The Spring / Summer Sewing Capsule

I feel rather abnormal. I mean, usually, even if I'm exhausted, a weekend of extended sleeping and lying on the couch takes the edge off. Before I know it, I'm planning something - baking a pie, making some shampoo, sewing (remember that?), knitting a new garment, a long walk with errands, doing a me-tailored yoga practice...

Weirdly, it's taking all of my energy to stay somewhat engaged, and that just cuz I'm freaked out by apathy.

I decided those jeans I need to hem are going back to the store. They're too low-rise and I don't feel like spending half my life yanking them up over the puff-ball that is my lower abdomen. Not to mention that they cost 300 bucks. For 300 bucks jeans have got to be perfect.

I did finish that pair of striped (serious stash-busting) socks. I'll photo them soon and share some new feelings about striped socks. The short story is, just don't. Unless you really want to use up yarn in @25 gram increments, in multiple colours, why inconvenience yourself? Aren't socks about simple, wearable comfort?

This morning I went through my sewing cupboard to get a lay of the land. Given that I love buying fabric, I've got a bit of fun ahead of me this aft. Seems I don't have much in the appropriate yardages to accomplish any of my preferred projects. How does this always happen??

By preferred projects I mean this:

• Garments that are tried and tested (to some extent)
• Garments that I know I'll wear
• Garments that are comfortable
• Garments that I'm not going to have to mess with overly to make them fit

Here's what I've come up with so far. I can't say whether I'll get some mojo back and go on a tear, but I sense this is my plan until the reno starts, at which point all the sewing will be packed away till my house is done. Links point you to previous posts with pics...

Kristin Spring / Summer Sewing:

• Harper Jacket - I wear this at least once a week so I think I may have found my match for the insanely gorgeous cashmere double knit Mardel kindly gifted to me years ago. This fabric is fuchsia on one side and grey on the other. It's a true winter fabric so I won't lead with this garment, but it would be so nice to have it at my access in the fall.

• Who doesn't need a new, bespoke T shirt, made from one's personal sloper? I was hoping to make one of these using a remnant of electric blue bamboo in my stash but, given that I've only got 0.65 of a yard,  I'm going to have to shore it up with some extra from the store. Hope I can find the same bolt of fabric (or one, the colour of which, works as a match).

• Hudson Pants - I wear these at home constantly. They're perfect for sleeping. They're perfect for yoga. I've got some cylindrical, thick t-shirt fabric that would work for another pair, even if it's not exciting. Of course, I'm compelled to make these with my beloved French terry, so I'm likely to be investing in another yard of that...

• DKNY Dress (V1179) -  Lord, I've worn my 2 other versions of this dress into the ground, despite the fact that my workmanship left much to be desired. I could use a striped jersey in my stash (bought ages ago from Blackbird Fabrics) but I'm likely to hedge my bets and replace some of my modal or bamboo from Shu Ching. If I can find the same bolts, I can maximize the remnants I still have in my stash.

• V8323 Very Easy Vogue Top - This is the one I haven't quite cracked (though I've made NUMEROUS muslins). Gonna buy myself a bit more nice fabric to give it one more go. I know I keep saying I've had it with this (after 6 toiles?!) but I see its potential and I've worked so hard to re-draft the pattern such that it can work for my narrow, short and curvy frame.

• Another sleeveless version of V8790. Turns out I do have a fabric in my stash to make this one. It's the fun floral (see Jalie 2921 top in that link) that Gillian and I both bought (and which she gifted me her remnants of). Added to my remnants, it's enough to make this top. Given that I didn't love the construction process last time, I do hope I find a sanguine way, going forward.

I'm bummed that these aren't more exciting but I've got to stick to the straight and narrow right now. There's just too much afoot - and my body shape is too in flux - to go on a tailoring resurgence this spring. My goal is to make these items fit so gorgeously - in such lovely fabrics - that they'll thrill even if they're aren't new-to-me patterns. And I do intend to supplement with RTW. When one's all over the map, try-and-buy is the way to go.

