Silky Goodness

I'm going to call this one a qualified success:





The Good:

• Silk is not that slippery. Really. Unless you're expecting cotton. I mean, rayon jersey and many synthetics have been more challenging.
  
• The serger deals with it remarkably well.
• It feels fantastic.
• My workmanship, with the exception of one glaring error, and a bit of snap misalignment, is surprisingly strong. I figured out, by working it through, how to self-fabric interface the plackets and the neck facing and I think I did it neatly.
  

The Bad:

• The silk drapes very differently than a) a synthetic or b) than I thought it would. It fits, but I do find it strangely snug in weird places during movement. Maybe my pattern edits worked on a stronger, synthetic fabric but, given the delicateness of the silk, I suspect more ease would make it drape more elegantly. I'm going to keep the second set of tucks on the back (a pattern adjustment I came up with) but narrow them on my next go. I will also add the under arm ease back in. I wonder if the other (black and white, slightly sturdier) silk will have more natural ease.

• Errors are very difficult to fix on charmeuse. You have to weigh the benefits of trying again against the potential for destroying the fabric.
  

• Invisible catch stitching is a bit challenging. And the silk doesn't hold the stitches as firmly as a synthetic.

• The snaps are too heavy for such a delicate fabric and they drag it down.

• The neck facing to neckline, which was difficult on both other Senchas, IMO, was really challenging in silk. I will definitely have to work on that technique because I stretched things slightly out of shape. And I still ended up having to topstitch in order to keep the facing in place.
  

The Ugly:

• I did something wrong when I attached the placket interfacing to the facing, at the top where it meets the neck. As a result, I botched the back of the top - not so badly that you'd notice it if I had long hair. Or even that you'd notice it if I didn't point it out (it just looks off, but it's "evenly off"). I deliberately didn't photo it because, quite honestly, I intend to wear this blouse and I don't want to give that error any more credibility that it deserves. Other than this, I did very neat work and the garment feels like a dream.

The Verdict:

Don't be afraid of silk. Not charmeuse, anyway. If you can find some at a reasonable price - I'd say anything under $20.00 a yard, take the chance and use it on a Sencha. Not counting the pattern cost, this top cost me 25 bucks all in. At a store I might have spent 5 times that amount.

Whenever you sew, you either succeed in producing a wearable garment, or you don't. Shouldn't you make that potential success as glorious as it can be? You'll quickly forget the anxiety of sewing with top notch fabric. And every time you wear it you'll remember how much you love what you sew.

Sewing with Silk

As you know, I've just embarked on a new sewing experience - the Sencha blouse, made in silk. I'm sewing with charmeuse, that woven drapey silk with beautiful hand, quite a bit of bias stretch and matte on one side / satin on the other. Apparently, it's not the easiest thing to work with.

It's my first time sewing with this fabric (actually, I haven't started the sewing part yet) but, already, I have some thoughts and feelings to share:

• Sometimes, when everyone warns that a fabric is an absolute bitch, you might find it's not quite as horrible as you'd imagine. It's called "experiential tempering" peeps, and in this circumstance, I'm all for it. It's the pleasant metaphoric flip side of the movie everyone raves about that turns out to be totally overrated by the time you get to see it.

• Having said this, I don't want to mislead you; it's a slippery mofo, so proceed with caution. Rotary cutting on a mat, with weights to stabilize the fabric, is the way to go. Pins and scissors can be tricky.

• While I was freaked to try this, Claire Schaeffer, in her awesome tome the Fabric Sewing Guide, advises that one should steam press the silk before cutting (if one intends to dry clean it going forward), to shrink and prepare it. Believe it or not, it works. I first steamed (on the wrong side), then pressed (I didn't even use a pressing cloth for some of it), and the fabric shrank considerably, but didn't mar in any way. I even got some water drops on the silk. My usually flawless iron somehow managed to leak on the most delicate of fabrics?!, but somehow the water didn't stain. Phew. I do intend to use a pressing cloth as I sew. BTW, Scott and I once spent 4 hours going through this sewing guide when totally inebriated and he found it fascinating. A guy who doesn't even sew. If you sew, you are crazy not to own this book.
  

• I suggest that the matte side of the fabric is better for those large of chest. It's less reflective.

