Finished Object: Claudia Pants, Take 3

Today, the bug-free lifestyle focus is on yarn. I keep my stash in a box, in ziploc bags, but it never hurts to shake everything out and ensure that all the bags are without any tears. Plus, I want to put some Kleenex dotted with cedar essential oil into each bag. People, I have gone through so much freakin' cedar in the last month, I cannot tell you...

But let's talk about the pants. Here's the thing. They're done. Actually, they're drying as I type. I decided to wash them after making them - something which never happens. I washed because they're a bit big. And on that note - how is it that these pants are still too big and they've got less stretch than any other fabric I've used to make them in the past?? Something is not adding up...

In case you're curious about the basic shape (but not the colour, which is apparently rather evasive), here they are:

Anyway, the thing is that they're basically flannel pants. Yeah, you read that right. I made pants that are essentially flannel. Sure, flannel with a bit of flair, but flannel-feeling all the same. They do not drape nicely. They do not contour with splendour. They don't have a ton of recovery.

Here's a shot that sort of captures the colour and texture, though really, the blue is actually quite deep and rich - not washed out as it seems here:

Before we get all sad about it, um, I do happen to live in Canada. I can assure you that, at some point - and probably in the next calendar year - I will have occasion to wish that I had a pair of pants in my wardrobe that are both chic and flannel-ish. So I'm not putting them on the lawn! But I won't be wearing them for a long time (I hope, please weather goddess).

Mind you, next sewing project - I'd really like it to be a spring-wearable winner.

Thoughts?

What T'will Be Will Be...

Yesterday, on my way to work I found a fabric moth. Y'all know about my bug phobia. Well, it doesn't apply to fabric moths (or most flying things, really). I smashed the shit out of that thing. Of course, it was the sign that I would once again need to shake out and review all of my fabric stash.

Just spent hours doing that. Um - it seems my late-winter fabric spree was epic people. I do not know how I've got so much yardage fitting into one tiny cupboard. Then, in addition to 55 yards of fabric, I've got notions up the yin yang, muslin, lingerie supplies and interfacing. I am officially finished with shopping for fabric for a very long time. Honestly, I have everything I could possibly ever need or want. (Actually, I have awesome fabrics - it's hardly upsetting to pet them, even as I feel vaguely overwhelmed.)

I am very grateful to say that all of my stash is whole and bug-free. I do intend to add cedar and lavender to the cupboard - and maybe to get these moth tent things my friend Nicole told me about. They're work on pheremones and mess with the reproductive cycle of the bugs. All natural, effective and odor-free!

One good thing about this seemingly endless exercise is that it has compelled me to pre-treat all of my washable fabric. When next I reach for it, it'll be all set to go. (Usually I have to factor washing and drying into my sewing experience.)

Mind you, it's derailed my sewing plans for the weekend - or delayed them, anyhow.

I've decided to make another pair of Claudia pants using the stretch cotton twill I recently bought at Fabrications. Note: This will be my third pair. The first I wear constantly. The second I put on the lawn (it was made with that hideous black Bengaline and was too big).

Here's the thing, I'm not sure that I like the twill. Don't misunderstand. It's a lovely fabric in the abstract (far lovelier than the photo below would lead you to believe). But, on washing it, the right side developed a definite brushed quality. I should say that it isn't napped - as far as I can tell - as the brushed quality isn't directional.

You can't see it in the pic, (which makes the twill look flat and grey - it's actually navy blue), but the right side almost looks like suede or velvet:

Peeps, I hate napped fabrics. Nubby fabric kind of creeps me out, not to mention that it picks up every bit of floating lint or hair (yuck). It reminds me distinctly of half of my wardrobe circa 1983. The thing that's saving this twill is that its brushed quality is very subdued. Mind you, all brushed fabrics seem to have one thing in common: they're stiff.

I do feel rather liberated though, to approach this fabric with adventure and not too much investment. It's got about 10 per cent stretch so I doubt it will create a finished product that's too big. And, who knows, I may discover a new-found love as I work with it.

Having said all this, if it doesn't thrill me, onto the front walk it goes. I don't have time to coddle. It's got to hit the mark or someone else can enjoy it on its merit.

