In Which I Bury the Lede (As per Usual)

I should be doing many things right now, namely: unpacking my clothes (which means I have to find the majority my clothes), massive clean up of M's bedframe (that was somehow removed from under protective plastic at the beginning of the demolition and can't be moved till "de-hazmatized"), reorging a basement that's so full one requires gold-standard tetris skills to manage it (and till this is done, furniture that isn't supposed to live upstairs is piled in a corner of my living room) - I could go on...

The thing is, I'm exhausted. I'm exhausted on pretty-well every level. I'm about to go back to work tomorrow (after a two-week "break") and I don't even know how my intellectual self is going to resurface. I'm trying to find the spark but I'm like a lighter at the end of its fluid.

My nature is compelling me - I'm scared shitless that, if I don't get up and work on everything right fucking now, I'm going to lose my will (already rather non-existent) and I can't bear to spend the rest of my life in this state of chaos. In case you're wondering about the veracity of one's mind being a bad neighbourhood that one shouldn't visit alone, I'm the very instrument of this misery. I'm the bomb I need to detonate. Scott keeps promising me that he won't lose his will and that, if we do even two hours a week, things will get done eventually. I just didn't think that things would continue to be so challenging, even though Scott warned me constantly, in an effort to prep me for ongoing stimulus.

On the flip side, I'm sure I'm learning many excellent life lessons I'm going to appreciate next year.

But talk about burying the lede. This post is about how - despite the flaws in my brain-state - my broken faith in humanity is being restored - in large measure because I am the most fortunate person on the planet when it comes to friendship.

Let's take a moment to dwell on that: I have awesome friends who show me love and acceptance and support at every turn. They call me to check in. They lift hundreds of pounds in boxes and furniture. They manage my work portfolios when I'm on vacation. They buy me dinner and dessert and listen to me chatter incessantly. They give me beautiful bottles of pink bubbles (that are real Champagne!). They inspire me with their diverse experiences and philosophies.

I have always said that, when it comes to friendship, I won the freakin' lottery. They should write on my gravestone: She reveled in friendship because she had the best friends.

Which brings me to the most fantastic experience I had yesterday. Gillian - who truly is as adorable in real life as she is in your blog feed - made a point of it to invite me to a sewing meet up (despite my not having looked at a machine in 18 months) and sweetened the deal by a) picking me up / taking me there, b) making me a NEW dress that actually fits (Lady Skater, my fave design ever) and a gorgeously-fitting new black T-shirt, c) cutting me out a Camino Cap T pattern plus fabric while d) standing by me with confidence-inspiring words while I serged it together amongst a group of utterly lovely women. And then she gifted me a copy of the "dress of the summer" pattern: The Fiona Sundress. Can you imagine such generosity?

Not only did Gillian take me away from the overwhelming in my own environment, but she guided me through an experience that might have been differently overwhelming, but wasn't, by making it normal. That's the mark of a terrific teacher and an excellent friend.

But let's go back to the part where she made me a dress and a top. I freakin' need that dress and top! They fit so beautifully. She chose perfect fabrics (I will post photos soon, I just have to take a shower before anyone sees me in anything). The dress is in animal print! What I learned yesterday, what metaphorically smacked me in the head, is that I have to stop with the goddamn fitting perfectionism. Lord, people - Gillian didn't even have my body there when she cut out these patterns, and the clothes fit.

Let me say this in front of an audience so I cannot back track in the future: Perfection is the enemy of the good because there ain't no good once you slice it to shreds - 3/8 of an inch at a time.

My goal as a sewist, over the coming months, is to go slowly (I don't need to make a capsule wardrobe in a weekend - not that this ever worked, given my natural pace) and to make the assumption that I'm not so much a special snowflake on the fitting front that I can't make a change or two to the vertical dimensions and call it a day.

If I want to be different - and I do - if I want to grow as a person and as an artist - then I need to see things through a different lens. If I can sever myself from perfectionism when it comes to the things I make - the things that are supposed to bring me joy - then I will be able to transfer that awareness to the other areas of my life.

Yesterday Gillian gave me a wonderful gift that I will not forget, one in lieu of the beautiful clothes that she made for me. She brought me closer to myself, and for that I am very, very grateful.

Styling My Stash

I think I mentioned that Sara, Andrea and I have undertaken an "exercise" (no, no one sweats): We've reviewed each other's stash and pattern libraries and each of us has been assigned two projects (from our own pattern inventory) to make using some of our already-owned fabric.

Well, except me.

I've been assigned two patterns that I don't currently own.

I don't know what this says about my pattern library?? (Honestly, I think this is just how the cookie crumbled.) One of the patterns (free, online!) may work very well with one of my favourite fabrics and the other is one in Sara's stash and may make good use of some fabric I'm wondering about how to use.

Andrea's Assignment for Kristin:

Andrea has chosen the Ludivine dress for me:

The Ludivine is free online. Ok, it's also in French but I can read French well enough that it shouldn't be a problem.

She wants me to use this cashmere, double-sided sweater knit (which I've mentioned many times before):

So, here's my caveat. I'm going to make a muslin of this dress - and I'll include some waist shaping / consider carefully where to begin that under-arm colour-block given the relative curviness of my bustline - to see how I feel about it. If I love it, I'll use the cashmere fabric. If I'm on the fence after the muslin, I'll make it with another double sided knit (or two separate knit fabrics).