• The way I learned the awful truth that FabricLand at Yonge and Bloor (the only central TO location) is closing, is that I had to go there today to purchase sharps. 60s are the best gauge for delicate silk. Special sharp pins are also wise. In truth, it's not rocket science. Just buy the correct materials and you will vastly improve your likelihood of success. I mean, you really don't want unnecessary holes in your charmeuse.

• I still don't know, exactly, how the placket and neck facing, self-fabric interfacing is going to work. I've thought it out in depth but you never know how it goes till it's gone. Keep your fingers crossed for me.

• I'm making view 1 this time (formerly I have made view 3, with the keyhole). I figure, working with such a tricky fabric, it would be best to make the construction as simple as possible. I only hope it looks good.
  

Putting My Money Where My Mouth Is

Remember how I said I should make a couple more Senchas and a pair of my TNT pants, though not in denim (BTW, I actually rotate 3 of those TNTs in denim, not 2 - as I originally stated in that post. I forgot about one pair, proving the point that I need to make something that maintains the line but doesn't look more or less the same as the others).

Well, a couple of days ago I found this silk in the garment district:

$15.00 a yard - very reasonable for silk of its quality, IMO

It will do the Sencha justice though, having never sewn with silk, I'm understandably apprehensive. (Note: for those of you asking about my pin tuck adjustment to remove fullness from the waist area of the Sencha, here's the post outlining my process.)

Just thought of a potential challenge (inasmuch as I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel on this project, simply to gussy up the fabric choices): In the past I have used fusible interfacing to stabilize the button facing. Can't do that here. I guess I'm going to have to underline the facing for more stability. Anyone have any idea of what fabric to use - fashion fabric, organza? (or how to do sew it up with a finished edge)? I'm heading over to Tasia's underlining post, but I don't know if I can use it to help me with this little piece of a larger garment.

I also bought a beautiful silk in taupe (matte one side, satin on the other) but I can't find the photo I just took of it?! Oh well, you'll have to enjoy this one twice as much!

I've had the proposed pants fabric in my stash since I purchased it from my fab RTW designer and store-owner acquaintance (it was overage). It's got the tiniest bit of stretch and it drapes beautifully:

So, there you go. I'm about to take the beautiful/fancy-fabric plunge with tested designs. OMG, why don't you do this too?! Let's do fancy fabric sewing together! Choose a pattern you love and make it again in the nicest fabric you can afford / bring yourself to cut up. Let me know if you're game and then I want to hear all about it!

Sencha, Take Two

The black currant coloured, faux-silk Sencha blouse is complete. I made a second version 3 (on the front) with my own modified back (7 snaps).

I will post photos soon (it was too dark to snap them this evening), but right now I'll just share my thoughts.

I decided not to recut to the size 6 - I stuck with an 8 but I modified it as such:

• I repositioned and added a pin tuck on each side of the back. Now there are 2 back tucks on each side of the centre back, evenly spaced from the side seams. Of course, the back closures (snaps or buttons) are angled to the right side of centre, so I wonder if it looks strange. I'm not too concerned. This alteration happily removed about .75" on each side of the back, or 1.5" overall.
• I took a bit of fullness out of the side seams under the arm. I didn't get mathematical about it - I just eyeballed the amount and cut it off the pattern - and it worked out fine.

What I realized, after wearing the leopard-print version last week, is that the bust and shoulders fit well. It was the back and underarm that were too big. I didn't want to re-trace and cut a size 6 if, in fact, that was going to diminish the full bust ease, which worked well.

Gotta say, I am very excited to make this sort of alteration. It's so thrilling to me that I have the confidence to give it a go. Not so long ago I would have run for the hills at the thought of deviating from a pattern.

Many sewing-blogger friends are directly responsible for helping me to get to this stage. I love it when I read a post that enthusiastically proclaims, it's just sewing. Do what you want. Make it up. What's the worst that can happen?? That attitude underpins creativity.

The Sencha Blouse

Today it is so utterly gloomy and fall-like that there's barely any light to take photos with. Well, at this hour it's completely dark, but when I took these it was all flash, all the time.

I am not one of those people who revels in the grey, damp. I don't find it moody, so much as suicide-inducing. I'll take sun any day of the week - every day. I don't much care if it's cold as fuck, but rain and darkness just drives me insane.

