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| Read on for info about why there's torquing at the left centre front. No, it's not about badly aligned closures, alas... |
Here are a couple more shots, on the ground, to show off the lines on something that isn't that wretched dress form. Why did I waste my money on that thing??
Look, I'm not done with the Janet Jacket. Well, I'm done with it for a while cuz I fucking hate everything jacket-related. But I'm going to crack this code eventually. Believe me. Because I can really see the potential. In fact, this jacket is vaguely wearable - if not up to standard - so I may even take it out for a couple of test drives, to further illuminate the issues.
Let's start with the good:
- I made this thing with barely a look at instructions (mainly cuz there are barely instructions to consider, but you get my point). I know how to construct a tailored jacket and I'm pleased by that.
- I do love stretch charmeuse and I'm going to persist with it in silk and synthetic versions.
- I've made a lot of alterations, over 3 "muslins" and the majority of them have improved the fit.
- I have encountered challenge after challenge and I have persisted calmly. That's the only reason we have anything at all to look at.
In a previous post, I discussed the sharpei neck issue and indicated that I had to remove .5 of an inch wedge from the centre back tapering at the shoulder. Um, that was not true. On reconsideration, I took out 1.5 inches of wedge. And I still ended up with this:
Do you see those bubbles of fabric? I'm starting to wonder if my problem is that I don't have enough fabric rather than too much - but I don't know how that can be because the sharpei issue is INCREDIBLY improved in this version for all of that fabric removal.
I'm also starting to wonder if my choice of drapey fabric and soft interfacing may be the cause of this. Maybe this jacket could do with a firmer material.
So while we're on the topic, let's talk about wool crepe:
The thing that makes wool crepe a dream to sew with makes it intolerable to tailor. I will not be using wool crepe on this jacket in the future. In fact, it's gonna be a cold day in hell before I use wool crepe on anything more tailored than a sheath dress from here on in.
Crepe is so malleable that it takes every suggestion of fabric manipulation and runs riot with it. It's so sensitive. It's got no backbone, no pun intended and it loves to wrinkle. I don't care if it has nice drape, writ large. It has crap drape on a tailored item where one needs structure to prevail.
On more mundane fitting topics:
- Do not, imagining yourself a class-act pattern adjuster, forget to take an inch off the bottom of your jacket front and facing pieces. OK, it would have been game over if I'd actually made these pieces an inch too short to begin with. But this "fix" required surgery, far into the process of jacket construction, and the end result is one side that moves slightly off-grain and torques the entire finished product.
- Also: As S. noted, when last she was over, after increasing the full bust depth by like a zillion per cent, I've got to take quite a bit of fabric out of the front princess seam above the full bust. That's what I like to call my small bust adjustment.
- And I've got to take about an .5 inch, somehow, off the back armscye. It's gapey.
- I've got to lengthen the arms by .75 inch.
There are no awards for making mediocre products, only the potential for winning with persistence.
Today's questions: What's up with the sharpei neck - do I need to take out another wedge? Is it fabric related? Is it something else? Can you share a sad tale of sewing meh-ness? Let's talk.
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I love reading about your process! It's completely alien to me, but that's what makes it so fun! I'm impressed that you've handled all the tweaks with such calm. I hope it was enjoyable or at least satisfying! I do think you should wear it a few times - for science, or just on the off chance maybe you'll like it!
ReplyDeleteOh, I'm glad - cuz I kind of hate living it sometimes :-) I was calm. Now I'm wallowing.
DeleteIsn't it cruel that sometimes you learn the most from the most frustrating experiences? Thanks for sharing!
ReplyDeleteIt's all kinds of wrong, D.
DeleteI'm in awe of your patience, if I'd made three muslins and still had a mediocre end result I'd be swearing a blue streak, not posting so matter-of-factly on the internet. :-) And if the fit isn't any worse than RTW, I'd wear it--if anyone asks, you can say you bought it. ;-)
ReplyDeleteI'm so not patient! I am simply so fixated that it makes me look patient :-)
DeleteFor the sharpei issue, I would rip out the CB seam and the shoulder seams to see where the fabric really wants to go. That will tell you if you have too much somewhere or not enough or a combination.
ReplyDeleteA: My fitting friend said something similar. And I got a great email today from Anne at the Clothing Engineer that posits something in the drafting. Stay tuned.
DeleteI don't know if this will make sense... but here goes! I've noticed when fitting clothes on other people that when lines/ folds appear - that the problem is often perpendicular to the line you see. Eg ..horizontal lines across a thigh indicates trouser leg is too tight so you slash a line perpendicular to the original problem line. That is you draw a vertical line on the pattern and increase the width.
ReplyDeleteWhen I saw the line at the back neck of your jacket, my first thought is that it didn't have enough fabric to go around the neck, so was folding instead. I would try opening it with a little vertical slash either side of the center back neck. So it's like adding in a small v-shaped wedge either side. But without seeing it on - maybe I'm reading it all wrong!
I think this is a totally useful strategy. Slash and see how the fabric moves. And it wouldn't surprise me, having cut a huge wedge of height (which does impact width), if this is the issue. I think I've got to start again, unfortunately. Like back to the original pattern.
