The Spring / Summer Sewing Capsule

I feel rather abnormal. I mean, usually, even if I'm exhausted, a weekend of extended sleeping and lying on the couch takes the edge off. Before I know it, I'm planning something - baking a pie, making some shampoo, sewing (remember that?), knitting a new garment, a long walk with errands, doing a me-tailored yoga practice...

Weirdly, it's taking all of my energy to stay somewhat engaged, and that just cuz I'm freaked out by apathy.

I decided those jeans I need to hem are going back to the store. They're too low-rise and I don't feel like spending half my life yanking them up over the puff-ball that is my lower abdomen. Not to mention that they cost 300 bucks. For 300 bucks jeans have got to be perfect.

I did finish that pair of striped (serious stash-busting) socks. I'll photo them soon and share some new feelings about striped socks. The short story is, just don't. Unless you really want to use up yarn in @25 gram increments, in multiple colours, why inconvenience yourself? Aren't socks about simple, wearable comfort?

This morning I went through my sewing cupboard to get a lay of the land. Given that I love buying fabric, I've got a bit of fun ahead of me this aft. Seems I don't have much in the appropriate yardages to accomplish any of my preferred projects. How does this always happen??

By preferred projects I mean this:

• Garments that are tried and tested (to some extent)
• Garments that I know I'll wear
• Garments that are comfortable
• Garments that I'm not going to have to mess with overly to make them fit

Here's what I've come up with so far. I can't say whether I'll get some mojo back and go on a tear, but I sense this is my plan until the reno starts, at which point all the sewing will be packed away till my house is done. Links point you to previous posts with pics...

Kristin Spring / Summer Sewing:

• Harper Jacket - I wear this at least once a week so I think I may have found my match for the insanely gorgeous cashmere double knit Mardel kindly gifted to me years ago. This fabric is fuchsia on one side and grey on the other. It's a true winter fabric so I won't lead with this garment, but it would be so nice to have it at my access in the fall.

• Who doesn't need a new, bespoke T shirt, made from one's personal sloper? I was hoping to make one of these using a remnant of electric blue bamboo in my stash but, given that I've only got 0.65 of a yard,  I'm going to have to shore it up with some extra from the store. Hope I can find the same bolt of fabric (or one, the colour of which, works as a match).

• Hudson Pants - I wear these at home constantly. They're perfect for sleeping. They're perfect for yoga. I've got some cylindrical, thick t-shirt fabric that would work for another pair, even if it's not exciting. Of course, I'm compelled to make these with my beloved French terry, so I'm likely to be investing in another yard of that...

• DKNY Dress (V1179) -  Lord, I've worn my 2 other versions of this dress into the ground, despite the fact that my workmanship left much to be desired. I could use a striped jersey in my stash (bought ages ago from Blackbird Fabrics) but I'm likely to hedge my bets and replace some of my modal or bamboo from Shu Ching. If I can find the same bolts, I can maximize the remnants I still have in my stash.

• V8323 Very Easy Vogue Top - This is the one I haven't quite cracked (though I've made NUMEROUS muslins). Gonna buy myself a bit more nice fabric to give it one more go. I know I keep saying I've had it with this (after 6 toiles?!) but I see its potential and I've worked so hard to re-draft the pattern such that it can work for my narrow, short and curvy frame.

• Another sleeveless version of V8790. Turns out I do have a fabric in my stash to make this one. It's the fun floral (see Jalie 2921 top in that link) that Gillian and I both bought (and which she gifted me her remnants of). Added to my remnants, it's enough to make this top. Given that I didn't love the construction process last time, I do hope I find a sanguine way, going forward.

I'm bummed that these aren't more exciting but I've got to stick to the straight and narrow right now. There's just too much afoot - and my body shape is too in flux - to go on a tailoring resurgence this spring. My goal is to make these items fit so gorgeously - in such lovely fabrics - that they'll thrill even if they're aren't new-to-me patterns. And I do intend to supplement with RTW. When one's all over the map, try-and-buy is the way to go.