Fortunately, I've had the Sencha blouse project to level me out:


As you know I did front version 3 (keyhole neck), and my initial idea was to make the back in version 1 (2 snaps and the rest hand sewn).

When I got started on the snaps, I was so thrilled with them that I decided the entire back would have to get snapped.



The Snap Setter is really a useful tool - and very affordable / storable. I got some fantastic customer service when I called one day to ask about a thousand questions including, does this thing actually work or is it a total gimmick? Look, the Canadian shipping fee was not negligible (what else is new) and I didn't want to waste my time.

In the past, I bought another version of a snap stamper, which I promptly returned because it was useless... Is the Snap Setter time consuming? Well, no more so than sewing button holes! And you get to use a hammer...

The Sencha pattern is a joy to sew. I don't know that I'd call it Beginner, to be honest, though, when you know nothing - as I remember from very recently - everything is equally impossible. I did interface the centre back, and I'm glad, cuz even those little sz 16 snaps are heavy when you do 7 of them.

Look at these gorgeous tucks:

Isn't the facing pretty?? (I mean, how often do you find me showing you the garment interior for kicks??)

And here's a shot of the interior sleeve:

The exterior hemming was done by hand, fyi, so it's undetectable from the right side of the garment.

The bad news is that this thing is too big. Not outrageously too big - I mean, I'll wear it soon and I intend to pair it with this:

Seriously, how handmade-cute will that outfit be?

I'm going to make the next version in a size 6. Note to those who intend to sew this - the finished product fits roomily. Also - and it would be so good if I paid attention to detail at the pivotal moments - there's a useful table on the pattern cover that actually tells you the dimensions of the finished garment. Oh well, you live, you learn.

Nonetheless, I'm thrilled with this top. It is so flattering on a woman with breasts - and so relatively easy (esp. given that it's made in a woven) because most large-breasted women will not need to do a full bust adjustment. I actually think it would be harder to work this without big tits than with - and how often does that happen (we who know about clothing and fit and why models are flat as a board)??

Anyhow, that's my review. Whatcha think??

More is More

Some people finish their fancy coats and go out for a weekend's worth of restaurant meals to show 'em off. I, on the other hand, scored an extra long weekend and so far I've spent it in the sewing room.

I know, I'm insane.

But let me tell you what I've been making! (Gonna post photos really soon. I swear. Just need daylight...)

First off, I decided to merge 2 versions of Vogue 8364:

I used the 3/4 sleeve from version B (centre) and the tunic length of version C (right). And I got rid of that stupid seam under the boobs, which doesn't do anything for the look of the garment, other than fussy it up.

I used a slate grey (with undertones of lavender) two-way sweater knit I found at FabricLand a while ago. Let me tell you, it was not cheap. I got it on sale, if I remember correctly, and it was still in the neighbourhood of $15.00 yard.

On the plus side, I made a freakin' tunic for $25.00! This pattern fits large. I made the small and it was more than big enough. The envelope sizing (incorrectly) suggests that the fit is smaller...

I decided to use my serger for the whole job, hems excepted. For starters, from start to finish (including buying fabric, re-tracing pattern, sewing) this thing took 3 hours. It was a delicious dream. I should disclose that I needed to spend an extra hour ripping out the hem (oy, on knit, what a nightmare) because it sucked. After the ripping, I serged the hem and now it looks so chic. I don't think I'll ever hem a sweater knit again. Until I get my coverstitch machine (mwahahahaha).

I also lived seriously on the edge (get it?!) and, on realizing that the back where it meets the cowl was drooping due to extra fabric, I just opted to serge it off. Free-style. And it worked.

I've already worn it out two days in a row and I utterly love it.

What I'm making right now is the Colette Pattern Sencha blouse which, it appears, every home sewist in the land has taken a shot at. Remember, I had to wait months for it to come back into stock before snagging it just before I started the coat? (What? You can't remember anything else I ever sewed - or did - before the coat? That's fair.)

I bought 2 fabrics with which to make it (there are 3 styles, I'm starting with version 3, the keyhole front). Each was on sale for a reasonable $7.00/yd.

The fabric I'm using first is a traditional cream/black leopard print, textured woven poly. It sounds awful but the drape and hand are excellent. And it's machine washable!! I'm going to do the back version 1 (the easiest back, to match the most challenging front), and I'll test out my new Snap Setter. Here's hoping it works because I loathe button-hole making.

