In the Navy

Meet my New Year's eve outfit:

Oooh, navy on navy. How do they look so different? These are the Clover pants and V8323.

This completely poseur-y shot was actually taken while I was adjusting my hair (all 1 inch of it). But it shows the lines of the outfit well, I think.

This equally poseur-y shot is for y'all cuz I think you all deserve a kiss!

This nice-girl photo is for my mother, cuz she loves shots like this...

I can't tell you how it thrills me to wear an outfit entirely of my own construction!

Now, you may know that I was taking some big time chances on the centre back (my alteration) invisible zipper holding up. I figured, in a worst case scenario it could be a fun "OMG, 2011 totally sucked" story: There I was, raising a glass of bubbly and my freakin' pants fell apart. At a party?!? I am SO ready for 2012...

I definitely need to slender out a smidge before wearing them again. But I do think they're going to be go-to pants when I lose a bit of volume in my derriere, post-Xmas.

The Good:

• I'm super pleased by the pants crotch length and depth, which I altered to suit my shape.
• I did really nice work on the facing at the back zip by morphing up the instructions for the Clovers and the Ginger skirt (which has a back zipper). I'm starting to get with that insertion technique Sarai espouses, which I didn't like at first. It really is freakin' clean, if you can get it to work.
• I finally realized that, when you alter the waistline of your pants, you will absolutely need to alter the waistband and facing: where they sit, where they seam, maybe even how they're curved (slightly). It's not rocket science but it is finicky and time-consuming.
• And let's give me a pat on the back for moving the zipper in the first place. Of course, it was probably harder than just figuring out how to get the zipper to insert nicely at the curved side seam, but you live, you learn.
  
• I think that the adjustments I made on the second version of V8323 really do improve the proportions on me. The neck is notably less chokey.
• I also like the peplum bestowed on the design by virtue of the drape of the fabric. It's nice and flowy.
• I LOVE both fabrics - colour (obvs, if I had to choose 1 colour to wear for the rest of my life it would easily be navy) and hand/drape of each. Both sewed very evenly.

The Less Good:

• I really don't love invisible zippers on stress points. I can see how they're a smarter zip for a side opening, than a centre-back opening.
• The pants are too tight right now, but it's not a critical issue. I can tell that they're tight where I've gained a bit of mass over the hols.
  

What I have observed about my wardrobe is that I wear my own handiwork most days - sometimes one piece, sometimes an entire outfit including scarf and coat?! Also, can we chat about the hand-made coat for a second? I cannot believe I made it. I must have been high on drugs to undertake hand tailoring when sewing for less than a year. And, sadly, I can't wrap my brain around ever wanting to do something so complex again. But look, it's NAVY!

What's your default sewing colour?

Easy Does It

I'm about 3/4 through the latest iteration of the Clover pants and, of course, I have some feelings.

• Why did I decide to turn the side zip into a back zip??
• Oh yeah, the last insertion of the side zip was so horrifying, it seemed prudent when I started this.
• Alas, there are all kinds of things one must consider when moving a zipper i.e. cutting 2 back facing and waistband pieces, not one and when, exactly, does one insert the invisible zipper?
• I made a waist adjustment to this version - essentially I cut an inch off the previous version at the waist.
• Then I discovered that the ease in the fabric I'm currently using is rather different than that of the previously-used denim.
• Of course, having already finished the inner leg seams, my only recourse was to seriously diminish the seam allowances on the outer legs.
• Which means there's practically no way I can faux fell the seams.
• BTW, is there a secret to faux felling when one has already sewn up the tubes of the legs? Seam allowance issue aside, I don't know how I might be able to sew to the bottom of the leg with my machine, given bunching. Maybe I need a free-arm?
• Next machine I get is going to have a) a free-arm and b) it will be mechanical.
• This fabric has so much drape (I suspected this might be the case) that there will be pulling at the crotch.
• It's not that the garment doesn't fit (though it sure as hell isn't loose in that area) but the fabric falls and extends so readily, that the confluence of the 3 tubes (waist, leg one and leg two) invites drag.
• I'm so sick and tired of all the "OMG, there's pulling at the crotch" talk out there. We're human beings. When we move, the fabric reserves the right to drag.
• Nonetheless, it makes me feel bad.
  
• I'm not going to judge the process right now. This could all come back from the edge.
• But if it doesn't, I don't know that I will give this pattern another go around.
• Maybe that's the post-sewing haze talking.
• Where's my wine?
  

FBA Continued...

Today has been an interesting day. I was derailed by all the things I meant to do by lots of things I imagined I might do someday - namely the construction of a croquis.

