Serging Ahead

Here's Vogue 8634, the version C (tunic) length with the version B (3/4) sleeve:

Sorry for the fuzzy shot... Notice how I removed the empire horizontal seam. Such an easy pattern alteration and it improves the line of this so much!

This is probably the fastest thing I've ever sewn - 3 hours(ish), minus the stitch ripping of the hem. It was 4 seams, hem and sleeve hems. Next time, I'm simply going to hem serge the sleeves as well as the bottom and call it a day.

I've overexposed the shots to try to show detail. Please know that the sweater fabric (some mystery synthetic that looks just like wool) is actually lovely. You know how I am about texture. I cannot stand "screechy" feeling stuff.

I note in the photos that the waist looks really straight but, in fact, it sucks right against one's curves in a flattering way. It has an excellent length for a short-waisted person of 5'3" - in no way too long but still bum-covering. If you are long of torso or tall, you may want to consider adding some length. Looks excellent with skinnies and leggings.

As I mentioned in my last post, this is a deceptively large fit. The pattern sizing suggests that a small is a big 4 pattern close-fitting 8-10 (i.e. 32ish" bust). I can assure you, negative ease notwithstanding, the small fits an upper bust i.e. chest measurement of 33 just fine. My full bust measurement is 36 - 37" and the small works with no problem.

Really, you should totally make this. Especially if you have a serger!

More is More

Some people finish their fancy coats and go out for a weekend's worth of restaurant meals to show 'em off. I, on the other hand, scored an extra long weekend and so far I've spent it in the sewing room.

I know, I'm insane.

But let me tell you what I've been making! (Gonna post photos really soon. I swear. Just need daylight...)

First off, I decided to merge 2 versions of Vogue 8364:

I used the 3/4 sleeve from version B (centre) and the tunic length of version C (right). And I got rid of that stupid seam under the boobs, which doesn't do anything for the look of the garment, other than fussy it up.

I used a slate grey (with undertones of lavender) two-way sweater knit I found at FabricLand a while ago. Let me tell you, it was not cheap. I got it on sale, if I remember correctly, and it was still in the neighbourhood of $15.00 yard.

On the plus side, I made a freakin' tunic for $25.00! This pattern fits large. I made the small and it was more than big enough. The envelope sizing (incorrectly) suggests that the fit is smaller...

I decided to use my serger for the whole job, hems excepted. For starters, from start to finish (including buying fabric, re-tracing pattern, sewing) this thing took 3 hours. It was a delicious dream. I should disclose that I needed to spend an extra hour ripping out the hem (oy, on knit, what a nightmare) because it sucked. After the ripping, I serged the hem and now it looks so chic. I don't think I'll ever hem a sweater knit again. Until I get my coverstitch machine (mwahahahaha).

I also lived seriously on the edge (get it?!) and, on realizing that the back where it meets the cowl was drooping due to extra fabric, I just opted to serge it off. Free-style. And it worked.

I've already worn it out two days in a row and I utterly love it.

What I'm making right now is the Colette Pattern Sencha blouse which, it appears, every home sewist in the land has taken a shot at. Remember, I had to wait months for it to come back into stock before snagging it just before I started the coat? (What? You can't remember anything else I ever sewed - or did - before the coat? That's fair.)

I bought 2 fabrics with which to make it (there are 3 styles, I'm starting with version 3, the keyhole front). Each was on sale for a reasonable $7.00/yd.

The fabric I'm using first is a traditional cream/black leopard print, textured woven poly. It sounds awful but the drape and hand are excellent. And it's machine washable!! I'm going to do the back version 1 (the easiest back, to match the most challenging front), and I'll test out my new Snap Setter. Here's hoping it works because I loathe button-hole making.

The other fabric feels and looks like a matte silk. It, too, is a synthetic and machine washable. It's much slippier than the leopard because it has no surface texture and it's very drapey slim. It's in a rich merlot - just an awesome shade. I intend to make front version 2 with this fabric.

The pattern is well-designed - as everyone says. The instructions are quite clear and - I know this will sound strange coming from me - very enjoyable to follow. I did switch around (per everyone's reviews) the steps to (0.25 inch) machine hem the sleeves and the stitching of the side seams. It's easier that way.

I am loving the hand stitching involved. Yes, you did read that correctly, I am such a convert. The line of the blouse (which I would only make in something with good, slinky, woven drape) is gorgeous.

I'm making the 8 and (hmmm, broken record anyone?), I fear it may be too big - even in the chest! I'm technically a 6 in Colette Patterns, but I didn't feel the need to full-bust-adjust this (Sarai makes patterns for women with fulsome breasts) and I wanted to be sure it would fit.

It's one of those tops the final fit of which is totally unknowable till the last minute (when the back closures go in). I'm hoping it won't be too big, but if it is, no worries, I will simply make it in the 6 next time.