The fabric is cut, marked and ready to go. I hope I have time to make the pants tomorrow - but if not, at least I'm proceeding. I've got to remember: it's all sewing. And every time I finish something - if I like it - I've got to find somewhere to put it. So slow is alright. I'm pacing myself with Chianti :-)

Today's questions: What do you think of napped fabric? Is velvet/suede/corduroy your fave thing ever? Does it remind you of nails on a chalkboard? Do you like brushed twill? Let's talk!

When Things Don't Go As Planned...

As relatively craft-successful as the previous two weekends have been, this weekend was rather unproductive. My goals were lofty: another Issy top, Claudia pants made with stretch Bengaline, knitting past the yoke of the Svalbard cardigan...

How did that go?

The Knitting:

Well, here's my latest knitting on the needles:

Most of the yoke of the Svalbard cardigan by Bristol Ivy - I know the centre panel looks odd. It's unblocked and the "V" of increases isn't showing well. I swear, in real life, it looks normal (if a bit uneven as it hasn't been blocked)...

Since Friday I have worked precisely one row and rolled 3 balls of yarn. Note to reader: That ain't gonna get me to the end. I do have a post on this project in the works. The Svalbard is something I was compelled to cast on because it's like a scarf with sleeves - an elegant one. I just want to be warm right now, not constrained - and I don't feel like mathy-fitting my ass off.

Of course, this is a dicey garment from the vantage point of my shape. But I'm living on the edge and I have a couple of work arounds.

In brief: This pattern is polarizing (just read the Ravelry projects pages). It's very simple-looking but very complex to establish, as one knits the entire sweater from the top down. It's rated 4/5 starts in difficulty (by the pattern designer) for a good reason. Everyone seems to have to rip back two or three times before establishing a groove because it's fucking complicated. Mind you the end result is refined. And once you figure out how it works, it's SO smart - like solving the problems of the universe on two needles. This sweater is much more challenging than the Blanche Too, but so much better envisioned. Some people suggest that the pattern should be more streamlined (it's 12 pages or so - standard issue for Brooklyn Tweed designs) but honestly, I don't think it's reasonable to expect that it could be. To have access to the pattern in multi-sizes, one must switch from section to section for info. What's so good about the instructions is that they explain how to do this. Sure, it's tricky, but it's not a mystery and it's beautifully thought out.

The Sewing:

Now I did end up sewing two things - but one went straight in the bin and the other is just meh (who knows if I'll ever wear it).

The thing that went in the bin: Another version of the Issy Top made in blue rayon jersey. Here's the thing - I really struggle with the construction of the neck unit on this top - so that was a nightmare. Furthermore, I over-estimated my required centre-back narrowing alteration. I believe, in this pattern, I need 2 small darts on the neckline, not one large one, and a smaller decrease in neck-width than originally I estimated, so I diminished the impact by half - one inch of narrowing vs. 2 inches. Finally, there was a flaw in my rayon fabric - right in the middle of the piece. I didn't notice it when I checked it on receipt, but it was deceptively hard to see - more like a serious run than a tear. I don't know if my washing somehow might have caused this or if it arrived this way. I worked around it but the flaw, coupled with only a yard of fabric (the Issy really does need a yard and a half of 60 for the size 10), meant I had to cut a sleeve against grain and to shorten everything. It was suboptimal.

I am bummed to have trashed a yard of fabric and a day, but I did learn a few things that should help me on my next go round.

The Meh Thing: The other garment I sewed this weekend was a second pair of the Claudia pants. I can't even be bothered to photo them - though I will soon, if only to show you Bengaline (not that you can really see how it feels in a picture).

I don't like Bengaline - and I'm working with the "good" kind - the rayon blend (not the poly blend). I can only imagine how hideous the poly stuff must feel. There's so much fucking stretch that I can pull the pants off without opening the zip. My highly modified (for me) Claudia pants pattern is suited to fabric having a max of 20 per cent stretch and probably 10 per cent stretch factor would be better.

The only things I can imagine wearing in Bengaline are panels in a dress (for stretch and contrast), a tailored jacket (that fits with the ease of a cardigan) or VERY close fitted pants. Seriously, you want at least 2 inches of true negative ease, maybe more. I'll try my other yard with the Elle's or "denim" leggings, but I don't suppose I'm going to be a convert.