Sara's Assignment for Kristin:

Sara wants me to make these pants from Vogue 1323:

Using this fabric (better photo to come):

I suspect it is a stroke of genius that she suggested this poly/lycra broadcloth, which is new in my stash and not the sort I've ever worked with. It's got 50% cross-wise stretch and a bit of vertical stretch too and it's kind of sheeny and drapey. Before I saw it up close, I thought it might make a good shirt (that might not require an FBA - or as much of one as it would using a woven with no stretch) but I'm not convinced of its hand in that context. It's a bit thin and synthetic-looking in a way that won't necessarily work as well for a top as for genie pants.

For a brief moment, before I knew what would be chosen for me, I was worried about what I'd be expected to produce (would I be up to making the patterns? would I like them? could I get with the assignment concept?) but I'm psyched to make both of combos - though I'm not convinced they're the next things I'll tackle. I am waiting anxiously for that Issy Top to arrive (more on fabric I've got planned for that in another post). I'm also intrigued to try the Lola dress and to make a second pair of the Claudia pants.

Yeah, you did read that. The Claudia pants are done! Which means I've got a good, wearable muslin (made of freakin' awesome fabric). I'll give you the deets in the next post - including photos of me wearing them, believe it, it's true - but I'm fairly pleased.

So, today's questions: What do you think of these friend-chosen combos for me? Would you ever want to participate in this kind of experimental sewing? Let's talk!

Getting Fit(ted)

Yesterday was sewing-central in the Kristin household. It started with a telephone call with Myrna, to talk about my Claudia pants muslin, and we had a terrific chat which clarified some things for me  - not least of which is the concept of scooping.

Not to belabour this, but I had truly NO idea of the true meaning of the term "scooping", when it comes to pants fitting, though I've happily thrown it around whenever the mood strikes.

Just to clarify for all of us (and sorry to tell you something you may already know): Scooping - a mid-sewing fabric fix, not a flat pattern alteration - is not specifically about getting rid of fabric at the back crotch curve (for example) in order to add more room for the derriere via the addition of negative space. Scooping is about lengthening the crotch curve by creating an L wedge at the relevant place so that you effectively achieve the additional space you need. Then, you cut extra fabric away (strategically, not just willy nilly) to true up the line.

I hope that Myrna doesn't mind - let me know, M! - that I'm posting a photo she sent to me yesterday that beautifully illustrates the point:

Photo by Myrna Giesbrecht

The line that's closest to the raw edge of the curve is the original stitch line (indicated by the pattern). The scooped line (which was achieved in phases illustrated by the stitching rings you see), is the most L shaped one, farthest from the raw edge. That L shaped stitch line has produced an extension of the original crotch length, giving extra space where it's needed. The diagonal line you see from the angle of the L to the raw edge is a snip, I believe, inserted to allow for truing of the fabric on the fly. Note that the L shape angle, illustrated here, is very likely distinct from the scoop angle you need to make because it suits a particular shape of derriere. For example, it would not suit my shape (as I have a butt that sticks out somewhat).

Scooping is the fabric fix - often a life-saver in fitting - which is similarly achieved, if differently, by this flat pattern alteration:

Look at the back piece (the one on the right in the photo above). This is how I've altered the paper to fix the tightness of the back crotch I discovered in my last muslin. The outcome is similar to scooping shown in the top photo though pls note that scooping is not a wedge alteration. See that wedge below the darts? The part at the crotch curve is lengthened by 1.5 inches, effectively providing the derriere with more space - same as that scooping alteration from Myrna's pic above.

Now, I wouldn't have had that tightness if I hadn't shortened the original pattern equally at the hip and crotch, one muslin ago. I need a wedge alteration on the back crotch (to make things longer) AND on the front crotch (left of pic, harder to see cuz of the way the pattern is upside down) (to make things shorter). Despite our unique shapes and sizes, many sewists find the same general alteration is required.

Since I have tapered the wedge, in both instances, at the side seam, crotch length alteration has no impact on the length or proportion of the outer legs.

Hilariously, I need to make both of these crotch alterations to still a greater extent than currently I have - shortening the front by an extra 0.5" and lengthening the back by the same amount. But this next muslin will most definitely be wearable. I'm just getting picky. Oh, and I've got to remove 0.5" at the hips again. Note: When you make the correct crotch alteration, you often don't need to add fabric in all kinds of other places. Away that extra paper on the hip will go - for the third time.

Now, this wasn't even the half of my day as I spent the aft and evening with Sara and Andrea - and S. my fitting friend - working on fitting of Sara's Albion muslin. Such fun! S has been schooled by hardcore English fitters and Andrea in the Palmer Pletsch system and they had distinct takes on how Sara's alterations should go. Mind you, they both got to the same place in the end which made for an awesome improvement of fit and Sara's tremendous happiness.

It was truly exciting to watch things unfold. (But not exciting to make the flat pattern alterations.)

I am more than ever convinced that my fitting style is hideously non-academic non-traditional. A and S were throwing around concepts and numbers like savants. It was palpable how they were able to communicate in a way that was so enjoyable for them. I do get to the same end point, but at a pace that is more that of paint drying than computers computing. For better or worse, my brain comes at fitting from a totally different vantage point. Sometimes I'm convinced that I'm slip shod, but really, I suspect (given that I do make clothing that fits) my method is best referred to as intuitive.

In few instances, more cooks can make for a better dinner, and I believe this is one of them. I'm so happy that S will have more helpers, at future sessions, to facilitate her fitting solutions and that we'll each have a chance to improve home-sewist fitting, one future garment at a time.