Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Retrofitting

Vogue Very Easy 8123 took me 2 weeks - a eternity by my own standards. I will admit that the instructions were clear, though I wish they'd just told me how to line the freakin' jacket (I can't easily extrapolate that with my current skill level) so that I wouldn't have had to come up with an alternative seam-treatment solution (aka seam binding). It's a pretty, vintage technique - which the pattern didn't instruct about - I just winged it by modeling the sewing experiences of others - but it's a time suck.

At any rate, I am happy with the results. I used a felted wool (I think) with a little bit of 4 way stretch - just a bit. Originally, I cut the pattern and did an FBA (full bust adjustment) but realized, after spending hours on the adjustment and the muslin, that it was grossly unneeded given the loose-fit and ease built into the pattern. The alteration itself was much more successful than my last attempt.

This time, I didn't do the Y variation - just the regular one - and then I managed to figure out how to remove the side dart by moving it to the front waist (which would have looked weird) and then shifting it to the side seam i.e. cutting it off. In the end, I managed to add room in the bust with NO discernible dart. That's a pretty spiffy alteration that I had to search high and low to find out about. I'm pretty proud of myself for having nabbed it, even if unnecessarily.

My second muslin (yes, I made 2?!), cut from the regular size 12 - but shortened through the waist to accommodate my proportions - showed the largely unaltered pattern sizing was fine and here are the finished results:

Sorry the photo is dark - it was tough to get a light enough shot...





That button is a fake! I used snaps to afix the collar ends. My button binder couldn't handle a button that big.

14 comments:

  1. Fantastic! Love how you've finishsd it.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Just gorgeous, K. I am continually impressed by your skill!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Your jacket looks fabulous!

    ReplyDelete
  4. you're very talented!!!
    xoxo
    lamia
    http://ginger-chocolateandhoney.blogspot.com/

    ReplyDelete
  5. Beautiful! Any chance of you modelling it?

    ReplyDelete
  6. It is absolutely gorgeous. One of my favorite jackets is very much like this one. It is a little longer and is belted. I love the shape. I always feel very couture whenever I wear it.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Miss C: Thank you! It was a bitch, let me tell you.

    Sal: Aw thank you. I just don't show the iffy parts :-)

    Monkey: Merci!

    Andrea: It's ready and waiting for you to try!

    Mardel: Thank you so much. I think you have this pattern and are going to make it soon?

    Lamia: Thank you. It's trial by fire :-)

    Raven: Yes. You know how I talk about modeling for weeks and then eventually find 10 minutes to a) look good when b) dressed well to c) get Scott to take pics. It's a balancing act :-)

    Bel: It does feel very couture! And, well, I guess it is in its own way :-) What colour is yours?

    ReplyDelete
  8. Oh great! You did a good job! I love this finish product. =D

    Jules
    Soloden.Com
    The Brown Mestizo

    ReplyDelete
  9. You naughty little button-faker.

    ReplyDelete
  10. Jules: Thanks!

    Wendy: A girl's gotta do what a girl's gotta do :-)

    ReplyDelete
  11. it looks incredible! you are quite the seamstress!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    ReplyDelete
  12. J: I am happier with this piece than any other I've made, I think. Thank you!

    ReplyDelete