Sunday, April 22, 2012

Checking In

Hey Everyone: Just a quick note to say thank you for any comments you've provided or thoughts you may continue to have about my post yesterday. I think my fixes may have ameliorated things. More on that when I have a better sense - but I continue to love your feedback. I will respond soon.

I went to a truly beautiful event this morning - it's overwhelmed me, in truth, and then I came home to the part of the jacket I'd forgotten (isn't there always one of those?), finishing the bound buttonholes. In brief, it did not start well and, 5 hours later they're almost, but not quite complete. One buttonhole was a disaster and I can blame my machine and some utterly useless silk organza. I salvaged it as best as possible and managed to fix it for the other 3. That's a long story I just don't have the energy to relate right now. Good news: I learned a lot. Bad news: I barely care about the crappy buttonhole because all I can think of right now is how I really have to finish this thing. It's not to stay on some kind of schedule. Thing is, it's been great, and now I would really like this jacket to be a lovely completed object I can value for many years (or 10 minutes), not a thing that's staring at me from the sewing room. This is a very big project for a relative novice. I'm feeling it.

As it happens, I woke with a bad headache which, even moderated with lots of ibuprofen, is now fairly brutal. I hope I can shake it by tomorrow but it's got that PMS-y terrible thing underpinning it.

I was hoping to finish the hemming this weekend - leaving only the lining and finishings to go - but I didn't get quite that far. I guess it means we have that many more things to look forward to :-)

A new machine is on the horizon and I would LOVE to know which one you use and why you love or don't love it. A number of people have commented or emailed to express a similar interest in knowing what great machines make your sewing so professional.

I will def. tell you what features I think a serious sewist needs (based on my musings for the past few months), but I don't know what I may not be considering. One thing's for certain - though it may frustrate you, you can make a tailored suit on a beginner machine. I just don't think it's optimal.

17 comments:

  1. Hi! I know just how you feel - seriously - I felt that way making a quilt - although beautiful (and a tiny bit sloppy) I just wanted it to be done - I have patience issues, seemingly. That said, I can't wait to see the unveiling.

    I have a Bernina 430 (bought for 1700 new). I love the Bernina mainly due to the metal bobbin - it is ridiculously precious. I think having metal innards allows the machine to have higher tolerances to ensure precision. Even my featherweight (which has been tuned up) does not have as nice a stitch (Singer 221). I gave away a newer Janome Home Dec that was a very nice machine - but didn't have the same precision. I hope to get a singer treadle to add to my stash. What can I say - I really fell in love with the Bernina - despite the high cost. I do not have an embroidery unit (but it's optional).

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    1. I totally agree with this! I got the bernina 430 during a crazy sale where I bought the 430 at 30% off and got the 700D serger for free. I love, love, love, love my bernina. Previously I had a singer, which I felt hated me as it was so tough to use- nothing was easy to sew, even midweight cotton or wool.

      The bernina 430 is a workhorse and is worth the extra money.

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    2. OK you two - you have me really wanting to try this one!

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  2. I like my machine, but I don't looovvve it. So I am not going to recommend it. If I were in the market for a new machine I would talk to the Bernina people. Those machines never seem to die and every one I have ever known who has one swears by them. A Bernina is on my lottery list.

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    1. So far, Bernina and Pfaff seem to get the most love - as I see it.

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  3. I tried the pink Pfaff (don't remember the number) and if I'd have had the $$$ to plunk down, I'd have taken it home right then (it made better buttonholes than anything short of a vintage Singer attachment). I also tried a Husqvarna....Sapphire 840?? (something like that) and it seemed like a pretty nice machine too.

    Things that I would insist on with a new machine: drop in bobbin (just easier, but not a necessity I suppose), ADJUSTABLE PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE!!!! (this one is non-negotiable for me), a reputable dealer and excellent "mechanics" (also non-negotiable), other than that, everything else is pretty much just personal preference. I stress that you absolutely MUST take your own fabric in to try the machine out. Bring in some jeans that need the hems topstitched and the buttonhole sewn in to test that out, and maybe some slippery knits to see how it handles that, try some chiffon too, etc. Be sure to bring big pieces though--you won't get a good test on a 4x6" strip that doesn't put any sideways pull on the needle like a real garment does. You might need to supply your own needles (depends on the dealer), and I'd recommend bringing your own thread (especially if you try out jeans), but it will be worth it to know EXACTLY how that machine is going to handle everything you'll throw at it.

    Sorry about the novel. Hopefully you'll find something useful in there.