This sketch of oneself is becoming quite popular, all of a sudden, it would seem. In the last couple of weeks I've read no fewer than 5 accounts of how to, and why and what. In truth, my husband has been doing the heavy lifting on the project. He's already spent a few hours trying to create a vector diagram from a photo of me, using Inkscape. The reason our aim is to do this, rather than hand sketching a close-cropped picture, is that the end result will be scalable. (Also, it's kind of cool to create an image the likes of which one sees assembled on high-tech computers in action films; you know, like when they're trying to create a composite of the bad guy.)

Why spend the time and effort? Really, why not? At the end, I'll have a customized me-shaped sketch onto which I can draw fun designs that will suit my particular shape. Why should I consider my next outfit in relation to a figure that's 5'8", long-waisted and boob-free? I hope that this will be the next step on my journey of self-taught fashion design.

If the dress form fiasco hadn't already cured me of vanity, lord knows, this little project would achieve that objective in a flash. I have become so comfortable with body as an object, it's bizarre. More and more, I am pointedly aware of my every asymmetry, of convexity and concavity as it applies to me. Now I just find it all technically interesting. Sort of like doing an FBA...

Apropos of that, I've completed the Sherry-prescribed version of the Ruby Slip FBA and compared it to the one I attempted last week. Both versions add 1.5 inches to the original pattern bust dimensions. The one I "developed", for whatever reason, feels like the right one to cut first. (Fortunately I have enough fabric to try both versions, if required.)

Both FBA-altered paper pattern pieces are very similar in the side back piece. However, my version of the front piece is, intriguingly, wider all over, and specifically by 1 inch at the under bust vs. Sherry's. I didn't realize that till I compared the two of them today. So glad that Sherry reminds sew-alongers to increase the under bust dimensions an equivalent amount to any increase in bust width.

As such, I added 1 inch to either side of the front skirt and tapered to the waist notches. (I didn't defray the total 2-inch amount over the entire size of the skirt i.e. front and back, because I really do want the increase at the front.) The front bust piece is longer in Sherry's FBA version, and overall it is quite a bit slimmer. I have a full upper bust so I sense I need more width at the top of the piece. It just doesn't look like the Sherry-version, as it stands currently, is going to provide the volume I need, despite the addition of width at the side of the front piece where it meets the side back piece.

Man, if you don't sew - hell, if you don't adjust for a full bust - that paragraph must have been totally painful.

I really have no idea of how this is all going to play out. That's the fun and anxiety of sewing. This may be the best thing I've ever figured out on my own, or it might be a mere stepping stone to the next version. Potentially a frustrating one.

Nonetheless, I will keep on.

Today I've also cut the Ginger skirt, version 2 and pulled out the pattern and fabric to make another pair of Clovers. I'm so tempted to alter them into culottes, I just don't know if I'll be able to stop myself.

Any thoughts on croquis? Have you done one? Has anyone done an FBA on the Ruby Slip yet? Thoughts about Clovers or Gingers you haven't had a chance to chat about yet? Please let's talk!

Ms. Mojo Risin'

Quick post to tell you: I know what I'm sewing next. And next. And then after that.

My imagination, which seemed to vacate the sewing premises for a while, has returned in force.

If only I had time to indulge the impulse.

Will show fabrics anon but - with scarcely any time to blog, much less photo (I've been to 6 holiday gatherings since last Friday night), let me say that I had an hour on my hands in the garment district yesterday eve and I did some damage: silk charmeuse (navy), the most gorgeous square-patterned, modern-seeming lace (navy), some denim (navy), a very thin sweater knit with good drape (navy) (yes, I do see the theme)... Then I got some pink lace (not as special as the blue but well matched to the poly crepe I also purchased). I got some pink petersham at Mokuba - talk about selling the farm for dainties. Note: Mokuba has some stretch and woven faux fur in a number of great colours/widths/styles that are so lovely they're almost turning me to the fake side. But not quite. For 105.00 a metre, you too can own some of the wider stuff - and by wider I mean 12 inches (maybe). Finally, I bought a yard of really nice t shirt material in grey. Oh, and zippers and thread.

In brief:

• Gonna use the lace / silky combos to make a pink and then navy slip with Sherry's great pattern. Good news, Ladies, she's going to do an FBA tutorial!
• Gonna use the navy thin knit to make another version of this that drapes better and actually fits in the neck. It's a precursor to using Mardel's cashmere. I need to perfect things first.
• Gonna use the denim to make another pair of Clovers that, hopefully, fit a bit snugger. I might even try to use the pink petersham to make the waist facing, if I can figure it out.
  
• The grey will be for a T shirt for Scott, using the bespoke pattern I made him for his birthday.

I'm not in a rush. I have the whole holiday season to work on these. And to tell you / show you more about them. Please stay tuned.

This is Pants

This post is a rant.

It doesn't come with photos. It's not happy. It likely will not predispose you to take up sewing.

Nonetheless, when you have the kind of creative day that pushes up challenge after challenge - who are we kidding, they're legitimate problems once you have 10 of them, and each is predicated on the last - putting on a sweet face isn't really authentic.

