At last, some photos of the tailoring I've done today on the jacket front:
You can see my buttonholes go up farther on the jacket than those on the original pattern design. That's because I don't want any fall at the bust. Since I worked so hard to ensure I've got enough room there, I don't want the lapel to feel or look over-sized. I bring enough volume to that area of the jacket already.
This photo looks a bit blurry here - it didn't on the camera?! I'm including it so that you can see a few things: The pin lines on the right side demarcate the 5/8 seam allowance. I moved the buttons horizontally - slightly closer to that seam line of the jacket than the pattern version instructs. Why? I just felt the pattern button placement is a bit too far from the centre line opening for my taste. I also wanted a bit more space in the chest area. (On that topic - can you see the topography of the princess seam?? The differential between the under bust and full bust is more than 7 inches - translating to the span of approximately 3 pattern sizes. I have some feelings about what underbust / full bust measurements will suit the unaltered mid-range sizes of this pattern so email if you want to have that discussion...) Finally, S and I measured the vertical line of the button placement closer to this line than the one the pattern suggests, so it seemed like a smart idea.
I have a whole diatribe about how A, B, C and D cup sizing - as pattern companies advise you which sloper bust they design for - is inaccurate, for smaller-framed people, anyway. I don't mean that the sloper isn't designed with a CHEST size in mind, but breasts, having volume, are different animals than under and over bust. Depending on your dimensions, you can save on required volume in a particular size by having a smaller under bust and over bust measurement. I've spoken of this before but, the more I learn the more convinced of this I am. Really, someone needs to start designing patterns for small-framed, relatively large-busted women. I can't think of one brand that does this. Colette: Suits tall, broad people. Sewaholic: Suits incredibly long-waisted pear shapes. This jacket pattern is designed for a wide-shouldered frame. Vogue comes closer to the sloper shape I'm talking about than any of the others, at least when it comes to frame size. Those who design for a woman who's large-busted because she's a large person, are not designing for me. And that's the whole premise of pattern grading, apparently. Thoughts and feelings are percolating, please stay tuned.
Back to the topic at hand: Yes, I have moved the buttons all over the map. Which means I had to reorient the lapel line. The photo below shows the altered fall of the lapel over the jacket front.
And below, you can see a) where I taped my lapel line with twill tape (it's catch stitched) vs the original line. The original one is the longer, wider line that happens to end at that yellow pin head. See how much wider it is at the base (the area that meets the full part of the bust). Of course, I could be totally wrong about this, but I feel that the narrower and smaller lapel will be more attractive on my small but boobish frame.
The final photo shows how the beginnings of lapel pad stitching are assisting the roll. Pretty, no?
For the hugeness of this project, I have to say how much I love tailoring. It's a beautiful merger of process and creativity.
I am still on the fence about the pockets, but I've got till I finish with this portion to decide whether I'll add them in. Please keep your feedback coming. I'd love to know what you think of this - and whether pockets seem like a good idea.