Shout Out to the (Knitting) Experts: Keeping Edges Straight

OK, I think I've encountered one of those vintage knitting lingo moments that has me reasonably concerned that a) I don't know what the hell it means and so b) I just ignored the instruction and now I'm going to have to rip my sweater back to the start.

Do you know this term: keeping the edges straight? It's used in a variety of contexts in my current project: Keep the side edge straight, keep the centre back edge straight etc.

Seems self-explanatory enough. Stay straight.

But, ahem, after observing it 5 times, it occurred to me that I should look up the phrase to see if there's more to it. Seems there is.

(Katy, I didn't understand that what you meant in your comment, about slipping the first stitch, is probably what the pattern advises (without so much as coming out and saying it). Have I mentioned that the vintage people would have done better to actually explain their concepts??)

Here's the question: Should I start over, inserting an extra "edging" stitch at the beginning and end of each row?

My larger dilemma is that I spend practically every row of this project either increasing or decreasing at either or both sides. I'm instructed to start knitting the left side of the sweater by casting 2 stitches on the needle. By the time I finish, I end up with almost 200 stitches.

So, presuming I need to add extra edge stitches for slipping, how does it work with a pattern with so much sharp shaping? I'm told to begin the pattern by casting on 2 stitches, then knitting, then casting on 2 more stitches, then purling (and so on and so on). Instead of following the explicit pattern instructions to cast on 2 stitches to begin, should I just start the whole shebang with 4 cast on stitches? Do I keep those extra 2 "edging" stitches (one beginning, one end) as the ones to be slipped? How will I slip? Only on knit rows? On every row?

More to the point, is this merely a cosmetic thing, or is keeping my edges straight a structural endeavour?

Thanks so much, knitting experts, for any feedback you can provide.

Sincerely, That Novice Who Should Think About These Things Before Spending 10 Hours Knitting

Take Heed

When you don't know much about something, and that something is a weeks-long, constructive kind of craft, you may find yourself on the receiving end of some irrevocable, crappy outcome.

My wonderful knitting friends have come out (in comments and email) to advise why, sadly, my misaligned rib is not something I can fix at this point.

First, Alexandra sent me this pic, to confirm this is an accurate representation of my problem. (It is.):

She followed with this explanation:

The band you're picking up from was knit from the top down, right? And now you need to pick up stitches from the cast-on edge of that band, and knit upward in the opposite direction? (Ed. note: Yes and yes.) 


You can't make the stitches align perfectly in ribbing. They will always look a half-stitch off. You can only pick up from the cast-on edge and match perfectly knitting the other way in stockinette and garter stitch. (The same thing applies to grafting, incidentally.) It is the nature of knitted fabric. If you zoom in on the designer's photos on Ravelry, you can just see the misalignment on the collar at the shoulder line. It's not obvious because of the marled yarn (the designer) chose.

Then, Karen sent me this fascinating link to explain what's actually going on (It's from that terrific new blog I found a few days ago.)

The short answer here, is that if you're going to have to pick up stitches on rib, and you want your rib to match what's come above or below it (depending on whether you're knitting top down or bottom up), you must have cast on the first row of the original rib provisionally. (Effectively, your first row of stitches must remain live (and on a holder) so that you can just take them off that stitch holder and keep on knitting in the opposite direction when the time comes.

Needless to say, I can't go back and fix this now (unless, maybe if I undo the original knot and tink back the stitches (which is a dicey plan if I mess that up - and by the way, I just made that up, so don't take my word for it). I mean, I could rip the whole thing back but that would be HIGH.

Instead, I'm going to hope that it's not overly noticeable a) once blocked and b) given that the colour is dark. What's the bet I'll notice it forever?

I've decided to view this as a useful life lesson and knitting experiment. I'm still not at the point where I've attached the ribbon by hand and machine knit the stitches (my alteration on this project to stabilize the rib at the closure). I can tone down the freak-factor when I get to that part of the project now that this is the first of 2 of these I intend to make. In the next version, I could also stand to go down a size (using the same yarn and smaller needle) and, potentially, add 4 extra stitches to the rib on each side.

