2015 Fall Capsule Collection: Self-Drafted Kimono Sleeved Dress

You'll have to take my word for it that I got somewhere with the kimono dress today. I'm not quite there yet, technically, but I finished the garment a few minutes ago.

What's wrong? Well, it doesn't fit in just the same way that the last one didn't (but less severely, given that I did make the pattern bigger before constructing this version). Part of my problem is that I didn't quite understand where the fit issue was. I mean, I knew it, but I didn't get it. I don't so much need the size increase at the waist circumference (though a bit of that was useful) - but to increase the circumference notably at the high hip / lower abdomen where all my fat is. (Part of me feels it would be polite to temper my terms but, really, I'm not one for that - it's fat.)

So I've now revised the pattern again to give an extra inch in that zone (culling a bit at the actual waist).

What does this mean for the current version which is, frankly, beautifully made and FREAKIN' gorgeous to behold in every way (except, perhaps on me)? A couple of things. Scott noted that it's great everywhere but in the lower ab zone (which he doesn't feel is as dismal as I do). He suggested Spanx, which really didn't endear him to me, but also reminded me that I'm at my uber-bloat moment of the month. So I'm going to let sanity prevail for a bit and confirm that this is not a wearable garment later on.

Of course, I'm confident it's not a wearable garment. So I'm planning ahead. I've decided my best option is to cut off the current skirt (might be able to get a T shirt out of it?) and try again. Of course, that also means I'll have to buy another 0.66 yards of fabric. I need 24 inches, or exactly 2/3 of a yard.

A few other thoughts:

• No question, this bamboo is clingy. I don't mean that it's too clingy, but it does like to grab (which means I can't be skimpy when I use it). I used the peacock blue and it's just as gorgeous to sew with, look at and to feel as the grey stuff. But it's less forgiving because it's bright freakin' blue. To wit: If I'd sewn this in black, I'm pretty sure I would be able to wear it as is.

• The bamboo produces stunning drape. You know those jersey pieces you find in fancy stores that cost hundreds of dollars?  It's made with shit like this. I cannot overstate my hard-won perspective that high-quality (which inevitably translates into expensive) fabric is the way to go. Seriously, if you have to sew fewer things to use quality fabric, then sew fewer things. If I had tons of extra cash lying around, I'd start a little program wherein I'd give 2 yards of awesome jersey fabric to anyone who wanted it. I'd pay for the shipping and everything (cuz money would be no object) and everyone would participate and agree with me. What? It's my fantasy public program. Everyone would agree.

• This pattern is pretty close - when I fix the lower ab issue, it'll likely be a great staple because it can be made in all kinds of knit fabric (terry!) for different appeal. 

• You'll notice I haven't dwelt on the bodice (my usual area of constant chatter) because the fit is great! I have a lot of luck with kimono/dolman/cut on sleeves. I think it's because of my narrow shoulder, slim arm combo - that offsets the boob issue I often have. This bodice has bust darts (unsual for knit patterns, IMO) which improve fit all the more.

All in all, I'm not unhappy about this outcome. I've refined a pattern that needed work (but really benefited from it). I've got a dress pattern that is unique, flattering (in the main) and duplicable. FYI, there's also a top-only version of this that I do intend to make again in drapier fabric...

I'll aim to get back to my new fave store for more fabric before the weekend. Hopefully I'll be able to update this and make 3 or 4 other garments next (long) weekend. We'll have to see.

Today's question: Have you ever had a fitting blind spot? You know - not your normal "trouble area" but something that emerges and throws you a bit for a loop?

Updated: Sunny Knit Top: An Interim Perspective

Updated: OMG, I finished the second version and it is fucking awesome. My self image is only marginally enhanced because my kid is actually wearing hers (the grey one in bamboo jersey described below). I offered it to her (expecting the usual rebuff), her eyes got big like saucers and she snatched it from my hands. I don't recall a thank you. I dare anyone to turn down fabric that feels like this.