Summer Sewing: A Jacket and Another Dress

I've got good news and less good news and I'm going to take the initiative to lead with the less good cuz why not get it over with? I remade the Hepworth dress, that which served as the backbone of the Appalachian milkmaid bridesmaid dress (made for my sister last year). I did it as I said I would, in contrasting fabric skirt/bodice, the bodice being stretch Japanese dot cotton and the skirt a great rayon denim in dark blue.

Let me say, my workmanship is stellar. Honestly, I could wear this thing inside out and it would look good. I used beautiful fabric, the properties of which I predicted fairly well. I took my time (well, the fucking pattern gave me a run for my money and it took 10 hours over 2 days). Point is, I had nowhere I had to be so it was, ahem, relaxing. When something didn't work, I ripped it back and fixed it (Lord, the tedium). There are about 8000 steps to making this thing and it doesn't even have sleeves?!

In the end, I put it on my dress form to photo for y'all and I was SO underwhelmed, I couldn't stand it. Admittedly, it looks like shit on the dress form (the trajectory of my bust is not adequately duplicated, by it, to show off the perfectly fitted princess-seamed bodice and you know I'm not taking a picture of myself this week). But seriously, it's the most boring dress on the planet. Last time I made this (over 63 muslins and a version for my sister), I thought it was the materials and colour schemes that brought out its conservative side. But honestly, it looks almost as boring in my sassy black dot / dark denim combo and I don't know how it's possible. There's just something weak about the Hepworth. Don't misunderstand - it's well-drafted; it's a good pattern if you like "suburban traditional". For me, alas, there's no edge.

One other thing: The fit is good. I mean, I could certainly continue to refine it if I made it again (though why would I?). I managed to produce a woven dress (yeah, with 10 per cent stretch woven fabric, but still) that fits pretty darned well. Isn't that my holy grail (sort of)? But I've just spent 4 paragraphs talking about something I can't be bothered to show you. So let's call this the not so good news.

The good news is that I also made the StyleArc Harper Jacket for the third time and I've really got the hang of it this time. Literally. (I gave away the other two versions to people who liked them as I wasn't convinced about a) the fit on me or b) the finishing techniques.)

One jacket 3 ways!

Open - which is actually very pretty and drapey on a real person. It doesn't grip on me like it does on the fabric dress form. Trust me, it's flattering.

Half-closed - I've opted to use the interior closure to show you this version (but you could do it either way)

Fully closed - this version has an interior eye (attached to the seam allowance on the right shoulder) and an exterior one (that pokes through the seam allowance on the left side). Both hooks are on the edges of the tails of the cardigan jacket.

 In case you want to see how the interior closure works, here you go:

The eye is attached to the seam allowance and the hook reaches up to hang from it. If you finish the seams, you can stitch the hooks directly onto the seam allowances at the bodice hem (where it meets the centre front) and you won't need to bother with the fabric patch (designed to rest over the top of the finished area to conceal the stitched closure). At least I think that's what it's supposed to do.

Note that I can't confirm this is how it's supposed to work. I find StyleArc instructions practically useless and their photos inevitably confuse me but I think this is what they were getting at.

The back:

A lot of peeps have indicated that they don't like the jacket closed for themselves but I find it very flattering and practical. I made this for Irish weather (which is apparently 16 degrees and partially cloudy, pretty well constantly).

Unfortunately you can't see how pretty the fabric is in real life. I got it for 10 bucks a metre (half price) at FabricLand. (It was one of the pieces I had to buy twice because I confused it for another material I needed 0.5 a metre of and, if I hadn't bought more, I'd only have had half a metre of it to work with). It's got great drape but it's really structured. And the colour is rich. This garment looks expensive, which is just how I like 'em.

On the topic of fit. I've written about this jacket on a number of occasions. Here you can see how it was originally way too long and big, but on the second go round (scroll down to the stripey version contained within the same post), I was starting to get a sense of the right proportions for me. The Harper fits VERY large, out of the envelope. You should size down and then be prepared to make it smaller still if you're slim in the arms or narrow in the shoulders.