DeleteThis is exactly why I've been putting off a tailored jacket. Bravo to you for the courage! You'll get it right, sometime -_ I'd like to see a picture of it on for fit. . .
ReplyDeleteOh, Pam. Ain't no way anyone will ever see a photo. Sorry. :-)
DeleteWow, commiserations in your disappointment, but I take my hat off to your calmness about it! I need to get me some of that! I am glad you've pinpointed some areas that were the problem. I loved reading about it!
ReplyDeleteUm, your pattern altering is an exercise in collectedness! And you know how it is. I just need to step away from the edge.
DeleteAs someone else stated, it's hard to know what is going on without seeing it on. I can't tell from the pictures but does the jacket have shoulder pads? or is it suppose to have shoulder pads? Maybe the shoulder angle isn't correct for you. Do a little pinch with it on. As far as the bubbles on the front, that looks a little bit like the fabric stretched. Did you interface the front? I have no thoughts on the actual neckline. Good luck!
ReplyDeleteIt does have shoulder pads. And the shoulder angle may have been messed up by the wedge alteration I did last muslin. Or maybe I inserted the sleeves with too much of a forward shoulder alteration.
DeleteThe fabric on the front most definitely didn't stretch, though it was overworked in the end. It's actually the most stable part of the jacket. It's weft interfaced on the facing. I'm fairly certain about what caused the puckering on the front - not that it makes it any easier to deal with!
Comparing this back neck wrinkle to the previous back neck wrinkle this one, after removing the wedge, appears to be more wrinkled, not less imho.
ReplyDeleteI sometimes get a similar wrinkle, although shorter, if the shoulder slope if wrong. I'm assuming that the shoulder pads are buried in the lining and wondering what happens to the neck wrinkle if you remove the pad? If the shoulder was angled too far upward at the end it could cause the shoulder seam to buckle where it curves up the neck.
The other thought is that with the way the shoulder seam extends up and curves up the neck is that the curve is either in the wrong place or too sharp of an angle?
I've got a few thoughts about the cause and NONE of them have to do with the height of the back neck. I suspect it was ok to start and something else was causing that wrinkle. Some food for thought!
Despite your being slightly unhappy with it, it looks beautiful!
OK, you are right (in the photos), but I don't know that that's the case in real life. I do recall the former one being much worse. The problem was there without the shoulder pad, but seems a bit worse with it. And I think you're right. It's a red herring. Which is why, I realize I'm going to have to start again. Which makes me ridiculously irritated. Thank you so much for this food for thought.
DeleteIt seems often that when I change something and it doesn't work and I change it more (what seems like too much) and it doesn't work - that's a good indicator that I wasn't changing the right thing in the first place. I feel like often the best adjustments are <1 inch.
DeleteYou're right. In general, I totally agree.
DeleteSo sorry that you are unhappy with your jacket that I know you put a lot of work into. Thanks for the advise about using and handling wool crape. I've never worked with that fabric.
ReplyDeleteStay away! (Unless it's for skirts or dresses)
DeleteDid you compare the main pieces of this jacket to a previous make such as the starlet jacket? It can help you with the main seams on top of giving valuable information regarding the issue with the back.
ReplyDeleteR: I can't bring myself to look at that pattern again - it traumatized me. But of course I should look at it. I've got to look. I've got to start comparing my patterns more comfortably.
DeleteI may be completely wrong, but I think that problem could be that it's just too soft. It holds the shape near the seam, but when it has no support, it forms that bulge because gravity is a bitch. May be some thin interfacing could save the day?
ReplyDeleteI think this is a big part of the issue - which may be compounded by drafting that gives no stabilization from hem to neck. I've used interfacing but it just wasn't firm enough...
DeleteI think you need to go shopping. You need a big, yellow scarf (or one with a good bit of matching yellow in it). Then you need to roll up the sleeves a couple inches, put on a white t-shirt, put on the jacket, and then the scarf. Around the outside of the jacket's neck. Problem solved!
ReplyDeleteGail...that's genius.
DeleteAnd this jacket is still a bajillion times nicer than any rtw jacket! I love the yellow lining.
I have some scarves with yellow! But I am not wearing this thing :-) Mind you, the idea of rolling up the sleeves is excellent. If only the rest of the thing weren't such a mess!
DeleteAnd Evie: You must make yourself something with yellow lining. It is so cheering!
Oh, Kristin. I'm sorry this one is not cracked yet. I know nothing about fitting jackets but my instinct tells me this one wants to be made in a stable woven. The crepe may be too drapey for it. Also, I know you don't like tissue fitting, but perhaps it could help with this pattern. Happy to help you with it if you'd like.
ReplyDeleteI do think stable fabric is key. I also think I've got to reconsider some other elements. I suppose I shouldn't be so miserable. I mean, I'm getting better on understanding the bust adjustments (even if I didn't go far enough on removing excess upper bust fabric). I'm better at understanding where to add and subtract length above and below the waist. I just have to figure out 8000 other details. xo
Delete