In brief, the French terry is also perfect for my Sunny top - not just because I basically redrafted the pattern, but because it's very slim, drapey terry. I'm going to post a photo of me wearing this (shocking, I realize) because its real success is in its fit on me. That'll have to wait till I recover from the post-sewing glow.

I can't say I'd recommend this pattern. I actually think it's a pretty tough sell right out of the envelope. But I've come to see all patterns as road maps. I'm never going to simply cut and sew. What's the difference if I make subtle or broad-stroke edits as long as the fit works in the end?
________________________________________________

OK, a propos of yesterday's proposed or actualized alterations, here's what I can tell you:

• My bamboo jersey is a fucking dream. My sewing machine isn't nuts about hemming thin rayon jersey (unless I knit-stay tape it, which sometimes messes with the fit or drape). This stuff hems, serges, washes, dries and looks spectacular.

• As such, it's too bad my first version isn't wearable for me. Don't misunderstand, it's wearable but I've got to the point that I can't stand fit imperfections. I'd just rather start again. So happily this version is going to the kid (who knows good shit when she sees it). I may be the only person I know who muslins with 22 dollar a yard fabric but seriously, when I get it right - I want to do it in the fabric I'll eventually wear, to know that I've called all of the variables. Can't say I'd take this kind of hit on large yardages, but on a yard and a half, I'm living on the edge (at least for the moment).

• I chose not to mess with the sleeve, as a means by which I might impact armscye length, and I'm glad. Sometimes you're wise to realize a garment before you continue to tinker with it. In this instance, the sleeve's alright. BTW, it is on the tight side - esp. if one has large bones or the arms aren't the slenderest zone. But I'm on the small-boned, slender-armed side of the equation and, with fabric having 50% stretch, there's more than enough space for me. I wouldn't make the arms narrower, but I wouldn't expand the circumference.

So what constitutes imperfection?

• I opted not to fix the back length in the bodice and it was a big mistake. I've now altered the back bodice such that there's 1.5 inches less fabric at the mid back length tapering to nothing at the side seams. That makes the horizontal "waist" seam hang level given that my boobs are using up the front length that I don't need on the back bodice. It also removes a massive pool of fabric that looks pretty meh on my body. The impact on the look of the pattern piece is that it's become almost straight at the hem, rather than maintaining the original curve.

• I've added an inch of width to the skirt hem circumference to give a bit more room in the hip. It's not strictly speaking necessary but this jersey likes to cling and I'm looking for a soft-fall at the hip. Using other fabrics, this might not be a requirement.

• But it's always good to include one crazy-ass, experimental alteration: I've removed fabric from the front bodice, below the full bust by creating, on each side, a vertical dart that stops at the bodice hem. This is to remove excess fabric in the midsection that really isn't doing me any favours. Here's the thing, I smushed out the darts (using some, ahem, intuitive method that involved cutting into the paper above the dart and smoothing things out to prevent three-dimensionalness of the pattern). Each "dart" is 1 inch wide. I don't know the impact of this which is why it's high on drugs that I've cut that French terry for the next version, using the altered piece. I'm a risk-taker. What can I say?

What was right about my first muslin? Quite a lot, actually.

• I called it on the removal of width. It raised the arm, shortened the length and improved the fit of the shoulder. It also removed an absurd amount of girth throughout the bodice and skirt which would have been really unattractive. Saves a lot of fabric too.

• The crew neck is good, though I did have to recut the fabric and pattern, mid-sewing, as my first version was too tight to get over my head?!

I had enough of the navy French terry (1.25 yards) to use it for the next version, which I hope to complete this afternoon. Not bad when you can get an oversized garment out of 1.25 yards of fabric - albeit fabric that's a good 50" wide. It's true that I don't know whether the drape and weight of the terry will be optimal. I think it will be, but it is stretchier (and has less tight recovery) than the bamboo. I guess that's the joy of cozy softness. I may have to start pulling out a bid of width at the seams and the final version may not suit the look I'm going for, but I won't know till I try.

I can't say that my version looks like the other Sunnys I've seen. Mine may be more of an homage - same lines, different proportions. Nonetheless, that's why we sew, right? To make the garment fit our needs - not the other way around.

Stay tuned...

