Bra Review: Scantilly Surrender

So far, I LOVE Scantilly. The quality is about as good as it gets (before you start spending $$, for example, on luxe brands such as Empreinte). The bras are sexy, lovely, comfortable, supportive and, the two styles I've tried so far (this Surrender and Peek A Boo), provide great shape and uplift. Lest you are under any illusions, my bra rating standards are very high. I'm not overselling this. If you're on the fence, and you seem to be within the size and shape parameters, click buy.

The bra in question today is the Surrender. Initially I bought it in my "regular" bra size and - as with every other Curvy Kate (same parent company as Scantilly) and each Scantilly bra I've tried - it was too shallow by a cup size. I returned it for one cup size up and the fit is fantastic. The band is true to size but on the snug side. By snug, I don't mean "Cleo snug" (which is basically a band size smaller than whatever the tag says). This is a true 32 (which stretches to 32.5") but has great firmness due to the recovery properties of the mesh. It's also a 3x3 hook. So it's more supportive and comfortable than any Cleo you'll find (not that I feel that Cleo bras fall short in support).

A couple of other sizing deets:

• The wires are a smidge wider than those I regularly wear (6.75" from tip to tip) but that's because the gore is lower than those I generally wear (2.5"). It's more or less a plunge but the support provided by the upper cup - which looks delicate but is sturdy - and the strapping above the upper cup imply that it would likely be suitable for breasts that are on the softer side. Note: My breast tissue isn't particularly soft so this is my intuition. YMMV. The wire shape is not as "U" as I usually wear - the outer wires splay out slightly at the top but it's not a problem for me. Perhaps I'm experiencing shape changes in that area? If yes, they're not observable but brands that use slightly wider wires are working better for me now than they ever did before.

• In a cup size up, this bra provides a LOT of centre-cup projection for a gore that tacks beautifully. It's also got a lot of lower cup projection (almost too much for me). The shape is seriously front and centre. Essentially, the style caters to an even breast that's full all over. 

• This cut isn't balconette (it's more of a full plunge) so the wires aren't set particularly wide (as can be the case with serious balconettes and demi-cup bras). So if your shoulders are proportionately narrow, it's a good option.

• A brief word about the thong undies: Size down! I often wear an XL in thongs because, as you know, I hate grippy undies. But these are very loose. I returned the L for a M and it's like an L, IMO. Scantilly is making good use of the stretch satin that defines the Peek A Boo sling. It's the fabric used to form the waistband of the thong. It's about an inch wide so this isn't, by design, of a grippy predisposition. The eyelash and embroidered elements on the upper cup of the bra are reproduced on the (minimal) thong and the impact is lovely.

• The upper cup does not have any stretch but the decorative strap above the upper cup is made of that black stretch satin (see above) and it does stretch / is proportionately long. That's good news if you have tall roots, quite a bit of upper cup fullness or you happen to be tall. If you have short roots or you're short, you may find that they gape or hang. You can fix easily this by undoing the seam at the top outer cup and shortening the span. For me, it's not necessary but if the above-upper cup straps were any longer, it would be.

But how about some photos before we talk about the set itself?

You can see the peach embroidery and eyelash lace motif repeated on the upper cup and undies...

This may give you a sense of the gore height (low-ish) and that upper cup strap decorative detail.

Can you see how delicate it looks? It's actually rather firm fabric. It is totally see-through. You can get a sense of the degree of centre-cup depth from this photo. I'm pulling that cup straight up, not out.

You can see that the undies aren't exactly "full". This is a minimal thong. The blush coloured circular metal hardware on the bra (where the straps meet the upper cup - see first photo) is duplicated at the sides of the front panel on the undies (where the triangle of fabric meets the side strap). It's a bit of toughness on an otherwise delicate design.

While I bought this set for a certain application, I sense I'm going to wear it all the time. It's totally comfortable, supportive and entirely sexy. The only thing I need to determine is how observable the decorative strap may be under clothing. While I have no issues with seams or nipples showing through, BDSM design elements (however demure) are not something I'm inclined to promote in the workplace. On the weekends? I'm down with that.