The Weekend that Was

I was more productive this weekend than I imagined I could be. I'm actually totally unmotivated. So I don't know how I managed to alter a pair of jeans (substantively), finish and block a sweater and make 2 pairs of pants. But no, I didn't garden and the front of my house is shabby.

How did this happen?

Altering the New Jeans

Well the jeans were my priority. The weather has shifted (it'll warm up again but we're moving slowly towards an inevitable temperature and it's cold) so I need some pants that work. I'm bored of my skinnies (though they serve my wardrobe well) and most of the things in my closet either don't fit or they're just not doing it for me right now. I ended up narrowing the flare by 2 inches on each leg and the jeans are still flared, if mildly. It's a sailor-y look that works well on my figure. I also removed 5 inches of length from the hem. (Man, I could have made jeans for a baby with the volume of denim scraps.) Let me say that the pants are really well made. The inner outer leg is sewn with an inch of seam allowance - not serged shut - so that, if you want to make these wider, theoretically you can with relative ease. There was also an extra inch of fabric at the original hem to work with. It's not often I see that. Given the high waist and wide-leg, I sense these will look great with my new Jenna cardigan.

BTW, I do intend - as mentioned - to take photos of my new handmade (and purchased) garments. But factors must align (time in the morning, weather). I haven't forgotten.

Making the Hudson Pant(s)

The Hudson pants were fun to make. I had a mini-assembly line going as I made 2 pairs of these simultaneously - one ankle length and the other cropped. I used my two, rather helpful (if I do say so myself) tutorials on sewing in a flat elastic waistband. In case you're interested, here's the first tutorial. Here's the second.

I should take a photo of the finished pants, flat, just to show them off but I don't know if they'll look any more interesting than any other photos of sweatpants I photographed unworn. Their genius is in the INSANELY comfortable French terry of which they are constructed..

I'm really happy with the cropped version because it will replace a RTW version that I've worn into the ground over the last 5 summers. I'm pleased to know (understatement) that I can recreate these again and again because the cropped sweatpant is a surprisingly attractive look on me.

Finishing Kristin's Cowl Pullover

It appears that the easiest way to finish a cowl-neck sweater quickly is to decide, after an inch of edging, that you'd prefer to wear a crew neck! That's what happened to me and - I swear - it wasn't just a decision based on my urge to be done with this project. The pullover is blocking now and I do hope that it springs back, to its former dimensions and shape, when dry. (Of course, I didn't measure before blocking - like an idiot.) I know it's not going to align entirely with the measurements provided to me in the Custom Fit pattern. (I measured it a number of times while knitting.)

What I can say is that all of the pre-block vertical measurements were spot on. The horizontal ones I can't really comment on because I had that rip-back (requiring me to ease in a lot of extra yarn). As such, my gauge in the waist is totally messed with; it's beyond my ability to assess the pattern's accuracy there. I will say that the hip circumference was larger than it should have been (pre-blocking) and the shoulder width was spot on. I can't quibble much with the validity of one's ability to achieve Custom Fit measurements - though I'm not sure those are entirely accurate unless you use a really large swatch and you know exactly what finished dimensions you want (not necessarily what you'll get automatically). I have lots of other things to say about the system, which I'll get into when I post on this again, following blocking.

TL/DR: If you don't know how to fit I don't know whether Custom Fit is actually going to fix the problem for you.

So that's my weekend. Now I'm eating cheezies for dinner because I feel like it.

Short and Sweet

Never do I love being small so much as when I'm sewing.

Turns out that I was more than 10 inches short-changed on the 2-yard length of French terry I bought at Chu Shing. They're definitely not generous with the cuts there but that's flat-out annoying. I don't like to be the kind of person who has to eye up fabric as it's being measured out... What worked in my favour is that the terry is 66 inches wide (I thought it was 60 but I was in error).

Nonetheless, apparently, if you're not tall you can get 2 pairs of Hudsons out of 1.5 yards of 66 inch wide fabric:

I haven't yet sewn these - that's tomorrow's activity - but they're good to go.

Admittedly, one pair is cropped and I left off the pockets (I don't need the lower waist bulk). One pair's for jammies and the cropped one is for chic summer Friday-wear. I suspect that pair's going to spend a few months in the closet before making an appearance next summer.

