- Ascertaining the correct sleeve rotation (which we did in the last muslin) was the key to getting the sleeve to fit - in addition to making the length of the front sleeve longer.
- The addition of extra width on the back under seam (see the more translucent addition to the sleeve piece in the photo below) was unnecessary. We think it was a (hazy-moment) remnant of one of the muslin versions. So we removed it.
- At that point, with some amazingly cool, manual easing - and S showed me how to do this - we pin-basted the sleeves in perfectly. But the shoulder seemed somehow wan. Even when we added shoulder pads, there was a need for some stabilization at the tip of the shoulder.
- Which brings us to the next step wherein we removed all the pins and used the bias strip method of easing the sleeve.
- I didn't do a good job of it so, after S left, I had to rip it out. I'll redo it again on Saturday, when I complete the insertion. But with a bit of additional easing, we were able to pin-baste the sleeve in again, and then add the shoulder pad, and the combo of bias-strip sleeve head and shoulder pad gave the jacket some gorgeous lines.
Having said this, don't imagine the sleeve will fit well out of the box. Unless you are a very unique shape, it's likely you will benefit from adjusting it somewhat to maximize fit for your shape. Whether that's the case with every fitted jacket, I don't know. I'll have a chance to gain some more experience when I make the Claire Schaeffer tailored jacket (which S and I intend to do at the same time), after this. The mega-plus is that we will be able to assist each other with fitting. Furthermore the couple of tailoring projects I will have under my belt by then (a craft that S has not yet experienced) will be useful when it comes to interpreting how best to construct the Schaeffer jacket.
Mind you, one insanely complex project in its turn. :-) Here's to a good sleeve insertion, one jacket at a time.