My latest version is more compact still. I made the arms and shoulders a little bit narrower, shortened the height of the armscye and finished all the seams (turned them under), which shortened the overall length by another half inch. The pattern instructs that you leave all of the seams unfinished. Look, I like a raw seam as much as the next girl, but the outcome of NO finishing is that it looks, well, unfinished, like something you made using a beginner pattern. If you're new to sewing (though not too new) - this is a great pattern as written. Otherwise, it's easy enough to turn under a seam. I agree that the seams are long (and it's hard to keep the topstitching entirely consistent) but it really clarifies what finishing actually does for a garment. There's not much to look at on this jacket so every detail counts.

At any rate, while this isn't my most gorgeous stitching (it's adequate, but not perfect), the fit and fabric are great, which is all anyone's going to care about. I'm glad I gave this one another go.

Thoughts or feelings? Have you made either of these garments? Do you like the Harper?

Crystalline Potential

OK, here it is 5:30 and this day has been full. What have I done so far? Well, I made the Bolognese sauce (smells awesome!), did yoga, sewed my second Harper jacket and took some photos. Oh, and now I'm writing a post.

Let's just say there's a glass of wine with my name on it. And while we're at it, get yourself one, cuz I have lots to say - with pics!

Look, I like both jackets but I much prefer my second version. Partly this is because I made it using a seriously revised pattern that came from the alterations I determined while sewing the first. Partly, I really just don't love the blue double knit with this garment.

Before I start with all the photos, please keep in mind it's practically the darkest day of the year. My walls, visible in the background, are not beige, peeps, they're yellow. It's impossible to see colour with accuracy (at least not with my gizmos and interest level). So with that in mind, know you're not getting the best view.

I'll also say - which I realize raises the question: Well why don't you model it, Kristin? - that this kind of garment is all about how it looks on a real human being. If I didn't look like a chia pet, if I felt more energetic (posing is all about energy for me), then I would. But seriously, I'm not in a selfie phase.

Harper Jacket 1 (Blue Double Knit):

Keep in mind, my shoulders are narrower than the dress form's. Even though it appears to fit the form, the top is a better fit for me. Also, see how much volume there is at the centre front? It's inches more than required.

I don't love the raw edges everywhere. That's what the pattern calls for but in my second version, I cover stitched a half-inch hem at the waist and sleeves. It still fit just fine because, depending on fabric, this thing is still going on an inch too long by my proportions.  I feel that these might be the right dimensions for a woven version of the jacket.

The left shoulder seam has an eye for the hook on the right centre front.

I'm always reminded of the terrible posture of my dress form. And it's kind of lopsided, somehow. That's all I can see in this pic. There's still quite a bit of volume in the waist and centre back. I could definitely take an inch or two out over all the seams.

And here's how it is with the clip. I think I was supposed to use 2 clips?! Anyway, I didn't see the need. I always tuck the inside fabric into my bra, discreetly. It's entirely invisible and totally stable. I don't like it closed as much as open...

Harper Jacket 2 (Grey and Blue Striped Jersey):

Showing how it looks in 2 different lights...

I took 1.5 inches off each centre front and it improved things dramatically. Little frames don't need all that volume. I'd totally be able to close it, had I put in the hooks and eyes, but I didn't see the need. I can tuck one corner into the side of the bra at the front shoulder, should I so desire. I swear, it doesn't look weird because the open side falls over that area - but you have to wear an open neck top, natch, nothing higher than a low crewneck.

I also finished the seams (except on the centre front). I came up with a work around for the unfinished seam at the neck (don't want to fold under because that would affect the drape of the centre front and add bulk at an already bulky area. I just decoratively serged that section (the span from shoulder seam to shoulder seam at the neckline) and afterwards, top stitched the lower side of the seam around the back neck over the serged line (on the other/WS side of the fabric). Make sure the serged or raw or turned under edge is lower than pre-stitched neck seam. Then you'll be sure to cover the unsightly neck-meets-shoulder-seams unit. To make it look organic, I also stitched around the same side (back) of the shoulder seam. That adds to the stability of the garment which is especially relevant when made from a fabric having this little structure.

I used a lot of the fusible interfacing strips that Sunni at A Fashionable Stitch sells. That stuff is SO useful for everything and easy to apply. It's not the strongest knit interfacing but it seems to do the trick.

