It's too bad cuz I wanted to take a few pics of my bound buttonholes right after completion - I mean before seaming the front to the side front (which raises the profile of everything as it turns the flat piece of fabric into the beginnings of a 3-dimensional garment). I can't wait hours for the batteries, so when finally I'm able to snap shots, you'll have to get with the buttonholes as part of a jacket-in-progress, with hair canvas atop the wrong sides. Happily, this won't impact the view of the right sides.
Here's where I'm at, mid-aft:
- Bound buttonholes are done on the front piece. This was very time-consuming and rather difficult because the front piece is not exactly straight on either long edge - it moves out slightly nearing the lapel and the waist area curves in. Furthermore, I have my buttonholes 3 inches apart (not 2 inches apart, as the pattern instructs). This is because I've lengthened the jacket a bit and because I want my top button to sit just below the start of the lapel. Although I marked the straight of grain repeatedly, the fabric kept losing the line. It was also hard to see the stitches - and (stupidly) I used dark fusible interfacing atop the rectangle areas - so using pen to mark was useless. Chalk on a springy fabric that's getting a lot of play is suboptimal, to put it lightly. I ripped out the sewn rectangles of all 4 buttonholes a couple of times to ensure they were perfectly positioned (even though I spent hours drawing the markings carefully). Eventually I sewed from the right side (on top of the patches, which I could mark more easily). I thought of thread tracing but it filled me with such meh-ness that I spent 8 times as long doing it my own way. Whatevs. I'd say this whole process took about 5 hours. Really. How do I feel about the end product: It's entirely adequate. Given that these are the 3rd to 7th buttonholes I've ever made, I'm cool with the outcome. Are they perfect? Um, no. Are they good enough that I have to move on or I'll never have a freakin' jacket. Yup. I don't think you will notice the imperfections that I do. That's my story and I'm sticking with it.
- I sewed the front and side fronts together, notched and clipped and I have to say the two pieces joined BEAUTIFULLY. I was super worried about this because of all the alterations worked on these pieces, which screwed with the marking lines. If you think about it, increasing bust curve changes the relative positioning of those notches. I'm sure it's all mathematical, but I couldn't figure out how. As I lengthened the pieces too - and the original waist isn't marked on the pattern piece - I kind of had to guess at everything. At one point S suggested I was potentially kind of screwed. (She said this good-naturedly and followed it up with: "The reason I think you'll be alright is cuz you have a good eye." She also rightly reminded me I should have been paying far more attention as I was making the alterations. On that account she is, of course, very right.) I have to say, I do kind of have a good eye. I seem to know where things go (which is why draping has worked well for me, I imagine). The next bra I make, I'm draping. And, though I said it would never happen, I'm starting to feel the urge to take on that challenge again. Flat patterns don't mean so much, but fabric in 3 dimensions I can get with. I think that's why I can guess everyone's bra and dress size fairly accurately, and why I can buy well-fitting clothes for other people when they're not around. I've always said that's my super-hero power. Who knew it would come in so handy.
- I've marked the front interfacing (hair canvas) at the 5/8 lines, to avoid pad stitching into my seam allowances. I've also marked the roll line of the lapel. I've pinned the front interfacing to the fashion fabric, adjusted the size of the interfacing given the adjustments I've made to the pattern, and now I'm ready to start tailoring the jacket front. Wonder how long this will take. I do intend to stitch in front of the TV all evening. It'll be like knitting.
Here's today's question: I'm still wondering whether to make the diagonal welt pockets. Part of me would like to learn the skill. Part of me doesn't want the stress of another "cut into the front of the jacket front" moment - especially at this high-stakes juncture. Part of me doesn't know if the pockets are a bit twee (for me), given that the jacket is already quite vintage-y. Between the 3/4 sleeves, the peplum and the rounded collar, I wonder if the pockets may be a bit much on my frame. They are, of course, entirely optional. What do you suggest?