You may recall, at first I considered buying the basque version of this set. I opted not to because, really, it's impractical. (Yeah, I know. On rereading that sentence, it does sound a bit absurd.) Now I think I may have to get that version too! Note to reader: I will exercise restraint because there are too many new things to explore. This ain't the only pretty bra in town.

On the topic of how it looks: It's less full-seeming and more plungey on me (than on the model). But then her body is different than mine. This design is an exercise in soft and hard. The lace and peach embroidery are very delicate. The pink gold hardware and decorative strap are hard. The satin accents allow disparate elements to cohere. The fabric is entirely transparent, as you can see.

This set is analogous to a complicated glass of wine. It isn't easy which is just what makes it fun. Every sip promotes a new awareness on the tongue, a new subnote. There's a lot to get with here and it is in no way boring. I feel it's a good design for women of all ages. There are youthful elements but also very sophisticated ones.

You do need to own it though. If you're not into lingerie as art this set could seem contrived or intimidating. For me, though, it's a daily basic! So you see it takes all types.

But what about you? What are your feelings about the look of this set (or the feel, if you've bought it)? Let's talk!

In Which I Recount an Experience that No Organized Shopper Should Have to Live Through

Oh, Lord. I just got back from 5 hours at the mall. Yorkdale, to be exact. How could this happen?, I know you are mentally inquiring right now. Aren't I the one who's urged you all to shop from the comfort of your couch? With booze.

In my entire life have I never gone to the mall a week before Xmas. I mean, I won't go to the mall at the best of times, never mind after November 15. And yet, I spent the day there today. From 10 till 3, you know, the witching hours. (At least I assume them to be.)

I ate hideous food and stood on a 20 minute line at Starbucks. I got smacked into by young children and clueless men shopping with young children and was up-sold about 30 times. I did not capitulate. I actively handled the tried'n'true Kristin-anxiety triple threat: crowds, bright lights and noise. (Did I mention that I'm dealing with some ridiculous and recently-arrived, symmetrical sacral pain for the past few days - one of those kinds of pain I NEVER get.)

Really, I kicked ass - though maybe not according to my child, the reason I found myself at the mall 4 days before Christmas. You see, she wanted to go shopping for fun things she "needs". Note to reader: She needs NOTHING. In fact, her room is a tornado of all of the kinds of fast fashion she somehow manages to procure on an ill-deserved allowance. She won't even put anything away so it all lives in piles on the floor. Ditching the old and worn for the new and improved is not a thing that the little hoarder can get with.

I played hard and negotiated a deal: One thing in for one thing out. And then she somehow convinced me to buy her all the things at Sephora and half of the things at Top Shop. She even coerced me into some technical cashmere at a Kit and Ace pop-up shop. (Since when does the mall do pop-up shops??) I'll admit it. I caved. In addition to her loot, I bought myself a top (and I know I always say this, but it looks better on me than on the model in the link. Does every model need to be entirely without profile?). Moreover, what is the world coming to when you buy a glorified T shirt for a hundred bucks? For a teenager.

While we're on the topic, I've already bought her numerous LOVELY gifts that I know she'll enjoy. Those were the things I got while surfing on the couch.

But here's where it all went to hell...

We went bra shopping.

OK, we didn't so much go bra shopping as we went to La Senza (a store I'd eradicate from the face of the earth if I had superhuman powers for 5 minutes). And then we went to Victoria's Secret - a shop with some pretty sexy things (in the pricey section) if you happen to fit the the matrix sizing - which 5 people do. (Note: none of those things is padded or push up.)

I have to preface this by advising you that my child has the most gorgeous bust ever. I know it doesn't matter and that one's heart is the thing that counts and I'm not supposed to notice or care. But really, she won the lottery. Her boobs are self-supporting, perfectly symmetrical, truly high-set. She can wear a 32DD (sort of findable) though her size is more of a 30E (actually, it's 28F but she can't stand the tightness of the band as she has no fat to speak of). I would happily buy her all of the gorgeous things online, without question - just for the vicarious thrill!, but she refuses to comply.

Instead, she goes to the SHITTIEST stores and buys 34D bras with massive amounts of padding and it's a fucking crime. If I had those boobs I would be lavishing them in well-fitted gorgeousness.

