Bra Review: Scantilly Surrender

So far, I LOVE Scantilly. The quality is about as good as it gets (before you start spending $$, for example, on luxe brands such as Empreinte). The bras are sexy, lovely, comfortable, supportive and, the two styles I've tried so far (this Surrender and Peek A Boo), provide great shape and uplift. Lest you are under any illusions, my bra rating standards are very high. I'm not overselling this. If you're on the fence, and you seem to be within the size and shape parameters, click buy.

The bra in question today is the Surrender. Initially I bought it in my "regular" bra size and - as with every other Curvy Kate (same parent company as Scantilly) and each Scantilly bra I've tried - it was too shallow by a cup size. I returned it for one cup size up and the fit is fantastic. The band is true to size but on the snug side. By snug, I don't mean "Cleo snug" (which is basically a band size smaller than whatever the tag says). This is a true 32 (which stretches to 32.5") but has great firmness due to the recovery properties of the mesh. It's also a 3x3 hook. So it's more supportive and comfortable than any Cleo you'll find (not that I feel that Cleo bras fall short in support).

A couple of other sizing deets:

• The wires are a smidge wider than those I regularly wear (6.75" from tip to tip) but that's because the gore is lower than those I generally wear (2.5"). It's more or less a plunge but the support provided by the upper cup - which looks delicate but is sturdy - and the strapping above the upper cup imply that it would likely be suitable for breasts that are on the softer side. Note: My breast tissue isn't particularly soft so this is my intuition. YMMV. The wire shape is not as "U" as I usually wear - the outer wires splay out slightly at the top but it's not a problem for me. Perhaps I'm experiencing shape changes in that area? If yes, they're not observable but brands that use slightly wider wires are working better for me now than they ever did before.

• In a cup size up, this bra provides a LOT of centre-cup projection for a gore that tacks beautifully. It's also got a lot of lower cup projection (almost too much for me). The shape is seriously front and centre. Essentially, the style caters to an even breast that's full all over. 

• This cut isn't balconette (it's more of a full plunge) so the wires aren't set particularly wide (as can be the case with serious balconettes and demi-cup bras). So if your shoulders are proportionately narrow, it's a good option.

• A brief word about the thong undies: Size down! I often wear an XL in thongs because, as you know, I hate grippy undies. But these are very loose. I returned the L for a M and it's like an L, IMO. Scantilly is making good use of the stretch satin that defines the Peek A Boo sling. It's the fabric used to form the waistband of the thong. It's about an inch wide so this isn't, by design, of a grippy predisposition. The eyelash and embroidered elements on the upper cup of the bra are reproduced on the (minimal) thong and the impact is lovely.

• The upper cup does not have any stretch but the decorative strap above the upper cup is made of that black stretch satin (see above) and it does stretch / is proportionately long. That's good news if you have tall roots, quite a bit of upper cup fullness or you happen to be tall. If you have short roots or you're short, you may find that they gape or hang. You can fix easily this by undoing the seam at the top outer cup and shortening the span. For me, it's not necessary but if the above-upper cup straps were any longer, it would be.

But how about some photos before we talk about the set itself?

You can see the peach embroidery and eyelash lace motif repeated on the upper cup and undies...

This may give you a sense of the gore height (low-ish) and that upper cup strap decorative detail.

Can you see how delicate it looks? It's actually rather firm fabric. It is totally see-through. You can get a sense of the degree of centre-cup depth from this photo. I'm pulling that cup straight up, not out.

You can see that the undies aren't exactly "full". This is a minimal thong. The blush coloured circular metal hardware on the bra (where the straps meet the upper cup - see first photo) is duplicated at the sides of the front panel on the undies (where the triangle of fabric meets the side strap). It's a bit of toughness on an otherwise delicate design.

While I bought this set for a certain application, I sense I'm going to wear it all the time. It's totally comfortable, supportive and entirely sexy. The only thing I need to determine is how observable the decorative strap may be under clothing. While I have no issues with seams or nipples showing through, BDSM design elements (however demure) are not something I'm inclined to promote in the workplace. On the weekends? I'm down with that.

You may recall, at first I considered buying the basque version of this set. I opted not to because, really, it's impractical. (Yeah, I know. On rereading that sentence, it does sound a bit absurd.) Now I think I may have to get that version too! Note to reader: I will exercise restraint because there are too many new things to explore. This ain't the only pretty bra in town.

On the topic of how it looks: It's less full-seeming and more plungey on me (than on the model). But then her body is different than mine. This design is an exercise in soft and hard. The lace and peach embroidery are very delicate. The pink gold hardware and decorative strap are hard. The satin accents allow disparate elements to cohere. The fabric is entirely transparent, as you can see.

This set is analogous to a complicated glass of wine. It isn't easy which is just what makes it fun. Every sip promotes a new awareness on the tongue, a new subnote. There's a lot to get with here and it is in no way boring. I feel it's a good design for women of all ages. There are youthful elements but also very sophisticated ones.

You do need to own it though. If you're not into lingerie as art this set could seem contrived or intimidating. For me, though, it's a daily basic! So you see it takes all types.

But what about you? What are your feelings about the look of this set (or the feel, if you've bought it)? Let's talk!