2015 Fall Capsule Collection: Sunny Knit Top Alterations

Here's the difference that some very simple - if very substantial - alterations can make:

StyleArc Sunny Knit Top - Size 10 UNALTERED (out of "envelope" as it were)

StyleArc Sunny Knit Top - Originally Size 10 (rather substantively altered)

What you may notice is that the pieces look largely unchanged, shape-wise. Regrettably, in the original photo (unaltered) I positioned the tunic "skirt" upside down so what you're looking at doesn't seem consistent over both photos. Trust me, the only difference shape-wise, in the skirt, is the angle of the side seam (which is much straighter in my new version).

The original pattern is 58" in circumference - reflecting itself in width and length and yielding a drop shoulder of what I assume to be ridiculous proportions. Never mind what fabric I might use to make an unaltered version, it would look like over-sized crap because there's just to much fucking "over" in this over-sized pattern, IMO.

What Did I Do?

• I removed 4 inches of width from the centre front, vertically, from top to bottom. The net impact is that it shortens the shoulder as well as diminishes extreme over-sizedness.

• I recut the neckline (which was messed up by the narrowing) but made it less wide on the shoulder top (i.e. more crew than boat). Narrow shoulders and boat necks don't get along. If you are slight of shoulder (if they slope or they're chubby), then stay away from the boat, as I'm sure you've already surmised. Of course, do what you like from an aesthetic perspective (who am I to judge that?) but the annoyingness of your neckline approaching your shoulder near-constantly - especially if you get cold or have boobs - is enough to tax the staunchest small-statured, boat-neck lover.

• I took another 0.5 inch out of the side bodice from top to bottom, vertically, to "shorten the shoulder" and to remove excess size in the side zone.

• I did the same thing in the skirt but I left the original hip circumference (40") because that works well with my measurements.

• One thing I'm going to check, before cutting into the fabric, is that this is consistent with a couple of other "cocoon" (though on the slim end of that equation) sweaters I own.

• While the unaltered length is stated to be 27" (way longer than I need), somehow, likely because of my mods, my finished length is 24.5". I'll cut from the hem of the fabric, if necessary, to shorten further as I experiment with my first version. I don't know if  the "skirt-meets-bodice" seam is going to be in the right place but, remember, I have depth in my front chest and that takes up length.

• I'm considering taking an inch out of the length of the back-bodice (to compensate for the extra vertical length I require to work over my boobs). Not sure if I should muslin as is - just cuz I really don't know how this sort of alteration will play out in a finished garment of this style. 

• I'm also considering raising the armhole slightly. That would serve to shorten the side-garment further.

As you can see, I've cut 5 inches out of this pattern's girth and I don't know what the impact of this will be on a finished garment till after I make it. My seams align and I believe I've retained the original shape. But I'm a narrow, small-boned person who cannot be swathed in 1.5 metres of fabric without looking like a sloppy lump. I'd like this to be a casual, but elegant top. And I don't believe, between my dimensions and those of the unaltered pattern, that could occur, just out of the envelope.

Of course, I'll report back after I've made this, but I sense that this will require pretty serious downsizing for most anyone, unless tall and/or wide.

Anyway, thoughts or feelings? If you've made this, or if you're great at reading schematics and understanding exactly how something will look in the end, your feedback would be most welcome. Stay tuned.

2015 Fall Capsule Wardrobe: Still Tinkering

OK, give me 3 hours and I'll change it up. Whatever it is.

I've had the opp to read the very helpful comments on my last posts - namely the one wherein Anne recommends that I should consider making the Sunny knit top in a rather drapey fabric (on the basis of feedback from another sewist who's made and blogged about it). And if there's one thing I do it's take Anne's advice seriously. Fortunately, I'm sure I've got some rayon jersey lying around in the appropriate yardage - even if I have to mix and match a bit. I'm still not sure how the hell to alter that pattern to make it fit - though I suspect it will involve narrowing the pieces at the centre back. Might as well do a (wearable) muslin, no? I could just go buy more fabric!