Note: I will only make another, given that I like the design, provided I can cast on the rib stitches provisionally, because what's the point, otherwise. Mismatched stitches, I don't think so! (I need to look into this potentiality more carefully.) I have to say that this pattern is not outrageously clear - nor is it very good, on balance, given that this is the outcome I'm about to experience. There are many elements that a number of experienced knitter-helpers took issue with. No one said it was a badly written pattern; everyone said it was "interestingly written" or "unusually written" or "not written they way they'd write it". Hmmm...

Shout Out to the Experts: Invisible Zipper Rippling

Egad! I've spent hours perfectly sewing in my invisible zip (everything's aligned, all the seam allowances are as they should be) and now, when I put on the skirt - which fits, btw, the zipper area is all wavy.

There's no fabric puckering, but it's like the fabric doesn't have the chutzpa to hold the zipper - which is weird cuz it's not wussy fabric and it's been working well for everything else.

I'd really prefer not to have to rip the whole thing out and start again, though I will if I must. I just don't want to spend another 2 hrs on this to find out that my next insertion yields the same results.

Some questions:

• Should I have interfaced the seam allowances? (Again, there's no apparent weakness in the zipper and it lies beautifully flat on the ground. It's when I put it on my body that the waviness appears.)
• Is it that the skirt, around the zip area, isn't tight enough hence the buckling? Should I sew the seam allowances smaller? The skirt fits - isn't loose as far as I can tell. Worried about making things too tight if I do this.
• Should I just use a regular zipper because this thing needs to be more stabilized in the fabric by more stitches? If yes, can I just stitch around the invisible zipper as I would for a regular zipper? Or will that look weird?

Admittedly, I've never sewn an invisible zipper into bias cut fabric - perhaps the bias stretch is encouraging this outcome?

What do I do????

So confused. So demoralized. Please help.

Shout Out to the Experts: Inserting a Bagged Lining

Sewing Divas: Can you advise - as I can't seem to find anything anywhere (in my 5 minutes of looking): Is inserting a bagged lining as simple as stitching the right side edges of the lining and the skirt at the hem cut line of each, then flipping up the lining and attaching it all at the waist?

The skirt I will make (V8640) does not have lining instructions. Last time, I made a "regular" lining by cutting the fabric pieces again in lining fabric (minus the waistband) and assembling that, wrong sides together, at the waist. I serged the lining hem at the bottom.

This time, I thought I'd branch out, but I don't want to court disaster i.e. no original pattern modified x2 = potential eeek.

To complicate matters, this skirt has a vent at the centre back. I did find Kay's awesome post on working around the vent, but I'm still nervous about the general process.

Any feedback would be so welcome and appreciated. Kxo

Shout Out to the (Knitting) Experts: Wet Blocking a Complete Sweater

So, I just this second finished the Tubey sweater. I have lots of thoughts and feelings about it (and photos to come) - amongst them:

• Wow, this thing is really low cut - especially since I lowered the neckline by 3/4". Note: Based on measurements, I believed the neckline was going to be very high, if constructed as per the instructions. (My measurements were, apparently, erroneous.) Happily, I came up with a great work around - again - details to follow next post...; and
• I don't know if I like it, but I sure don't hate it and, while knitting, I learned SO many things. Even if I never wear the thing - and with a cami I will wear it - it's been more than worth the experience.

Here's what I don't get: How does one block a complete sweater - as opposed to flat pieces - one that's been knit in the round? I guess I wash it carefully, then put it on towels and try to adjust the front and back with pins as one unit? But isn't it going to take forever to dry? Will the underside come out as well as the top side? Any feedback would be so welcome...

Shout Out to the Experts: Fixing Puckering Silk Princess Seams

Egad, I'm back in the sewing saddle (sort of), making a second Pendrell Blouse using that cerise silk I've been to scared to use till now.

