In Which I Recount an Experience that No Organized Shopper Should Have to Live Through

Oh, Lord. I just got back from 5 hours at the mall. Yorkdale, to be exact. How could this happen?, I know you are mentally inquiring right now. Aren't I the one who's urged you all to shop from the comfort of your couch? With booze.

In my entire life have I never gone to the mall a week before Xmas. I mean, I won't go to the mall at the best of times, never mind after November 15. And yet, I spent the day there today. From 10 till 3, you know, the witching hours. (At least I assume them to be.)

I ate hideous food and stood on a 20 minute line at Starbucks. I got smacked into by young children and clueless men shopping with young children and was up-sold about 30 times. I did not capitulate. I actively handled the tried'n'true Kristin-anxiety triple threat: crowds, bright lights and noise. (Did I mention that I'm dealing with some ridiculous and recently-arrived, symmetrical sacral pain for the past few days - one of those kinds of pain I NEVER get.)

Really, I kicked ass - though maybe not according to my child, the reason I found myself at the mall 4 days before Christmas. You see, she wanted to go shopping for fun things she "needs". Note to reader: She needs NOTHING. In fact, her room is a tornado of all of the kinds of fast fashion she somehow manages to procure on an ill-deserved allowance. She won't even put anything away so it all lives in piles on the floor. Ditching the old and worn for the new and improved is not a thing that the little hoarder can get with.

I played hard and negotiated a deal: One thing in for one thing out. And then she somehow convinced me to buy her all the things at Sephora and half of the things at Top Shop. She even coerced me into some technical cashmere at a Kit and Ace pop-up shop. (Since when does the mall do pop-up shops??) I'll admit it. I caved. In addition to her loot, I bought myself a top (and I know I always say this, but it looks better on me than on the model in the link. Does every model need to be entirely without profile?). Moreover, what is the world coming to when you buy a glorified T shirt for a hundred bucks? For a teenager.

While we're on the topic, I've already bought her numerous LOVELY gifts that I know she'll enjoy. Those were the things I got while surfing on the couch.

But here's where it all went to hell...

We went bra shopping.

OK, we didn't so much go bra shopping as we went to La Senza (a store I'd eradicate from the face of the earth if I had superhuman powers for 5 minutes). And then we went to Victoria's Secret - a shop with some pretty sexy things (in the pricey section) if you happen to fit the the matrix sizing - which 5 people do. (Note: none of those things is padded or push up.)

I have to preface this by advising you that my child has the most gorgeous bust ever. I know it doesn't matter and that one's heart is the thing that counts and I'm not supposed to notice or care. But really, she won the lottery. Her boobs are self-supporting, perfectly symmetrical, truly high-set. She can wear a 32DD (sort of findable) though her size is more of a 30E (actually, it's 28F but she can't stand the tightness of the band as she has no fat to speak of). I would happily buy her all of the gorgeous things online, without question - just for the vicarious thrill!, but she refuses to comply.

Instead, she goes to the SHITTIEST stores and buys 34D bras with massive amounts of padding and it's a fucking crime. If I had those boobs I would be lavishing them in well-fitted gorgeousness.

Yeah, I know. They're not my boobs and I'd never heap this vitriol on a friend. Furthermore, who better to wear the wrong size bra than the person who doesn't really need one for either support or shaping.

And still, I felt utterly demoralized.

Don't you think that the one thing I should have passed along to my child is the gift of fit discrimination? The other day, I played a little trick on her. We were talking about something irrelevant and, all of a sudden, I quizzed her to name a sister size to 34F. By the way, SHE GOT IT RIGHT in 2 seconds! So I know she's not ignoring everything. But why does she hurt me so?

At any rate, I capitulated to one La Senza atrocity. Then I made her go to the Bay with me and we fought about every bra there. Every. single. fucking. last. one. I bribed her into trying on a few that I could get with (barely) by agreeing to get her a stupid bralet that's basically dental floss and lace. (In truth, she can pull it off so it didn't torment me as much as I'd led her to believe.) Every other bra I brought her to try (and I made sure to go with the B. tempted and all of that youth-market shit) looked fantastic on her. And yet she would only accede to this one (which is very cute on her - not mature at all):

Wacoal Embrace Lace Soft Cup Bra

Every week, on the sub-reddit A Bra That Fits, there's a post from some young girl who wishes her mother would believe her when she says she's not a 36C. These girls write plaintively about how they would so love just one bra in the right size but they simply can't afford it. Here am I, parentally committed to the gift of perfect fit (a promise I made to my child in her first days of life - though I know that sounds ridiculous to say) and she simply doesn't care.

First world problems. Huh?

Fit or Die

I appear to be incapable of knitting anything - even an unfitted, rectangular vest - without doing the math. And thank the knitting goddess, really. Cuz if I hadn't done a gauge swatch and an hour of recon, the Die Cut Vest would be unwearable, I'm pretty sure.

Quick detour: No, I haven't finished the Karner Wrap, the world's most boring and endless project. It seems I'll need to make this my project to knit when I'm working on other projects that I actually enjoy less. On the plus side, it's really gorgeous and I can see how it's going to be very useful. And chic. I don't think it much matters if it takes me another couple of months to finish the second half.

But back to the Die Cut Vest...

Die Cut Vest by Sara Morris

The most difficult thing about this vest is getting your head around the construction. It's knit along the vertical plane from centre front lace panel to centre front lace panel. (Well, there's a seam down the middle of the back, if you choose to follow the instructions, so technically you knit 2 halves and then join.) My point is that your vertical gauge affects your horizontal plane (width) and your horizontal gauge affects your vertical plane (length). It's a bit of a mind fuck.

What further adds to the challenge - if you don't get gauge - is that the pattern is written with a combo of length by row count and length by inches (remember, affecting width) instructions - so you can't just sub your own gauge into the equation, change the number of rows you work, and assume it's all going to be ok.

When you look at this vest, you might think - as I really, really wanted to: There's no shaping to speak of. It's perfect for winging it! 

Do not be fooled.

