Fixing a Wavy Invisible Zipper (On a Bias Cut Garment)

OK, peeps, my crafting posse has once again come to the rescue and advised about how one deals with the abject horror of an invisible zip, on a bias cut garment, that waves and bubbles like a bitch.

You must see the comments in this post. Some serious sewists weigh in and for that I thank them all.

Then check out this great Threads article (thanks Marina).

Then check out Sunni's awesome post that I should have read - in fact I'm sure I did read - yet somehow my brain completely glossed over it. Hmmmm...

I'm going to give this zip another go. Like tomorrow. After I've had a chance to drown my sorrows a bit. That would be with booze.

Remember, if you've just experienced this zipper malfunction, don't panic! We're gonna be alright. Especially if we drink.

Shout Out to the Experts: Invisible Zipper Rippling

Egad! I've spent hours perfectly sewing in my invisible zip (everything's aligned, all the seam allowances are as they should be) and now, when I put on the skirt - which fits, btw, the zipper area is all wavy.

There's no fabric puckering, but it's like the fabric doesn't have the chutzpa to hold the zipper - which is weird cuz it's not wussy fabric and it's been working well for everything else.

I'd really prefer not to have to rip the whole thing out and start again, though I will if I must. I just don't want to spend another 2 hrs on this to find out that my next insertion yields the same results.

Some questions:

• Should I have interfaced the seam allowances? (Again, there's no apparent weakness in the zipper and it lies beautifully flat on the ground. It's when I put it on my body that the waviness appears.)
• Is it that the skirt, around the zip area, isn't tight enough hence the buckling? Should I sew the seam allowances smaller? The skirt fits - isn't loose as far as I can tell. Worried about making things too tight if I do this.
• Should I just use a regular zipper because this thing needs to be more stabilized in the fabric by more stitches? If yes, can I just stitch around the invisible zipper as I would for a regular zipper? Or will that look weird?

Admittedly, I've never sewn an invisible zipper into bias cut fabric - perhaps the bias stretch is encouraging this outcome?

What do I do????

So confused. So demoralized. Please help.

Spiraling

I'm won't lie. This post is going to be a little bit technical. But I'm aiming to throw in a bit of pithy philosophy as I go, in the event that it will appeal to more than 3 people.

OK, elephant in the room time, I'm here to tell you about spiral steel boning. More specifically, it's about cutting the boning wire and affixing those little caps on the end.

To remind you, this is the boning:

These are the caps:

And this is the type of tool I used to cut the boning:

Outrageously, I got my clippers (Scott calls them nips) from Leather and Sewing Supply for $4.50 (?!); the brand is utterly local. The company that makes the tool is called Can-Pro Canada (I know, ridiculous name) and, if I'm not mistaken, my gizmo is made in Etobicoke (the outer edge of Toronto). I searched high and low for a photo. (Of course, I'm too lazy to actually take one.) But I don't know how likely it is that you'll be able to get the Can-Pro brand if you live out of the city. Point is, you want nips that have that type of head on it.

Why is this relevant? Well, a lot of people will tell you that cutting the steel is very tricky. Gertie (and I think we can agree the woman is a pioneer) posted a video demonstrating the cutting process, a while back. Thing is, this video kind of freaked me out. It made the cutting - to me - look rather challenging. But, trust me, if you use the type of clippers I've shown in the photo above (not that brand, specifically), the spiral cuts really easily.

Special Secret Tip!: More to the point, the guy at Leather and Sewing Supply actually showed me how to cut with minimal effort. Because the wire is in spirals, if you clip half of any circle, it will sever the link between the two sides of wire. That means you don't need to cut clean through a quarter inch of metal. You only need to clip a couple of slender wires and voila!

Now For the Caps: A lot of people will also tell you that affixing the caps is even more difficult than dealing with the wire. In truth, they're kind of right, but I have a philosophy about this. (Disclaimer: It's my extremely-handy husband's philosophy - I'm merely buying into it.)

To affix the caps - and you have to, or the raw wire will trash your fabric - you will need little needle-nose pliers (called jewelers pliers). Hopefully, you have a life-partner that has every type of pliers on the planet. If not, just go to the hardware store and explain yourself. These things are standard issue.

Step 1: Put the cap on the raw wire end and push it down. Hold it gently with your finger as you use the pliers to smush against the wide side (along the profile of the 1/4" wire). Don't do this too high up. You don't want to crush the tip out of shape or you won't be able to keep it right up against the tip of the spiral steel boning.

Step 2: Now, against the narrow, i.e.skinny, side, gently use the pliers to smush the metal in.

