I say slowish because I do routinely use three curves I've worked hard to determine - crotch length and depth for woven pants, crotch length and depth for knit lounge pants and armscye length and depth (plus sleeve head) for knit tops.
My primary issue with the sloper concept has been that - and I do realize this is stupid - I always feel like, what's the point of having all kinds of patterns and designs if you just duplicate the same basic elements again and again. Yeah, I know, patterns have lots of unique details and some basics don't interfere with overall design. Or do they?
Look, I'm fairly confident that I can design a pattern based on a sloper (albeit a simple one). But I don't want to! I want to buy patterns and just use them and get fun, different results. Where's the excitement factor in constantly pulling out the slopers??
Admittedly, the lows are nowhere near as low.
So here's where I'm at.
My goal this year is to:
- Develop a woven (tailored jacket) sloper - most likely this will be princess seamed.
- Develop a sloper for stretch woven pants - I've got one for leggings and one for wovens but not one that spans the gap and, let's face it, the stretch woven pant is relevant in my wardrobe!
- Commit all of my slopers to oak tag or some such thing so that they are sturdy and reusable. (Please, need thoughts on best methods here...)
I just traced the relevant bits to make it easy to put them on top of other pattern pieces. Now I'll have no excuse to consider going renegade.
Next thing I did, this morning, was to pull out my Claudia Pants, recently purchased and arrived from StyleArc.
(Brief sidebar: I'm not super thrilled with the customer service they've got going on. I won't harp at the moment, but I may in the near future. And I'm not talking only about my Bengaline which still has not arrived. I'm half considering calling Australia since they haven't been responding to my still-friendly emails...)
In truth, I don't know that this pattern is going to suit me, but it's good to try new things, right? And I do appreciate the stretch-woven factor and the real waist height.
BTW, I'm going to use this stretch rayon denim fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics:
It's sort of grey/soot (not black like the monitor shows), very light-weight with good drape and some stretch. It's got enough structure, I believe, to suit these pants, but not too much. Just washed this fabric and it's beautiful. It could easily make a dress. It doesn't wrinkle and the hand is delicious. I can see how I'm about to stash binge again...
But wait! Look at what happens when I put my pants sloper pattern piece (albeit a WOVEN sloper) against the unaltered Claudia stretch woven pattern:
Here's an unfettered view of the crotch curve of the Claudia pant:
If you look at the distance between the depth of my crotch curve and that of the unaltered Claudia pant, you'll see that it's 4 inches deeper than mine (never mind the difference in length of that curve). BTW, my sloper is navel, waist-height - not low-rise in any way.
I've read that the Claudias are very long, and I'm short, so I measured the length of my slopers against the below-crotch length of the pants. Guess what? They're both exactly the same length - 30 inches before hemming.
It would appear that ALL of the length I need to get rid of in these pants is in the crotch depth.
Is that not high on drugs???!!! Really. Am I doing something wrong, or is this high on drugs?
Sure, my crotch depth is really short - cuz that's where I'm shortest, in the lower torso. But my legs, as I'm routinely reminded, are actually average-length to long. Peeps who are 5'10" aren't lengthening the legs...
Is it silly that this makes me feel like a supermodel?
I bought the pattern in a 10 because everyone says it runs large and StyleArc advises that you go by hip measurement. Having measured the pattern at the hip, I don't know if I should add an inch. It's 0.5 inches smaller than my hip measurement, but the fabric does have stretch. Any thoughts on this??
What I will say is that the waist runs large by comparison with the hip.
I think I'm glad I didn't go with a 12 - though I forgot about this when I ordered the Elle pants recently. Here's hoping that wasn't a mistake. BTW, I had to buy those pants because Gillian will not stop talking about them and I've been bamboozled!
So this is where I'm at today. Please share your feelings about whether I should increase the hip by an inch and best techniques for preserving my slopers. Also, what do you think of these pants? Let's talk!