Reason Why You Shouldn't Wing It No. 1: Thing is, my gauge is VERY off. And from the looks of many versions I've seen, so is everyone else's. The pattern dictates 7.5 stitches and 10.25 rows per inch on a 3mm needle. Recognizing that I knit loosely, I swatched on a 2.75 mm needle and my gauge was still only 6 st and 9 rows, after blocking. That's crazy off - on a smaller needle.

In real terms, what this means is that my vest dimensions would be 6 inches wider and 4 inches longer than the pattern's had I just started knitting with my "predicted" smaller needle size. If I'd gone with the original (3 mm) needle, I can't imagine how bad the end product would have been?!

I should say that the fabric is very dense, even having only gone down one needle size. I'm loath to go down another, but it's really my best recourse. Cuz even if I go down another size, I can only hope that I'll nudge my (very off) gauge to 6.75 stitches and 9.75 rows per inch. Happily, that would allow me to achieve the exact length I want - 18.5 inches (2.5 inches longer than the pattern specifies). In terms of vertical gauge (determining width), I'd be able to cut 3 of those extra 6 inches of width. I'd deal with the remaining 3 inches by removing width from the centre back of the vest. In this case, that's as easy as cutting about 15 rows from each side of that centre seam. Gotta love less work!

Reason Why You Shouldn't Wing It No. 2: Here's the thing. I intend to make the size 32. The pattern specifies that this size refers to a full bust circumference of 32 inches. (Side Bar: As you know, I'm ok with lots of negative wearing ease, even when the garment is supposed to have none.) The ridiculous thing about this vest, however - and please review the totally confusing pattern schematic to confirm this for yourself - is that the size 32 actually knits up to a bust circumference of 41". The designer has added 9 inches of ease into the pattern and doesn't mention it anywhere??? If you want to know, you've got to dig around the schematic or read the instructions and devise a schematic of your own. I did devise my own schematic based on instructions because the one provided is really inadequate.

It's no wonder that most every Raveler's finished version (except for the one modeled in the relevant issue of Knit.Wear) looks like a sloppy, oversized mess. Even if you get gauge this thing is likely bigger than you'd want it to be. Add to that the predisposition of the average knitter to a) avoid swatching on unfitted items and b) consider only horizontal gauge when they do swatch and it's no surprise.

Stupidly, sometimes your unfitted garments require more fitting than the fitted ones.

Next up: I swatch for the second time, on the 2.5mm needle, hopefully to get gauge that will permit me to make this garment. Remember, I don't need even need to get pattern gauge. I just have to manage to gain .75 of a stitch per inch and .75 of a row per inch. This should be interesting... Oh, and wait till I tell you about the yarn I've chosen.

In the meanwhile, thoughts or feelings?

Fairy Tale

Let me tell you a little story...

Once upon a time, there was a beautiful fairy princess named Kristin. Kristin was kind of a stylish princess, in the sense that she knew her own style and used that self-awareness to her advantage time and time again.

Although the princess was very rich and she lived in a beautiful castle, she still like to engage in peasant pastimes, just for fun, hence her hobbies, sewing and knitting and her extensive cache of handmade wares. She liked to display them in the Princessdom and always appreciated compliments.

Life was good.

As time went on, the princess (though she was very princess-y and always well-turned out) discovered that something odd was afoot with her appearance. She'd handcrafted a trio of magic body suits, designed to be worn with a denim, straight, slim fitting mini-skirt (also handmade). However, somehow the skirt seemed just a bit snug with the bulk of the tucked in bodice fabric to contend with. What she noticed, as she wore the outfit, was that she felt the need to tug the skirt down - something she had not been required to do in previous days. This was not a princess-certified action!

Off she went to stare into the fairy looking glass, waiting for its creepy inhabitant to enlighten her, but instead she got her answer via old-school looking. Egad! The princess was not quite as svelte - circa the navel area - as she had been in times of yore.

I mean, she was a princess still. She had pretty locks and rosy skin. She retained her bouncy demeanour and her princess-costumes were always a la mode. But something was up.

And since this princess kicked ass when it came to figuring stuff out and keeping it real, she took out her trusty tape-measure (which sang to her as she worked) and she re-took all of the relevant measurements, recognizing that vertical measurements would be the key to unlocking the secret mystery.

The sentient tape measure didn't understand why vertical measurements would be key in this instance - he was a question-asker - so she explained (also in song) that while her hip measurement hadn't changed, and her waist measurement was only notionally increased. The wild card spot was the space between her natural waist and full hip.

That, said she, was the zone of unknown terror.

In truth, it had always been the no-man's land, but for princesses of a certain age, apparently this was terrain with which to contend. (The princess remembered her mother, the wise queen, advising her of this little-appreciated fact, years before.)

It seemed that the reason that the skirt wasn't sitting in a princess-worthy fashion, was because the navel-zone had increased in circumference by an inch. In truth, this had been happening, incrementally, over the period of a year or two... It had only just become noticeable, particularly at a certain time of the month.

Happily, the princess realized that this was an easy matter to resolve. She took her trusted pattern and added a quarter of an inch to each side seam, at the relevant spot (3 inches below her natural waist), to ensure that her skirt would once again fit her beautifully.

Order was restored in the land (or at least she hoped it would be when she made a new version of the skirt - albeit with new fabric having different properties than that of the old). The princess went on with her life, doing yoga and walking to and/or from work. She recognized that body change is momentary and that she might well need to revert to her original pattern at some time in the future, much as she had adjusted to changes in her shape many times before.

The moral of this story: Wise princesses know that clothes that fit highlight natural beauty, symmetry and form - and clothes that are just slightly too small might as well be made for mice. Most subjects can only perceive poor fit, not the extent to which it is poor. So look into that magic mirror and see what it shows you. It is the key to winning your domain.

StyleArc Claudia Pants: The Reveal

I don't know if one ought to put the words "pants" and "reveal" in the same title, but there you go.