Step 3: Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you have the stupid thing affixed. As you press along the width, the ends of the clips will move away from the wire. As you press the ends towards the wire, the tip will try to lift. (Takes a couple of minutes, i.e. 2-5.) Every time you think it's fixed, the cap will shift. It will aggravate you and, likely, make you question your place in the universe.

Step 4: Meditate on the nature of the activity to prevent yourself from freaking out (as you imagine that it's never actually going to work). As you gently mold the cap against the spiral, you are actually metal-working. Optimally, a machine would do this for you, and it would apply pressure to all sides of the cap on the spiral in the same proportions at the same time. Alas, you are not a machine. So you need to bring zen to the act of pushing one way, then the other, then another, until you've mushed that thing well on. It will work. Don't panic. Keep trying. Be prepared to throw out a few caps. It's all cool.

What has the world come to, I ask you, when sewing involves pliers and wire cutters? If you think of it as carpentry, it actually seems less scary, somehow.

When first I saw Gertie's post about boning, I thought: There is NO WAY I will ever be able to do this. I'm happy to tell you that I've reconsidered, and not because I'm any more skilled, but because I've decided to just take it one step at a time. It's not rocket science (she says, not having actually completed the boned bodice). When you make any garment, you follow many processes. One leads to the next. This is simply an additional step - or three.

Note to reader: I'm getting myself into the "take the long road" tailoring frame of mind.

I cannot improve upon Gertie's tutorial. It's excellent. All I can add is a bit of info about my own experience. But, peeps, inasmuch as I am a sewing novice, in the scheme of things, let me encourage you! If I can do this, you can too. And I intend to do this.

Peace out.

Crossing the Line?

Somehow I think there's a pun in that title but I can't quite figure it out...

My friends, I appear to be hanging on the sewing dark side. I am so intrigued by constructing my second version of the Ginger skirt in a cerise, light wool blend, that I came home after a busy day at work to cut out the pieces. That's after I treated the wool yesterday. And re-read, for the 8000th time, the info on how to bone the waistband the day before. And bought the boning last week.

Did I mention that I don't sew on weekdays?

You may recall I'm making this one on the bias. And that, when complete, my Spring Basics Palette will be finished as planned. (Man, I'm getting my money's worth linking to that post...) Bias cut garments need to be hung to work out any potential warps, hence my inclination to get this on my dress form today, a few days before the weekend:

I realize this looks orange but you're gonna have to trust me that it's like a supa-bright, pink-y red.

While I was cutting, I couldn't get your collective voice out of my mind (egad, that's a bit sci-fi). I had to use the opportunity to cut some bias strips, to turn into tape. I didn't let the fact that I didn't know how to cut bias strips stop me.

See, that's what's been stopping me forever. I figure, I may have undertaken the activity incorrectly, but at least now I've tried. If it doesn't work, I'll have some sense of what I've done wrong and - maybe - I'll read up more appropriately on the topic next time. In short, I made 1 inch strips on the bias (out of the fabric scraps I had left), which will, I imagine, turn into 1/2 inch bias tape when I use that gizmo and my iron to fold it over on either end.

Some of the pieces are very short. I assume that means I'll have more join marks in the tape. I'm ok with that. Seams on my bias tape seem preferable to unfinished seams. And I don't want to waste fabric by cutting long strips out of the prime meat, as it were.

Hence this:


In today's irony, I'm pretty sure I'm going to finish the Ginger seams à la française, not that I've ever done this before. Which means this not-yet-bias-tape is gonna sit in a Ziploc bag for a while. Something tells me you have to be very specific in how you attach one piece to the next, or you could join pieces cut oppositely, which wouldn't work. Is that right? And is it hard to keep grainline straight once you've thrown everything into a bag?

Orange and Blue

Who can disagree that orange and navy are nature's perfect combination? That's how I came up with the idea to nicely finish V8413 with navy seam binding:

Doesn't hurt that I have every navy accoutrement known to the sewing goddess.

But, ah, the naivete. Here are some pieces of advice for y'all when next weighing the merits of seam binding:

• Can't say this loudly enough - when you use a woven fabric on a stable knit, it's rough. The likelihood that your knit will get wavy is high.

• If you remove the back zip feature of the dress (because the stretch of your knit obviates the need for it), be really careful about seam binding the waist seam. What you may not realize is that, in the absence of an opening, the waist seam needs to stretch, and it will not when you've wrapped it in a woven fabric. (A propos of this, my dress fits but I do have to smush my boobs somewhat to get the thing on.)