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    1. OK, I want a pink machine! One of the things I'm considering - and I will write about it - is a refurbished industrial machine that comes in a table. I've done no research on this yet, but there's a place in the garment district that might be able to sell me one (of many options).

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  4. I LOVE my 1954 Husqvarna Automatic 21E! I bought it on the Swedish equivalent of E-bay for the equivalent of 150 bucks! It's a dream to sew with. The topstitching is divine.
    That's my recommendation.

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    1. Oh, the Husquies are very beloved too. I will look into this one.

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  5. You're so hard on yourself! Buttonholes are tough; I've been an expert sewer for a long time but to be honest it's only been in the past 3-4 years that I've been satisfied with my buttonholes. In RTW production buttonholes (bound and regular) are made on Reece machines that cost over 10 grand new and that's all those machines do; there is no way home sewers can get even close to that quality on a home machine. So I have a vintage Singer 500 set up with a Singer buttonhole attachment and I use it only for making buttonholes. My regular machine isa vintage Willcox & Gibbs industrial. I like the speed and power of an industrial but I'm also lucky to have a sewing room so I have the space to keep an industrial and 3 other machines set up all the time (the W&G, the Singer, a Viking server and a Babylock coverstitch)

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    1. You see - that's the direction I'm leaning in - a vintage industrial machine. Any thoughts about other machines (besides Willcox & Gibbs) that are good? I didn't know that the bound buttonholes were done on industrial machines too - makes sense, of course, but I can't bear to look at things that seem homemade.

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  6. As I've mentioned, I sew on a 40 year old Bernina that still works just fine. Both my mother and sister, however, adore their Phaffs which are almost the same age. While I think my Bernina handles heavier fabrics better, I have to admit that their Phaffs do make nicer buttonholes.

    I'd echo the recommendation to bring your own fabric and spend some time with each machine before plunking down your dollars. Just like buying a vehicle, different features and layouts appeal to different buyers. You'll have enough sewing experience to have some definite preferences. I opted to save a few dollars by not choosing a machine that had a bunch of embroidery stitches that I knew I'd never use. I've never regretted it.

    And I'd recommend finding a dealer who offers an introductory session to help you get the most out of the machine. My dealer turned out to be a good resource when it came to personalizing my machine with add-on accessories. Sometimes the right needle or pressure foot can make all the difference. I also more or less follow a regular maintenance schedule to keep my machine in good running order.

    Perfect stitching without tension problems should be the baseline for any reputable machine. The best machine, however, is the one that is your trusted buddy and lets you concentrate on your sewing project instead of the machine.

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    1. You see - Bernina and Pfaff really do run the show :-) I think I'd do just about anything now for reliable buttonholes :-) (Although, the one thing my Singer seems to have done well is buttonholes. Maybe I should consider that covered.) I know I want a wide bed - lots of space between the plate and the side of the machine so that I can stitch on both sides of the needle. And, if I don't get a table model, a very good, narrow free arm. And an easy bobbin (metal) that tells me when it needs to be changed. And perfect tension regardless of the fabric I'm sewing. And the list goes on...

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  7. I have a Pfaff 7570 and it is the best! If something were to happen to this machine (I hope not; I take really good care of it & plan to have it for a very very long time), I would absolutely turn around & buy another one. It was quite expensive - going rate is about $1000, and yes, it's a used machine that's over 20 years old - but it was absolutely worth every penny. Of course, there are less expensive models that are great too. I just think the 7570 is the cream of the crop :) And it comes in cool 90s shades of mauve & green & blue haha.

    I know a lot of people love the drop-in bobbin for ease of use, but you really want to consider a side-loading bobbin if you want precise sewing. The drop-in bobbins just aren't as good as the side-loading. My machine actually has a light that blinks when my bobbin is running low, which is awesome.

    I also really love the built-in walking foot on my Pfaff, and the automatic tension is pretty freaking amazing. I can go from layers of denim to a thin layer of chiffon without changing any settings. And that walking foot is great for knits, thin/slippery fabrics... oh hell, I use it on everything haha.

    PFAFF.

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    1. The combo of this brand plus cute colours is very compelling :-) I am definitely going to research this one. I wonder if it's easy to find...

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  8. I just bought a 201K that I am going to convert to treadle - a vintage singer (I bought a 50s-early 60s model) . . .I love it and the stitch is as good as the Bernina - can be had for 300.00 or much less. . . Excellent stitch...

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    1. I don't understand treadle sewing (of course I've never tried it so I shouldn't assume it would be difficult...)

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