Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Serging Ahead

Here's Vogue 8634, the version C (tunic) length with the version B (3/4) sleeve:

Sorry for the fuzzy shot... Notice how I removed the empire horizontal seam. Such an easy pattern alteration and it improves the line of this so much!

This is probably the fastest thing I've ever sewn - 3 hours(ish), minus the stitch ripping of the hem. It was 4 seams, hem and sleeve hems. Next time, I'm simply going to hem serge the sleeves as well as the bottom and call it a day.

I've overexposed the shots to try to show detail. Please know that the sweater fabric (some mystery synthetic that looks just like wool) is actually lovely. You know how I am about texture. I cannot stand "screechy" feeling stuff.

I note in the photos that the waist looks really straight but, in fact, it sucks right against one's curves in a flattering way. It has an excellent length for a short-waisted person of 5'3" - in no way too long but still bum-covering. If you are long of torso or tall, you may want to consider adding some length. Looks excellent with skinnies and leggings.

As I mentioned in my last post, this is a deceptively large fit. The pattern sizing suggests that a small is a big 4 pattern close-fitting 8-10 (i.e. 32ish" bust). I can assure you, negative ease notwithstanding, the small fits an upper bust i.e. chest measurement of 33 just fine. My full bust measurement is 36 - 37" and the small works with no problem.

Really, you should totally make this. Especially if you have a serger!


  1. Oh, now I think I will have to buy this pattern. The one thing I didn't like about it when I first saw the envelope picture, was that horizontal empire seam. It hadn't even occurred to me to omit that seam.

    I have been looking for something to wear over skinny jeans and I think this would probably be perfect. Thanks for the review and the tips.

  2. I just found your blog by chance and I'm just absolutely amazed! You make beautiful clothes! Definitely a must follow

  3. I want to order one. Um, when are you going to start taking orders!!:-)

  4. You probably explained this in an earlier post but I am curious why you like the serger more than a regular sewing machine?

  5. Ms. M: On Pattern Review, practically everyone has removed it - it's so much better that way!

    Cherry Blossom Girl: Thank you so much for your lovely comment. Happily, you are already well-known by me!

    Bel: I should start taking orders because I, apparently, have a psychological problem that prevents me from stopping sewing. Like ever. How will I have space for everything. In truth, I'd happily make you one of these but I'm not quite confident enough. Of course, if I just gifted it to you, you couldn't complain about the workmanship. Let's talk. :-)

    Susan: I don't think I've actually discussed that and it might be the subject of a post. In short, sergers can't do everything that sewing machines can do (or vice versa). One does need a machine - because a lot of the work of a machine is fine (or detail oriented). The serger, while much faster, is blunter. It removes fabric as it cuts (though that cutting feature can be disabled). On the plus side it creates a very secure and finished seam (albeit, a finished look some hard core sewists do not like).

    Sergers are particularly excellent for knits - which are my fave fabrics - because of the type of finishing and seam work they do. Many knit patterns can be done entirely on a serger, because they don't have button holes or darts etc.

    My particular serger is the bestest because it is of such high quality. It controls tension automatically - I can put an inch of fabric easily through it followed, with no adjustments, by some chiffon. That's very unusual. Also, it has a differential feed feature (for gathering) and it threads like a dream.

  6. I am intrigued by how you describe the serger and look forward to a post on it if you decide to write one.

  7. Like Cherry Blossum Girl, I also just happened upon your blog, and I agree with her ... you make beautiful clothes. I love this top. And a great idea to remove the horizontal seam. That's the neat thing about PR ... being given "permission" to change patterns. Great top.

  8. Susan: I will post on it - give me some time to come up with something good!

    Ania: Thank you so much! I think it's much chicer without the seam. I do love it when sites like PR and bloggers give me the confidence to come up with my own work-arounds.

  9. Thanks M! I think this would look great on you. But you would need to make it a bit longer I think.