Yeah, I know. They're not my boobs and I'd never heap this vitriol on a friend. Furthermore, who better to wear the wrong size bra than the person who doesn't really need one for either support or shaping.

And still, I felt utterly demoralized.

Don't you think that the one thing I should have passed along to my child is the gift of fit discrimination? The other day, I played a little trick on her. We were talking about something irrelevant and, all of a sudden, I quizzed her to name a sister size to 34F. By the way, SHE GOT IT RIGHT in 2 seconds! So I know she's not ignoring everything. But why does she hurt me so?

At any rate, I capitulated to one La Senza atrocity. Then I made her go to the Bay with me and we fought about every bra there. Every. single. fucking. last. one. I bribed her into trying on a few that I could get with (barely) by agreeing to get her a stupid bralet that's basically dental floss and lace. (In truth, she can pull it off so it didn't torment me as much as I'd led her to believe.) Every other bra I brought her to try (and I made sure to go with the B. tempted and all of that youth-market shit) looked fantastic on her. And yet she would only accede to this one (which is very cute on her - not mature at all):

Wacoal Embrace Lace Soft Cup Bra

Every week, on the sub-reddit A Bra That Fits, there's a post from some young girl who wishes her mother would believe her when she says she's not a 36C. These girls write plaintively about how they would so love just one bra in the right size but they simply can't afford it. Here am I, parentally committed to the gift of perfect fit (a promise I made to my child in her first days of life - though I know that sounds ridiculous to say) and she simply doesn't care.

First world problems. Huh?

The Bra Adventures: I'll Be The Judge of That

So, for the past 10 days I was at jury duty - 6 of those days were spent participating in an actual criminal trial and, let me tell you, it was fascinating. No, Law and Order it is not. But I have so much respect for this democratic convention. My fellow jurors were intelligent, caring, thoughtful and they approached the process with fairness and an open mind. I highly encourage everyone to embrace jury duty (as long as it does not put you in a position of financial hardship, of course)...

On other matters, my spirit of judgement is alive and well - when it comes to lingerie! (How's that for a dicey segue?)

To wit, my latest - the Retro Chic Full Cup Bra from Wacoal - which comes, of course, with a story:

Photo from here (not where I bought it) - this is the "cappuccino" colourway cuz I couldn't find a decent shot of the beige. I do like the fact that this small woman has an actual, ample bust.

I know - right now you're thinking one or all of the following things:

• That bra is splendidly ugly.
• Doesn't Kristin constantly go on about her hatred of the Wacoal brand (despite knowing that Wacoal purchased Eveden - the parent of numerous other brands she's liked)?
• That's a 2-piece cup. I thought three-piece cups were better from a fit perspective.
• How much money did she spend on that thing?

Allow me to address each of these.

I am diligently on the hunt for a new "nude" bra. I have one left and it's on its last legs. I'm actually about a week away from panicking over its demise, and the impending hole in my wardrobe, so keep your fingers crossed. And, as they say, desperate times call for desperate measures. 

Now, having conceded that, I'm not insane. I did go to the store to try this thing on. It's one of those bras, like the Triumph Doreen, that you must wear lest it wear you. And, my friends, if it wears you it's a bad scene.

Here's what I can say: The versions of this bra in contrast colours (black/white, rose/white etc.) are potentially very unflattering to a large bust, given the two piece construction. This bra provides a pointy shape. Often, pointy bras are seemed horizontally over the midline of the bust with the larger cup being on the bottom (naturally) and the top cup pushing breast tissue down (delicately, of course), towards the centre seam. This is a common way that seaming is used to achieve a retro shape. In women of larger breasts, the downward-pull pushes a lot of volume into the lower cup, enhancing its appearance (particularly when clothes are not on). When the lower cup is in a darker contrast colour, that appearance is magnified still further. 

I think the beige colour is very flattering against my skin-tone. It's also very easy to match with numerous undies I already own. Furthermore, the straps are fairly delicate (maybe in contrast to the tank-quality of the rest of the bra). Because the beige version is more or less monotone, it doesn't over-emphasize the lower cup. But don't be mistaken, it's definitely a bra that goes in that direction. Like I said, you have to work your 1950s sexy when you wear this. You can only wear it in that spirit and to project that attitude.