Let's start with a zillion photos of what I'm calling a wearable muslin. In truth, it's rather wearable:

These are the pattern pieces I used to make the finished pants. Note: They're not the final pattern pieces. There are more changes I have made on the basis of the "wearable muslin".

Pants really don't look great lying on the floor. But this does give you a sense of the fabric and overall shape.

The darts were a bitch to sew in this rayon "denim" Oh yeah, I shortened the stitch length at the point, I curved the dart slightly at the point, I hammered these things with a clapper after serious pressing. The fabric is SO drapey that it just doesn't take darts well. Fortunately you can't seen those little bumps when the pants are on. They nicely flatten out over one's derriere.

Front facing from the wrong side

Back facing from the wrong side

The rather crappily inserted (but totally strong and functional) zipper. Whatevs. No one cares what the zipper looks like on the inside. See how, since I opted to use a slot zipper (regular) vs an invisible zipper, the facing attaches differently than it would have otherwise. I had a clean finish with the invisible zip. On the fly, I just serged the ends off the facing where it abuts the zipper. I didn't want to fold under and incur unnecessary bulk.

And then there are the money shots:

I freakin' love the drape of these pants.

OK, here's what I learned / what I did / what I'll do next etc...

• I'm going to sew these up in every fabric imaginable, using my new (unphotoed) version of the pattern wherein I learned a few things on this go round:
• I could use another 0.5" of length along the back crotch (fabric depending).
• I could use a slightly shorter length of front crotch (fabric depending).
• The inner thighs are slightly roomy. Next time I'll remove about 1/4" from that wedge I added on after muslin 1 (see top photo, back piece)
• I have to remove about 0.5 inches from the hips with fabric having @20% stretch.
• I want them a bit longer so I'll add another 0.5" to the hem and hem at about 0.5" vs. the 1" hem of these pants.
• The waist is a bit big. But that will serve me well if I use a very firm stretch woven.
• I'm really not a fan of facing. It always flips up a bit, even when well-understitched and pressed to hell. I've learned that, in future, I do not want to clip the seam allowance that attaches the top of the pants to the facing. 0.25" is a good seam allowance and is adequately non-bulky but also long enough so that you can understitch  at a point that will optimally maintain the turn of cloth from the inside. Enough with the clipping!

• Alterations I'll happily stick with:
• The lengthening of the back rise meant that I could remove an inch from the top of the back waist. My need was not for more length at the waist, but at the fullest part of the derriere.
• The slot zipper is a much better bet than an invisible one. Sure, it's not invisible but who cares? It's not bulky or unattractive and it will last for much longer, I suspect. (Don't forget to interface the seam allowances under the zipper. It will keep everything secure and you won't get dreaded bubble zip at the base. This is particularly important if you are using a stretchy fabric with an invisible zip.)
• The waist-height is pretty perfect.
• A propos of waist facings that like to shift, these pants - with all of their darts and seams - give plenty of places wherein one can invisibly tack, by hand, the facing to the pants. It now maintains its fall perfectly.

So that's what I can tell you about this process. I thought of titling this post "Work Very Hard. Then Pat Yourself On the Back" because that's kind of what I've done here. Don't misunderstand, perfection is not achieved. I don't think one can ensure ease and perfection making a pattern until one has remade it in many fabrics, many times, refining things as she goes. This however, is a promising start.

Getting Fit(ted)

Yesterday was sewing-central in the Kristin household. It started with a telephone call with Myrna, to talk about my Claudia pants muslin, and we had a terrific chat which clarified some things for me  - not least of which is the concept of scooping.

Not to belabour this, but I had truly NO idea of the true meaning of the term "scooping", when it comes to pants fitting, though I've happily thrown it around whenever the mood strikes.

Just to clarify for all of us (and sorry to tell you something you may already know): Scooping - a mid-sewing fabric fix, not a flat pattern alteration - is not specifically about getting rid of fabric at the back crotch curve (for example) in order to add more room for the derriere via the addition of negative space. Scooping is about lengthening the crotch curve by creating an L wedge at the relevant place so that you effectively achieve the additional space you need. Then, you cut extra fabric away (strategically, not just willy nilly) to true up the line.

I hope that Myrna doesn't mind - let me know, M! - that I'm posting a photo she sent to me yesterday that beautifully illustrates the point:

Photo by Myrna Giesbrecht

The line that's closest to the raw edge of the curve is the original stitch line (indicated by the pattern). The scooped line (which was achieved in phases illustrated by the stitching rings you see), is the most L shaped one, farthest from the raw edge. That L shaped stitch line has produced an extension of the original crotch length, giving extra space where it's needed. The diagonal line you see from the angle of the L to the raw edge is a snip, I believe, inserted to allow for truing of the fabric on the fly. Note that the L shape angle, illustrated here, is very likely distinct from the scoop angle you need to make because it suits a particular shape of derriere. For example, it would not suit my shape (as I have a butt that sticks out somewhat).

Scooping is the fabric fix - often a life-saver in fitting - which is similarly achieved, if differently, by this flat pattern alteration:

Look at the back piece (the one on the right in the photo above). This is how I've altered the paper to fix the tightness of the back crotch I discovered in my last muslin. The outcome is similar to scooping shown in the top photo though pls note that scooping is not a wedge alteration. See that wedge below the darts? The part at the crotch curve is lengthened by 1.5 inches, effectively providing the derriere with more space - same as that scooping alteration from Myrna's pic above.

Now, I wouldn't have had that tightness if I hadn't shortened the original pattern equally at the hip and crotch, one muslin ago. I need a wedge alteration on the back crotch (to make things longer) AND on the front crotch (left of pic, harder to see cuz of the way the pattern is upside down) (to make things shorter). Despite our unique shapes and sizes, many sewists find the same general alteration is required.

Since I have tapered the wedge, in both instances, at the side seam, crotch length alteration has no impact on the length or proportion of the outer legs.

Hilariously, I need to make both of these crotch alterations to still a greater extent than currently I have - shortening the front by an extra 0.5" and lengthening the back by the same amount. But this next muslin will most definitely be wearable. I'm just getting picky. Oh, and I've got to remove 0.5" at the hips again. Note: When you make the correct crotch alteration, you often don't need to add fabric in all kinds of other places. Away that extra paper on the hip will go - for the third time.