On the topic of being short and making cropped things, this is what was left of my 1 yard of 60" ponte that I used to make my ill-fated version of the Jenna cardigan (the version I threw away):

Sure, it's great being 5'10' but when you want to get a sweater out of a yard of fabric, being a short-waisted 5'3" works just fine :-)

2015 Fall Capsule Wardrobe: The Planning Progresses

Thanks everyone, for commenting on my proposed fall sewing plans. Here's where things stand now (after one of those really "in your face" sew-planning days that yields as many questions as answers - and paper cuts):

• I bought the StyleArc Danni Dolman dress, Emily Knit Top, Sunny Knit Top and Fiona Cardigan. (See here for tech drawings of each.) 

• I put together one of those documents I like to make, outlining my fabric, pattern and pattern-with-fabric options. On page 2 you can see that I landed on these capsule collection choices: 

• StyleArc Sunny Top (in Navy French Terry, if I can do it with 1.25 yards...)

• Self-Drafted Kimono Sleeve Dress (Electric Blue Bamboo)

• StyleArc Danni Dolman Dress (Lavender Modal)

• True Bias Hudson Pants (in Slate French Terry unless I can't do the Sunny in 1.25 of Navy French Terry. Then I'll switch them cuz I think I can get short Hudsons out of a smaller yardage.)

• Vogue 8323 (Lavender Modal or this blue (what a shock) Tencel/Wool jersey I bought from Fabrications a long time ago but don't seem to have any record of, like, anywhere. It's in my closet though. Should have enough of one of these.)

I dispute the required yardages given that I always shorten EVERYTHING by 3 inches. So I'm inclined to give some of my shorter yardages a try, if it seems possible.

What does this tell me about myself?

• I'm embracing the knits big time.
• I'm not into setting in sleeves, apparently, because every one of these options (that has sleeves) has a kimono sleeve of sorts.
• I like making capsule collections of 5 items.
• 4 of these will be work-worthy (if perhaps on Friday)

I spent Sunday aft making up documents, altering my TNTs (yup, if you go long enough, you've got to revisit and alter these things) and assembling downloadable patterns. Now I remember why I buy the ones in an envelope. Lord, what a time, paper, ink and tape suck. Still, it beats waiting. I think.

Here's a glimpse at what I was up to:

Sunny Cocoon Top 

StyleArc Sunny Cocoon Top. Yeah, those are my exceedingly brown feet (only part of me with colour).

Have you ever seen a pattern that looks like this? Seriously, I cut the 10 but I am vaguely afraid. It's very loose looking. I can tell (having done very prelim measurements) that I'm going to have to cut 4 inches off the length and 3 inches from the sleeves (or maybe the centre back?!) The sleeves are measured from the centre back and they're drop shoulder. This should be an adventure, she says optimistically.

Danni Dolman Dress

39 pages to create a dress that's 2 pieces and some ribbing. This is more than half of the floorspace of my sewga room...

Here's what's left after cutting - but note the cutting is rough. I've left space around the cut lines to make alterations...

More to the point, have you ever seen a dress that's effectively 2 pieces?? This thing may look hideous when finished (or not) but it ain't gonna take a long time to put together :-) I need to consider my alterations on this one. I think I'll compare my self-drafted dress (which is also a cut-on sleeve design) and consider shortening the sleeves, waist (to remove overall length), back piece (to remove fabric pooling at the low back and a slight restructure of the boat-esque neck. I'm really narrow in the shoulders so a boat neck for me is like an off the shoulder thing for someone else.

Vogue 8323: I had my biggest shock when I went to check on V8323, which I have only sewn once, back in 2012. OMG, people, in case I wonder if I've learned anything over the years, let this be my example. I am seriously scared by what I found, alterations-wise. Let's just say that I have no idea why I cut all of the excess length of the bodice from the shoulder height?! Actually I suspect it's cuz the armscyes were insanely long (a Vogue trend) and I didn't know what else to do. My originally altered sleeve head looked like a skinny disk. It was insane. I don't know how any of this could have come together into a tolerably adequately-fitting garment. I now understand why it was always so weird feeling to wear.