Bra Review: Miss Mandalay Paris

OK, I'm about to start a long weekend of sewing (unless I'm so bamboozled by the weather that I spend it drinking on patios instead), but to mix it up a bit, I thought I'd provide a bra review of a new lingerie set that a) I've bought before (though long ago) and b) which I just repurchased - with some success.

The set in question is the Miss Mandalay Paris:

Miss Mandalay Paris

In case you think that bra looks exactly like the Miss Mandalay Paige, you'd be correct. It appears that this brand currently makes a very small complement of lingerie sets - fewer than it used to - as its swimwear line has really stolen the show.

No mind. They still make the Paris, my fave. When last I bought it it was in a cerise with leopard details. Oh, I did love that bra. Alas, it was always a small fit (one is urged to size up in band and cup when buying MM bras) and it hasn't been worn in a long while. I recently sold it. That's when I was reminded of my love for its simple sexiness.

In truth, I would have preferred to buy it in a majestic purple (not generally my thing but it's so jewel-y) or in the cobalt colourway. Alas, those bras (on sale) did not come in my size. In fact, the only place I can find the bras, at this point, is on the Miss Mandalay website (unlike the swimwear which is easier to source online).

First Up: How it Looks

It's a great looking bra. The shape is awesome. It provides lift and support. It's round, though it's unlined and with seams. The wires aren't wide (haven't measured this for Bratabase yet, but I sense that they're 5.7 inches wide cuz they fit me perfectly). They enclose everything and they provide perfect side-height for me - I like side height because I hate feeling like any breast tissue can escape! The materials are very nice - not Empreinte nice but much luxer than Cleo. I do feel that the quality is a smidge less high than that of my original set (when it comes to the ribbon detail at the top of the cup). It's not hugely notable but, given that I bought this set originally for 60 bucks and now, 3 years later, this one cost me $150, I do question any drop in quality.

The pink is highly saturated. If you do not like pink (or girliness in general) do not buy this set in this colour. I did so as an experiment, mostly to determine whether they've retained their original sizing and shape. On that topic, I've been looking for alternatives to Cleo and Empreinte (my go-tos) because many narrow-breasted, projected ladies have had their fill of Cleo and really don't want to invest in Empreinte. I'm seeking out a middle ground for us all. I agree that $150.00 is not cheap but, if the quality and design warrant it, then I hope you'll agree it's a reasonable mid point between the Cleo sets that one can purchase for $50-$75 bucks and the Empreinte ones that'll run you $350.

Had I not got my first set for $60 - admittedly a steal and 3 years ago - I think I'd have been a bit less grumpy to have spent 150 bucks this time. Having said that, I would buy on sale in a second, recognizing that there aren't that many of these bras produced and when the sales hit, you must pounce (ask me how I know).

This set is really sexy though entirely unembellished. It's FUN. It's youthful (though not priced for the young). It's chic.

But How Does it Fit?

Like I said, last time I bought this I found it snug and my breasts were a different size and shape back then. This time, on doing my research, I read many accounts that one should size up in band and cup by at least one size in each. Point being: This bra fits very small for size. I considered my former bra (which I felt, even when it fit, could have been half a size larger) and opted to go up 2 cups sizes and one band size. When I've done this in the past, it's always been an unmitigated disaster, but it seemed consistent with my reading and personal experience.

It was entirely the right decision. This bra fits beautifully. It's snug (but not tight) in the band. Because it is a closed upper cup (that ribbon is a challenge for those with upper fullness), if I'd gone any smaller, it would have pushed on breast tissue and caused a ridge. The gore tacks really well (and it's narrow). It's incredibly comfortable (something I cannot say for the last one, which was always too snug).

You can see the seaming under some tops but you know I don't care about that. It does bring the breasts up and forward but not to the extent that Cleo does. It produces a more subtle shape.

I'll totally buy this again - when I find a colourway that really appeals (they've recently cycled through a bunch of colours I do wish I'd purchased when they were available in my size - so who knows when they'll come back round to bright orange or cobalt). This set would be dynamite in an animal print (though it usually comes in a solid). The size range is from 28E to 38GG. BTW, if you're a person with a 25-26 inch band size, this is the company for you because the bands are super tight so a 28 would work.

A word of caution about the undies. They too run very small for size. I bought a large, which certainly fits, but I loathe the feeling of grippy elastic and the mesh fabric has reasonably little, 2-way stretch so next time I would get the XL. Furthermore, you get one option - a standard issue low-rise brief. My last set had a thong option (my preference) but it seems not to be on offer any longer. Alas, I cannot say that this brand caters to the largest portion of the market as one is effectively sized out at a 36G (which requires a Miss M 38GG). But it's not every brand's job to suit every woman. It's too bad though, because I think this bra would be easily scalable, given the firmness of the materials and the design, to at least a 40 band and HH cups.

Today's questions: Have you tried Miss Mandalay for bras or swimwear? Have you tried the Paris? If yes, what are your thoughts? Furthermore, do you feel this would be a good option for you (if you haven't tried it), provide you fall into the size range? What I mean is, does this seem like good value to you? Curious to know if this hits a sweet spot (not too expensive but good quality overall) or if you think that $150 for a set is as crazy-ass as spending $350? (UK peeps - as always, you luck out - MM is way cheaper for you to buy in your currency, in your country of origin.)