The fabric feels untenably fake. It's a bit sheeny - equally on both sides, IMO, so I couldn't figure which was which. I have no idea if the lighter colours are less or more sheeny but  that would make a difference going forward. (I want matte finish.) Bengaline seems never to iron completely. I mean, it presses a nice seam, but it's almost like you iron-in the wrinkles as you go. It didn't take my fusible interfacing well so there's a bit of weird overstretch bubbliness on the underside of the facing (not a deal breaker but ugly).

It doesn't so much drape, as stretch and contract, so a garment with too-loose fit is both wasted, from a fall of fabric perspective, and bulky-seeming.

Furthermore, and I've known this for a long time, though it really hit home today: I don't like black pants. I think they're the dullest, most ubiquitous thing ever. They just don't pop (like blue denim, my favorite fabric in the world). They're designed, 9 out of 10 times, to fade into the background. Why would I sew something that is so dull-looking no one will notice? I don't like black RTW pants any more than the hand-made kind. Sure, occasionally, one may observe someone wearing a beautiful pair in a beautiful suiting fabric (generally with a matching jacket) but, for goodness sake, if you're going to make black pants, they'd better be in fabulous textile and the fit's gotta rock.

Whatevs. Live and learn. This weekend is gone. Let's move forward...

So what's next this week, craft-wise?

• Gotta buy some more rayon jersey - yeah, I only have one-yard pieces?! - to sew my next iteration of the Claudia top. I'm making this as part of the Sew Sexy Sew Along that Clio and Sown Brooklyn are hosting. Sure, not feeling outrageously sexy right at the moment, but sexy is as sexy does - right?

• Gotta find some pants fabric to make a second pair of the Claudia pants (also for the Sew Sexy Sew Along) - I'm doing an outfit peeps! Note: It will not be black. But man, how much more denim can I wear??

• Gotta get past the yoke of the Svalbard and move onto whatever comes next. I think it's the front panels but honestly, I don't even know. I just know it gets less complicated as you go, which is my kind of pattern!

Today's questions: What do you think of the Svalbard cardigan? How do you feel about Bengaline, if you've tried it? Are the lighter shades shinier or matte-r? What other pants fabrics are there in the world, besides denim and Bengaline, to make stretch woven pants? I'm thinking 10-20 percent stretch. I'm open to different colours or patterns. Let's talk!

StyleArc Claudia Pants: The Reveal

I don't know if one ought to put the words "pants" and "reveal" in the same title, but there you go.

Let's start with a zillion photos of what I'm calling a wearable muslin. In truth, it's rather wearable:

These are the pattern pieces I used to make the finished pants. Note: They're not the final pattern pieces. There are more changes I have made on the basis of the "wearable muslin".

Pants really don't look great lying on the floor. But this does give you a sense of the fabric and overall shape.

The darts were a bitch to sew in this rayon "denim" Oh yeah, I shortened the stitch length at the point, I curved the dart slightly at the point, I hammered these things with a clapper after serious pressing. The fabric is SO drapey that it just doesn't take darts well. Fortunately you can't seen those little bumps when the pants are on. They nicely flatten out over one's derriere.

Front facing from the wrong side

Back facing from the wrong side

The rather crappily inserted (but totally strong and functional) zipper. Whatevs. No one cares what the zipper looks like on the inside. See how, since I opted to use a slot zipper (regular) vs an invisible zipper, the facing attaches differently than it would have otherwise. I had a clean finish with the invisible zip. On the fly, I just serged the ends off the facing where it abuts the zipper. I didn't want to fold under and incur unnecessary bulk.

And then there are the money shots:

I freakin' love the drape of these pants.

OK, here's what I learned / what I did / what I'll do next etc...

• I'm going to sew these up in every fabric imaginable, using my new (unphotoed) version of the pattern wherein I learned a few things on this go round:
• I could use another 0.5" of length along the back crotch (fabric depending).
• I could use a slightly shorter length of front crotch (fabric depending).
• The inner thighs are slightly roomy. Next time I'll remove about 1/4" from that wedge I added on after muslin 1 (see top photo, back piece)
• I have to remove about 0.5 inches from the hips with fabric having @20% stretch.
• I want them a bit longer so I'll add another 0.5" to the hem and hem at about 0.5" vs. the 1" hem of these pants.
• The waist is a bit big. But that will serve me well if I use a very firm stretch woven.
• I'm really not a fan of facing. It always flips up a bit, even when well-understitched and pressed to hell. I've learned that, in future, I do not want to clip the seam allowance that attaches the top of the pants to the facing. 0.25" is a good seam allowance and is adequately non-bulky but also long enough so that you can understitch  at a point that will optimally maintain the turn of cloth from the inside. Enough with the clipping!