Strangely, I didn't start from scratch. The Vogue pattern paper can't take it and, really, the original garment wasn't a disaster from a fit perspective. Instead, I went back to my knit sloper and copied the arm depth and armscye shape. I suppose the original had a really long waist and a low-set bust apex - which is the only way my haphazard alteration could have worked. Being self-taught is dangerous, people. We'll see if my latest alterations give me a good result.

Hudson Pants: I don't envision any serious alterations to the Hudson pants (except for shortening) because I only recently fitted them and my lower half is much less prone to changes these days than my midsection.

Self-Drafted Kimono Sleeve Dress: I did alter the self-drafted kimono sleeve dress by adding 1.5 inches at the waist tapering at the full hip. That was a hit to my ego. The bodice (from a vintage Simplicity pattern) is so whack, I daren't do too much to change it (other than making sure the waist works with the skirt). The top was a very good fit in ponte though I cannot figure out how it comes together correctly. I guess I'll relearn as I make it again.

I hope to get started on this next weekend and then complete it over the September long weekend.

Hudson Pants Alternative Waistband Tutorial: Part 2

See Part 1 for instructions on how to create the waistband unit.

You'll be pleased to know that Part 1 is the tricky part (if that's what you were thinking as you followed along). For what it's worth, making the waistband unit is only tricky the first time as you're figuring it out. Thereafter, it's a rather pleasant activity.

Inserting the Waistband Unit into the Pants Unit

For clarity, the waistband unit is comprised of the waistband fabric and the elastic (now assembled). The pants unit is simply the assembled pants legs part of this pattern, now waiting for a waistband.

1. Get oriented. In the pic below I've aligned the centre back seams of the waistband and pants units. the waistband will be attached to the pants by sewing the two, right sides together with the raw edges abutting each other. Make sure that the wrong side of your waistband (the part with the zigzag stitch) is visible.

To clarify, in this photo the waistband is not atop the pants unit. It's sitting above...

2. Pin the waistband to the pants. You can repurpose the pins you used to pin the waistband, prior to pressing. You will likely need to ease the waistband, slightly, around the pants as the waistband will be smaller (by up to a couple of inches). If you've got a lot of easing to do, you can consider clipping the waistband (within the seam allowance only, obviously!) to give a bit of extra stretch. Mind you, the fabric is stretchy so you may not need to do this even with a moderate easing requirement.

When the pinning is done, it'll look like this:

3. Go to your sewing machine and stitch the waistband unit to the pants unit. I use a straight stitch because this is pre-serger basting for me. If you do not have a serger, consider using a zig zag stitch or an overlock stitch to ensure the plasticity of the seam.

You want to stitch within .25" of the elastic - the more confident you are that you won't catch the elastic, the closer you can go. I leave a bit of wiggle room because it makes me less nervous about the serging stage (to follow).

4. Here's how it looks from the right side when you're done. This is NOT pressed:

5. If you've got a serger, now's the time to neaten the raw edge... Serge with the waistband on top so that you can feel - and avoid! - the elastic as you go. Of course, following the basting line of machine stitches should be adequate, but you'll have more cues if you serge with the waistband unit on top.

You'll note that my waistband finishing is particularly lackluster. For some reason, my serger didn't love the double-thick waistband fabric (though it didn't mind any of the other double-thick seams). As a result, my finishing is wonky and I didn't approach the basted stitch as closely as I usually would. I was just trying to keep it together...

6. Press the waistband on both sides:

In the photo above you can see that the waistband is still a bit wavy. I'm willing to bet that, after 2 wears and a wash, this will be almost unnoticeable. While worn, the gathers disappear completely. Again, I'm still experimenting with the required width of the waistband fabric. I hope to be able to diminish any wrinkles still further.

I think you'll agree that it's very tidy, smooth and it's lovely not to see the stitching from the right side.

Here's a final shot of the completed pants (remember, I did not make the pockets):

And, so that you can see the flat profile of the waistband, here's a questionable selfie:

So there you go. I really do hope that this helps a few peeps looking for an alternative Hudson Pant waistband. Moreover, it works on all kinds of stretch waistbands!