Bra Review: Empreinte Emily (Balconette Cut)

I'm not a serious art person. I mean, I have a subscription to the AGO and I go to see the latest exhibits that I hear about, but it's no true fixation. Having said this, what I would give to have a ticket to England in the next five weeks to see Dismaland. The distopian grandeur! And it's mere miles away from where I went to boarding school (a place I do intend to revisit soon - like if the British pound ever goes below 2 dollars CDN). If only Banksy could have been a little less secret-agent spy (yeah, I know that's not his thing) - or this installation a little more local. No question, it's dark - and not for kids - but I love art that hurts a little, that pushes the boundaries. Not to mention art that can be followed by an awesome (and not distopian) tasting menu at a boutique hotel. Please UK readers, go see it and tell us what it's like.

On a totally different note, you may be pleased to know that the substance of this post is not about the distopian but about the happy collusion of right place, right time and right size...

Sometimes the bra goddess smiles upon you, and happily that's what happened to me a couple of days ago... My Empreinte Emily balconette arrived, not quickly, mind you (so my anticipation was all amped up), and it is a thing of beauty that fits perfectly.

Sure, I do this online bra buying thing routinely. And I do know how my core brands tend to fit in their various styles. Having said this, the Emily is an Empreinte style I've never seen, either in store or online. I think it must be discontinued. On my seemingly-endless quest for replacement black bras, it was one of the options I discovered.

Sidebar: On the topic of restocking the black bra hole in my wardrobe, I'm happy to say that the drought is done. Between the Freya Rio, the Prima Donna Divine and this Empreinte Emily - not to mention that my Roxane will last for a while yet, as I won't need to wear it 3 times a week - I've got an array of daily options to meet all of my needs in black. Best thing is that 2 of these bras are replaceable, should I choose to repurchase them. Yeah, I know, a woman with 30 bras that fit (some of them basics, some of them colours) should probably not freak out when she's down to 1 daily black bra (I do have a couple that I wear infrequently), but I take this seriously, people. I need to be ready for anything.

Back to the Emily: I couldn't find a decent pic of it online. I believe there's a full-cup version as well as the balconette. As with all the Empreinte full-cups, it looks matronly to me so I can't recommend it. It's amazing what a difference there is, IMO, between the full and balconette styles of the same bra. I have reasonably short breast roots, which is why a balconette is inevitably my best fit. Thing is, Empreinte is not skimpy. Its balconettes are on the fuller side, IMO, when it comes to cup height. So the full cups are seriously too much bra for me.

See how the lace makes up a good portion of the bra cup. That upper cup is of a different shape and at a different angle (slightly) than the other Empreintes I've tried.

Looks delicate. Wears hard.

You can see the close-setness of the gore. Also, it's pretty apparent from this shot that the balconette does not veer into demi-cup territory. It's, in my perspective, a "full balconette" - the kind the UK manufacturers love to produce...

Photographing black bras is challenging. I don't know how doing it on a black table can yield a better result than on a pale wood floor, but there you go... The fabric is quite lovely, especially the satin band. I don't love that appliqued florette at the gore. I sense I'll be removing it.

This bra is definitely a basic. What do I mean by that? Well, it isn't sheer or all lace. It's discreet under clothing (re: seams, shape and fabric). While it's a terrific fit: it gives great lift, projection and support while also being extremely comfortable - it's not the sexiest bra I own. Please don't misunderstand, it's a really nice undergarment and those with a different definition of "sexy bra" might find rather hot. To me, it's an elegant basic.

Unsurprisingly, since it fits perfectly, it conforms to all of my best measurements from cup width (6"), depth (11.5"), strap width (0.6"), wing height (4") to my preferred snug but not tight band (stretches MAX to 33" but more easily to 32") with 3 hooks and eyes. 

Band: The band fabric is ridiculously comfortable. The stretch satin is so soft - but firm and with excellent recovery.

Straps:The straps are embroidered for an interesting nuance. They're very strong, as always and, again, crazy comfortable. (See a theme here?)

Cups: The lace upper cup is of a slightly different shape than my other 3-cup Empreintes and attaches to the strap at a slightly different angle than most of my other bras (Empreinte or no). It gives it a lot of curve over the upper bust, while preserving centre cup depth. The end result is very flattering decollete. 

I don't know that you'll be able to find this style, but if you can - and Empreinte is your thing - snap it up. I'm sure you won't regret it...

Bra Review: Prima Donna Divine

I'm sure you can barely wait to hear about Black Bra Success take 2, so I'll cut to the chase.

The second bra I recently bought during my visit with Veronica is a SERIOUS outlier. Really. Y'all know I've never said a nice thing about Prima Donna. I mean, I'm not dissing the quality or questioning that the styles work for many. But every single Prima Donna I've ever tried has had a delightful combo of a) wussy wires, b) wires that are too wide and c) really centre-shallow cups. Like the gores do not tack under any circumstances cuz the shape is too wide, too shallow and effectively weak.

What a great way to start a post wherein I discuss my new Prima Donna bra!

OK, to preface the photo, allow me to say that I was not interested in trying on another PD (Veronica generally doesn't even bother with this brand for me) but I was DESPERATE. And desperate times call for, well, you know. Aren't I glad I expended a bit of effort I was almost certain would be wasted because this bra fits really well:

Prima Donna Divine

But never mind that I bought a bra by a brand I don't like. It's also molded and seamless - my other hate-ons. I suppose the only thing they could have done to make this less appealing to me is to have padded it!