Now, this wasn't even the half of my day as I spent the aft and evening with Sara and Andrea - and S. my fitting friend - working on fitting of Sara's Albion muslin. Such fun! S has been schooled by hardcore English fitters and Andrea in the Palmer Pletsch system and they had distinct takes on how Sara's alterations should go. Mind you, they both got to the same place in the end which made for an awesome improvement of fit and Sara's tremendous happiness.

It was truly exciting to watch things unfold. (But not exciting to make the flat pattern alterations.)

I am more than ever convinced that my fitting style is hideously non-academic non-traditional. A and S were throwing around concepts and numbers like savants. It was palpable how they were able to communicate in a way that was so enjoyable for them. I do get to the same end point, but at a pace that is more that of paint drying than computers computing. For better or worse, my brain comes at fitting from a totally different vantage point. Sometimes I'm convinced that I'm slip shod, but really, I suspect (given that I do make clothing that fits) my method is best referred to as intuitive.

In few instances, more cooks can make for a better dinner, and I believe this is one of them. I'm so happy that S will have more helpers, at future sessions, to facilitate her fitting solutions and that we'll each have a chance to improve home-sewist fitting, one future garment at a time.

StyleArc Claudia Pants: Original Pattern To Muslin 3

First... (Unaltered)

Then... (Muslin 1)

Now... (Muslin 3)

See last post for deets about the latest round of alterations.

I wonder if this time's a charm?? I do have to say that the latest curve looks resonant, in a weird, internal seams of clothing kind of way. I relate to the short, flatness of the front and the scoopy back (which deepens just at the base). And those hips are very me.

BTW, I did have enough fabric to cut a second pair of pants - though I did repurpose the waist facing. Mind you, I cut the waist facing twice... Point is, 2 yards of 60 wide fabric will make 2 pairs of these in a size 10...

StyleArc Claudia Pants: The Fitting Continues

Well this is getting interesting...

Remember this altered pattern, which I lengthened by 3/8" at the top and to which I added fabric to the crotch curve and inner thigh?

Left pieces are the front of the pants, right piece is the back...

Well, I spent a while basting the shell together, to see what would come of it and here's what I discovered (other than, man - they were way too big just about everywhere):

The fabric shows my first iteration of the altered pattern, discussed in the previous post linked to above. The paper shows the new alterations on the basis of what I learned having basted the first iteration, cut fabric together.

Just to complicate things visually, in this pic, the left piece is the back of the pants and the right pieces are the front. The pattern has been altered to reflect the changes I believe are required having tried on the basted muslin for fit.

Important note: Ordinarily, I would start with new fabric because I shortened the crotch from the midpoint of the crotch curve, where that flap of fabric is now, and the back piece (having a hem dart) from below the knee. Alas, one cannot do that with one's already cut fabric, so I'm shortening this muslin from the top and bottom of the pattern. Because I have SO much excess fabric, I can do this (though we don't know if it will have unknown impacts re: grain). I suspect not, given the lengthwise and widthwise stretch of this fabric, but I do think it bears mention.

This round of alterations:

• Adding 3/8" of fabric at the waist wasn't a bad idea - but I did need to remove 1.25" of depth in the crotch all around.

• Shortened the length of the pants, below the knee, by 2 inches. I guess my legs are really not that long...

• When I shortened the front curve, it made almost NO difference to the line of the front crotch because that front curve is practically flat almost to the base. I did have to take some width out of the hip (probably that extra inch I added in when I altered the original pattern per my denim leggings pattern) and a bit out of the inner and outer legs. BTW, I sense that the front curve looks like that because of the relative fullness of my abdomen.

• The back piece got most of the attention... That little wedge of paper taped on top of the piece is the amount I had to remove from the previously altered back crotch curve once I shortened the rise (as I trued the pattern piece to reflect the new rise). If you look at the top photo (the one showing my starting point before this round of alterations) you'll observe that what I've done, essentially, is return the curve to that of the original pattern by removing a lot of the extra width I added into the primary alteration of this crotch curve (on the basis of what I learned the last time I made stretch woven pants (denim leggings)). My point is, all I've really done to alter this pattern is shorten the crotch curve by 1.25 inches and add about an inch of extra fabric to the inner thigh (from the back piece). Oh, and shorten the legs below the knee.

• Less notably, I also had to remove a reasonable amount of width from the hip and leg on the back piece...

What actually fit right out of the envelope? Well, the proportion was almost smack on for my body, which you can more or less discern by looking at the newly altered pieces atop the, as-yet unaltered cut fabric. The waist height, once I addressed the crotch depth, was almost perfect. The darts were a good width, as drawn. The waist fit almost perfectly.

Even though, when I tried on the basted muslin, I might have called it a disaster, on 5 minutes of reflection, this was fairly easy to improve.

Now let's see how the next version works. This time I'm actually going to sew.

Prep School

OK, this'll be my last word for the day on the Claudia pants. (I have to hope.) I've done all the prep this weekend - 10 hours worth:

• Traced the pattern with extra hip width (good call, I suspect, as my fabric has 20 per cent stretch and the pattern calls for fabric that has 30 per cent stretch).
• Altered the traced pattern per my denim leggings "sloper".
• Prepped the fabric. Washed and dried in machine. Then steamed to ensure no more vertical shrinkage.
• Cut the fabric.
• Marked the fabric.
• Threaded the serger. Tested the fabric with the serger.
• Threaded the machine. Tested the fabric with the machine.
• Read up on all the posts I could find about the Claudia pants (not much).
• Read up on crotch curves.
• Wrote 4 posts considering things (and thinking as I wrote).

I've decided to view this as sewing.

I mean, if I think about it as prep, it seems so precursory and irritating. But if I think of it as sewing, then I sewed a lot! Bring out the wine!