Please do let me know if you get some use from it. These things are grueling to put together. I'd love your feedback!

Hudson Pants: Alternative Waistband Tutorial (Part 1)

In the stress of recent times, I've been making a lot of Hudson Pants. There's something very meditative about their construction. The cutting is simple (and even more so as I don't make the pockets). The finished product is utterly comfortable and comforting. I realize that this is not high fashion - at least in the fabrics I've employed so far - but the cost-per-wear factor is through the roof.

I've been threatening to do a tutorial, something I appreciate so much whenever I come across a useful one, but you know... Anyway, excuses be damned. The time has come. I will not apologize for the vaguely amateur photos cuz I am working solo and I'm simultaneously sewing! If this helps anyone, I'm thrilled.

This post covers Part 1 of the waistband assembly - creating the waistband unit. Part 2, to follow, shows how this is attached to the pants unit.

Who's this tutorial for?

• Those who find the waistband, as instructed, to be on the bulky side
• Those who don't like visible zig zag stitching on the right side of the fabric. You will only see one line of zig zag stitching in the centre of the wrong side of the waistband unit.
• Those who don't like waist ties 
• Those who aren't nuts about shirring of the waistband around the elastic.

What You Need To Consider Before You Cut Your Fabric:

• This version assembles the waistband independently of the pants. You can start with the waistband construction and add it to the pants at the end.

• There is no insertion of the elastic into a finished tube.

• This version depends on a closer proximity (than that directed in the pattern) of dimensions between the waist elastic, the waistband and the assembled pants unit (to which the waistband unit will be attached). 

• You should aim for no more than 4 inches difference between the elastic and waistband (elastic is smaller, obviously). The difference in circumference between the waistband (prior to elastic insertion) and assembled pants unit should be no more than 1-2" inches. 

• Vis a vis bullet above, the waistband will sit lower than the natural waist so you don't want to size the elastic in accordance with your natural waist measurement. Add an inch or 2 to account for where the Hudson pant waist will hit (and depending on your own shape, of course). This method favours the slim-hipped.

1. For starters, sew the elastic according to pattern instructions. Then pin, for reference, the circular elastic at 4 equal points. The original point should be at the elastic seam (where you stitched one side to the other to make a tube).

2. Cut the waistband fabric, sew it as instructed and fold the waistband in half (parallel with the direction of stretch).  

Note: I'm using 1.5" thick elastic (not 2", which the pattern recommends). I prefer the width and I find it creates less bulk for the short-waisted among us.  If you choose to work with this width of elastic, you will need to slim the thickness of the waistband by approximately 1" (0.5" on either edge). Modify your pattern piece before you cut so that you don't waste fabric. There should be @0.5" seam allowance at the raw edge of the waistband unit once the elastic is sewn into the band.

3. Press the fold well on both sides. Then re-open the waistband.

4. Use a ruler to chalk the fold crease. This is to ensure that you can see the fold line clearly when you sew the waistband elastic into the waistband fabric.

You'll want to pin the waistband fabric in quarters, as you did in step 1. for the elastic. Remember, the initial pin is at the seam which connects the band.

5. I like to chalk the wrong side (at the centre of the fabric on the side into which I'll sew the elastic) because it allows me to reposition my pins at the raw edge of that side. These pins are going to assist me in easing the elastic into the waistband unit.

6. Now - with the waistband UNfolded, you're going to sew (using a medium zig zag stitch in the centre of the elastic) the elastic into the waistband fabric. No need to pin things together. Just ensure that you start so that the seam of the elastic is atop the seam of the waistband fabric and that the inner edge of the elastic abuts the chalk/fold line of the waistband exactly.  

I ensure that the zig zag line remains straight by aligning the raw edge of the fabric (on the right side of the photo) with one of the ruler lines on the plate of my machine. If you don't have ruler lines, determine where you want the line to be and use a piece of tape to act as the marker.

The beauty of this method is that all you need to do, as you sew, is pull the elastic such that, as you go, the elastic pin meets up with the corresponding quarterly pin in the waistband. No need to pin elastic to the waistband.