Now, if your breasts are large, heavy, dense and very full on the bottom - this bra can look bad. (It can also look good - fit is very personal - but be advised, it has a lot of matronly potential.) Further in response to the claim that it is ugly, this bra is SO high in the upper cup that you cannot wear a scoopy shirt. I'm cool with that. I have lots of tops that it will work very well underneath (namely zillions of sweaters and crew tops I own). The gore is very high (but so are the cups, so the proportion isn't odd like it can be with certain Panache styles, for example). You could wear it with a blouse, just nothing that goes much below the breastbone. This bra is meant to repress cleavage, not to encourage it.

I sense I'm not helping to dispel the idea that this bra is ugly.

So let's move on to the topic of my omnipresent displeasure with Wacoal. A while ago, I took a friend for bra-fitting and we purchased this style for her in the black and white colourway. It looks surprisingly elegant on breasts in the 34C-36DD range, fyi. I observed, at that time, that the bra is very stable with a fantastic, firm (and wide) band. It is well-constructed from good materials. It's old-school and, in that respect, of good quality. The matching undies complete the retro look. BTW, it's not insanely pointy by any stretch. I've seen way pointier in my time.  What I also appreciate about this bra, my feelings about the brand notwithstanding, is that it comes in a wide range of sizes, and it's available at most department stores. Sure, Wacoal does ridiculous sizing - A-D, DD, DDD and then F and G (I think it stops there and, what's bizarre is that the seems to be half US and half UK) - but it's readily available and affordable. 

I'm a bit anxious about my recent purchase (story will follow) because Veronica purchased one about a year ago and she said it doesn't lift well and that one's breasts tend to descend in the course of the day. Needless to say, that's a deal breaker, but neither of us can say, at this point, if she got a bad bra or if it's bad design. I guess I'll be the guinea pig.

Getting back to the two- vs three- (or more) piece cup debate, three-piece cups (depending on a variety of factors) will fit a wider range of breast shapes with a more natural silhouette. They also tend to provide more projection. So yeah, I almost NEVER opt for a 2-piece cup (given my size and shape), but it has its place. It really does provide that lovely ski-slope silhouette.

Finally, do not imagine that I spent the standard retail price on this bra. In Canada, it goes for $75 at the big box stores. That's a fair price for the quality, I think (if it actually keeps gravity at bay). I found a NWT one on eBay for 30 bucks all in. That's my kind of experiment. 

So, today's questions: Have you tried this bra, owned this bra, thought of burning this bra? Are you aware that Butterfly Collection is selling it online in a beautiful colourway (though, again, mind if you're above a DD cuz the contrast may emphasize lower bust volume). Do you think it's hideous, jolie-laide or kind of cool (in a retro way)? Let's talk!

PS: Totally off topic - Figleaves is having a very good sale on the Panache Jasmine (in the floral colourway). The set is 30% off! Do let me know if you opt to get it. You can refer to my review of the bra (in the bird pattern) here.

The Bra Adventures: An Introduction

At the risk of turning into one of those people who puts the prefix "br" in front of everything, I've entered a new phase in my lingerie life: that of bradventurism. Or, bradventurisme, for the Euro among us. Let me explain.

In the fall of 2012, I hosted the online Lingerie Shop Along, a very enjoyable community experience that saw me into a pretty bad health moment. Alas, it was most definitely the worst online lingerie-purchasing experience I've ever had (largely because of suboptimal fitting and shipping experiences - not because the products or vendors were in any way lacking).  In truth, I was not at my most emotionally resilient at that time, and I was somewhat dismayed by my failure to fit into basically anything I ordered, due to poor sizing in every direction.

I was in a challenging place. Much of my pre-owned lingerie was either: at the edge of over-worn, too-small (and put away in the "not now" drawer), not quite supportive enough, or just not exciting anymore. Yeah, I do own 3 sizes of lingerie at any given time, and in the fall, I had 40-odd sets, but many of those bras were my "continuity" styles. I'd bought them a couple of times over or had a couple of the same styles in my stash. I was verging on a rut, somehow.