The other thing that I remembered was this adorable pattern I've wanted to make since first I saw it. Zoe profiled her version of it today and now I must haveone too! So I might have to either add an item to the capsule collection (egad!) or replace one of the pieces with this cardi. I'll let my energy level and fabric opportunities dictate the outcome. Yet another reason that I may need to go fabric shopping. Are you seeing a theme here?

Let me say, I sure do wish I'd bought the Jenna cardigan pattern when it came out because, when the dollar was on par, I'd have saved 25% just for clicking a button at a different time. Ah, the world economy. Who can make sense of these things?

Thoughts or feelings?

Updated: But wait - there's more... People, I have a problem. It's a serious problem and I'm only sort of joking. I am a fancy-knit-fabric-aholic. I had a doc appt at the end of the day which just so happens to be reasonably close to the new fabric store I love. A propos of Anne's suggestion that the Sunny top have drape, I knew immediately what fabric I would buy (just in case):

It's the modal from last week only in sweatshirt grey (as I like to call it):

Here it is in all it's drapey perfection!!!

I wish I could describe the drape and hand of this fabric. It's so beautiful. So stretchy with snap-back. It's got 50 percent stretch in both directions but it is nothing like your standard rayon jersey. You CANNOT see through it. It weighs a ton. It feels like a million bucks.

This shot is overexposed but it gives a sense of the fabric fall. This stuff is HEAVY but sleek.

BTW, I don't know if my French terry is too thick for the Sunny. It's pretty sleek too (which is the only reason I could get with it). I don't like puffy fabric. Also, I do want a look with a bit of structure in its oversizedness. That's not to say I shouldn't have some of this fabric on hand to make the initial version. I'm steeling myself to cut into something so, well, fine. But there's no way to make a garment in gorgeous fabric unless you actually cut into it, right? Arguably the hard part is the buying, and that's done! And honestly, if I don't feel confident cutting up nice fabric at this point, I'm wasting my time.

But look at the other fabric that actually whispered (metaphorically) from across the room: Hey, Kristin - you want me for the Jenna sweater (which I've given 4 seconds of thought to):

I truly don't know what this fabric is made of. I should have asked?!? I just saw it and said: I'll take a yard and a half please. Here's hoping that's enough.

Is this teal? I honestly don't know. As soon as you think it's blue, it looks green. Then you think it looks green, or is it? I don't even like the colour green?!?!

This is a 2 way stretch. It's a very fine sweater knit. You can see the purl stitches on the wrong side, but just. It weighs less than the modal but it's thicker, spongier with 50% stretch on the cross-grain.

Here's the problem wonderful news for the local economy: I appear to have no self-control when it comes to the good stuff. I am so awed by the possibility of sewing with this stuff - like on a regular basis - that I'm all: Pack it up. But I am going to have to show some restraint for the next little while or until I use up all the fabric I've recently purchase aka 2 weeks from now. The modal is 22 bucks a yard. The other fabric (substance and colour unknown, apparently) is 25 bucks a yard. By the time tax was thrown in, I spent 80 bucks on 3 yards of fabric. Um, yeah.

But I want you to know that I resisted this insane fabric that was part rayon, part cotton and spandex. That was 45 bucks a yard. So really, I saved money. And I'm taking the hit for all the potential buyers who read this blog, experimenting as it were. It's like my public service. :-)

2015 Fall Capsule Wardrobe: The Planning Progresses

Thanks everyone, for commenting on my proposed fall sewing plans. Here's where things stand now (after one of those really "in your face" sew-planning days that yields as many questions as answers - and paper cuts):

• I bought the StyleArc Danni Dolman dress, Emily Knit Top, Sunny Knit Top and Fiona Cardigan. (See here for tech drawings of each.) 

• I put together one of those documents I like to make, outlining my fabric, pattern and pattern-with-fabric options. On page 2 you can see that I landed on these capsule collection choices: 

• StyleArc Sunny Top (in Navy French Terry, if I can do it with 1.25 yards...)