7. Here's what the unfolded waistband unit looks like after you've sewn the elastic into what is now the wrong side:

 The folded, finished right-side looks like this:

See, no zig zag and no channel (cuz there won't be a waist tie).

The folded, finished wrong side looks like this:

Note: Until it's sewn into the pants unit, the waistband unit will look somewhat gathered. The puckers are diminished by decreasing the differential between the size of the waistband fabric and the elastic tube. What I mean specifically: If you make the waistband smaller, you'll get fewer gathers.

However, the smaller you make the waistband unit overall, the smaller you'll have to make your pants unit (at the waist edge) so as not to have too much of a differential between the pants and waistband raw edges. For reference - the differential here is @4 inches - the waistband fabric is 35.5" and the elastic is 31.5" (I DO NOT like tight elastic around my waist and keep in mind that this sits at the low waist - so it's not at the thinnest part of your torso, cut accordingly).

I'm experimenting, over time, with making the waistband fabric circumference smaller. Next time I make these, I'm going to aim for waistband fabric at 34.5". That'll mean I'll have a higher differential between the circumference of the waistband raw-edge and the pants-unit raw edge (36") but, if I can ease one into the other successfully, I sense there will be no ruching in the finished waistband.

8.  Now steam the pinned-closed waistband unit on both sides. No need to press. You just want to make sure that the fold hugs the top edge of the elastic closely.

Note that I pin in the seam allowance close to the elastic but not on top of it. This will act as a guide when I eventually sew the waistband into the pants.

The way I attach the pins (and I use many of them) is by stretching the elastic slightly as I go, to ensure that both sides of the folded-over raw edges are being caught without ripples. I want the raw edge of the waistband half, with the elastic sewn in, to be entirely flat against the raw edge of the waistband half that is unencumbered.

One more thing: You don't need to be utterly perfect here. Note how I didn't ease the elastic in particularly well - which is why you can see small puckers (the natural impact of easing) on one side and a totally smooth section on the other side. Yeah, I should have been more even when I pulled the elastic taut as I eased, but sometimes things don't go perfectly. It will be practically unnoticeable when the waistband unit is sewn into the pants unit. It won't be observable at all when the waistband is worn.

Next up, sewing this into the actual pants unit.

Today's Questions: Will you try this version of waistband or do you like the waistband on the Hudson's as instructed? Do you hate inserting elastic into a waistband tube (after attaching the pants unit to the waist unit? How do you feel about the highly-ruched and tied waistband of the Hudson pants? Curious to know if I'm in a small camp of ruched waistband naysayers :-)

Productivity

So I was pretty productive on the weekend - despite the fact that things didn't go as planned. I finished the Indicum pullover. Here it is (still blocking):

I don't know why I'm so ambivalent about it. It's nicely made. It fits well - on the edge of tight but not so that it pulls. I embellished it with that cuff of pink above the corrugated rib on the sleeves. Perhaps this is one of those items I'm going to have to wear in order to appreciate. One thing's for sure, if it doesn't get worn, then off to a new home it will go.

As you know, I also completed a pair of Hudsons in black sweatshirting (with rib cuffs and waistband). I've worn them constantly (at home) since the minute I serged the final seam. Can I just say - and I know this is shocking - cuffed, fleece-lined sweatpants are INSANELY warm. I had no idea that yoga pants are so ineffectual in this respect.

I also used some of my new Fabrications order (have I said I love those people - and now they're having a 25% sale!) to construct a kimono sleeve top that looks like nothing on a dress form or the floor:

FWIW, I took a bunch of photos of myself wearing it and not one was usable. The lighting here is miserable right now...

The top is based on Simplicity 3302 (the vintage kimono/Dolman sleeved top that I snatched from the edge of disaster, first time I made it, by attaching a self-drafted skirt to the bottom - and shaving off lots of volume). Turns out that it works well in its own right when you shave off even more volume through the waist and arms - like tons - and add a 3 inch double fold cuff that acts as a waistband. There's not much of the original sizing or styling in this vintage pattern given my extensive alterations. The only original elements are the basic shell of the pattern (the starting off point) and the shoulder proportions (which were very good from the get go). They do say that shoulder sizing is the only thing that matters...