• Alterations I'll happily stick with:
• The lengthening of the back rise meant that I could remove an inch from the top of the back waist. My need was not for more length at the waist, but at the fullest part of the derriere.
• The slot zipper is a much better bet than an invisible one. Sure, it's not invisible but who cares? It's not bulky or unattractive and it will last for much longer, I suspect. (Don't forget to interface the seam allowances under the zipper. It will keep everything secure and you won't get dreaded bubble zip at the base. This is particularly important if you are using a stretchy fabric with an invisible zip.)
• The waist-height is pretty perfect.
• A propos of waist facings that like to shift, these pants - with all of their darts and seams - give plenty of places wherein one can invisibly tack, by hand, the facing to the pants. It now maintains its fall perfectly.

So that's what I can tell you about this process. I thought of titling this post "Work Very Hard. Then Pat Yourself On the Back" because that's kind of what I've done here. Don't misunderstand, perfection is not achieved. I don't think one can ensure ease and perfection making a pattern until one has remade it in many fabrics, many times, refining things as she goes. This however, is a promising start.

StyleArc Claudia Pants: Two Steps Forward, One Step Back (aka Muslin 4 to Follow)

To disabuse you of any unfounded excitement, I'm not there yet with these Claudia pants.

I believe, in shortening the front rise (even though I put some length back onto the front crotch tip to re-add the length of over all crotch curve which I removed in the shortening) I messed something up. Now the centre back seam is quite tight (kind of going up my bum) and the back facing (by the centre / crotch seam) is flipping out of the inside where it's supposed to lie flat.

I'm going to do some research but the likely outcome is that I'll put a bit more fabric somewhere on the crotch line and maybe alter the line of the back waist to give a bit more height.

Other than that deal-breaker fit issue (sigh), there are a few other cosmetic alterations I want to make:

• Put another 0.75 inches back onto the bottom of these pants. Yeah, now I'm back to the original pattern's leg length - told you I was tall :-)

• Add another 0.5 inches to the waist. It fits, but it's slightly tighter than I'd like.

• I'm thinking that a regular zip would make a stronger closure. Invisible zips on hips, when the garment is fitted pants, are a recipe for disaster. But I'll probably just cut a bit to the outside of the current pattern to add another 0.2" of seam allowance at the upper 8 inches of the hip, when cutting the fabric on my next go.

• Widening the pants another 2 inches in the leg from the knee down. Following my last round of alterations, when I simply removed the dart to add width, I feel they're still a bit too tapered vs. the straight leg I'm going for.

It's a good think I'm not fixated on a fast outcome with this project. :-)

StyleArc Claudia Pants: Original Pattern To Muslin 3

First... (Unaltered)

Then... (Muslin 1)

Now... (Muslin 3)

See last post for deets about the latest round of alterations.

I wonder if this time's a charm?? I do have to say that the latest curve looks resonant, in a weird, internal seams of clothing kind of way. I relate to the short, flatness of the front and the scoopy back (which deepens just at the base). And those hips are very me.

BTW, I did have enough fabric to cut a second pair of pants - though I did repurpose the waist facing. Mind you, I cut the waist facing twice... Point is, 2 yards of 60 wide fabric will make 2 pairs of these in a size 10...

StyleArc Claudia Pants: Muslin 3

I don't know how this is, but I'm onto muslin 3 of the Claudia pants and I'm actually having some fun. But man, I've got SO many new alterations for this next attempt, it's crazy...

On finishing my latest version yesterday, let's call it muslin 2, here's what I learned:

• This is a new glitch: I have front crotch "smiles" or extra fabric because the front crotch curve is too long. Apparently, when one has a full abdomen, this is quite common. First time for me, however... I'm going to apply this alteration - wedging out 2/3" of fabric to nothing at the side seam and then adding the length back to the base of the curve.

• Why oh why am I so incapable of noting the difference between waist facing and waist bands?? These pants have facing - which means they don't have additional height of a band at the top. The result is that now I have to add ALL the fabric I removed from the crotch curve back into the waist because I'm not joking about making pants that fit at the true waist. I'm not dealing with muffin top. On the plus side, I've gained an inch in length...