• Self-Drafted Kimono Sleeve Dress (Electric Blue Bamboo)

• StyleArc Danni Dolman Dress (Lavender Modal)

• True Bias Hudson Pants (in Slate French Terry unless I can't do the Sunny in 1.25 of Navy French Terry. Then I'll switch them cuz I think I can get short Hudsons out of a smaller yardage.)

• Vogue 8323 (Lavender Modal or this blue (what a shock) Tencel/Wool jersey I bought from Fabrications a long time ago but don't seem to have any record of, like, anywhere. It's in my closet though. Should have enough of one of these.)

I dispute the required yardages given that I always shorten EVERYTHING by 3 inches. So I'm inclined to give some of my shorter yardages a try, if it seems possible.

What does this tell me about myself?

• I'm embracing the knits big time.
• I'm not into setting in sleeves, apparently, because every one of these options (that has sleeves) has a kimono sleeve of sorts.
• I like making capsule collections of 5 items.
• 4 of these will be work-worthy (if perhaps on Friday)

I spent Sunday aft making up documents, altering my TNTs (yup, if you go long enough, you've got to revisit and alter these things) and assembling downloadable patterns. Now I remember why I buy the ones in an envelope. Lord, what a time, paper, ink and tape suck. Still, it beats waiting. I think.

Here's a glimpse at what I was up to:

Sunny Cocoon Top 

StyleArc Sunny Cocoon Top. Yeah, those are my exceedingly brown feet (only part of me with colour).

Have you ever seen a pattern that looks like this? Seriously, I cut the 10 but I am vaguely afraid. It's very loose looking. I can tell (having done very prelim measurements) that I'm going to have to cut 4 inches off the length and 3 inches from the sleeves (or maybe the centre back?!) The sleeves are measured from the centre back and they're drop shoulder. This should be an adventure, she says optimistically.

Danni Dolman Dress

39 pages to create a dress that's 2 pieces and some ribbing. This is more than half of the floorspace of my sewga room...

Here's what's left after cutting - but note the cutting is rough. I've left space around the cut lines to make alterations...

More to the point, have you ever seen a dress that's effectively 2 pieces?? This thing may look hideous when finished (or not) but it ain't gonna take a long time to put together :-) I need to consider my alterations on this one. I think I'll compare my self-drafted dress (which is also a cut-on sleeve design) and consider shortening the sleeves, waist (to remove overall length), back piece (to remove fabric pooling at the low back and a slight restructure of the boat-esque neck. I'm really narrow in the shoulders so a boat neck for me is like an off the shoulder thing for someone else.

Vogue 8323: I had my biggest shock when I went to check on V8323, which I have only sewn once, back in 2012. OMG, people, in case I wonder if I've learned anything over the years, let this be my example. I am seriously scared by what I found, alterations-wise. Let's just say that I have no idea why I cut all of the excess length of the bodice from the shoulder height?! Actually I suspect it's cuz the armscyes were insanely long (a Vogue trend) and I didn't know what else to do. My originally altered sleeve head looked like a skinny disk. It was insane. I don't know how any of this could have come together into a tolerably adequately-fitting garment. I now understand why it was always so weird feeling to wear.

Strangely, I didn't start from scratch. The Vogue pattern paper can't take it and, really, the original garment wasn't a disaster from a fit perspective. Instead, I went back to my knit sloper and copied the arm depth and armscye shape. I suppose the original had a really long waist and a low-set bust apex - which is the only way my haphazard alteration could have worked. Being self-taught is dangerous, people. We'll see if my latest alterations give me a good result.

Hudson Pants: I don't envision any serious alterations to the Hudson pants (except for shortening) because I only recently fitted them and my lower half is much less prone to changes these days than my midsection.

Self-Drafted Kimono Sleeve Dress: I did alter the self-drafted kimono sleeve dress by adding 1.5 inches at the waist tapering at the full hip. That was a hit to my ego. The bodice (from a vintage Simplicity pattern) is so whack, I daren't do too much to change it (other than making sure the waist works with the skirt). The top was a very good fit in ponte though I cannot figure out how it comes together correctly. I guess I'll relearn as I make it again.

I hope to get started on this next weekend and then complete it over the September long weekend.