This means I can simply get down to construction next weekend. And I do use the word "simply" with a wink. After all, we have no idea if this test run will be a perfect fit or a disaster. Looking at that curve, I'm leaning to the latter perspective - but, on the plus side, I've added so much extra fabric to the original curve that I should be able to baste everything, determine issues, and still be able to hack at the crotch without sacrificing the fabric. It's scary when this counts as a cautious success :-)

Amazingly, I only used @1 yard of my 2 yards of fabric, so this pattern is not a fabric hog. I may actually be able to get a second pair from my current yardage, minus the facings, should the need arise. (Oh, and I've bought another 2 yards of the fabric, so I can relax. Not to mention, I've got other denim stashed - albeit other denim with even less stretch than this denim.)

Well, that's my weekend. No knitting so far though I do want to finish the sweater. Just made a Bolognese sauce that's simmering on the stove and it smells fine.

What have you been up to?

I Truly Don't Understand This Alteration

I guess that's why they call it the muslin phase.

Based on Sunni's post (wherein she has provided a very useful photo from Pants For Real People, with permission of the author), sense I've made the following alteration to the original pattern:

•  Making the waist higher. Yeah, I went there. I want this thing to be at least as high as those denim leggings. I'm a phase in my life where my abdomen is not only larger than I'd like but also relatively untoned - despite lots o' yoga. (I'm taking the long view peeps. Hormones are a fucking bitch.)

• Making the upper, inner thighs roomier. Not surprising since that's the only place where fat lives on my legs - just up at the top, as the altered pattern indicates. Also, remember I bought the size 10 because I read that the pattern runs large. In a 12, I'd probably still have to adjust the curve but maybe not as much...

• I've added a bit of extra fabric to the front crotch and quite a bit to the back curve. Here's where things get dicey. I can see how the original pattern comes together with a deep "u". Mine is the oddest "v". Hmmm... This kind of goes against my need for an L shaped crotch curve (vs a J shape). I have read elsewhere, however, that in close fitting knit pants the J shape is used to best effect. That's sort of the shape of the unaltered Claudia crotch curve. Whether the v works on me, we'll have to see.

BTW, I really recommend Pants For Real People, hideousness of the design and layout aside.

Thoughts or feelings on this?

Slippery Sloper

On the basis of a couple of comments yesterday (thank you!) and an email exchange with S., I had this moment of sewing memory lucidity...

Remember these? (Please ignore my deathly sick look...)

Well, they just happen to be pants made for a stretch woven. Sure, they're the jeans version of leggings, but note that I made those with denim that barely stretched. I mean, it doesn't stretch at all which is why I haven't been wearing them lately...

For kicks, I took out the pattern. Egad, that seems almost "sloper comparison-esque".

Here's what my altered version it looks like:

Seems that I had to a) lengthen the denim leggings at the hem but I didn't shorten them in the rise tremendously much and - note this with interest! - I actually raised the waist-line twice to get them to sit at my real waist.

And here are the relevant pieces of the Claudia pattern overlaid:

Fascinating, yes?

There's not a tremendous amount of difference between these curves. Sure, there's the need for refinement in length and depth - and the first try might not work perfectly - but I am starting to see how this pattern is not cut for an Amazon.
This bonus photo shows that the length of the Claudia pant is about 0.5" longer than the denim leggings sloper, but that's before any refinements...

So that's where I'm at right now. Strangely grateful for a sloper of sorts, to potentially have saved me from slicing and dicing the Claudia (I traced it! It wouldn't have been a disaster!) in accordance with a loose-fit pants sloper designed for wovens.

Whatcha think?

Vowels Are Crunchy

I spend more time eating my words...

So, after more than a year of avoiding Bratabase, I've succumbed to its call.

For starters, let me tell you what put me off for so long:

• It's not an attractive interface. There's a kind of cognitive dissonance in using an ugly platform to database one's most beautiful underthings.

• When it first started, there was very little data to be found. I do realize that the idea behind the site is that people like me (and specifically like me - lingerie addicts who like dealing with measurements) add the content. It's a give-and-get modality. The truth is, until now I haven't been able to see past the ugly (maybe cuz there was not much else to see).

• I didn't feel the need to connect with the "bra community" in this context at this level of detail. Mind you, in the last little while I've observed how helpful it seems to be for people to speak about bra fit and their experiences on platforms such as these (subreddits, anyone?). I've had two discussion platforms for many years (my everyday life, wherein I torture people with info on bras all freakin' day, and my blog via which I proselytize routinely).

Change is good though, so they say, which brings me to my current perspective:

• I own a lot of bras. Sometimes I can't keep them straight. (OK, that's not true about keeping them straight - I wear them all (25, currently) on a regular basis and I keep them well-organized.) Here's the thing, I have a sample of bras that doesn't seem well-represented on Bratabase currently - the super expensive category.

• Furthermore, as my size and shape may change, it's very useful to have a database of measurements and fit information to which I can refer. Then, if I "regress", I'll have lots of detail at my access.

• The reason I wear bras that fit is because I've had access to the resources that make it possible. I should pass that on in as many ways as I can.

• The place is no longer a ghost town. OK, I know, I'm not going to win any awards for early adopter, this time, but I wasn't psyched to hang out in a dingy room on my own (metaphorically speaking). Now there's much more functionality, more conversation and more info. It inclines me to participate.

• Bratabase is actually offering something that no other platform does (as far as I know) - very detailed, measurements of many kinds (including three-dimensional) on every bra it profiles. That means, if I (or someone in Iqaluit) want to know if a bra, to be purchased online, will fit, I can refer to such ephemeral - but useful - info as cup depth and wire height. You can even determine what breast shape is optimal for what bras, so that you don't waste time on something that isn't ever going to work because the gores are too wide or the wires too narrow.

• The full bust, narrow frame market is increasing in numbers. Maybe that's because we're ever more out and proud. Maybe it's because - due to environment or evolution - there are more of us all the time. The point is, the mainstream (aka department stores) has not evolved at the same pace and so many of us are forced to purchase online. I'm very fortunate - I live in a huge city with numerous options within walking distance. That lady in Iqaluit does not. As a result, the majority of us really are at the will of the resources that give us critical information about fit.