I used a grey ponte with a very soft hand (and almost fleecy interior) and, while I like it a lot, it's a bit heavy (feels more like a chic yoga topper than kimono top for work-rotation). Mind you, in the right light-weight, drapey fabric I suspect that this pattern may become a new everyday TNT*. I'm very glad I sorted out the proportions of this vintage style. It was originally devised for a woven fabric, which is no doubt the primary reason that I've had to cut so much width from the original. I'm really grateful that I have the technical skill (not that this was complicated), the design-sensibility and fit awareness to create a modern version of a vintage top that's perfect for my shape. That's an extremely satisfying outcome. I love that I didn't need to look at directions as I made this. I fitted as I went.

Additional mods determined by this wearable muslin:

• I will make the waistband (cuff) @6 inches in length next time - I'll offset this (and improve a delicate proportion) by removing 1/2 inch of length from the blousey bodice.

• I will remove a small amount of additional underarm width from the back piece.

• I'll remove a bit more width from the bodice (respecting that it is a blousey cut).

• I'll open the neckline up slightly - but not much. I love a high crewneck. So old school!

• I'll raise the bust dart by 1/4" (how often does that happen?!)

Once I implement these final alterations, and adjust the fabric, I sense that this will be a truly chic, modern take on a vintage standard.

So, whatcha think? Do you like the Indicum pullover? Can you see potential in the kimono top? I want to know!

*Happily, I purchased another 6.5 yards on sale from Fabrications (which also gives me a 15 dollar coupon to use against a future purchase in November, should I, ahem, choose to buy again next month). So... I've got lots of fabric coming that should fit the bill.

An Update on The Hudson Pants

OK, I've made 3 pairs of these and I really should do a tutorial on my version of the waistband. It's completely flat, there are no stitches visible on the front. The wrong side is tasteful (though there's no getting away from one row of zig zag stitching).

I have refined the sizing now on each version. I've been working with very stable fleece (sweatshirting) so I'm pretty sure that these mods will be workable on a ponte or knit that has a higher degree of stretch.

My main change: I keep making them smaller. At this point I've cut a 6. I started with a 10.

I'd love to tell you that my reasoning for this is that I've become so outrageously slender that I just cannot fit into a larger size. The truth: These things are cut very large. Like, go down a size at least.

Provisos:

• These really are drafted with my shape in mind. If you muslin them, and you find it's a bad match, then you've got to work with your own scenario. The pattern suits my body almost perfectly with no shape mods. How often have you heard me say that?

• I have not included the pockets. I don't feel the need. Maybe when I make a ponte version I'll feel differently, but I don't see the point in bulk near my abdomen. Note: I have RTW fleece sweatpants, with pockets and the fit is very slim and not bulky. If I could find the fabric they used to make these, I would buy the factory. Alas, what I've got to work with, while soft and nice, does not have the hand or drape of the RTW version. That's why I spend 100 bucks on the store-bought ones...

• I'm not trying to hide anything so a slender cut is not problematic. My body type tends towards slim, proportioned and toned legs. If you are concerned about cellulite or lumps and bumps then you might want to cut a larger size to start. And, natch, work with a thicker knit with less stretch. 

• I've recut the waistband and I'm using a totally different insertion technique. I don't know to what extent this impacts size. I sense, not much, since I've cut down every part of the pants (over the course of making them 3 times) - not simply the waist.

I don't think I'm going to make these with fleece again (unless I find some with the perfect hand). Fleece makes a fine, authentic finished product but it's not chic - it's functional. I want some drape in my next version.

If you've made the Hudsons, what's been your experience of size and shape? Let's catalogue.

Some Actual Sewing, If You Can Believe It

Today, I abandoned all plans. I'm actually sewing without a plan. Like, that's the plan.

I also decided that I couldn't be motivated - under any circumstances - to pre-fit whatever I sewed. So I sewed a) without a plan and b) according to some abstract shape that might or might not be mine. (And really, what's the likelihood that it would be mine.)

All in all, it worked out amazingly well:

Yeah, I made sweatpants - but they're CHIC sweatpants...

I didn't follow any of the directions and I went off-road with the pattern. And you would be correct, that waistband stitching sucks...

