Thursday, December 29, 2011

Easy Does It

I'm about 3/4 through the latest iteration of the Clover pants and, of course, I have some feelings.
  • Why did I decide to turn the side zip into a back zip??
  • Oh yeah, the last insertion of the side zip was so horrifying, it seemed prudent when I started this.
  • Alas, there are all kinds of things one must consider when moving a zipper i.e. cutting 2 back facing and waistband pieces, not one and when, exactly, does one insert the invisible zipper?
  • I made a waist adjustment to this version - essentially I cut an inch off the previous version at the waist.
  • Then I discovered that the ease in the fabric I'm currently using is rather different than that of the previously-used denim.
  • Of course, having already finished the inner leg seams, my only recourse was to seriously diminish the seam allowances on the outer legs.
  • Which means there's practically no way I can faux fell the seams.
  • BTW, is there a secret to faux felling when one has already sewn up the tubes of the legs? Seam allowance issue aside, I don't know how I might be able to sew to the bottom of the leg with my machine, given bunching. Maybe I need a free-arm?
  • Next machine I get is going to have a) a free-arm and b) it will be mechanical.
  • This fabric has so much drape (I suspected this might be the case) that there will be pulling at the crotch.
  • It's not that the garment doesn't fit (though it sure as hell isn't loose in that area) but the fabric falls and extends so readily, that the confluence of the 3 tubes (waist, leg one and leg two) invites drag.
  • I'm so sick and tired of all the "OMG, there's pulling at the crotch" talk out there. We're human beings. When we move, the fabric reserves the right to drag.
  • Nonetheless, it makes me feel bad.
  • I'm not going to judge the process right now. This could all come back from the edge.
  • But if it doesn't, I don't know that I will give this pattern another go around.
  • Maybe that's the post-sewing haze talking.
  • Where's my wine?


  1. I find point form posts entertaining for some reason, maybe it's the free flowing thoughts, but I like them. I'm not the pant expert so I can't help much, but I see your point on worrying over every single line.

  2. I must say - you are one serious sewist. That is one of the reasons I like reading your blog so much. The where's my wine comment made me chuckle - sounds just like myself.

  3. To topstitch the second seam, turn the leg inside out and stitch up the inside of the tube. The fabric will bunch up framing the needle but you should be able to stitch the whole way in short bursts, rearranging often. Good luck! I will hope that these will turn out awesome once you forget a bit about the pain of construction...

    (if your seam is too narrow for the topstitching you want, what about binding it first? You can make the binding a bit loose to get some extra width)

  4. Sera: I like them too. Suits my style of thinking :-)

    Faye: What a compliment! Thank you. All I can say is I feel sorry for those sewists who don't drink :-)

    T: I wondered if that would work. It seemed dangerous to try. Now that you've indicated it can be done, maybe I'll give it a go.

    L: Happy New Year to you too. I don't quite know how we got here, but I'll take it!

  5. Ahh, we're in parallel stitching lands - I just finished up my second Clovers (jeans!) and up next is a Ruby Slip.

    I moved the invisible zip on my Clovers, too, since they always irritate my hip on trousers. But I moved mine to the center front and made it jeans-style.

    regarding the mock-fell - take a look at your average pair of jeans, and notice they're only topstitched on the inner leg. That's because they're sewing these in the SENSIBLE order of construction, none of this inserting one leg inside the other BS. Do this: sew the centre back seam. Sew the centre front seam (and fly front). Sew the inseam. Topstitch the inseam. Sew the outer leg seams. Attach waistband. Done! And it's freaking easy to topstitch the inner seam, too, because it's flat. (I'm not the genius here - Fashion Incubator is!) I sew all of my trousers this way, and it makes for a million less headaches.

  6. I read this and laughed at "where's my wine?"

    Too much complexity here for me, I would want to debug one element at at time, e.g., just move the zipper without changing any other parameters.

  7. Melissa: Hilarious! You know, my first pair of Clovers was in denim :-) I'm loving the slip (not that I know how it's all going to turn out), but there's really nothing as elegant as a bias cut skirt. Thanks so much for your feedback about sewing up pants. That makes SO much sense. Will totally do that next time.

    Susan: Wine is the great equalizer, yes? :-) As I've moved into new year austerity, I'm going to have to keep that little habit in check.