V said: It's not like the other Prima Donnas. It's got a pretty narrow gore. It's quite deep. It's really firm. When I picked it up, to put it on, I wiggled the wires and they felt wussy. I was not on board. But then I tried the bra and I was amazed by the synergy of the crazily firm lace fabric, the snug band and the depth. And then I tried a cup size up (because, as I've said 8 zillion times - molded bras, those with no seams, are by nature more shallow than their counterparts with seams) and the fit was spot on.

I have only two points of unseamed / molded reference for the fit of this bra: Fantasie 4520 (about which I've written numerous times - it's my beige staple) and the Empreinte Melody (which I really tried to like but no dice). It's almost impossible to create an unpadded, unlined, seam-free shape that isn't a veritable pancake. It's even harder to do it with lace. And, to their credit, both PD and Empreinte have figured that engineering out.

But first lets talk about the detractors - as I see them - of the molded cup bra:

• I will never like the look (or fit, I suspect) of an unseamed, molded bra as much as one with seams. I love the curvature that seams produce. I much prefer the shape. I don't think boobs should look like spherical fruit. And yet I get it: there are times when a seam-free bra is really useful. Note: If you can't find one that fits - by which I mean your breast shape must conform to it, not the other way around - then I firmly advise you to give it a miss. But if you discover one that works, why not expand the catalog?

• I find them universally matronly by comparison with the seamed bras. Yeah, I'm sure this perspective is partially driven by my age and stage, but whatevs. I see a Victoria's Secret special and think ugh. The beauty of bras is in the shape distinctness provided by a myriad of fabric choices and seam placements. From this vantage point, I'm a tailor to my core.

• More to the point, the beauty of breasts is in the distinctness of the breasts. Once you compel breasts to fit the one-size/one-shape mold of a seam-free bra, what's the point?? Are we all the same? 

• Molded bras feel weird. It's like they have a life of their own - even if they're in that rare non-lined / non-padded minority. This gets back to that notion that the expectation is that breast must conform to it.

• They're almost universally on the shallow end of the spectrum, which is pretty well a non-starter if you need depth at the centre cup.

How does the PD Divine get around these issues?

• The Look: It's kind of pretty with that wacky lace motif. If you're going to make a molded bra - then damn well make it in lace. I can only imagine the technology that goes into molding the fabric (a chemical and heat process) without completely destroying it. Note: The lace of the Divine is much firmer (dare I say, less delicate, starchier-feeling) than that of its counterpart, the Empreinte Melody (which I find ugly, alas, and which is shallower for size than the Divine).

• The Vibe: I don't know that it overcomes the matronly factor. I still feel it - but the fit is very good (which never hurts the look of a bra). FWIW, my husband finds it rather sexy - though he does like the weirdest lingerie.

• The Fit Conundrum: The Divine cannot overcome the true downfall of the molded-cup bra: Your boobs are going to have to fit the shape perfectly, or the bra isn't going to fit. There's no nuance. And how many peeps have seriously round, evenly full, plump on top breasts? Well, in this bra, I do - apparently :-)

• The Feel: The seam-free lace has been molded into oblivion. It feels weird. I'm getting over it.

• The Depth: Now - this is the PURE GENIUS of the Divine - and the reason I am pleased, as a tailor, to have purchased it. The PD peeps have recognized that you cannot get narrow depth with a molded bra unless you come up with a work around. So they did something I've NEVER seen in any bra before. They added darts! Yeah, this bra is shallowly-darted on each cup in 2 places - at the under cup (about a 0.5 inch dart that's an inch long) and at the centre gore (same as the first dart). It's done expertly, so you cannot see either. The average client would never notice them, I'm sure. I mean, they do add an extra complexity to the feel of the bra against the skin. But like I said, molded fabric is weird. Note: It's not uncomfortable and it's totally invisible under clothing.

What do those darts do? Well, they act like freakin' SEAMS people. The reason this seam-free bra works is cuz it's got seamed shaping with none of the visibility of seams. I think that level of creativity almost justifies the $180 bucks (once tax is included) price tag.

Let me take a moment to delve a bit further into the cost proposition: As with Empreinte, it's pretty difficult to find inexpensive online versions of Prima Donna bras. It's not impossible, but it's rare. The reason I went to a boutique - and enlisted the services of a fitter in whom I have the utmost confidence and for whom I have total respect - is because I required her skills. She knows the brand. She's seen the style on numerous bodies. She can facilitate my trying it on in 2 cup sizes and 2 back sizes. That's value. And it's for that value that I'm paying. Yeah, if I opt to buy this bra again, will I at least try to seek it out online? Probably. But I want to ensure that fitters like Veronica continue to practice their very valuable - and undervalued - craft. You can't have it all ways. 

The shape of the Divine - for those of you who know the Empreinte Melody - is much deeper and a bit narrower. The straps are slender (unlike the comfort-wide monstrosities on the Melody). The Divine has a narrow band and 2 hooks and eyes (the Melody has 3). They're both comfortable. The Divine is more youthful and sexy. It comes in a bunch of colours, fyi, not that I'm likely to buy it in another shade. I have come to appreciate this bra increasingly with each wear - and it totally fits the black bra bill - but I'm never going to gravitate to its style. When I go colourful, I'm having my seams.