• I recommend 1/2 inch seams with tape that wraps over the seam allowance by 1/4 inch on either side. Because my original seams were 3/4 inch, I had to first baste for fit, rip out the basting stitches and then and cut 1/4 inch off the vertical edges.

• And (predominantly for me, in case I ever try to do this again):
  

1. Start the 2-step attaching of binding process on the wrong side of the fabric.
   
2. Use a 0 setting on your machine (centre the needle rather than right justify it).
   
3. Then, the 1/2 " binding outer edge should be flush with the right side of the presser foot.
   
4. Stitch the left edge of the binding to the raw edge of the fabric, about an 1/8th of an inch in from the edge.
   
5. Stop stitching a bit before the end of the raw edge so that you can fold the raggedy end of the seam binding under before you finish sewing the seam.
   
6. Press from the wrong side.
7. Fold the bias tape over the raw edge of the fabric. Press it and ensure you cannot see any stitch lines where the bias tape doesn't fold over the seam quite enough. Trim the raw seam slightly, if necessary, to ensure you can close the fold without seeing any stitches from the seam you've just sewn.
   
8. Stitch from the right side of the fabric about 1/8" in from the edge of the seam binding.
9. Press the front.

• I advise against using pins for any of this. It doesn't work, IMO. You just have to feel your tape and your seams and intuit how to keep them aligned. Believe it or not, that's easier than pinning.

• The binding will add bulk to the inside of your garment, but not too much if you use 1/2 inch tape (about as narrow as you can go on a knit) and keep your finished seam allowances to no more than 1/2 inch. Also, tack the seam bound edges to one another where they intersect. Don't bind the raw edge of a cut on cowl. It will show through. I had to rip out the seam binding on my cowl edge. Thank goodness my knit doesn't fray or I'd have had some serious challenges finishing that seam otherwise.
  

Nonetheless, somehow this thing came together in the end. Not just together, but together well.

Look at how all of those seams line up like a dream!

Not gonna lie, the seam binding in the bodice is pretty scary. Partly that's cuz I was using that stupid binding foot (which really doesn't work), the seams were curved and I didn't really know what I was doing...

The reason I'm showing it to you on a hanger, not the dress form, is cuz my dress form's upper bust (just below the shoulders) is wider than my own proportions and I cannot get the woven-seamed waist over that part of the form. Fortunately my upper torso is narrower than it, and my boobs are malleable, or I wouldn't be able to put this thing on. Mind you, once on, it fits PERFECTLY!

I catch-stitched the seam bound hem to the dress.

See - I can sew pleats!

Many who have sewn this lengthen the bodice but I don't recommend it unless you are very long in the waist. The idea is that the waist seam comes up fairly high (at the upper end of the true waist). Not quite empire, but moving in that direction. Otherwise the bodice may be baggy.

I cut an inch off the bottom of the skirt and then sewed a one inch hem - and that puts it at knee length, so the thing is pretty long.

Note to new(ish) sewists: The most challenging element of this pattern (never mind seam binding) is the facing-enclosed shoulder seams. It's a very neat finish but it's tricky. Read the instructions on this as many times as you need to, to ensure you've got it covered. Last time I made this dress, I knew something was wrong, but I didn't have enough sewing knowledge to realize it was that the raw shoulder seams should have been hidden by the facing.

Something tells me it's going to be quite a while before I seam bind anything - much less a stable knit (with a woven tape) - ever again.

But all's well that ends well, yes? So what do you think?

Note: I am totally going to show this modeled - it looks very chic - but I have to wait till I don't look like a Chia Pet.

Seams Endless

I've been working on this fucking dress for 2 weeks now and I'm ready to be finished. Thanks to your feedback, I did revise the way I'm applying the seam binding - doing it in two steps. It's created a much neater finish in the skirt (to show up the relative horror of the bodice seam edges). Alas, everything is vaguely wavy - I'm sure because I'm applying a woven tape to a stable knit. Whatever. You live, you learn.

I've come to the conclusion that I could have serged every seam on the damn dress neatly and in 5 minutes. Instead, I've spent hours taping up all the raw edges.

No, serging is not a retro-technique, but it's better than a mediocre vintage finish.

On the plus side, it seems to look quite nice from the outside. Here's hoping it's all done tomorrow because I've got to move onto the cerise, bias-cut Ginger skirt with boned waist. Part of me is afraid to take on another "new technique" so soon after this one. But I have to be open-minded. Each project is its own experience. And every new method is its own adventure.

I've Got Mail

The thing I love most about online shopping - and I do love many things about it - is getting a package delivered to my door. Or two, as the case may be, today.

I got home to find two lingerie sets waiting on my porch.