This Harper took me half the time of the other - and I had to seam match (which adds time). I'm starting to feel more comfortable with that process. It's not that hard. Just cut each piece separately from the RS of the fabric, starting with the RS of the pattern facing up. When you cut the second piece, use the first as a template, turned upside down, over a matched part of the fabric. Cut and you have 2 pieces, right side together, one on top of the other.

This fabric was slightly harder to control than the double knit but I found it easier to work with, somehow, perhaps because it's more manipulable. Can I just say how much I love this design with a stripe? Look at how pretty those bias stripes are. It was hard to match up the stripes because the fabric is limp. One side tended, inevitably, to stretch more than the other and, esp. with a serger (even going slowly) it's hard to attain perfection. Also, each piece is apt to be cut with slightly different tension which creates very small differences, all of which eventually add up.

A Final Word on the Pattern:

It's a stylish design, no question, but it's not unique in RTW. I actually think it was a bit clumsily designed. Unaltered, there's too much fabric everywhere. Unless you have a really broad back, I can't imagine you'd need it. Even then, size down. BTW, there's too much sleeve ease (which is stupid on a knit).

This pattern gave me a good starting point but I can tell you, the reason this will look chic on me is because I've made lots of changes and fit it to my body. I can see how someone could end up looking like she's wearing rags with all the extra ease, were she to use the wrong fabric.

I will definitely make it again. Sized for my proportions, it's quite flattering. Because I've got a narrow frame, small shoulders and small-ish arms, I don't look overly busty. I really don't recommend this fashion for women with broad backs or wide shoulders. Then, if you add to those things a large bust and short waist, the look can be boxy and unflattering. It's not for everyone (but then what is?).

So, whatcha think??

The Harper Jacket: More

OK, per Debbie's comment yesterday, here's what the technical drawing makes of the front piece:

And here's the end result of my alteration:

Ignore the bit of paper taped to the upper left (nr the armsyce). I altered the armscye and sleeve. When I do this, I keep the bits of paper I cut off until I'm sure I won't need them again...

To me those pieces look almost identical, and though I appreciate Debbie's thoughtful advice, I opted to start making the jacket using my diagonal alteration vs her suggested, straight-of-grain one. Seriously, I was up half the night debating the differences between our proposed methods. I really don't know if the impact is that great one way or another. Maybe this is one of those times that different alterations will work.

I'm happy with my choice re: drape, but I could have cut 2 inches off the centre front width of the front piece. There's more than enough fabric. A bit too much, IMO.

So, next time, I make that alteration.

And yeah, there will be a next time cuz I spent half the day altering every one of the pieces for the second time. The size 10 sleeve height is way to deep. The shoulder too wide. There's too much ease in the torso. Happily, I could work around these things it for the version I made today but the pattern pieces have to reflect my slice-and-dice. Honestly, I could have bought the 8 and it would still have been too long and wide everywhere except in the sleeve circumference. And every change I made was a little bit complex in the way my body is. See, grading between sizes wouldn't have worked. My issues are about depth, not width. I've only tried this one Style Arc pattern, but if it's anything to go by, the designs are for tall, long-waisted people. I'm very happy I've been putting in the time to learn how to fit because my clothing is SO much better for it. I can live with the current imperfections, given my inexperience. And, now, I have the chance to make a garment work for my proportions. Damn straight I'm making it again.

I am reminded - as with every time I take a break from sewing - that I am not fast. The top took 8 hours from start to finish. People, it's a 3-pattern-piece knit. Next time it will go twice as fast, I realize, but this time, I had to determine how to finish the seams and alter the fit. If you finish the seams the way the pattern instructs, it looks sloppy and homemade. I largely serged, but the back neck unit - while very easy to work - isn't neat. I ripped out a bunch of seams. I made alterations. I took my time. A a result, I like how it looks inside and out (more or less), though the neck is still a bit meh on the wrong side. (I''ll post pics tomorrow of both sides.) The instructions aren't fantastic. I mean, they're totally accurate, but they don't hold your hand. This designer assumes you're not an idiot.

I think I'd prefer the Harper made in a less structured fabric than the double knit. It's the thickest fabric I'd want to use on a garment like this. Effectively, I think of the pattern as a wrap-like sweater, not a jacket.