Bra Review: Freya Rio

OK, where were we? I last reviewed the Cleo Lucy, a sad shape mismatch. After realizing I was yet another option down, I got a bit flippy.

To recap very briefly, I've tried NUMEROUS black or blackesque bras, in an effort to replace my absolute faves - the Empreinte Roxane and the Empreinte Lola (link takes you to my post about the blush colourway) - neither of which is available any longer. I am horrified to tell you - and this has been corroborated by Veronica (my bra-fitter friend who's very in the know) that Empreinte appears to be falling under the spell of the shallow, round, molded style and their awesome offerings for very projected, close set, narrow breasts are being slowly phased out. Ugh. Here's hoping it retains a continuity line of the projected bras. At any rate, pounce while you can.

In the last year, I've tried on and/or purchased (and been underwhelmed by the fit of, on my body):

• Masquerade Persia (cups too tall)
• Avocado Mirabelle (wires too soft)
• Empreinte Melody (ugly and slightly too shallow, also too big in band)
• Charnos Cherub (wires too soft)
• Minnie (too big, underwires and underband too thick)
• Numerous other brands and styles, in store: Fantasie, Ewa Michalak, Prima Donna, Empreinte etc.

A couple of weeks ago, I hit a wall. Online shopping was not working and my Roxane (the only black bra that's still in regular rotation) is on its last hooks. So I went to see Veronica - best bra fitter evah - and tried on every freakin' black bra in the store.

I was not overly concerned about cost - well, natch I was concerned, but one has to give up on something at some point. My non-negotiable needs were these:

• Great lift, forward shape
• Perfect fit
• Excellent support
• Attractive
• Not too visible under snug clothing (not that I'm particularly a stickler on this)
• Of high quality (I want these things to last)

I walked away with two bras, one of which I'll review now, the next I'll review in another post.

Which one shall I start with? Freya Rio - aka the war horse:

Freya Rio

I'll begin by saying 2 things:

• This style was one of the first I ever wore when I started wearing bras that fit, 15 plus years ago. That was back when all of Freya's offerings were of very high quality (and more expensive) and the brand wasn't catering to the youth market specifically. It continues to be the one "original" bra they still make and it's made to the former standards of very high quality fabrics and construction. It also continues to fit me as well as it did all those years ago.

• While it was very popular 15 years ago (amongst a clientele of my age and older) it is now universally (it would appear) despised by the younger market. It's considered to be dated, pointy, visible under clothing and (I'm interpreting) out of touch. 

No question, this bra is neither a contemporary shape nor is it made with standard-issue fabric (lace, smooth satin). It reminds me of something you'd have seen being worn by a super model in an Elle shoot in 1990. It's vaguely cartoon-y in its armour-esque appeal. Having said this, if it fits well - and you like a retro-shape - it's unstoppable when it comes to lift and support.

It works on a reasonably discrete subset: those with narrow-set, even breasts that require a lot of projection at the centre gore. It's unique in that it provides for a lot of projection at the lower cup (something Freya's known for) and a reasonable amount at the upper cup. This means that if you have a very even-full shape (i.e. your breasts are full everywhere), it works beautifully. Most bras are shaped to work for upper or lower fullness specifically, which ignores a certain complement of the marketplace - those with evenly full projection.

Technically, this is the same shape that Empreinte caters to with its increasingly rare projected and seamed offerings. The Rio is a third the price, which theoretically makes it appealing to a broader population. Mind you, the Rio gives a different shape - it's more pointy (particularly at the apex where the three seams meet) and less delicate.

Given that I remember the old days (and liked the offerings then) and that I am the perfect shape for this bra, I bought it. But it's only fair to mention its potential detractors:

• The straps are too thick. They overwhelm on a small frame and they're unnecessary unless one has extremely heavy breasts. I'd prefer that they scale these differently but it's not gonna happen.

• The waffley fabric is difficult to match and finding the matching undies is less easy than you'd imagine.

• Some people say that the waffley fabric is transferred to their skin after a day of wearing (it goes away quickly, apparently). I have never experienced this. I wonder if those peeps are wearing a slightly too-small size or if their breasts are very soft.

• It's amongst the more pointy bras you'll find out there these days - and it's not ironic like the bullet bras. This shape would have been all the thing in the 80s but in the tens (do we say this?) it ain't ok if it's not pretending that your boobs are a demi sphere. I'm SO not down with that. I like many shapes and I don't intend to be limited by cultural norms. I mean, norms are fleeting and I'm here for the long run.

• I don't feel that the fabric is specifically observable under clothing (though it is a seamed bra and sometimes seams show), but it's not slippery fabric, so it can produce a tiny amount of drag if the fabric being worn atop the bra is of a particularly draggy hand.

Now, what's right about it?

• The fit, if it works, is excellent because the bra is well-drafted and constructed.

• It's really comfortable. Like, all day.

• The materials are of excellent quality.

• The lift is front and centre (pulls breast tissue from the sides) to give a pointy version of the boobs on a plate look.

• The support is beautifully firm. Do NOT size down in this band as you would with most Freyas. It's firm like the Freya bands of yore. I wear my standard 32.

• The bra lasts because it's well-made.

• This style has stood the test of time. Freya would not still be making it, I can assure you, if it didn't have a built-in market. I only wish they'd continued producing many of their other styles in this fashion.

