silk for the jacket for a while. I was just so nervous to cut into it. It's an insanely complex pattern. I did try hard to match the pieces (its own 2 hour headache) but I did a totally crappy job. Whatevs. The fabric speaks for itself.

Having worked with this fabric (very fray-prone but so high-quality), I will never use anything but silk to line a suit jacket again. Trust me peeps, everything else pales.

Someone asked to see the catch stitched hem:


It's not so exciting but you'll note how much slimmer my hem is than the one in Gertie's course. This is what I mean about not having any spare runway.

Speaking of spare runway, I'm just about as to-the-wire with the lining length. I think that, once I press it, I'll be able to swing it, but to get the jump pleat (that nice fall of the lining over the hem of the shell), I may opt to turn the lining under at 1/2 inch.

This lining is not quite right in the shoulders. I reserve judgement till I insert the sleeves, but I may opt to open the armholes slightly.

Also, and this is bizarre, whatever is going on with the front lining (shoulder princess seam insertion) vs the actually jacket (underarm princess seam insertion), I actually had to make a pleat on either side of the centre back pleat to remove an additional 4 inches of fabric around the back facing. My back facing was 8.5 inches. The lining was 12.5 inches (after inserting the pleat). I tried a number of fixes throughout the day but the one that seemed to work was take 2 additional pleats (tucks really) on either side of the centre back pleat, just at the top of the garment where it meets the facing. Please know that I reviewed every element of the pattern (considering my alterations) and rewatched the course twice. I cannot account for the extra fabric at the back neck other than to think the pattern isn't drafted right.

The lining has screwed slightly with the integrity of the fitting I did on the shell. Because the lining is of a totally different princess shape (shoulder vs. underarm) and because the facing is barely curved, the net result is currently weird. Note: I did ensure that the overall volume of the lining is slightly bigger than that of the jacket, but the way it's coming together is strange. I only hope that some reflection and pressing will make a difference.

I can close it and, when my buttons arrive from Pat Mahoney (yes, I ordered fabric-covered buttons), I think all will be well, but there's no room to spare (as there was when the shell was unlined).

That's where I'm at. Also, I can't turn my head to the left, what with the loathesome stress over this I'm feeling. Oh, I just have to finish this thing tomorrow. Please, let it be feasible, sewing goddess. I can't stand this much longer.

23 comments:

  1. Your jacket is looking spectacular and the lining is TDF!!! What a wonderful gift. I'm sorry you're having a tough time with it. But I know you'll figure it out and this will be one stunning jacket:)

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    1. V: It's so great to see you! Thank you for your support. Mardel really is the most excellent sewing friend.

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  2. I don't know how you can stand it, or how you can persevere through all the challenges this pattern has set in your way. But that is looking like Some Pretty Jacket! I love that lining and I love that you'll be wearing your blogging connection on your back.
    btw, we've reserved at DeKas for next Thursday and will be thinking of you as we savour our meal in that spectacular setting.

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    1. Truth is, I really can't stand it. I'm a nightmare to be around right now.

      But I am SO happy for you to be going to the scene of one of my happiest meals in memory. Oh, please do think of me and drink a glass of champagne for me. And please make sure to blog about your experience - which I seriously hope will be as wonderful as mine was. xoxo

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  3. i don't know how you haven't taken a flamethrower to this thing yet. (this GORGEOUS thing.)

    so, I get the cooling off period to evaluate-- do you think you'll be putting the jacket itself on probation before you can happily wear it?

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    1. It will be on mandatory probation by default, as I wait for the buttons and make the skirt.

      And it's been pretty tense here. I was really worried my lining would fray away before I was able to insert it.

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  4. Well, I for one, can't wait to see it! Yes, that is certainly too much time to put in for a lining - but wow! What a lining!

    I'm inspired by your sew-jo!! Keep it up!!

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  5. The jacket looks positively gorgeous and it really grieves me to hear about the troubles you're having with the pattern. Eek! I wonder even if the pattern was drafted by Gertie herself, if the grading job was improperly done. I couldn't agree more with Oona! A flamethrower would have been in very short order for me. You have the patience of Job sister!
    xoxo, Sunni

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    1. Hey S: I really don't know. I've been trying to figure out what's going on. On the one hand, enough people on the course have mentioned problems that I sense my issues are not due to inexperience or carelessness. On the other hand, it's been radio-silence from Gertie on that board for almost a month (unless I'm really missing something, I do check it frequently for answers to my and other people's questions). I realize that she has a ton of stuff on her plate right now, but many people have paid a lot of money for this course.

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  6. The lining is gorgeous... sorry it's being a pain in the butt! You'll get there!

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    1. Thanks J! I'm going to focus on the end!

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  7. The end is in sight! I'm looking forward to seeing the finished make and your critique of this pattern. I know how annoying it is to put in the lining but I bet once you're wearing it you'll not notice the problems you've had.

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    1. Lining is so irritating! It's like the extra garment you forgot you'd have to make at the end of figuring out the jacket shell! :-)

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  8. Wow, that lining is v beautiful! I hope you can get the pattern to work now you are nearly there!

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    1. Thanks Sherry! Isn't it the most gorgeous pattern??

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  9. It is very strange that the lining has different seams than the outer shell. It's no wonder you're having trouble with it! But all your stress will be so worth it in the end. Your jacket is gorgeous!!!!!!!!!

    How appropriate. One of my words was ffeckno. LOL!

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    1. The idea behind it is that the princess seams wont lie one over the other leading to a crease in the same spot. I suspect that, if the jacket fits well, that's not an issue, but what do I know...

      And I love that word verification!

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  10. My heart sank when I saw the title of the blog post. Really. I applaud your keep to it-ness in this project. I would likely have gone insane and would be incarcerated in a mental health facility by now if I was trying to sew this jacket. Did you see my rant about fitting pyjama bottoms?

    That. Lining. Is. Gorgeous. I can so see why you changed your mind.

    Keep it up, you are inspiring me. Can't wait to see the finished product.

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    1. My heart was at a low point for much of the day yesterday! And we can be sewing-deranged mental health patients together!

      Isn't it amazing how well that lining works with the colour of the jacket shell??

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  11. You must be one of the most patient people in the world! I would have thrown away that pattern ages ago!

    The lining is beautiful. It's going to be great :)

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  12. I've got my fingers crossed for you to finish quickly! :-)

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