• And, on the topic of length, I've got to add half an inch back to the base of the leg - I'm getting longer still!

• The original line of these pants is not optimal, IMO. They're SUPER 80s, not my fave era, as you know. I've got to get rid of the leg dart. It's killing me with its stirrup legging vibe. I'm also going to alter them into straight leg (rather than tapered). I think it will be a more modern silhouette and will balance my proportions better.

• Gotta add back that inch in the hips that I removed last go around!

• And, while I'm at it, I'm giving a tiny bit more fabric to the front inner thigh.

• Finally, I'm closing the front from 2 pieces with seam to one, uncut piece. I don't need a line bisecting me at this juncture. I also think it's dated, given the line of the rest of the pants. And it takes some effort to finish that seam nicely - which is just stupid given that I don't like it.

You know, if this were my third jacket muslin, I'd be ready to kill myself. And here I am, third go round with So. Many. New. Alterations.

But it's cool, peeps. For some reason, I don't bring judgement to my fitting of pants in the way I do to the fitting of the tops. I feel like I've got a chance to turn these into a very well-fitted garment - nay, sloper, if I put in the time.

Stay tuned.

StyleArc Claudia Pants: The Fitting Continues

Well this is getting interesting...

Remember this altered pattern, which I lengthened by 3/8" at the top and to which I added fabric to the crotch curve and inner thigh?

Left pieces are the front of the pants, right piece is the back...

Well, I spent a while basting the shell together, to see what would come of it and here's what I discovered (other than, man - they were way too big just about everywhere):

The fabric shows my first iteration of the altered pattern, discussed in the previous post linked to above. The paper shows the new alterations on the basis of what I learned having basted the first iteration, cut fabric together.

Just to complicate things visually, in this pic, the left piece is the back of the pants and the right pieces are the front. The pattern has been altered to reflect the changes I believe are required having tried on the basted muslin for fit.

Important note: Ordinarily, I would start with new fabric because I shortened the crotch from the midpoint of the crotch curve, where that flap of fabric is now, and the back piece (having a hem dart) from below the knee. Alas, one cannot do that with one's already cut fabric, so I'm shortening this muslin from the top and bottom of the pattern. Because I have SO much excess fabric, I can do this (though we don't know if it will have unknown impacts re: grain). I suspect not, given the lengthwise and widthwise stretch of this fabric, but I do think it bears mention.

This round of alterations:

• Adding 3/8" of fabric at the waist wasn't a bad idea - but I did need to remove 1.25" of depth in the crotch all around.

• Shortened the length of the pants, below the knee, by 2 inches. I guess my legs are really not that long...

• When I shortened the front curve, it made almost NO difference to the line of the front crotch because that front curve is practically flat almost to the base. I did have to take some width out of the hip (probably that extra inch I added in when I altered the original pattern per my denim leggings pattern) and a bit out of the inner and outer legs. BTW, I sense that the front curve looks like that because of the relative fullness of my abdomen.

• The back piece got most of the attention... That little wedge of paper taped on top of the piece is the amount I had to remove from the previously altered back crotch curve once I shortened the rise (as I trued the pattern piece to reflect the new rise). If you look at the top photo (the one showing my starting point before this round of alterations) you'll observe that what I've done, essentially, is return the curve to that of the original pattern by removing a lot of the extra width I added into the primary alteration of this crotch curve (on the basis of what I learned the last time I made stretch woven pants (denim leggings)). My point is, all I've really done to alter this pattern is shorten the crotch curve by 1.25 inches and add about an inch of extra fabric to the inner thigh (from the back piece). Oh, and shorten the legs below the knee.

• Less notably, I also had to remove a reasonable amount of width from the hip and leg on the back piece...

What actually fit right out of the envelope? Well, the proportion was almost smack on for my body, which you can more or less discern by looking at the newly altered pieces atop the, as-yet unaltered cut fabric. The waist height, once I addressed the crotch depth, was almost perfect. The darts were a good width, as drawn. The waist fit almost perfectly.

Even though, when I tried on the basted muslin, I might have called it a disaster, on 5 minutes of reflection, this was fairly easy to improve.

Now let's see how the next version works. This time I'm actually going to sew.