Nothing like a polarizing bra, I say! What's your take on this one? Have you worn it? Do you like it? Do you hate it? Let's talk!

Bra Review: Cleo Lucy

This is the first of 3 more bra reviews on the subject of finding a black bra that fits me. You know how I've been in the "black bra drought" for a LONG time now and my last one is on its last legs. (Yeah, first world problems and all, but I do hate it when there's a hole in the lingerie wardrobe.)

FWIW, black bras can be a tricky fit. For kicks, next time you're in a store that stocks a bra you wear and like in a fashion colour or beige, try on the black version (presuming it's made in that colourway) and notice the difference in fit. Black dye - as sewists and knitters can tell you - tends to shrink fabric more than other dyes. It can also impact the texture. Fun fact: That's one reason why I hate black jeans.

Colour notwithstanding, I never thought the Lucy would work on me, and it doesn't. No sense in lingering over the punch line. The Lucy went back to Figleaves immediately after I tried it.

I was optimistic, as my very well-fitting Lori and Kali are sister styles (according to lots of resources, they're cut exactly the same). That's not corroborated by my experience nor by Veronica's (bra-fitter extraordinaire). The fit differences are subtle but, in my case, they're a deal breaker.

First up, the bra in question:

Cleo By Panache - Lucy

Yeah, I know it's venerable. Many of you probably own it. It's a very useful "fit" bra - when you're trying to determine your size - particularly if your sense is that your breasts are full on bottom. It's considered to be the fit inverse of the Cleo Marcie (the "fit" bra for full on top breasts).

Black and white are its continuity colours. It also comes out in fashion colours each season (at least it used to). Many of those are still readily available online.

By comparison, here are shots of the Kali and the Lori:

Cleo by Panache Kali

Cleo by Panache Lori

FYI, I've written detailed reviews about the Kali and the Lori, in case you'd like to read more about them.

I really wish that these stock photos were of the same woman in the same position. I also wish that I could adequately describe how the most subtle changes in dimension can tank fit altogether.

Here's the gist (and measurements corroborate this):

• The cup width is the biggest issue. The Lucy has a width of 7.5 inches from gore wire to side wire (measured over the upper cup span). The Lori's is 6", Kali's is 5.8". For me, 6 inches is optimal. What this means is that the cups are much wider than my breasts. They pull my breasts out to the sides and the gore rests slightly on breast tissue. It's not good for immediate centre front projection because it caters to a breast shape wherein the majority of breast tissue is on the centre-plane or outside of the breasts.

• Unsurprisingly the wider cup leads to a shallower profile (this isn't always the case, but within the same size and shape it generally is). The Lucy is 10.5" deep. My preference is 11.5. Interestingly, in the same size, the Kali measures 11" and the Lori measures 12".

• The Lucy is stretchier in the band, than either my Lori or Kali - which makes it pretty unsupportive. FYI, I bought the Lori in a 32 band so, in actual fact, the Lori's band is likely as stretchy as the Lucy's - but it doesn't impact me. Stretched Lucy band (purchased 34) = 33". That's very stretchy for Cleo bras, though pretty true to size for other brands. Stretched Lori band (purchased 32) = 32.5. Stretched Kali band (purchased 34) = 31.5. My preference in stretched bands, these days, is 31 - 32". The former, slimmer and less sensitive me would have preferred 30 - 31".

• Furthermore, as mentioned, black dye impacts the fabric feel and stretch factor. Yeah Cleo cups are non-stretch, but all fabric has natural ease which results in a bit of stretch. Not so much when it's dyed black. Often it's that give that provides the perfect fit in the final analysis (when shape and size needs are largely met already).

• Wider cups lead to wider straps - and the straps on the Lucy are at the edge of falling off my shoulders. Happily, in addition to having narrow shoulders I have narrow breasts so I'm not required to wear bras, to work for my breast width, that are misaligned with my shoulder width. The combo of stretchy band, wide straps and wide cups makes for a very unsupportive and bouncy bra.

• Finally, Lucy's cup separation - specifically at the bottom of the gore - is just too wide for me. It makes sense. The Lucy is a wider bra than either the Kali or Lori. It's also less deep at the gore where it meets the cup. The top of the cup has a separation of 1 inch - which is on the edge of too wide for me (my breasts are VERY close set at the top). 0.5" is my preference (though that's very hard to find). 0.7" works alright for me but by the time you get to an inch, it's likely not going to work. The Lori's is 1 inch, interestingly, but the fabric is different and it doesn't widen too much at the base of the gore (which is where the Lucy goes all to hell on me). The Kali's is 0.8".

So, there you go.

In terms of the fabric and feel, the Lucy's alright. Feels quite like the Kali (by contrast, the Lori is beautifully soft). It's vaguely starchy but nowhere near as industrial, fabric-wise, as the deep styles that Cleo makes (Ellis, Lily). I've never really liked this bra - I feel it's bland and it does look wide on every model. Mind you, I can appreciate that it might be awesome if it works with one's natural shape. That's kind of how it is with all bras.

Bra Review: Cleo Kali (The Cobalt Blue One)

I alluded to a complete bra review when I first bought the Cleo Kali in the neon yellow colourway. I had to return it for a 34 band (and corresponding smaller letter cup size) because Cleo fits very tight in the band (the yellow 32 stretches to a max of 28 inches). The 34 is a much better size for me given that too-tight bands are not my friend these days.