To remind you, they are the Freya Nina (purchased from Figleaves) and the Miss Mandalay Paris Moulin (purchased from Large Cup Lingerie). And they both fit perfectly.

Ah, a good day is one where you buy a bra, sight unseen, in a totally unknown brand and it fits like a fucking dream.

At any rate, here are my reviews, to assist you perhaps, in deciding whether these would work for you.

Miss Mandalay Paris Moulin in red with animal print trim. I got the ruched brief undies to match. Many have written that this bra fits small but I'm here to tell you that I disagree. I fins it entirely true to size. I got the 32 band but I wish it were tighter. I'm seriously considering going down a back size (and up a corollary cup size to maintain the same volume) the next time I order a bra, in any brand. I'm entirely underwhelmed by the tightness of new-bra bands lately. I feel as if, 5 times after I wear them, they're too loose. Note: I haven't worn the Paris Moulin 5 times (obvs), and currently the loosest hook is snug, but I sense the band material isn't the strongest. Also, keep in mind if you're thinking of buying, the band doesn't fit particularly loosely on the Miss Mandalay. I just like a very tight fit.

A propos of this, it's an elegant and structured bra but I don't find it outrageously sexy and it's def not the most supportive bra I've ever put on. Don't get me wrong. It's entirely supportive enough for the vast majority of people. But I don't like even the slightest hint of movement. As the bra fits perfectly in the cups, materials (which is to say, pretty ones) and construction are the reasons for that movement. In truth, regardless of your size, if your breasts are heavy this may not be the best bra for you. On the other hand, I'm dissecting this thing to extremes, so don't take it all too seriously. My breasts are dense. I'm 41. It fits me perfectly.

OK, let's talk fabric. It's not as sleek or soft as every reviewer has led me to believe it would be, given how everyone goes on about those elements. Every Freya bra I've ever bought has been as sleek or sleeker and as soft or softer. Not that the Miss Mandalay comes up inadequate in those ways.

The colour is great. It's a very cherry red. One might say cerise, which is the shade of red, bordering on pink, I love.

On balance, I'm very happy with it and I'm particularly pleased that I got it on sale. True, I would likely not purchase it again. (There are better bras out there for less money.) But I do recommend the brand.

Now, let's talk for a second about the vendor. I can barely stomach the name of the boutique but I have to say that the service was excellent. The set arrived in 5 days (2 of those were a weekend). It was nicely presented with a card. The shipping was free. Did I mention that?!? The shipping is always free to any place in the world. I found the set priced for less than I've ever seen it listed on sale anywhere else before. The selection on the site is very good; the site itself is lovely and well organized. One pays via Pay Pal (and prob other methods, but that's how I paid) so I won't see the purchase on my credit card in 2 weeks. This retailer will be getting my business again - but I think I'm going to have to find some nice way to suggest that they revisit the name.

Freya Nina: I got this balconette in its only colour way (Rosewater) with the boy short undies. As per usual, the delivery via Figleaves took a fairly long (but not unreasonable amount of) time - 9 days. I have noticed that, while it ships as quickly as other UK retailers, the product takes longer to arrive at my door. BTW, you can get this set - in a wide range of size options - at Large Cup Lingerie for less than I paid on Figleaves. And I also paid for shipping on Figleaves, which you wouldn't have to do...

OK, onto the deets. I freakin' love this bra. Fits perfectly. Has that standard-Freya level of support that is belied by its gorgeousness. It's pinker than the photo shows it to be. It's a full on baby pink, animal print (yeah, it's bizarre). So don't imagine it's beige-ish. There's none of that. Oh, and he of "men don't like patterned fabric in lingerie" prefers it to the mono-toned Miss Mandalay. So, whatevs. The shape it gives is superior. That's why, though it all seems to get a bit same-y same-y after a while, Freya is in no danger of being supplanted by any other brand, IMO. That shit really works and it looks great at the same time.

I know that many reviewers are down on Freya these days for failing to offer adequately small band sizes (28s are hard to come by and 26s are non-existent). They refer to the endless replay, as they see it, of the same 5 styles. Maybe it's because this is the first brand I discovered that actually made a bra that fit well and looked awesome. (I do feel that Freya facilitated a changed sense of self and refined my identity.) Maybe it's because I'm not in a cusp size, either in band or cup so - when a particular style doesn't fit in my regular cup or back size - I can size up or down in each (not that I have had to do that more than once or twice). Obviously, we all have the brands that really work for us. I see many extol the virtues of Curvy Kate, Ewa Michalak, Panache, Cleo etc. Call me the cheerleader for Freya, at least so far.

And seriously, Freya, if you're reading this - please comp me something already :-)