Prep School

OK, this'll be my last word for the day on the Claudia pants. (I have to hope.) I've done all the prep this weekend - 10 hours worth:

• Traced the pattern with extra hip width (good call, I suspect, as my fabric has 20 per cent stretch and the pattern calls for fabric that has 30 per cent stretch).
• Altered the traced pattern per my denim leggings "sloper".
• Prepped the fabric. Washed and dried in machine. Then steamed to ensure no more vertical shrinkage.
• Cut the fabric.
• Marked the fabric.
• Threaded the serger. Tested the fabric with the serger.
• Threaded the machine. Tested the fabric with the machine.
• Read up on all the posts I could find about the Claudia pants (not much).
• Read up on crotch curves.
• Wrote 4 posts considering things (and thinking as I wrote).

I've decided to view this as sewing.

I mean, if I think about it as prep, it seems so precursory and irritating. But if I think of it as sewing, then I sewed a lot! Bring out the wine!

This means I can simply get down to construction next weekend. And I do use the word "simply" with a wink. After all, we have no idea if this test run will be a perfect fit or a disaster. Looking at that curve, I'm leaning to the latter perspective - but, on the plus side, I've added so much extra fabric to the original curve that I should be able to baste everything, determine issues, and still be able to hack at the crotch without sacrificing the fabric. It's scary when this counts as a cautious success :-)

Amazingly, I only used @1 yard of my 2 yards of fabric, so this pattern is not a fabric hog. I may actually be able to get a second pair from my current yardage, minus the facings, should the need arise. (Oh, and I've bought another 2 yards of the fabric, so I can relax. Not to mention, I've got other denim stashed - albeit other denim with even less stretch than this denim.)

Well, that's my weekend. No knitting so far though I do want to finish the sweater. Just made a Bolognese sauce that's simmering on the stove and it smells fine.

What have you been up to?

I Truly Don't Understand This Alteration

I guess that's why they call it the muslin phase.

Based on Sunni's post (wherein she has provided a very useful photo from Pants For Real People, with permission of the author), sense I've made the following alteration to the original pattern:

•  Making the waist higher. Yeah, I went there. I want this thing to be at least as high as those denim leggings. I'm a phase in my life where my abdomen is not only larger than I'd like but also relatively untoned - despite lots o' yoga. (I'm taking the long view peeps. Hormones are a fucking bitch.)

• Making the upper, inner thighs roomier. Not surprising since that's the only place where fat lives on my legs - just up at the top, as the altered pattern indicates. Also, remember I bought the size 10 because I read that the pattern runs large. In a 12, I'd probably still have to adjust the curve but maybe not as much...

• I've added a bit of extra fabric to the front crotch and quite a bit to the back curve. Here's where things get dicey. I can see how the original pattern comes together with a deep "u". Mine is the oddest "v". Hmmm... This kind of goes against my need for an L shaped crotch curve (vs a J shape). I have read elsewhere, however, that in close fitting knit pants the J shape is used to best effect. That's sort of the shape of the unaltered Claudia crotch curve. Whether the v works on me, we'll have to see.

BTW, I really recommend Pants For Real People, hideousness of the design and layout aside.

Thoughts or feelings on this?

Slippery Sloper

On the basis of a couple of comments yesterday (thank you!) and an email exchange with S., I had this moment of sewing memory lucidity...

Remember these? (Please ignore my deathly sick look...)

Well, they just happen to be pants made for a stretch woven. Sure, they're the jeans version of leggings, but note that I made those with denim that barely stretched. I mean, it doesn't stretch at all which is why I haven't been wearing them lately...

For kicks, I took out the pattern. Egad, that seems almost "sloper comparison-esque".

Here's what my altered version it looks like:

Seems that I had to a) lengthen the denim leggings at the hem but I didn't shorten them in the rise tremendously much and - note this with interest! - I actually raised the waist-line twice to get them to sit at my real waist.

And here are the relevant pieces of the Claudia pattern overlaid:

Fascinating, yes?

There's not a tremendous amount of difference between these curves. Sure, there's the need for refinement in length and depth - and the first try might not work perfectly - but I am starting to see how this pattern is not cut for an Amazon.
This bonus photo shows that the length of the Claudia pant is about 0.5" longer than the denim leggings sloper, but that's before any refinements...

So that's where I'm at right now. Strangely grateful for a sloper of sorts, to potentially have saved me from slicing and dicing the Claudia (I traced it! It wouldn't have been a disaster!) in accordance with a loose-fit pants sloper designed for wovens.