Here's what it looks like:

Here's half the band unstretched. You can see it's compact, even in the larger band size - the blue 34 stretches to 31.5 inches, max:

This bra is super pretty - but also sassy:

I like it so much that I've just ordered the Cleo Lucy (same general shape as the Kali) - a bra I've avoided since the beginning because I've always heard it is best for shallower and full on bottom breasts and mine are neither shallow nor bottom-full. I suppose my shape is less top-full as I move through my 40s, but I think peeps have underestimated how it can for more balanced or full on top shapes. If you have very young, self-supporting breasts (the kind that are in no way soft), then I concur. But if your breasts are even a bit soft, the style/shape can work.

At any rate, I'll be reviewing the Lucy when it arrives. I bought it in black because, in the same way I had that "beige bra crisis" a couple of years ago, I find myself in a similar black bra drought over the last year. Who knows how these things happen? One thing's for sure, I've never been understocked in crazy-patterned bras.

What I can tell you is this:

• The fabric for the Kali (in both yellow and blue) is softer than that used in all of the Marcie-clones (the most projected of the Cleo styles). As mentioned, less firm fabric provides less cantilevered uplift (that boobs on a plate thing that the projected Cleos have going on) than what you might associated with other brand offerings. Nonetheless, this gives a really round, but gentle shape. It's not melon-round, rather it's spherical in a more natural way that is quite appealing to me. Note: The fabric is not stretchy (not even the lace upper cup), but it's less thick and industrial than that of the Marcie-ilk.

• The partial-band (lack of fabric lip under the cup underwire) is very good for those with short torsos or upper abdominal protrusion. This one is as good as the Lori, from that vantage point.

• The gore is lower than that of many of my other bras. It's no plunge, but it does give a bit more cleavage than a true balconette.

• The cups are quite projected, particularly at the centre. I don't care what anyone says. If I can wear it, it fits that description. 

• I do think that the Kali is almost exactly the same, shape as the Lori and, I hope, the Lucy.

• The straps are standard-issue 0.7" width. This is how it always is with Cleo bras. These seem more comfortable than those on some of the more lifted offerings, perhaps because of strap placement and how the seamed Kali/Lori cup is shaped.

• The band comes with 2x3 hooks and eyes, which isn't my preferred 3x3, but it's comfortable in the 34 (sized-up) size.

• I love the pink bow at the centre gore with that cute blue heart on it. I'm not a heart fan, but the heart-patterned lace is subtle.

• I'd prefer a thong bottom but it appears that the flutter brief is currently the only option. Mind you, the undies comfy and flattering. Just not great under an outfit that skims closely.

If you've tried the Kali, I'd love to know your take on it. Do you feel it's like the Lori and or Lucy? Let's talk.

Mini-Bra Review: Cleo Kali

I decided to take the plunge and buy the Cleo Kali - which I heard fits very similarly to my increasingly-appreciated Lori (scroll down in that link). I chose the crazy-ass neon-yellow version cuz, why not? I'm looking for ways to expand my lingerie personality.

It really is that fluorescent - and I dig it! Pale ladies can wear this. Trust me.

I got it in the 32 band - because the Lori fit perfectly (recent tight band issues notwithstanding) in that band size. Um, that was a mistake. The Kali band is a full 2.5 inches shorter (unstretched) - at the same size - than the Lori. Apparently the Lori is a true-to-size-fitting 32 but the Kali is standard-issue Cleo one-size-small. Update: Before sending it back, I measured the "32" band. It was 24 inches unstretched and 28 inches stretched. That's really not on, IMO.

I'm sending it back for a version that's one band size larger and one cup size smaller (remember, this equation will yield the same cup volume as the one I just bought and I'll do a proper review then. I've just purchased the Cobalt colourway cuz the neon is entirely gone, everywhere, in my size. They just put it on mega-sale (after I bought it of course) and the stock is gone. On the plus side - I do love the blue version and I got it for 20 per cent off at Figleaves. That's still pricier than the yellow set I found on eBay but whatcha gonna do? (For reference - Neon set was 50.00 all in, from eBay. Cobalt set (newer colourway) was 70.00 all in, from Figleaves UK.)

Let me just say for now:

• I really like this Cleo style shape and material. It's not as industrial-feeling as most of the very deep cup, boobs-on-a-plate offerings they do (Melissa, Ellis, Lily) and, given that this is a partial-band bra (not fabric under the underwires), it's great for those of us with short waists.

• It gives a very different shape than the boobs-on-a-plate offerings. It's not as useful for very deep, full-on-top, heavy breasts because it doesn't have the underband, the fabric is less firm and the shape is different.

• I've never tried the Lucy - it doesn't appeal to me and it's know to be best for full-on-bottom shapes (I'm even with some upper fullness and high set roots). I'm starting to think it might actually work for me, having now tried 2 similar (if slightly more "open on top") Cleo styles. Interestingly, I have tried the Marcie - the other Cleo offering that's recommended as a fitting bra for all newbies trying to determine the correct size. It was awful. So I suppose I fall into the Lucy fit-category which is quite surprising to me. Note: The deeper Cleo offerings model the Marcie and I wear many of those quite well.

• Size up in the band. Really. Even if you're between sizes. Unless this one's an outlier, the band fits super small.