Don't get me wrong. Nothing is ever going to be as good as going into a store, trying on a bra, getting someone else's opinion and walking out with the perfect set. But till we can all afford to do that, we've got to do the next best thing. At the moment, it appears that's databasing.

The Spring Suit: Muslin 1 and Why It's Good to be Short

Today is muslin fitting 1. Tabula rasa, as it were, for this season's tailoring project. To prep for this, I've cut the muslin fabric and carefully marked it up with just about every conceivable line. 

Yeah, this was as painful as it looks - and I haven't even sewn the fucking thing.

I even added additional lines, which will facilitate reflecting alterations from the muslin to the paper pattern: a horizontal balance line (HBL) above the bust, an HBL above the waist and the 5/8" stitching line. S and I are using, among other methods, the Sarah Veblen "fitting axis" approach. The idea is to ensure that the HBLs, drawn onto the fabric before sewing, are rendered perfectly level during the fitting process (whatever alterations are required to obtain the fit). The lines highlight drag or pull (which can occur for any number of reasons and which, therefore, must be carefully considered before applying a correction).

If I sound psyched about this, it's only the hummingbird-like frequency of my anxiety taking centre-stage. I'm afraid, even as I'm excited by the process. What if this pattern treats me like the last one? I mean, I know I'm working with a design that's tried and true and written by an expert. Frankly, merely if the notches align, I'll be 100 per cent ahead of the game over last time. But I know I'm multi-sized in a fitted, tailored jacket. I mean, seriously, body-types such as mine are the reason that knits were invented! (Look, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.)

In the construction of the last jacket, you might recall we needed to shorten the waist, increase the full bust AND decrease the upper bust (you heard it right - I had to do an FBA and an SBA in the same freakin' five-inch zone), plus adjust the sleeve to account for shoulders that rotate forward slightly. And those were simply the big ticket alterations!

And never mind me - this time I've got someone else's body to consider! I mean, people, it's not like I've got a degree in fashion design!

This is as good a time as any to touch on the concept that becomes ever-more apparent with each passing project - and especially as I learn more about my tall sewist friends. I am 5'3" with a curvy frame. By that I mean my breasts take up a lot of circumference (relatively) but my shoulders and my waist are narrow. Effectively, I'm a short and narrow person and my shortness is all in my torso (but I'm not that tall so my proportionately-long legs are still not tall). 

S is a tall, very slender, person. She's 5'8" with a straight frame. By that I mean she is willowy, but with width in her upper back. She is also long in the torso. And she has net long legs given that she's reasonably tall.

Guess who needs more fabric to make a suit? Um, that would be the exceedingly slender one. 

Generally, I can get away with removing at least 3/4 of a yard of fabric from a suit pattern: jacket and associated bottom (either pants or skirt). We measured my neck-nape to waist and, seriously, it's so short, it's not even on the Vogue chart (13.5 inches). Think about it: When you cut fabric, you generally have enough width - especially if the bolt is 60 inches wide - to cut far more widely than you need to. Hence, all of those crazy selvedge-side scraps. My boobs are the beneficiary of that! On the flip side, what are you most concerned about, tall ladies? Not having enough length for that hip-length jacket or that pair of pants! Sorry, tall girlz. Those pants just kill the budget with the extra yardage you require.

Where's the justice in that? Well, technically, you have height so I find it hard to feel bad for you. But next time you're feeling sorry for me, just remember I save the cost of a sweet little shirt with every suit. Now if only I could figure out how to fit it.

Lingerie Shop Along: My List

Let's recap the online Lingerie Shop Along. So far, perhaps you've:

• Defined, for yourself, the meaning of "lingerie basics"
• Culled your lingerie drawers to determine which basics need replacing / stocking
• Determined the sites that suit your needs and stock our styles
• Bookmarked some faves, with nary a thought for practicality (step 1 of the purchase process)

Just so happens that I've done this too. See, while I have a very well stocked lingerie drawer, in general, I've discovered a few things lately:

• Due to hormonal changes (I suspect), my breasts have changed shape and size, slightly. Like most women, I have breasts of nominally different sizes (well disguised by good lingerie). In case you're unaware, one has to choose bra sizes to fit the larger breast. And, while I was between sizes before, leaning towards the smaller of two cup sizes, now I'm leaning towards the larger. My back circumference is unchanged. 

• I know all of this because I measure my under bust (ribcage just below the breasts), upper chest (circumference of the torso above the breasts) and full bust (right over nipples, wearing a bra) on a crazily regular basis.

• All of my lingerie is in very good shape but that doesn't mean it all fits optimally. I've taken the bras that don't fit, for one reason or another, and the matching undies, and moved them to my "later" drawer. FYI, I was also able to reclaim some of the items in my "later" drawer because those bras now fit. Like every woman on the planet, I'm a regular person who experiences small and occasional fluctuations in size and dimension. I don't judge, though I do pay attention. And, apparently, this has been happening for a decade, because that's how long I've been stocking the "later" drawer and calling on it when I do a refresh.

• A brief note about bra wear: Yeah, I have a lot of bras (though not as many as you would think). Admittedly, I have more bras in regular rotation right now than I did when I wrote that post... I can't remember ever "wearing out" a bra - other than the seamless beige ones that I wear into the ground. I treat them with love, natch, and I have enough to rotate them so that I never wear the same one 2 days in a row (a must to preserve the elastic). I also make sure only to buy bras with bands that are snug on the loosest hook so that, as those bands stretch (they all do), I won't find myself needing to repurchase due to looseness which spells the death of support. But the real reason I haven't worn out some of my 10 year old, most beloved bras is that they're super, freakin' well-made. I have one bra I've worn once a week for 10 years, no joke, and it's still fitting fantastically. So disabuse yourself of the notion that you're wasting your money when you spend on the good stuff.