I finished the Clover trousers and, right now, I'm not loving them. For a simple pair of pants (fitting was more or less done with this muslin), they sure did take me fucking forever. Like 16 hours.

Let's outline the issues:

• I either read the pockets instructions wrong (I can't bear to look at that pattern again for a while, so I can't confirm it right now), or they're unusually inserted, leaving an (interior facing) exposed raw edge. I managed to finish and invert them to get a clean finish, but only after having to chop half of them off. (Note: I don't need the pockets so it's not a fitting problem. In fact, I don't like front facing pockets right at my stomach, even if they are discreet, so I'm likely never going to make them in these pants again.) Furthermore, don't use Bemberg lining. It frays like a bitch and the fibres stick to everything. That pissed me off all day.
• I like inserting invisible zippers. Well, I like inserting them better than any other kind of closures, which means they're tolerable. But side zippers are much more finicky, apparently (this being my first ever) than back zippers. The hip curve makes them tricky to align, not to mention that they take wear differently. Given that I had to be utterly certain to get the sides to line up, it took a LONG time. 90 minutes later, I had a lovely finished product that proceeded to fall apart (at the part where the waistband unit meets the pants top) as I pulled it up. The zipper is sticky there, given the fabric bulk and join. Mercifully, the follow up zipper only took 20 minutes to insert. As I'd serged the outer seam leg of the pants (remember my last experience of that?), I had no room for error. I just decided to stop over-thinking and it went in pretty well. Also, I used tape to hold the zipper down. Why don't I do that all the time?? Basting an invisible zipper is ridiculous.
• I forgot to serge the ankle hems before assembly. I don't think the pattern instructs it, and I followed the pattern exactly, to the best of my ability, which meant I had a miserable time trying to do it once everything was put together. It's pretty nasty looking.
• But the piece de resistance of stupidity was when I inserted the zip on the left side (the opposite of the one stipulated in the pattern). That meant I had to invert all the instructions and rip apart already finished (according to pattern instructions) waist facing and waistband units. Note to self: Don't finish things till you've checked to see if you've mixed up left and right (a semi-regular occurrence). I was lulled into a false sense of security because the instructions are so clear and well presented. I know, I'm blaming clear instructions for my errors. How rude is that?
• I don't like facing. There, I've said it. If you're even vaguely off, the facing unit and the waistband unit don't align perfectly at the already inserted zip, which makes the finishing process very challenging.
• Furthermore, I think the waist finishing - while really clever and, I'm sure, beautiful if you are working with an amenable fabric, machine and a comfort level with zipper feet / aren't sewing (somewhat blind) and dangerously close to zippers that have already fucked up once - is difficult to pull off. I know the next time I try this pattern - and there will be a next time after the sew along ends (once I've had some time and a chance to see how Sarai tackles the waistband) - it will be easier as I will have seen everything twice before.
• This pattern is very well conceived, explained, and is not conceptually difficult. It does take rather a lot of dexterity for a beginner pattern. But pls., peeps. I'm dextrous and I'm not a beginner!

OK, the reason I can even imagine trying this again, at this sensitive juncture, is that I am very impressed by many of its features which I've mentioned here and elsewhere. But, more to the point, I have to say I am blown away by how relatively easy it is to fit. OK, I have done a lot of pants fitting so I have some pre-existing measurements and experience at my access. But these pants are so simple, at their core, that they don't derail you from fit with other details. The fact that they're made with stretch, is fit-forgiving. They grade beautifully. And, bonus from my perspective - but potentially challenging for longer-waisted and taller women (isn't that 70% of the world's population?) - they are not long from the base of the crotch to the waist.

Sarai, in one of her posts, advises participants not to overfit. I think that's really smart advice. The pants don't need it. (Quite honestly, I think that an overfitted garment is as bad as one that hasn't been adjusted at all. And the danger of making a muslin or two, much like that of using Botox, is that sometimes we don't know when to stop.)

The other reason for trying again is that, despite everything, I have a really gorgeous finished product. The pants are totally flattering. If not slimming, and I suspect they are, they totally make the most of one's assets with their streamlined design.

Over and out.

Poly Crafting

I've had a productive weekend so far:

1. Started the Tubey Sweater. I've changed up the instructions to do the following:

• Alter the long bell sleeves into fitted 3/4 sleeves
• Leave off the provisional cast on at one shoulder, choosing instead to knit the whole shrug in one pass, from sleeve hem to sleeve hem. The two sleeves will be knitted in the round using magic loop. The back, upper body piece between them will be knitted with the same circular needles, but flat. Man, this knitting-speak is gobbledygook.
  
• I've got to shorten the upper back (underarm seam to under arm seam) because my dimensions are smaller than the Small size I'm knitting. In fact, I think they may be smaller than the XS. (I tell you - my frame is narrow.)
  
