Monday, February 17, 2014

StyleArc Claudia Pants: Two Steps Forward, One Step Back (aka Muslin 4 to Follow)

To disabuse you of any unfounded excitement, I'm not there yet with these Claudia pants.

I believe, in shortening the front rise (even though I put some length back onto the front crotch tip to re-add the length of over all crotch curve which I removed in the shortening) I messed something up. Now the centre back seam is quite tight (kind of going up my bum) and the back facing (by the centre / crotch seam) is flipping out of the inside where it's supposed to lie flat.

I'm going to do some research but the likely outcome is that I'll put a bit more fabric somewhere on the crotch line and maybe alter the line of the back waist to give a bit more height.

Other than that deal-breaker fit issue (sigh), there are a few other cosmetic alterations I want to make:
  • Put another 0.75 inches back onto the bottom of these pants. Yeah, now I'm back to the original pattern's leg length - told you I was tall :-)
  • Add another 0.5 inches to the waist. It fits, but it's slightly tighter than I'd like.
  • I'm thinking that a regular zip would make a stronger closure. Invisible zips on hips, when the garment is fitted pants, are a recipe for disaster. But I'll probably just cut a bit to the outside of the current pattern to add another 0.2" of seam allowance at the upper 8 inches of the hip, when cutting the fabric on my next go.
  • Widening the pants another 2 inches in the leg from the knee down. Following my last round of alterations, when I simply removed the dart to add width, I feel they're still a bit too tapered vs. the straight leg I'm going for.
It's a good think I'm not fixated on a fast outcome with this project. :-)

14 comments:

  1. These are going to be the ultimate pair of trousers for you after all this attention to detail and fitting.
    I didn't consider strain when I used an invisible zip in my S4044 trousers... I just wanted to tuck blouses in and show off the dove shaped waistline without being concious of a zip showing.

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    1. Well, let's not get too excited :-) And I think that both kinds of zips look nice as long as they're well-inserted. But the invisible is special on a side seam. Just not so strong in the long run.

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  2. Hang in there K! Now, you know what I just now go to my TNT (at least the crotch curve!). . . I'm ready for you to rock this pair! And, pictures are welcome:) P.S. My sewjo is back.

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    1. Oh, I'm hanging. And I think I need to take a break till next weekend. I'm not sure I've got the crotch alteration right. I'm going to do something I so rarely do, but always appreciate when I can bring myself to do it - I'm going to wait for the info to pop into my brain. I know there's thinking going on in the background. I just have to give myself some time. So glad to hear your sewjo is back!

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  3. i've made loads of pants, but really haven't done much fitting, however-- i wonder if the extra added to the front crotch point would be better added to the back crotch point? in my experience, the smaller the front curve the better. the extra crotch length in the front tends to make the back pull, which may be what you're experiencing. then again, maybe not... :) pants fitting is certainly an undertaking, hope you eventually get the fit you're looking for!

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    1. I think you're right! Thing is, I cannot accept that whole, get rid of more fabric to add more space into the derriere. The books tell you to do it (as it lengthens the curve) but EGAD. I'm waiting and thinking before I make that cut.

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    2. I was going to say the same. And "scooping out" the crotch has never really worked for me. I mean, I understand how it's supposed to work, but I then have to add more to the side seams to make the booty big enough for my caboose.

      I always think that altering pants is one of those dicey propositions where, if you make one alteration to fix one problem, you then have to make 3 more to fix the new problems you created.

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    3. T: This is such an interesting observation. I can totally understand how scooping (necessary measure though occasionally it might be) completely fucks with the integrity of the rest of the seams.

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  4. I wish I had your patience. Seriously.

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    1. I wish I had Claudia pants that fit perfectly right now. :-)

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  5. Diligence! That's what you have - that's what I need. You are going to have a perfect fit!

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    1. I'm taking this to heart Faye :-) xo

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  6. I also wonder that by taking excess length from the front crotch with the 2/3" wedge changes the angles of the pattern above the alteration so that you get a wedgie and pulling at the top of CB.

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    1. In the end, I needed to add more length, via wedge, to the back curve. This whole idea of crotch "open darts" is so weird to me.

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