• I'm simply finished with a few items. Strangely, they're the newer rather than the older ones. I've done a bit of experimenting with brands in the last couple of years and the quality of some of the bras I bought (the lower end brands) just doesn't appeal to me. It's hard to wear the less perfect (IMO - it's simply a matter of my perspective) when the more perfect is sitting right next to it. And the less pricey bras tend to fit more shallowly.

• This week I determined that I need: 

1. A replacement seamless beige bra (the same one I've worn in various similar sizes for a decade)
2. A replacement for one of my fave bras that is too large in the back (I have 2 pairs of undies that I can't wear as a result and the whole set is insanely sexy)
3. Extra undies to go with 2 bras I love and wear, but that I can't wear as often as I otherwise would because I've only got one pair of undies for each
4. A cami with a built in bra - an actual bra, not a whacky elastic shelf that does fuck all except compress your boobs, regardless of their size
5. A soft cup, unwired "wear around the house bra". Everyone's writing about them and I've bought the hype. Something tells me this is a scam, but these boobs aren't getting any perkier.
6. A special new set - a very specific one by Freya that just came out and that I've been waiting on tenterhooks to purchase for months

Yup, that's 4 bras (1 Fantasie, 2 Freya), three pairs of undies (2 Freya, 1 Miss Mandalay) and a camisole (Panache).

Wanna take bets on how much that's gonna cost me?

Phatter

Yesterday I gave you some straight up opinions about back fat. Today, I'd like to share some ideas about how you might choose bras, and clothes, to ameliorate the situation. Cuz, IMO, I think we've gotta kick this insecurity in the ass.

But first, a little PSA about one sort of back fat I neglected to address in the last post. This sort is hotly debated in the biz (whatever that is. Lord knows I'm not in the biz so maybe I should stop talking about their hot debates...) This type of fat is actually migrated breast tissue and there are a lot of suspect posts about it out there, though this one is quite good (and it links to a few additional posts).

My personal opinion is that migrated breast tissue is not a myth. I've seen it. It usually happens when a woman (of any breast size) has been wearing the incorrect cup size for a long time. You know those peeps who are in a cup 3 sizes too small? Where the under wire hits the side of the breast, not at the back, but along the actual breast? Or those whose breasts are barely contained by the top of the cups, while the centre gores are a good inch away from the breastbone against which they should lie flat.

Over time, especially if you have the tendency, you may start to see extra fleshiness, often at the side torso, around the band. You may also see flesh migrate along the sternum (though this doesn't produce back fat).

On a positive note, I also believe that, once you start wearing the right bra size, the tissue can revert to its former and natural location. But I don't think the process is necessarily quick. And I suspect, if you're 65 and you've been in the wrong bra for 50 years, you're less likely to see a reversal than a woman of 23, for example. Note: If you're in the former category, by all means aim to beat the odds. You'll look much better as soon as you get your bra size sorted out, even if everything doesn't pop back to its original spot.

OK, onto the kinds of bras that seem to mitigate the issue. Please note that I am not suggesting the bras pictured below, nor do I think they fit the model perfectly. However, I do have experience of each of these brands and I think they're very good. Also note that I've drawn the photos from Figleaves, for convenience (and because I sometimes purchase there), but that other online stores - like Large Cup Lingerie sell much of the same stock with the same efficiency. More to the point, LCL ships for free!

• Those with wide bands (3 hooks minimum, or at least, wide side under wires that diminish to a 2-hook back).  It stands to reason that the more area over which you support your breasts, the more you can defray the bulge.

Panache Andorra - This brand manufactures some really supportive bands that are deceptively delicate-looking.

• Those with side-shaping. They tend to have wires that sit higher on the side breast which allows for width in the side band.

Kathryn Bra by Fantasie (this brand caters to the side-support seekers)

•  Expensive bras. Hear me out. The really high-end lines (which can often be purchased at good prices online or on sale) have access to the best wires and materials. Not only will you look chic, but the material that's making you look chic will also control any back fat issues.

Empreinte Roxanne - I have wanted this bra forevah but I can't find any online vendor that will ship it out of the EU.

• Mid line or long line bras. Oh, the times they have been tough for the ladies who want these bras but who do not conform to the 34B-38DD size range. Or those who don't like the retro-look. But I sense things are changing. Freya and Cleo (Panache) have put out some great options in the 30 back to G cup range, though I'm not convinced they've hit their stride. I own one Freya long line and it's really a mid line and there's no actual boning on the sides and there's slight padding in the cups. This doesn't a) maximize my support or b) streamline the profile of my chest. However, the young women have taken to these and they're buying them like hot cakes, so I think, at least for those of narrow(ish) frame and large(ish) breasts, it's good times ahead.

Freya Piper Long Line

• Sexy, one-pieces. No, I don't mean Spanx. I do mean body-suits with built in bras that actually contain support. The torsos of these body-suits should not compress you, but they should skim. I own this one and it's awesome. It is not tight at all but it holds everything in place:

Panache Confetti Thong Body

Remember, it doesn't matter what the band is doing if the cups don't fit, so make sure your entire breast is inserted comfortably within the under wire and that the centre gore of that under wire can lie flat against your breast bone.

In short, you're looking for undergarments made of high-end materials, wide bands, firm support from those bands (i.e. you have to wear the "right size") and properly-sized cups.

On the topic of clothing that enhances the fabulousness of your fabulous undergarments, I warn you against slim gauge 4-way stretch knits if you're looking to hide a bulge. The fabrics and cuts that will work best, IMO, are these:

• Stable knits (like ponte or two-way stretch jersey). Whether you wear these in a t shirt or a body skimming tunic or dress, be sure you're in the right size. Too big will look less than flattering. Too small will do the same thing.

• Darker colours in fabrics having solid colours or discreet patterns. I don't mean you have to wear black! But white is gonna give it all up. So use your discretion.

• Blouses with a small amount of spandex for stretch. Note, these have to fit really well. They need sharp shaping at the waist and adequate width through the breasts and torso. And they must fit like a dream in the shoulders. But they sure do skim nicely when they're done well. If you have large breasts and you don't sew / and custom fit your hand-sewn garments then look up those brands that cater to curvy ladies.