• The undies are less saccharine - and more wearable - than I thought they'd be:

That ruffle, which always looks serious in photos, is fairly discreet. I do wish this bra came with a thong though...

Lingerie Review: Cleo Ellis

So, you know I've spent the last 3 weeks spring cleaning. It's been mainly by necessity - certainly not from natural enthusiasm. There's nothing like finding 4 sweaters with holes and a moth to change the trajectory of one's free time for a month.

In case you're wondering, yes - I have over-reacted.

But, I've also managed to cull about 40 items (conservative estimate) from my wardrobe, as I've cleaned, mended and reorganized.

Sure, I imagine, were I to count - and I'm getting almost curious enough to take on this ridiculous exercise - I'd have 20 skirts and 20 dresses and 40 sweaters and 10 pairs of jeans - for starters. But I really enjoy everything and most of it fits (except for a small collection which is a size up or a size down, just to be practical).

I'm actually rather pleased to know what's what, and to be able to see it all easily.

Disclaimer: I have always been a rather organized and tidy person (with a strong, orderly aesthetic) so my closet, while now more minimal, is really not any prettier than it was before.

One of the areas I've culled excessively is the lingerie drawer. As my body has changed over the past couple of years, I find that many of my sets are no longer as supportive as they need to be. I've also gone up approximately a cup size - so the bras that were on the smaller size in my wardrobe, are now too small. Are they wearable? Yes. Will I wear them? Not a chance.

On this topic: Stay tuned for another bra "sale" in the near future.

I mean, don't start crying for me. I still have more beautifully-fitted, gorgeous bras than any human being requires. But now the drawer seems a little bit lacking in something, how shall we say it?, new and fun.

It seems the only two brands I buy anymore are Cleo and Empreinte. Empreinte brings out the European sexpot in me (with unparalleled shape and support) while Cleo hits the fun spot.

Lots of peeps are pissed that Cleo can't seem to make a bra that even vaguely nods at neutral. I hear those angsty cries, but I LOVE the insane patterns that this brand produces again and again and again.

To wit:

Photo courtesy of Miss Underpinnings (you should read her post...)

Once I had a lot of pink in the cupboard. Now, I need some more!

Is this not perfect for spring??

This bra fits very similarly to the Melissa and the Bella - both of which I own and which I've reviewed (click on the links).

If anything, this version of the style is the best fitting of them all so far - though I have achieved very good, "boobs on a plate" fit in every Cleo bra I've bought in this size. The bands are quite tight so consider sizing up. I wear a 32 and, while I'm getting used to it, I use an extender.

You should know that not all Cleos are constructed the same. The Lucy, for example, works better for wider, bottom-heavy breasts (in the scheme of things - the line does cater to narrow roots).

But, if you have narrow roots of standard height (see the link, above, on Melissa for more about this lingo) and very projected, even-to-full-on-top breasts, this might be the brand for which you thank your lucky stars.

Did I mention that it's totally affordable? I got the set on eBay for 50 bucks, all in. Please. (It almost offsets the hysteria-inducing prices of Empreinte.)

Some Details:

• The pattern is as gorgeous in real life as in photos.

• The bra is comfortable - but note that the band size runs quite small in Cleo bras.

• The fabrics are supremely supportive because there's NO stretch in them of any sort. Having said that, they can be stiff at first. The fabric is never going to be luxe. Mind you, it feels luxer than any mid-priced brand I've tried.

• The undies are standard issue with this cut of Cleo bra. There's a boy short and a thong. Both fit nicely, but I'd size up in each - especially the thong.

• The weakest elements of the Cleo bra persist: the straps are too thin (and not strong compared to the rest of the bra) and the back has only 2x2 hooks and eyes. This works fine for me because the band of the bra, wires and fabric (in addition to construction technique) give me adequate support. But, in a larger cup size - or in the case of heavier breasts / breasts of different shapes - both of these challenges can be significant. And they're both very resolvable! Mind you, that would involve money and the reason this brand is affordable is because it's somewhat no-frills.

• The shape is fantastic: high, round and front-and-centre. Totally pin-up and not in any way minimizing. Mind you, bras that minimize tend to add 10 pounds (by compressing breast tissue and moving it to the side body and down towards the abdomen), so why would you want that??

• The difference between the Ellis and the Melissa/Bella (and I'll need to wear it for a while before I understand the fit fully) is in the upper cup and the immediate centre front projection. That's why it works so well for me. My boobs jut straight out quickly from the breastbone (and are quite close set). Bras which provide immediate projection from the centre gore are my best friends! And, trust me, they're very hard to find. The lace is quite soft and open (though not stretchy like that of the Panache Jasmine). This makes it malleable for upper breast fullness, but not weak as stretchy lace can be if one's breast tissue is soft.

I'd say the fabric hand is more like the Bella than the Melissa but the fit is more like the Melissa than the Bella. Of these three bras, I sense I will continue to love the Melissa best - it's just spectacular - but I can tell that the Ellis has already edged out the Bella. The Bella is good, but it's a bit pointier and sturdier than either of the others. And I just don't dig turquoise as I thought I would.

Well there's an epic on a Wednesday afternoon. Wait till you hear what else I've bought!

Today's questions: Do you wear Cleo? Why or why not? If you wear it and you love it, is your shape similar to mine? Do you love this gorgeous pattern?? (Yeah, I know that one's leading.) Let's talk!