Not to belabour this, but I had truly NO idea of the true meaning of the term "scooping", when it comes to pants fitting, though I've happily thrown it around whenever the mood strikes.
Just to clarify for all of us (and sorry to tell you something you may already know): Scooping - a mid-sewing fabric fix, not a flat pattern alteration - is not specifically about getting rid of fabric at the back crotch curve (for example) in order to add more room for the derriere via the addition of negative space. Scooping is about lengthening the crotch curve by creating an L wedge at the relevant place so that you effectively achieve the additional space you need. Then, you cut extra fabric away (strategically, not just willy nilly) to true up the line.
I hope that Myrna doesn't mind - let me know, M! - that I'm posting a photo she sent to me yesterday that beautifully illustrates the point:
|Photo by Myrna Giesbrecht|
Scooping is the fabric fix - often a life-saver in fitting - which is similarly achieved, if differently, by this flat pattern alteration:
Look at the back piece (the one on the right in the photo above). This is how I've altered the paper to fix the tightness of the back crotch I discovered in my last muslin. The outcome is similar to scooping shown in the top photo though pls note that scooping is not a wedge alteration. See that wedge below the darts? The part at the crotch curve is lengthened by 1.5 inches, effectively providing the derriere with more space - same as that scooping alteration from Myrna's pic above.
Now, I wouldn't have had that tightness if I hadn't shortened the original pattern equally at the hip and crotch, one muslin ago. I need a wedge alteration on the back crotch (to make things longer) AND on the front crotch (left of pic, harder to see cuz of the way the pattern is upside down) (to make things shorter). Despite our unique shapes and sizes, many sewists find the same general alteration is required.
Since I have tapered the wedge, in both instances, at the side seam, crotch length alteration has no impact on the length or proportion of the outer legs.
Hilariously, I need to make both of these crotch alterations to still a greater extent than currently I have - shortening the front by an extra 0.5" and lengthening the back by the same amount. But this next muslin will most definitely be wearable. I'm just getting picky. Oh, and I've got to remove 0.5" at the hips again. Note: When you make the correct crotch alteration, you often don't need to add fabric in all kinds of other places. Away that extra paper on the hip will go - for the third time.
Now, this wasn't even the half of my day as I spent the aft and evening with Sara and Andrea - and S. my fitting friend - working on fitting of Sara's Albion muslin. Such fun! S has been schooled by hardcore English fitters and Andrea in the Palmer Pletsch system and they had distinct takes on how Sara's alterations should go. Mind you, they both got to the same place in the end which made for an awesome improvement of fit and Sara's tremendous happiness.
It was truly exciting to watch things unfold. (But not exciting to make the flat pattern alterations.)
I am more than ever convinced that my fitting style is
In few instances, more cooks can make for a better dinner, and I believe this is one of them. I'm so happy that S will have more helpers, at future sessions, to facilitate her fitting solutions and that we'll each have a chance to improve home-sewist fitting, one future garment at a time.