Whatcha think?

Getting With the Program

OK, even though y'all (and my patient fitting friend, S.) have been pushing me to sew from slopers, I've been slowish on the uptake.

I say slowish because I do routinely use three curves I've worked hard to determine - crotch length and depth for woven pants, crotch length and depth for knit lounge pants and armscye length and depth (plus sleeve head) for knit tops.

My primary issue with the sloper concept has been that - and I do realize this is stupid - I always feel like, what's the point of having all kinds of patterns and designs if you just duplicate the same basic elements again and again. Yeah, I know, patterns have lots of unique details and some basics don't interfere with overall design. Or do they?

Look, I'm fairly confident that I can design a pattern based on a sloper (albeit a simple one). But I don't want to! I want to buy patterns and just use them and get fun, different results. Where's the excitement factor in constantly pulling out the slopers??

Admittedly, the lows are nowhere near as low.

So here's where I'm at.

My goal this year is to:

• Develop a woven (tailored jacket) sloper - most likely this will be princess seamed.

• Develop a sloper for stretch woven pants - I've got one for leggings and one for wovens but not one that spans the gap and, let's face it, the stretch woven pant is relevant in my wardrobe!

• Commit all of my slopers to oak tag or some such thing so that they are sturdy and reusable. (Please, need thoughts on best methods here...)

So, today, I got started and drew out the woven pants sloper crotch curves and the knit top armscye/sleeve curves:

I just traced the relevant bits to make it easy to put them on top of other pattern pieces. Now I'll have no excuse to consider going renegade.

Next thing I did, this morning, was to pull out my Claudia Pants, recently purchased and arrived from StyleArc.

(Brief sidebar: I'm not super thrilled with the customer service they've got going on. I won't harp at the moment, but I may in the near future. And I'm not talking only about my Bengaline which still has not arrived. I'm half considering calling Australia since they haven't been responding to my still-friendly emails...)

In truth, I don't know that this pattern is going to suit me, but it's good to try new things, right? And I do appreciate the stretch-woven factor and the real waist height.

BTW, I'm going to use this stretch rayon denim fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics:

It's sort of grey/soot (not black like the monitor shows), very light-weight with good drape and some stretch. It's got enough structure, I believe, to suit these pants, but not too much. Just washed this fabric and it's beautiful. It could easily make a dress. It doesn't wrinkle and the hand is delicious. I can see how I'm about to stash binge again...

But wait! Look at what happens when I put my pants sloper pattern piece (albeit a WOVEN sloper) against the unaltered Claudia stretch woven pattern:

Here's an unfettered view of the crotch curve of the Claudia pant:

If you look at the distance between the depth of my crotch curve and that of the unaltered Claudia pant, you'll see that it's 4 inches deeper than mine (never mind the difference in length of that curve). BTW, my sloper is navel, waist-height - not low-rise in any way.

I've read that the Claudias are very long, and I'm short, so I measured the length of my slopers against the below-crotch length of the pants. Guess what? They're both exactly the same length - 30 inches before hemming.

It would appear that ALL of the length I need to get rid of in these pants is in the crotch depth.

Is that not high on drugs???!!! Really. Am I doing something wrong, or is this high on drugs?

Sure, my crotch depth is really short - cuz that's where I'm shortest, in the lower torso. But my legs, as I'm routinely reminded, are actually average-length to long. Peeps who are 5'10" aren't lengthening the legs...

Is it silly that this makes me feel like a supermodel?

I bought the pattern in a 10 because everyone says it runs large and StyleArc advises that you go by hip measurement. Having measured the pattern at the hip, I don't know if I should add an inch. It's 0.5 inches smaller than my hip measurement, but the fabric does have stretch. Any thoughts on this??

What I will say is that the waist runs large by comparison with the hip. The 10 has a 33" waist? Ah, wouldn't it be great if I could remember to remove the dart width from the equation. The waist is drafted at 31"...

I think I'm glad I didn't go with a 12 - though I forgot about this when I ordered the Elle pants recently. Here's hoping that wasn't a mistake. BTW, I had to buy those pants because Gillian will not stop talking about them and I've been bamboozled!

So this is where I'm at today. Please share your feelings about whether I should increase the hip by an inch and best techniques for preserving my slopers. Also, what do you think of these pants? Let's talk!