Sunday, October 5, 2014

An Update on The Hudson Pants

OK, I've made 3 pairs of these and I really should do a tutorial on my version of the waistband. It's completely flat, there are no stitches visible on the front. The wrong side is tasteful (though there's no getting away from one row of zig zag stitching).

I have refined the sizing now on each version. I've been working with very stable fleece (sweatshirting) so I'm pretty sure that these mods will be workable on a ponte or knit that has a higher degree of stretch.

My main change: I keep making them smaller. At this point I've cut a 6. I started with a 10.

I'd love to tell you that my reasoning for this is that I've become so outrageously slender that I just cannot fit into a larger size. The truth: These things are cut very large. Like, go down a size at least.

  • These really are drafted with my shape in mind. If you muslin them, and you find it's a bad match, then you've got to work with your own scenario. The pattern suits my body almost perfectly with no shape mods. How often have you heard me say that?
  • I have not included the pockets. I don't feel the need. Maybe when I make a ponte version I'll feel differently, but I don't see the point in bulk near my abdomen. Note: I have RTW fleece sweatpants, with pockets and the fit is very slim and not bulky. If I could find the fabric they used to make these, I would buy the factory. Alas, what I've got to work with, while soft and nice, does not have the hand or drape of the RTW version. That's why I spend 100 bucks on the store-bought ones...
  • I'm not trying to hide anything so a slender cut is not problematic. My body type tends towards slim, proportioned and toned legs. If you are concerned about cellulite or lumps and bumps then you might want to cut a larger size to start. And, natch, work with a thicker knit with less stretch. 
  • I've recut the waistband and I'm using a totally different insertion technique. I don't know to what extent this impacts size. I sense, not much, since I've cut down every part of the pants (over the course of making them 3 times) - not simply the waist.
I don't think I'm going to make these with fleece again (unless I find some with the perfect hand). Fleece makes a fine, authentic finished product but it's not chic - it's functional. I want some drape in my next version.

If you've made the Hudsons, what's been your experience of size and shape? Let's catalogue.

1 comment:

  1. i haven't made these yet, but it's good to hear they're working for you! i have a lt. grey (with beige undertones) cotton/modal/spandex french terry from girl charlee that i'll probably end up trying this pattern with. i actually hate the color of the fabric and i can't think of a single thing it will match in my closet, but i suppose i can consider it a muslin and call it a day. (long story short--i ordered two fabrics for specific projects and each fabric would work best for the other project... which means i get shafted on having a good pant color) i am curious about how you do your waistband, though i actually like the pattern as writ. i'm not a fan of zig zag topstitching, but i imagine i could run it on the coverhem instead. wish it were easier to find good fabric though!