Productivity

So I was pretty productive on the weekend - despite the fact that things didn't go as planned. I finished the Indicum pullover. Here it is (still blocking):

I don't know why I'm so ambivalent about it. It's nicely made. It fits well - on the edge of tight but not so that it pulls. I embellished it with that cuff of pink above the corrugated rib on the sleeves. Perhaps this is one of those items I'm going to have to wear in order to appreciate. One thing's for sure, if it doesn't get worn, then off to a new home it will go.

As you know, I also completed a pair of Hudsons in black sweatshirting (with rib cuffs and waistband). I've worn them constantly (at home) since the minute I serged the final seam. Can I just say - and I know this is shocking - cuffed, fleece-lined sweatpants are INSANELY warm. I had no idea that yoga pants are so ineffectual in this respect.

I also used some of my new Fabrications order (have I said I love those people - and now they're having a 25% sale!) to construct a kimono sleeve top that looks like nothing on a dress form or the floor:

FWIW, I took a bunch of photos of myself wearing it and not one was usable. The lighting here is miserable right now...

The top is based on Simplicity 3302 (the vintage kimono/Dolman sleeved top that I snatched from the edge of disaster, first time I made it, by attaching a self-drafted skirt to the bottom - and shaving off lots of volume). Turns out that it works well in its own right when you shave off even more volume through the waist and arms - like tons - and add a 3 inch double fold cuff that acts as a waistband. There's not much of the original sizing or styling in this vintage pattern given my extensive alterations. The only original elements are the basic shell of the pattern (the starting off point) and the shoulder proportions (which were very good from the get go). They do say that shoulder sizing is the only thing that matters...

I used a grey ponte with a very soft hand (and almost fleecy interior) and, while I like it a lot, it's a bit heavy (feels more like a chic yoga topper than kimono top for work-rotation). Mind you, in the right light-weight, drapey fabric I suspect that this pattern may become a new everyday TNT*. I'm very glad I sorted out the proportions of this vintage style. It was originally devised for a woven fabric, which is no doubt the primary reason that I've had to cut so much width from the original. I'm really grateful that I have the technical skill (not that this was complicated), the design-sensibility and fit awareness to create a modern version of a vintage top that's perfect for my shape. That's an extremely satisfying outcome. I love that I didn't need to look at directions as I made this. I fitted as I went.

Additional mods determined by this wearable muslin:

• I will make the waistband (cuff) @6 inches in length next time - I'll offset this (and improve a delicate proportion) by removing 1/2 inch of length from the blousey bodice.

• I will remove a small amount of additional underarm width from the back piece.

• I'll remove a bit more width from the bodice (respecting that it is a blousey cut).

• I'll open the neckline up slightly - but not much. I love a high crewneck. So old school!

• I'll raise the bust dart by 1/4" (how often does that happen?!)

Once I implement these final alterations, and adjust the fabric, I sense that this will be a truly chic, modern take on a vintage standard.

So, whatcha think? Do you like the Indicum pullover? Can you see potential in the kimono top? I want to know!

*Happily, I purchased another 6.5 yards on sale from Fabrications (which also gives me a 15 dollar coupon to use against a future purchase in November, should I, ahem, choose to buy again next month). So... I've got lots of fabric coming that should fit the bill.

And There's Knitting Too...

I'm making progress with my second version of the Indicum pullover.

I wish I'd noticed that patch of light when I was photographing this...

It looks very straight though there's a differential of 2 inches between the bust, waist and hips. The thing is that this yarn is SO spongy that it obscures it. I actually think that Quince Finch might be too spongy and a bit robust for this sweater - though I'm reserving judgement till this is made and blocked. Pre-blocking, it feels a bit like it's wearing me.

Then, there's the matter that I really just don't know my thoughts on corrugated rib (the kind of 2-toned ribbing at the hem and neck. It's weird and, while I know it will block flat, it does like to roll (which drives me nuts). I know I've said this before. I think I may be erring towards not liking it (even though it does make for some cool colourwork).

The yarn, I've come to realize is a very pink version of brown, which is why the pink accents are great. But I don't know if I like the tone.

Hmmm... It's not looking good for this one at the moment. Wish us both luck :-)

So Many Things To Say About Knitting (And Something for Everyone!)

For starters, here's what I've decided to knit (for the second time):

Indicum Pullover by Hilary Smith Callis

I made it about a year ago and the only thing I don't like about it is the yarn I used. Remember this stuff? Um, it pills like a bitch and the colour scheme is iffy. Honestly, I've never experienced yarn that is more pill than stitch.

Please tell me (because I'm feeling a bit concerned) that this colour combo is going to channel a totally different vibe than my last version:

My circular swatch in Quince Finch... (I realize it doesn't look like a tube here...)