For starters, I almost didn't show you photos of these completed True Bias Hudson Pant because they are rather crappily top stitched. Part of the reason for this is that I was making things up as I went along. I don't want a string-tie to highlight the thickest part of me. I don't need pockets (same deal). So it messed with the waistband and hence the sewing-flow. But whatevs. Look on, if you will. I'm keeping it real.

A note about what I changed at the waist: I actually opted to stitch the elastic into the waistband before I put the waistband on the pants. Next time, I may stitch down only on the wrong side (leave the band open as I ease the elastic into the inside of the waistband) then fold over the top (which won't move) and then sew that unit into the pants. It will give the waist a more finished look and I won't have to care quite as much about how straight the stitching is. Also, I really hate zigzag stitch. It always looks rookie. Keep in mind, if you choose to try this - you'll need to keep the length of your pants waist fairly close to that of the elastic and the waistband fabric. A bit of easing is fine, but the 3 plus inches (to shirr the waistband) would not fly.

A note about what I did re: pockets: Remember (as I did not) that if you don't sew the pockets, you'll need to add paper onto the front outer hip (to give it the regular curve pants have at the hip). I ended up having to create a fake piece and stitched it on cuz I'd already cut my fabric when I realized my mistake. I actually like the look. If you do this - ensure that you include a seam allowance on the part that attaches to the pant front. You could do this wedge in a contrast fabric but I don't like that look because it seems like the inside fabric of your pocket is pulling out. These faux pockets actually look pretty real when you're wearing them. Contrast thread would probably give them a bit more pop.

Of course, I ended up fitting in numerous (though remarkably small) ways:

• I cut the 10 because my fabric only had 50% stretch. Note: The pattern explains how to determine the appropriate stretch, which it calls "40%". In actually fact, you want a 4 inch swatch to stretch to 7 inches - which is 75% stretch. I know there's been some debate about this but I don't buy it. I think the instructions are erroneous (although the explanation is excellent so it doesn't cause any problems). I should have cut the size 8. No one's talked about whether these pants fit big or small - I think they fit generously, even if you use a fabric with less stretch than is called for.

• Now, the reason I think they fit generously - and the reason I could make a totally wearable muslin of these with nary a change to the original pattern (though I did change it as I went) - is because it's drafted for a slim-legged frame with proportional hips and derriere. If pants fitting is your nightmare because your hips and legs are proportionately large, these are probably not the pants for you.

• They are supposed to fit a 5'5" frame. I'm 5'3" and the legs were way too short. I've added an inch for the next go, but I might decide to add 2. I like slouch above the ankle cuff. Admittedly, my legs are long for my frame, but I think that most peeps are going to have to add.

• My other changes were made by cutting the pattern back down to a size 8 (incrementally). I went to a 6 in the front crotch depth and waist. So these pants are cut for someone pretty straight.

• The waistband elastic and corresponding waistband are too large (my fault - I overestimated how much room I'd need). Of course, this makes them ideal for sleeping in. Anyway you slice it, there's way too much ease in the waistband piece, IMO. A bit of shirring can be nice in a waistband. But I think the amount the pattern calls for would add a lot of bulk and make it very tricky to ease. Keep in mind, I did my own thing so you may disagree if you followed the original pattern.

What I Like:

• Well they're cut for someone with my body type...

• The crotch depth and curve are quite well-drafted - especially the back piece which has more of an L cut than a J cut. This works better for those with some fullness in the mid-derriere.

• The instructions would be good, I sense. They're clearly written. I just didn't follow them because a) I know how to put together pants and b) I went rogue with the waist.

• These pants are remarkably on-trend. You can spend 100 bucks at Roots, J Crew etc. to buy them. Why not make them for 10 bucks and call it a day!

• My fussy teen is totally impressed. She wants me to make a pair for her next.

So, there you go. I will most definitely be making these again - and probably soon because the kid will bug me till I do. I just need to restock the fabrics and elastic.

Whatcha think of this pattern? If you've made it, what do you think of the sizing? I sure wished I could find someone who'd written about that before I cut these (not that it's the end of the world, by any means).