The other fabric feels and looks like a matte silk. It, too, is a synthetic and machine washable. It's much slippier than the leopard because it has no surface texture and it's very drapey slim. It's in a rich merlot - just an awesome shade. I intend to make front version 2 with this fabric.

The pattern is well-designed - as everyone says. The instructions are quite clear and - I know this will sound strange coming from me - very enjoyable to follow. I did switch around (per everyone's reviews) the steps to (0.25 inch) machine hem the sleeves and the stitching of the side seams. It's easier that way.

I am loving the hand stitching involved. Yes, you did read that correctly, I am such a convert. The line of the blouse (which I would only make in something with good, slinky, woven drape) is gorgeous.

I'm making the 8 and (hmmm, broken record anyone?), I fear it may be too big - even in the chest! I'm technically a 6 in Colette Patterns, but I didn't feel the need to full-bust-adjust this (Sarai makes patterns for women with fulsome breasts) and I wanted to be sure it would fit.

It's one of those tops the final fit of which is totally unknowable till the last minute (when the back closures go in). I'm hoping it won't be too big, but if it is, no worries, I will simply make it in the 6 next time.

Time, Time, Time

One of these days I'm going to count up the number of references to "time" on this blog - to not having it or needing it or enjoying it or wishing for more of it. I observe this in my writing all the time (ha!) - moreso than in any that of my fave blogs, many of whom are written by extremely busy people. (Dare I suggest it, they may be people even busier than me :-))

So here's another go at telling you that I have tons to say. Really, the details of my mind are so utterly fun and full you would love to take a ride on "Kristin's Tilt-A-Whirl Brain". (You do have to be a certain height though. It's not exactly PG in there.)

Meanwhile, let me give you a few sewing related updates:

• Even if you don't intend to do the Lady Grey sew along, you should bookmark Gertie's site and read along. It's totally fascinating. I'd be interested to hear about it - and to read the comments and view the Flickr page - whether I sewed or not, never mind simply not "actively" participating. I very much appreciate the opportunity to sew in a community, to the completion of a common goal. In truth, I am lonely in my sewing sometimes. I mean, sometimes it's tough having only your stealth and newbie skills for company. I rely on my sewing friends (see sidebar) for all kinds of support - emotional to practical. I am so glad to have a chance to do something that 140 other people will be doing simultaneously. I'm a big believer in group energy, so I'm intrigued to see how this is going to play out.
• It's going to be full-on coat sewing during a month when I'll also be traveling on a few occasions for work. So I wonder how I'm going to fit it all in. I mean, where will I find the time??? (please see above).
• FYI, the fashion fabric I bought for my coat is a navy boucle boiled wool (not matted like so much boiled wool. That's a look I do not like.) Still haven't found the perfect lining. Have the muslin but need to get a bunch of interlining and interfacing supplies. I'm prob going to try to do this hardcore, with the group, so I'll need to use hair canvas (for tailoring) and lambswool interlining (for warmth) etc. If I stop to think about it, I get a bit nervous. So I don't bother to do too much thinking.
• Another FYI, in case you're still considering joining this sew along, you should know the coat will have cost me about 150 bucks by the time I add in all the supplies and fabrics. That's before I spend 30 plus hours making it. So maybe, unless you're really stoked, you may want to go to Club Monaco and buy yourself something warm and chic. I bet you could work out a participatory blog experience out of that, with a little thought. And I'm likely to join, knowing me.
• BTW, don't begrudge the cost of your coats. Now that I'm making one, I don't think I could consider spending less than $500.00 on one ever again, economies of scale notwithstanding. I used to wonder how people spent thousands of dollars on garments. These days I can't believe that one can buy a pair of pants for less money than it costs to purchase the raw materials to make them.
• The Colette Patterns Sencha top is finally available for reorder: It's been out of stock forever (she says, like she's been sewing for years or something?!) because everyone in the freakin' sewosphere wants a chance at it. I just snapped it up to make with 2 woven fabrics I LOVE. One is an animal print (vaguely sheer) and the other is a merlot-coloured matte silk. Here's hoping I can pull this one off so that I look that much more elegant in my new pencil skirt.
• BTW, I'm totally thrilled with the new pencil skirt. I've practically forgotten all the ways in which it is imperfect.