These are the colours I'll use:

Finch in Petal

Finch in Twig

It's been months since I've knit with wool?! I've been working with cotton/bamboo, linen, silk... It feels utterly odd to have pure wool on the needles. People, wool is SO SPRINGY! I mean, it recovers like a coil, not that it's in any way reminiscent of spring, alas.

What is it with me and the browns, when it comes to this sweater. I'm not really into brown, though I do feel that the cool pink of the petal offsets it beautifully and I also don't think of Twig as a brown. It's more like a mushroom tone so let's call it a true neutral.

I bought this yarn specifically to remake the Indicum and, it occurred to me, if I really don't want to reinvent the wheel (aka spend a lot of time fitting), I should do what I aimed to. Hilariously, my knitting tension has changed so much in the last year, I might as well be knitting a different sweater.

About Knitting Tension (which is so dependent on other factors)...

What factors are these? Well, namely knitting style and (weirdly) needle length. I'm not speaking of the gauge of the needle, but of the proportions of needle to cable (I always work with circulars) and the length of that cable. The shorter the cable in relation to the work, the tighter the gauge - at least for me.

Y'all know I switched up my knitting style last year. I now flick (a right-handed method that maximizes efficiency of movement) rather than throw (regular British-style wherein ones right hand leaves the needle to wrap the yarn). It's impossible for me to quantify this (cuz I haven't bothered), but I'd estimate my speed has increased in the degree of 30%. This method is also so ergonomic that I rarely experience any muscular tension as a result of long knitting sessions. I highly recommend it!

Of course, knitting methods are as individual as the knitters who use them. I say, give a knitter some needles and yarn, and you'll see every method you could have (or couldn't have) imagined in your wildest dreams.

I have tried Continental (left-handed) knitting a few times and, while I can swing the knit stitch (with weird tension) the purl stitch continues to elude me. Mind you, I've got a great groove going with flicking.

However, my knitting has gone from uber-loose to, um, in the realm of moderate-tight. I've been knitting with very slippery yarns this summer so the full impact of my tighter gauge did not make itself known till I made the swatch (above).

Last time I made this sweater, I didn't get gauge on the recommended needle size (my stitches were larger / the sweater would be looser). This time, I've had to go up a needle size - and I still wont' get gauge, cuz my stitches are relatively tighter than the recommended gauge. That's a pretty bizarre shift.

In order to ensure I'm going to get the size I need - and the fabric I prefer - I may actually have to knit on a larger needle than recommended?! Given that I'm the girl who usually goes down 2 needle sizes to approach recommended gauge, that's bizarre. In general, I do prefer my new tension - it creates a more knowable finished product and one the fabric of which appeals to me more. But it's never helpful to be at either extreme. I suppose this could be a momentary thing?

About That Swatch (Above) and How New Knitting Styles Facilitate My Work:

The swatch above shows double-stranded knitting (colour-work). Those who can work 2 colours of yarn do so in a variety of ways. Previously, because I threw the yarn (hand comes off the needle) and I couldn't work in both left-handed and right-handed styles, my only recourse was to drop one colour strand when I'd pick up another (all done with right hand in throwing style). However, when I learned to flick (and the hand doesn't leave the needle), I realized that I was half way to being able to work both colours without having to drop one strand. Alas, it involved learning how to Continentally knit (left-handed, hand doesn't leave the needle) for one yarn strand while flicking, for the other yarn strand.

The net result is that each strand of yarn is worked by a different hand, to improve efficiency. (FWIW, it takes a long time to pick up and drop each strand (my former way)... And it's SUPER fussy.)

But seriously, to knit 2 ways at the same time, with two different threads, takes a wholesale shift in brainwaves. You really have to stop thinking and just work.

Long story longer, I can produce a knit stitch (though not well) with my left hand but I still cannot purl left-handedly. I can, however, purl with my right hand (happily I can do it all with my right hand). To clarify, most of the time, when one does colour-work, one knits only. You tend to work in stockinette stich, in the round, so all the stitches are knit stitches. However, this sweater's colour-work is in RIB, specifically K2, P1. So, in creating the fabric I have to knit with one hand and purl with the other. Yes, it is harder and I can't choose which hand I'd prefer to do which action. Currently, I can only purl right-handedly and knit left-handedly.

I know that flicking has facilitated my ability to perform colour-work in a new style because the way one holds the yarn in the right hand, while flicking, is not dissimilar to the way one holds the yarn in Continental-style. So my brain has developed some plasticity which I'm applying to my (much less amenable) left hand. I can see a time when I might be able to do Continental knitting quite well.