All was going very well (figured out how to do the inside binding technique that Tasia instructs in the pattern, which I glossed right over, by accident, the last time). The fabric, while it does water stain (tested on a scrap), did not shrink when steamed. It doesn't fray much. And I've figured out there's likely a very small amount of lycra in it. It has notably more cross grain stretch than any other of my other silk charmeuse. Since it's a fancy fabric, purchased from a designer who bought it from a mill, I imagine this was designed with RTW in mind.

And this, I sense, is the reason why my princess seams (and none of the others) are puckering.

Note:

• I'm using a 60 sharp (recommended needle for this kind of fabric).
• I've tested every tension on my machine (apparently lower tension is better for silk but it produced more puckering for me than higher tension - though the stitches are tight in that fabric...)
  
• I am using poly thread (which may be encouraging the problem, I realize, as the poly stretches in the stitching and then bounces back when sewn, but I haven't had this issue with other silk I've sewn.)
• Note: It's the slight stretch in the fabric itself which I suggest is causing the tension tug back after the sewing. And maybe the poly thread isn't helping. But I don't have ready access to cerise coloured silk thread.
• I have pulled on the seams to lengthen them. Hasn't done much good, but hasn't done any harm.
  
• I haven't yet pressed the crap out of seams from the wrong side - my next plan of attack, after rest- hanging the shell overnight on my dress form. I realize, short of ripping out the seams - a very risky venture with silk charmeuse - this is my best remedy attempt, unless someone has another suggestion.
  

It's very frustrating to do everything by the book - and to produce increasingly thoughtful, sound workmanship - only to encounter the ever-looming "sewing challenge" 3/4 of the way through construction. Really, sewing is so much more stressful - so much harder (IMO) - than knitting. I mean, it's harder to find the perfect material to work with, then physically harder to cut it out and mark it up (just that takes hours). Then you've got to sew it up and hope for perfection though something is bound to go out of whack at any moment. Then you've got to figure out the solution to the problem. Then put it into action it, all the while, hoping that said solution will a) work and b) not cause another challenge. Natch, knitting has its hard moments and some of these same challenges but they seem to happen, relatively speaking, at the pace of a snail - and sitting in the garden. And you're never totally fucked with knitting; you can always rip out the stitches and remake that fabric. It's the process of addition, not subtraction, that creates the knitted garment.

Ah, I'd forgotten that lovely sewing anxiety buzz, coupled with a headache from scrunching for 8 hours. It's not ameliorated by my inability to dull it with a nice glass of wine (see here).

So experts, what say you? Please tell me the pressing's gonna work. Or suggest another solution that doesn't require ripping out the stitches or finding silk thread.

Thank you.

Shout Out to the Experts: Easing Full Hems and Facing Debacles

This weekend I've spent quite a bit of time on Vogue 8379. My goal: to be all zen and relaxed. I've been doing careful, neat work. I'm working with some nice, orange rayon jersey. I've stopped to eat (0ccasionally).

But I have to tell you this pattern is really pissing me off.

Let me start by saying I've never met a wrap dress that didn't suit me. I'm like the model body-type for the style. I own many. I wear them often. When wearing them, I receive compliments. I feel chic. It's win-win.

Let me say, also, that I have done my research. I know the issue, in this pattern, about the neck and front facings flipping out. I read about it a dozen times on Pattern Review. But I was slow and considered. I pressed, understitched, massaged the fabric. And still, the facings flipped. Then I topstitched. The facings? On wearing, they still pull and threaten to flip. (Of course, they flip much less than they did before I topstitched. But if one moves, the facings are unpredictable.) I can't very well topstitch at the outer edge of the facing (the part that's 2 inches away from the seam). That would just look weird. I did try to catch stitch the facing to the bodice, but you could see the little thread-pricks from the right side, despite my most careful efforts.

It does not fit small - I made the 12 and it was the right size. If I'd made it in a 14, it would be too big and those facings would still flip. Jersey facings are STUPID. Will never use them again. In the future, I'm all about the seam binding.