Add to this that my body had lost a lot of weight (from sickness) - and now it's rebounded from that due to constant eating of delicious food, thank you very much - plus the fact that I'm almost 43 and I have a teenager, whom I birthed... Well, my body has gone (and is going) through some changes.

Over the years, I'd used online shopping mainly to repurchase bras I'd owned (via trying them on first in boutiques) or those made by my core brand (that always fit well), Freya. By last winter, it had been so long since I'd been to a real shop to try something on - not to mention that Freya's not at a high point from the quality or fit perspective these days - that I was wondering what the fuck had happened to all of the good bras.

Many of you know, since I talk about it compulsively, that I went for a fitting (not my first, by a long shot, but my first in a couple of years) in a bricks and mortar shop. This experience was very useful in as much as it introduced me to the fit of Empreinte (a brand I'd always wanted to try but couldn't find at a reasonable price, so I'd avoided it) and reminded me about a few others I'd forgotten about (Fantasie, Prima Donna, Fauve). I discovered that there are many good bras out there for me. Somehow, though, they all appear to be in the mega-pricey category. What a shock.

So how have I embraced the adventure?

• First off, I left the bra boutique with 650.00 bucks-worth of lingerie (3 bras and a pair of undies) and a renewed sense of purpose.

• I found wonderful new homes for 15 bras, via my recent sale. I also deconstructed 3 bras for wires and other materials. Then I moved a couple of bras I do love, but which are moving towards too loose due to overwear, into the "not now" drawer. This left me with 18 bras (10 fashion sets and 8 basics).

• I started reading my myriad daily lingerie blogs, not just for interesting discussion but possible product discovery.

• I decided that Freya is off limits unless a) I can try the bra on in a shop and b) only if it compels me. Last time that happened was with the Arabella, quite a long while ago.

• I realized that lingerie flips my switch like just about nothing else so I'd better indulge that. You only live once and your tits aren't getting any perkier.

• I recognized that many of you appreciate my endless ramblings about bras and fit and decided to rename my bra habit "public service". Just goes to show you that I can convince myself of anything :-)

• Really, though, to buy a bra online - esp. if it's on sale - can be a very affordable experience. If it's returnable, the likelihood is that I'll be out 20 bucks in shipping and a lunch trip to the post office. And given that getting parcels is the most freakin' fun thing ever, I decided that online bra shopping is my version of going to the movies. Entertainment.

But the name of this adventure is Novelty. I want to learn about new brands I've seen but never tried. I want to discover crazy new things. I want to be able to advise those of you who are actively looking for bras with various features about the viability of any particular brand.

In this spirit, I've purchased 5 sets online recently (all at very good prices) and gone to bricks and mortar shops 4 times (no purchases, but lots of info gathering). So far 2 sets have arrived and I've sent both of them back. You're going to hear about those experiences in detail - about all of the experimental sets and the brands with their various biases. I'm just finding it challenging to knit shawls, make muslins and jackets and blog about lingerie - all at the same time!

The new brands I've tried recently are: Empreinte, Cleo (well, I'd tried it before, but not recently), Fauve and Claudette. I'm waiting on delivery of new styles of Empreinte, Cleo and (that boobs-on-a-plate maestro) Ewa Michalak.

For sure, I've integrated my recent acceptance of Bratabase with this experience in the hopes that I'll be able to verify how accurate the database is (fairly accurate, I suspect) - and so that I won't be buying "blind". I'll chat about this more in upcoming posts, but I was amazed - when entering info into Bratabase - to discover that practically every bra I own has the same fundamental dimensions (regardless of tag size, brand or style). This gives me some awesome info to work with. Especially if I use that sizing against reviews of bras on Bratabase and blogs before I purchase online.

I really don't know what's going to come of this but I'm energized to see if there's a better way to determine fit before buying sight unseen. In a worst case scenario, I'll go into b&m boutiques, try everything on, buy one of something (as a show of support), and then find the items that work for a third to half the price online.

Today's questions: What lingerie brand is piquing your interest lately? Have you had the chance to try it or are you waiting to learn more first? Who knows, maybe I'll do a little review. Let's talk!