So, that's today's news. What do you think of the colours I'm using for the Indicum? What do you think of the Indicum? How do you perform colour-work? Let's talk!

This Is One of Those Posts That Goes Everywhere...

Just in time for "Snowstorm 2013!" (bish plz), I finally finished the next pair of socks:

Weird how the browns (caramel and khaki) are inverted between the two socks, yes? BTW, not one to pass by a gizmo, those are my new sock blockers. Truly, handmade socks dry in 30 minutes on those things. I'm not saying I intend to hand wash my socks, but if I must wear them between machine loads, it's good to have options.

Upon finishing these, it occurred to me that I was without a knitting project. (Note: Between muslin 3 of the suit jacket, and a couple of other sewing quick wins - to be discussed in my next post - that I started prepping for before I got my current bug, I have less than no business considering new knitting. But there you go. This post isn't about showing you my practical streak.)

The great thing about being sick in the modern era is that, as long as the Advil is working, you can absorb yourself in the internet. My evening was spent, under blankets, watching reruns of Law and Order (I've spent basically 6 weeks bedridden since Sept. and I've yet to re-watch a rerun in that time. What is up with that?) and doing "research".

Full disclosure: Brooklyn Tweed's latest look book just came out and I could not stop myself from purchasing some e-patterns and yarn. So, technically, when this arrives, I will have a new project.

Moreover, I totally love these:

Ooooh, pretty colours! This scarf is actually a flattened tube so the stranding is hidden.

I really have a thing for the flowy, oversized, convertible cardigan, people. I decided that, if I like working with the BT yarn on the shawl, I will invest in some to make this cardigan.

OK, back to the point of this all, my next project...

I have stash yarn, though not in large volumes, with the exception of this:

Malabrigo Finito (fingering weight)

It's the stuff I bought, in a fit of sickness-consumerism last fall, from Habu. In truth, I never would have purchased it if I had seen it up close. It's a bizarre mulberry-meets-pink-meets-dirt. And it's hella variegated, IMO.

It's actually been tormenting me a bit. I tell myself I will not buy more stash until I use it. Each time I look at my stash, it follows me with its gaze. Side note: I also keep telling myself I'm done with fingering weight for a while and then I decide to make fingering weight shawls and socks. So, apparently, I'm an indecisive wreck.

Anyway, I have no ability to leave this house right now. While I am very happy to report that the fever and chills have abated (knock on something pls.), my cough sounds CDC-worthy and I have the energy of a slug. (Other side note: It occurs that the yarn is vaguely slug-coloured. Hmmm...)

What's a girl to do but to choose her next project on the basis of the yarn she already has in her hands?

I used the Ravelry search feature, typed in the amount of yarn I had to knit, the weight of it, and then I waited (a millisecond) to see what thousands of options would be open to me. Intriguingly, of 2000-odd choices, the only one that seemed to work with my yarn (knowing what I do of it) is this one:

Indicum Pullover by Hilary Smith Callis

Intriguingly, the designer is she of the Kimono Wrap Cardigan, my very first project. (BTW, the link feature just fucked up again, so no more links in this post...)

Now, here's the punchline - if I haven't lost you in one of the preceding 63 storylines: This sweater has stranded colour work.

Hilarious, yes? It's like the universe is colluding with Gillian?! It's only in the corrugated ribbing bands at the sleeves, hem and neck (see the pretty contrast colour woven into the rib?) - and I didn't realize it until I'd purchased the e-pattern / got myself all set. Otherwise, I can assure you, I would have removed it from my cart.

The other punchline is that I appear to be making yet another fingering-weight sweater on the heels of a fingering-weight sweater that made me decide to swear off fingering-weight sweaters. But really, that's a bit "standard-issue Kristin".

Here's the fun bit. I used that colour work book I just bought and managed to figure out, fairly easily, how to do the stranding. I'm only using my right-hand for this because it's knit/purl stranding. Much stranding is done in the round so that it only requires knit stitch. I will be knitting this in the round and, yet, making the float on a purl stitch. I realize, this is super-boring if you've no interest in colour work, but the gist is, it hasn't tested my ability to knit Continental-style at the same time as British-style (one strand of yarn in each hand), an ability I strongly question. I guess, as with everything, only time will tell. BTW, the contrast colour I'm using is the slate-grey (with purple undertones) cashmere of the Princess Jumper.

Now I've worn up a day's worth of energy writing this and it's time to retire with some Law and Order. But please do comment on whatever element of this post might catch your fancy. Which pattern do you like the best? How do you find corrugated rib colour work? Have you ever knit a sweater in a shade of "slug"? Do you like the socks? Let's talk.