Thursday, January 2, 2014

Winter Sewing: Armsyces and Sleeveheads (And Why Grading on Multi-sized Patterns Isn't Helpful)

I don't even know how it's possible, but Lord, I have to alter the armscye and the sleevehead to get it the unit to fit my shape.

Original armscye - prior to altering:


See how round and relatively symmetrical the armsyce is? There's no dart on the side front piece, as yet, to skew the length and depth of the front armscye.

New armscye - plus sleeves (admittedly, the lining pieces, but proportions are basically the same):

Note: I closed the dart on the lining piece before cutting out the fabric, so that is the"darted side front" on the left...
And there's my adjusted armscye - it's at a completely different angle. Doesn't look like anyone could actually wear what comes of sewing this up - but I swear, it works on me?! I have a super high front armhole but the boobs really complicate things?!

I sense, this is why every time I do a "regular" darted FBA it's a mess. The way I'm shaped, I need sharp, forward projection at the centre bust but I can't take it anywhere else or it gapes (under the bust, in the waist - and, most notably, at the side of the breast at the front armscye).

For kicks, check out that sleeve head. I wish I still had the original to show you but, trust me, it's an entirely different shape. The original looked like a bell on the front (right side of the right piece)and a steep slope on the back (left side of right piece and the piece to the left of it). My version, as you can see, is like a bunny hill on the back and a very short jump on the front. I removed 3 inches of depth from the apex of the sleevehead.

I couldn't have intuited this. I had to drape it. (Well, my super-smart fitting friend S. taught me how to do this and has helped me to accomplish it in the past. This time, I'm just starting to feel alright about completely changing the shape of everything.)

This is why I'm really starting to question the value of multi-sized patterns, for me. I can never simply grade between sizes. I have to do surgery on these pieces. Seriously, EVERY piece (save interfacing) has at least one alteration and most have 2 or 3. If you multiply that by 12, you're looking at 36 minor to significant alterations, to get this pattern to fit. The only ones that grading might have helped me with (but not adequately, given how short in the waist I am), are length of pieces and width in the waist. Peeps, I can shorten a piece and narrow a waist, practically by eyeballing (ok, not true! I don't eyeball!). It's the ready-made FBA I want.

No one's ever going to design patterns with my bust shape, dimensions and arms in mind. They'd be stupid to. I'm one in a million, from the pattern drafting perspective. (Oooh, that makes me sound so good!) Chances are, you're one in a million in a totally different way.

While I'm not suggesting that they don't work for some, my emerging opinion is that multi-sized patterns give people a false sense of security. They make you think that you can go from one size to the next, with the help of a curved ruler, and fitting will miraculously occur.

Fitting is a freakin' production. Oh, and while we're at it, so is tailoring. So is sewing beautifully. And don't forget about that truly nuanced and delicate art - choosing which fabric will work with what pattern on what shape of body. This is why it takes years to become an expert. You'll flirt with one element, only to let another fall by the wayside. This is ok, in my opinion. I love the complexity of sewing.

I do think that, if you want to get good, sewing the same pattern again and again and again - in different fabrics having different properties, using different techiques and methods, refining fit each go round - is a fairly solid approach. Of course, it's not high on the novelty scale.

But I guess you can't have everything all at once.

14 comments:

  1. As far as grading K. I'm the same way -- I feel your pain -- for my bodice area I have to change the top so much. I do it with my sloper -- but it's difficult and I never know how the final result will turn out. I love your progress so far!

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    1. It's true that you just don't know how it's going to end up. But really, following a pattern leads to the same result :-)

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  2. I agree with you on repetition. Muslins also are a great learning experience.

    I think that for bodices, grading between sizes isn't effective because the shoulder/armscye/bust/sleeve relationship is generally just too complicated for non-specific fitting. I generally do grade from my waist to hip using multisized patterns. But I think the reason it works is that it would be an easy alteration to make anyway. And actually, it comes out better in woven fabrics if I grade only a bit and take up the rest with darts/pleats/gathers or whatever design feature there is.

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    1. You've said it so well: the relationships are just to complicated for non-specific fitting!

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  3. I'm with you on the multi-sized patterns! They don't work for me either.

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  4. You might become a pattern drafter all this work!

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    1. Ha! I think that's not likely to happen any time soon. As evidenced by how inept I often end up being :-)

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  5. I've never found multi-size patterns to be of any use, I think that they are more a convenience to the pattern companies than to the individual stitcher. (only print two variations instead of all the sizes...)

    Fitting the upper bodice/shoulder/armsceye area is my nemesis, and one I am determined to conquer this year. I have signed up for two Craftsy classes on fitting, am planning on a papertape dress form to help me see myself in 3-D, and hope by the end of the year to have a basic bodice pattern that actually fits where my own arms/shoulders/bust are located

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    1. I've seen that fitting class and I'm intrigued - but I've got so many Craftsy classes that are languishing in my queue. I seem to learn better by just jumping in and using the courses on an as needed basis.

      Keep me posted on how you like it.

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  6. Such an insightful post. It is a production...but one day, maybe, we'll crack it!

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  7. Fun process! I have been working on a jacket with similar princess pieces (the Cordova) for two months now. I redid the armhole, drafted a new two-piece sleeve, cut 4 muslins of said sleeve, and am helping my mom do the same. I'm not tired yet, and find this kind of work illuminating! Your new armhole looks right for a larger bust. (I keep telling my mom that.) But I am so with you on multi-sized patterns. Having another size at hand does not help me fit the pattern. find it easier to work with one size and assume I will make alterations. I really enjoy learning about fit, it's such a separate art, no?

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    1. I have to look up that pattern...And I'm intrigued to know that you think the sleeve is emblematic of that which works for a larger bust! Do you know that just from experience? Have you read it somewhere? I'd love to hear more.

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