• Why don't I just make the whole sweater proportionately smaller? Cuz the tube body (knit stretchily in rib stitch) is the part of the sweater that contains the bust, and I am definitely in need of the pattern's increased dimensions for that.
• The challenge will be to pick up stitches for the small (the size I am notionally making) - where the shoulder and upper bust shrug piece (from which I'll be picking those stitches up) will not be a pattern-drafted "size small". Short story, is I'm going to have to do some fancy footwork there too - but I have a plan.
• As I've mentioned in other social media venues, my goal here is to obtain a great fit.
• This sweater, if knit without careful consideration for sizing - esp. given my body shape - would likely be a bust (ha!). I've got gauge but I'm not being cocky. I've been there before and had a bad outcome. However, with that sweater (the ill-fated Wispy), there were other issues going on.

2. I'm also knitting my third version of the Cable Keyhole Scarf. You know I'm making this scarf for everyone as Xmas gifts. Each one I've knit in different yarn on size 7 needles. Scarves don't really require strict adherence to gauge, thank the knitting goddess, but I'm intrigued to see how they all look and feel somewhat unique.

3. I spent a lot of the afternoon (oh, 2 hrs or so) altering, tracing and cutting out the paper pattern for the Clover pants. Why am I pattern adjusting, before making a muslin to see how the original pattern actually fits my body? Well, I've learned that certain of my alterations are somewhat standard, pattern notwithstanding. This doesn't mean my altered pattern will produce a perfectly fitting muslin. I suppose I could create a whole new set of fit challenges by this theory. But, since I'm willing to work the muslin till I get the fit I'm looking for, I feel there's no real harm in starting from my formerly successful vantage point.

• My crotch length is short in relation to most patterns - much as my waist length is. I have removed an inch from below dart markings (and above the crotch seams). This pattern doesn't provide a shorten line so I had to wing it. I hope I did the right adjustment in the right spot.
• Furthermore my crotch depth has it's own, interesting proportions, which seem to transfer from 1 pants style to another, quite accurately.
• From (admittedly minimal) past experience of Colette Patterns, I am assuming that this pattern will fit on the roomy side. Given that I prefer 3/8 seams to 5/8 seams, my finished products tend to grow a bit that way also. Having said that, I have slightly less difference between my hips and waist measurements, than the pattern measurements. I graded the size 6 to an 8 at the waist. Interestingly, my crotch depth shape adjustments (see above) accord somewhat with the size 8 also. I'm working under the premise that I'm a 6 in the legs and hips but an 8 in the waist and crotch due to the very special shape of my lower abdomen.
• I find it strange to make changes to something I've only ever seen in 2 dimensions. I guess this is the path of learning how to three-dimensionally "read" flat pieces of paper. At least, at this point, I have an awareness of how the pattern pieces produce the 3 tubes that create the pants (2 legs and torso) - and of how they stitch together. But it's all such a guessing game.

Given my 2 latest projects, I can see that I'm at a new juncture in my production of garments. I really want to understand fit - so much so that I'm not afraid to jump right in, practical knowledge or skill notwithstanding. You can only get from nothing to something by starting, right? That's the way I'm approaching this phase. And by embracing math. If you knew me in high school, you'll know how shocking that is.

Totally off topic update: If you're looking for some utterly awesome, very reasonably priced, vintage cashmere, run to this post. And if you buy the flower cardigan, I want to hear about it!

Rolling in Clover

Just a quick post to tell you about the loot that arrived by post for me today (Peeps, when it rains, it pours :-) Speaking of which, I bought a camel-coloured, short rain cape a few days ago, on sale, at Banana Republic - I tried to find a photo but (of course, it being big box) I couldn't... It may be part of that Mad Men line. It's definitely retro. And, though I rarely go into BR, I found it by accident about a month ago and waited patiently for it to go on sale for half price! It's got an internal belt, the only cape style that works on me - but man, it works well. Sidebar out.

Getting back to the loot that arrived... have a look at two books that my knitting enabler suggested for me:

Knitting it Old School by Stitchy McYarnpants (HILARIOUS author name)

Fitted Knits by Stefanie Japel (the woman who does the excellent Craftsy course)

Then there's the Clover Pants pattern:

I know, this is sewing gold! And I've already read through the instructions, which are outrageously clear. I do think it's excellently presented in all ways. Of course, I haven't made them yet so I can't speak to the finished product, but I am so impressed by Colette Patterns and by Sewaholic Patterns. These women-crafter-owned companies design great garments and present them in a way that's so relevant.

Finally, I'll end with a shot of a sweater that's got me excited! I was alerted to it by my other knitting enabler:

This is the When Sampson Met Lila pattern and it's free!

C'mon, is that not SO me?! Alas, I've already got another sweater and 6 scarves lined up first. But next time I buy yarn, it's for this baby.