I'm trying to decide between a couple of other knit fabrics I have in the cupboard. One is a stripe-pattern fabric and the other textured. My concern is to ensure that they won't roll at the (raw) edges because many of the Harper edges are raw, and I don't want fabric that flips to expose the wrong side.

Anyway, more to come... 

In Which I Take Something Super Easy and Make It Slightly Less So

I suppose it could be worse. And the thing in question is the Harper Jacket pattern, so I'm likely to relate a couple of sewing stories over the next few days. (Those of you who can't bear to hear another thing about my knitting - score!)

OK, here's the pattern:

Style Arc Harper Jacket

It's one of those jackets-meets-sweater things that are incredibly useful in Canada. There's not a lot written about it, I have to say. I've only found one post (a very helpful one), but its writer is a woman who couldn't be more differently shaped than me. She seems quite tall and long in her proportions.

One of the fundamental differences between our efforts is that she actually lengthened the jacket. I, on the other hand (and being incapable of sewing anything out of the envelope, apparently), had to shorten each piece by 2 inches.

I made the size 10, which I was worried might be to small, but seriously, I think going up a size would have made the shoulder-width and arm circumference too large. This is not fitted below the high bust, so I qualify as a true "small" for the purposes of this pattern. I mean, I had to shorten everything even given it's a size 10?!

Note that I have no idea if I shortened the front piece (that weird looking one on the left) appropriately. Mind you, the shape of the finished piece is the same as the original was and I lined up the armsyces in order to ensure I made the same adjustment on the front as on the back piece. Here's hoping my "special sewing sense" is working. In order to true the front piece, once I messed with the length, I actually added 5/8" below the shorten line. You can see it on the right lower half. I had the option to true by removing fabric at the upper part of the piece, but given my full bust measurement, I felt I needed to add width below the shorten line rather than subtract width above it. A tape measure seems to corroborate this.

I could have taken more off the length of all of these pieces (like another inch) but I was afraid to go overboard. And besides, it's not like every first garment isn't a muslin. Don't kid yourself. It is. Hopefully, however, this one will be wearable in the end.

One of the ways in which I hope this pattern will work on my behalf - in the way it might NOT for a tall person who doesn't want to add bust volume - is that the length of the front piece dictates the amount of volume in the ruffles at the centre front. Wow, awkward sentence. Sorry.

What I mean is, when I shortened the piece, given the construction of the centre front, I removed some of the ruffleability (I believe) by removing inches of length. It remains to be seen if the result would be more pronounced (while still fitting my frame) if I'd removed width above the shorten line (see 2 paragraphs up). I guess this is where the muslin premise comes in.

Those armscyes look kind of long to me, but I measured them against another, well-fitting, similarly constructed RTW sweater and it seems its armsyces are almost the exact same depth. Hopefully I'm mistaken in my concern.

I really like the one-size pattern, gotta say. It's very clean. I don't love cutting around a zillion lines and I usually end up making similar adjustments to all of my patterns - none of which are facilitated by zillions of extra lines denoting other sizes. What I mean is, I don't get a lot of value from the multi-sized patterns because I don't really straight-grade from one size to another. Moreover, if I need to do so, I just make it up. I mean, those are linear adjustments that really are pretty straight forward.

Anyway, here's the fabric I'll use for the Harper Jacket:

It's a 2-way stretch double knit from Gorgeous Fabrics and it's got a nice drape and hand. I will say that the colour is in no way what my computer monitor led me to expect. It's lighter and less jewel-toned than I hoped it would be. But, since I'm not head-over-heels (and yet its properties align well with those required for this pattern - dense, firm knit with some heft but not so much that the drape will be inhibited), I feel free to use it and enjoy it for whatever result it yields. Don't misunderstand, it's a very nice fabric and I'm sure many sewists would find many uses for it. It's one of those knits, I suspect, that looks at its best in a finished garment. It would be really great as pants, I imagine.

So, there you go. What do you think? Have you made this jacket? Do my alterations seem like they'll work (those of you who can turn pics of paper into 3D objects in your mind)? Do you like it? Let's talk!