Saturday, April 14, 2012

Checking In...

Hey Everyone: My intention was to take photos of what I'm doing today, and upload them in this post. Alas, my child decided to borrow the camera and she neglected to turn it off. So there's no charge till later.

It's too bad cuz I wanted to take a few pics of my bound buttonholes right after completion - I mean before seaming the front to the side front (which raises the profile of everything as it turns the flat piece of fabric into the beginnings of a 3-dimensional garment). I can't wait hours for the batteries, so when finally I'm able to snap shots, you'll have to get with the buttonholes as part of a jacket-in-progress, with hair canvas atop the wrong sides. Happily, this won't impact the view of the right sides.

Here's where I'm at, mid-aft:
  • Bound buttonholes are done on the front piece. This was very time-consuming and rather difficult because the front piece is not exactly straight on either long edge - it moves out slightly nearing the lapel and the waist area curves in. Furthermore, I have my buttonholes 3 inches apart (not 2 inches apart, as the pattern instructs). This is because I've lengthened the jacket a bit and because I want my top button to sit just below the start of the lapel. Although I marked the straight of grain repeatedly, the fabric kept losing the line. It was also hard to see the stitches - and (stupidly) I used dark fusible interfacing atop the rectangle areas - so using pen to mark was useless. Chalk on a springy fabric that's getting a lot of play is suboptimal, to put it lightly. I ripped out the sewn rectangles of all 4 buttonholes a couple of times to ensure they were perfectly positioned (even though I spent hours drawing the markings carefully). Eventually I sewed from the right side (on top of the patches, which I could mark more easily). I thought of thread tracing but it filled me with such meh-ness that I spent 8 times as long doing it my own way. Whatevs. I'd say this whole process took about 5 hours. Really. How do I feel about the end product: It's entirely adequate. Given that these are the 3rd to 7th buttonholes I've ever made, I'm cool with the outcome. Are they perfect? Um, no. Are they good enough that I have to move on or I'll never have a freakin' jacket. Yup. I don't think you will notice the imperfections that I do. That's my story and I'm sticking with it.
  • I sewed the front and side fronts together, notched and clipped and I have to say the two pieces joined BEAUTIFULLY. I was super worried about this because of all the alterations worked on these pieces, which screwed with the marking lines. If you think about it, increasing bust curve changes the relative positioning of those notches. I'm sure it's all mathematical, but I couldn't figure out how. As I lengthened the pieces too - and the original waist isn't marked on the pattern piece - I kind of had to guess at everything. At one point S suggested I was potentially kind of screwed. (She said this good-naturedly and followed it up with: "The reason I think you'll be alright is cuz you have a good eye." She also rightly reminded me I should have been paying far more attention as I was making the alterations. On that account she is, of course, very right.) I have to say, I do kind of have a good eye. I seem to know where things go (which is why draping has worked well for me, I imagine). The next bra I make, I'm draping. And, though I said it would never happen, I'm starting to feel the urge to take on that challenge again. Flat patterns don't mean so much, but fabric in 3 dimensions I can get with. I think that's why I can guess everyone's bra and dress size fairly accurately, and why I can buy well-fitting clothes for other people when they're not around. I've always said that's my super-hero power. Who knew it would come in so handy.
  • I've marked the front interfacing (hair canvas) at the 5/8 lines, to avoid pad stitching into my seam allowances. I've also marked the roll line of the lapel. I've pinned the front interfacing to the fashion fabric, adjusted the size of the interfacing given the adjustments I've made to the pattern, and now I'm ready to start tailoring the jacket front. Wonder how long this will take. I do intend to stitch in front of the TV all evening. It'll be like knitting. 
Since I got the bound buttonholes cut, and realized all was not a disaster, I've been really enjoying myself. Imagine.