OK, here's Question 1- as I know many of you have made this dress and you love it, facing-challenges notwithstanding: How did you get them to lie flat?

Then there's the matter of hemming the very full skirt. Easing will be necessary, I imagine. But since I may not wear this thing (jury's out), I don't want to spend a zillion years hand sewing (per the instructions).

Question 2: How do you recommend easing the hem so that it will lie flat when I machine stitch? I did run a row of basted stitches and pulled up the bobbin thread but it did not work. I just ended up having to pick out a mile of basted stitches. Maybe my tension was too tight? Maybe I need to do it in sections i.e. not one long baste but multiple ones? Is there some kind of Stitch Witchery product that can do this for me :-)

Any feedback on hemming would also be appreciated.

Final thoughts on the Vogue Wrap Dress:

• It's designed for a short-waisted, short person and still it doesn't fit right in the torso on me.
• Furthermore, it seems to highlight one's waist shortness.
• I lengthened the ties and now they're too long - not a disaster but I scarcely need more drag on this thing.
  
• Those tucks that start at the waist and move up towards the shoulders over the bust are just weird. I know they're meant to shape but they tend to make one's bust look low.
• I gave it 3/4 sleeves and I like them, but the easing of the sleeve into the cap is fussy and yields a gathered cap. I appreciate that look, but I don't like it when I'm pushed into it because of bad drafting.
  

Depending on your feedback, and a bit of chill time, I may get over my issues with this thing and wear it happily, or I may put it out on the lawn. (Note: It does get sadder and sadder to put things on the lawn as my technique improves...) I doubt I'll make it again, but if I do, I'm going to bind the edges, not face. And I'll make it sleeveless (arm holes bound too).

Updated: Shout Out to the (Knitting) Experts: Should It Look Like This??

OMG. The big fucking problem with not having the faintest idea of what one is doing, is that one has no idea when it's fucking up big time.

The provisos here are that I haven't blocked this, so the ribbing stitches look v. uneven. And I've got a (same yarn) lifeline in the body of the pattern - about 4 rows up (not improving the texture).



OK, here are the questions:

• If the rib was done in US 2 needles then how is it wider-seeming (i.e. looser) than the Knit/Purl lace work (done with US 3 needles!) that starts above it? (Note: It's only just getting going so you can't really tell it's going to be lacey...) Is this normal? It seems like the body should be looser than the rib.
  

• When you yarn over you add a stitch, right? So when you YO followed by a K2Tog, you're effectively stabilizing the stitch number - do I understand this correctly?

• The pattern says K6, * YO, K2Tog, K5, repeat from * to end. I did this and finished up (for 125 stitches) at the 4th of 5 knit stitches at the end of the row. Should it have ended on the 5th stitch?? I counted numerous times and even drew it out, stitch for stitch, but if YO and K2Tog cancel each other out in terms of stitch number, that's the way it goes.

• The YO extra stitch is very loose. I'm still purling into it (it's a purl row after the lacework row). That's the way it goes, right?

BTW, I couldn't figure out what was going on with those little holes (see yesterday's post) that I thought were dropped stitches. I'm starting to think they could be sloppy iterations of the additional M1 stitches I did (though I was very careful to check that they were all tight) because I couldn't have ended on the right number of stitches if one or more of them were dropped. Also, I studied the "holes" in great detail and I couldn't figure out where to fix them. They were open, but they weren't "broken links". If that's wrong, then fuck it cuz I feel compelled to move forward. I'm starting to get very frustrated. Sometimes, I believe, you have to "craft from where you're at". It's the way you get from nothing to something, even if the something is far from perfect. And you learn along the way, she says.

I know that taking up a craft and following up a first sweater with a sophomore effort of vintage lace work is a bit of a stretch (pun intended), and it's a bit rough right now.

Any feedback y'all may be able to give would be SO appreciated. Thanks, xo

Update: Apparently, row 8 may actually have an errata in it. I'm communicating on the details with the pattern publisher and will advise as soon as I have firm feedback.