• Structured wovens. Again, they have to fit. Too tight and you're gonna look like a sausage.

Don't fear any particular type of garment but wear only what flatters. Most people have to chuck 90 per cent of what they try on at a high-street RTW store without leaving the change-room. That's normal. So be prepared to do a lot of discarding to find a few great things. And then enjoy them!

In terms of fabric, I suspect that rayon knits are the hardest to wear, along with silk-blend stretch fabric. If 4 inches of unstretched garment width can stretch to more than 6 inches, it's probably not gonna work. But don't take my word for it, do your own research.

So, I'd love to know if you concur with these findings or if you disagree. Let's continue yesterday's discussion!

BTW, this post really does align quite nicely with the Cake Patterns pre-order happening at Steph's blog, so check out this great new company and pre-order a flattering look!

Phat

When I was reading Steph's latest post (talk about moxy), I was reminded of this informative post, wherein I note a similar theme.

That theme is, and I hate this term: back fat. Egad! What is the world coming to when we can't find a more elegant name for such a thing? I'd settle for simply avoiding the topic!

In truth, though, it is a concern for many women. I know this because they email me about it. Or they talk to me about it over a drink. Or we discuss it at length when I'm goading them helping them to find the new bras that will undoubtedly improve their lives. (No, I'm not being bourgeois or glib.) People have the same kind of horrified response to "back fat" as they do to cellulite. Apropos of which, let me tell you a little story:

One day, a long time ago, I learned about a new cellulite product, purported to be revolutionary. Of course, the marketing grabbed me. (I am so at the mercy of good marketing and green potions with "microbeads".) Anyway, I went to the store and came home with this ridiculously expensive product, which was essentially caffeine-laced goo. It was a total pain in the ass to apply (pun intended). Before using it, I needed to exfoliate in the shower, then I had to wait till it soaked in or it would wreck my clothes. It smelled weird. About 3 minutes after I began my "slimming regime", I was reminded that I DON'T FUCKING CARE ABOUT CELLULITE. I have never once observed it on someone else and pitied her. It has never undercut the inherent sexiness of anyone I've ever met. Dammit, I'm half inclined to like my cellulite. I mean, it's hard won. BTW, I have slim legs. I'm known for my slim legs. And I exercise them daily. So if I have cellulite under these circumstances, who the fuck doesn't?

Anyway, I threw that shit in the garbage and started wearing short shorts. The Man's not gonna smother me. The end.

Which leads me, in a very round about way, to my next point:

So-called back fat can be the result of a number of factors, many of them out of your control. Some people just store body fat there. Others don't have fat, so much as they lack tone. It stands to reason that women who have large breasts as a result of weight (vs. those who are genetically predisposed) are more likely to carry flesh around the entire torso, not simply the breasts. The phenomenon seems to be enhanced by fluctuating hormones (pregnancy, peri-menopause). Short waisted women seem especially prone to it. And, one of the things that seems to pull said fat right out of the air, is a firm bra band. (You'll recall from 8 zillion previous posts, firm bra bands are de rigeur as far as I'm concerned.)

Alas - and here's the rub - women with large breasts (all women really, but this is pronounced amongst this subset) need a firm band to provide the support (along with good underwires and cups that fit and secure straps) required when they're carrying around quite a few pounds on the fronts of their chests. I'll go one step further. Depending on your tits and your overall shape, you might actually need a tight band. (Not cut-off-your circulation tight, but a couple of steps removed.)

Unless it is extremely observable - and, trust me, it generally isn't - I'm going to notice (and judge, let's tell it straight) your unsupported boobs 8000 times faster than I'll notice your back fat.

Why? Because I'm apt to see your tits first. Because saggy tits are unsightly and avoidable. And because I recognize that women have flesh on their torsos made somewhat more visible by the compression of specific parts of that torso. By contrast with the part of your back compressed by the bra band, your back below your bra band may have somewhat more profile than you'd like. But it's not wrong and it's not unattractive (unless it's excessive, let me reiterate. And "excessive" is generally the result of a poor fitting bra.)

I did an experiment recently on my mother. The woman's gonna smack me when she reads this but, as she's on the Camino for the next 5 weeks, I'm going to take my life into my hands. My mother is - sorry Ma - a total wuss when it comes to supportive bra bands. Lord, it's thankless shopping with her. I won't get into the details but she really can't get with the "I can feel my bra band and it's ok" philosophy.

When I visited recently we went shopping for new bras. (Despite the fact that she doesn't appreciate my methods, I'm the only one she'll bra shop with. Go figure.) We found a few that fit really nicely - uplifting, nice shape, attractive - but my mother was unconvinced. For starters, the band was so "noticeable", said she. She was also unhappy that we sized up in a cup and sized down in the band on the premise that she didn't like the new letter. It didn't matter that I explained how cup size is volume based and is always linked to band size. Smaller band = smaller volume in the cup, which is why we have to size up in one when we size down in the other.

Anyway, I couldn't stand it anymore. I made her put on her old bra (loose band, stretched to hell), took out a pen and marked the point at which her breasts abutted her torso. Then, I got her to put on the new bra and I marked the spot where her breasts abutted in it. The bra with the band that fit had her breasts up 4 inches higher than the other.

This isn't rocket science people. It's simple engineering. FYI, she bought the new bra.

(BTW, don't you think that was a smart way to prove my point?! Pictures speak louder than words.)

OK, back to back fat. If it comes down to elevating your breasts by 4 inches vs. seeing a bit of differentiation between the part of your torso covered by a bra strap and the part of your torso above and below it, I'll let you decide which you prefer.

Now, I'm not all: back fat exists, deal with it. I do have ideas about how to mitigate its appearance and to improve smoothness under clothing by choosing the most appropriate undergarments. And I don't mean Spanx.

This is the subject of my next post so please stay tuned.

And do let me know about your thoughts on this topic. I sense it brings up a lot of strong feelings so I'd like to know which of you are on my side of the fence (it's no big deal) and which of you shiver at the thought of it.