Here's today's question: I'm still wondering whether to make the diagonal welt pockets. Part of me would like to learn the skill. Part of me doesn't want the stress of another "cut into the front of the jacket front" moment - especially at this high-stakes juncture. Part of me doesn't know if the pockets are a bit twee (for me), given that the jacket is already quite vintage-y. Between the 3/4 sleeves, the peplum and the rounded collar, I wonder if the pockets may be a bit much on my frame. They are, of course, entirely optional. What do you suggest?

18 comments:

  1. Oh! I can't wait to see the final. My weigh in is that although I love pockets - especially welted - they may detract from the clear lines of the front of the jacket.

    Plus, I've started welts and they are tricky and hard to get right - but you have done bound buttonholes . . . which are a bit tricker (I think).

    IMHO I wouldn't put another design element on the front.

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    1. I'm thinking that also - and, in truth, I don't know if I like welt pockets all that much. They're very volumizing, yes?

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    2. Well, I love to keep tons of things in my jacket pockets from pens to lipstick (I shoot for the messy professor look) but if you don't use them - needlessly volumizing.

      Final thought - I tend to choose long jackets (or longer than this one) so I do worry it may not hit you in the right location, either - which for me would be worse. Your jacket is seemingly very tailored.

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    3. That's a smart consideration - thanks for mentioning it!

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  2. Ooh, so glad progress is happening! The bound buttonholes are quite a hurdle, aren't they?

    I'm torn on the pocket. On the one hand, I really like welt pockets, especially as compared to, say, patch pockets. On the other hand, all the things you and Pammie have mentioned. So, no help from me on that front---I leave it to your discretion. Except to say that I find no pockets at all in a jacket pretty problematic, at lest for myself.

    Good luck! (And curse those camera-kidnapping children!)

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    1. OMG, what a production. I really started feeling overwhelmed by placement - but eventually it all sorted itself out. I'm trying to keep my hateful rants to a minimum in the interests of not alienating gentle sewists.

      I would never use the pockets. they'd only be decorative.

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  3. I can't believe how much progress you've made! I agree about the welt pockets. I don't think there's any need for outside pockets on a suit jacket. Not enough to risk having less than perfect pockets.

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    1. Thanks Katy! I'm leaning in this direction...

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  4. Replies
    1. Oooh, honey, you appear to be in the minority! But you might bamboozle me yet...

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    2. YOU MUST HAVE A PLACE FOR WEAPONS!

      (and tiny bottles of alcohol.)

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    3. This made me spit my wine out for laughing! You see, bam-BOOZE-le. And, point taken.

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  5. I'm going to vote no pockets. First, because I hate pockets I won't use and I never use the pockets on blazer jackets. Secondly, because I HATE, hate, hate welt pockets. It isn't the difficulty of sewing them because I hate them on RTW too -- on jackets, pants, anything, doesn't matter. The interior pocket piece tends to get all wrinkled and hung up on everything from my butt to my boobs, and I spend too much time straightening them. Plus, the welt feels weird if I have anything in the pocket or pressing on it. HATE.

    So there, that's my totally unbiased opinion....

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    1. Seriously, tell me how you really feel :-) Good point about the pocket bunching up.

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  6. I am very impressed with your progress, and you did bound button holes! Now you are just showing off. I vote for no pockets. If you like having a place to put a pen or a phone or a key, put side seam pockets in the skirt. Easier, less potential bulk and compared to welt pockets relatively stress free. I am looking forward to seeing photos.

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    1. Thanks so much! I am TOTALLY showing off! I have to do a bit of that to counterbalance my hateful, pessimistic rants :-) I would never use the pockets, so I am feeling disinclined to make them.

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  7. Looks totally great. I love the smaller lapels and the way you conceptualize it - no fall over the actual bust - makes tons of sense to me. I am right on the line between petite and not (height-wise) and although smaller-busted than you, big enough, and I am always looking for jackets with smaller details on the front. I feel like it makes all the difference in getting a nice, tailored, clean look.

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    1. Thank you! I do think the smaller the details, the more one's natural shape takes centre stage.

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