Showing posts with label Blocking. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Blocking. Show all posts

Thursday, March 27, 2014

Mental Block

Over a couple of recent posts, the venerable Yarn Harlot (Stephanie Pearl-McPhee) has unapologetically set out her perspective on wet blocking newly-finished knits. 

The upshot (though, really, read the posts - I can't provide a better synopsis) is that wet blocking is the only way to go when it comes to final finishing of one's beloved hand knits.

These YH posts have elicited some very interesting comments, for example, one wherein the commenter described blocking as the difference between homemade and handmade. Strong words! Another commenter referred to Catherine Lowe, the owner of a new England yarn operation, whose philosophy is unique. Apparently, Ms. Lowe believes that one should knit a garment "too small" and then "couture block" to size (a theory with which I don't suspect the Yarn Harlot would agree, as Ms. Pearl-McPhee posits that blocking and stretching are not the same activity). 

What I can tell you is that I fall into the category of knitter whose gauge grows mysteriously as she goes. The YH references this "type" in her post, the type that fears blocking due to the potentiality for massive garment growth after submerging in water.)  As a side note, given that I always wet block, and I have certainly experienced horror as my sweaters turned into short dresses (at least until they dried and recovered), I'm actually down with the philosophy of knitting "too small". Now that I've started doing this - within careful parameters and not in any way as an alternative to doing the math - I'm finally making sweaters that fit. (Keep in mind, I also enjoy very close fit and I'm short, so this method suits me well.)

Here's the thing - wet blocking is divisive!

In full disclosure, I completely concur with Ms. P-M: wet blocking is not optional. IMO, it's the final step on one's path to knitted-object completion. I spend lots of time soaking and pinning and smushing and measuring. I roll wet wool - which smells hideous, btw - carefully, in multiple towels, to protect my precious stitches as they absorb excess water. I watch that blocking garment like a newborn. I fuss and I do think it's worth the outcome.

I'm on one end of the spectrum.

On the other end of the spectrum are those who espouse something between no blocking and steam blocking* (something I sense the YH doesn't consider blocking, even though many fantastic and knitters of gorgeous finished garments do).

I've steam blocked a variety of garments in my day. They looked much better after steaming than before. But they did not look half as good as they would have, had I wet-blocked them. There's something about using water to remove hand oils and extra dye as one actually cleans a garment that may have landed on some dicey surfaces in the course of knitting. There's something about pinning it out to size, or positioning carefully for optimal fiber recovery as the garment dries flat. The impact on the finished product is alchemical.

In all the instances I've steam blocked, I did so because I intuitively knew my final fabric was going to grow and morph. Sure, it saved my ass in the short-term, but I still needed to wash those knits eventually - at which point, my fears were generally realized. Now I knit on smaller-than-suggested needles (I don't even swatch on the recommended needle size, no point). I make the smallest size (rather than the 2nd smallest - which is my best size on paper). I often also use a yarn with thinner gauge than is called for. As I go, if I feel things are getting loose, I change up the pattern to address the issue. I'm not saying that my challenge is everyone's - I mean, many knit very tightly, and for them my plan would be a disaster - but for me it's made the difference between things I can't wear and those I love.

And keep in mind I do swatch! Swatching just isn't that useful for me, 90 per cent of the time. Because I'm a "responsive" knitter - because I consider the garment every step of the way (vs. swatching followed by knitting what I see on the page by rote) - and because I'm not afraid to make changes as I work - this produces better outcomes for me than any other method I've tried. Of course, if anyone has alternative suggestions - I'd love to hear about them.

You might believe that wet blocking can occur when your first wash the garment, after you've worn it for a while My perspective is that this does your fabric a disservice. When you wear before blocking, you alter the fabric in such a way that blocking may not be optimally effective when finally you undertake it.

At any rate, I've engaged in lively debate with my knitting friends about this topic, on a number of occasions, and I'm always amazed by the disparate and passionate opinions. I should concede, I've seen gorgeous finished projects that were steam blocked and I can't imagine there would have been any benefit, other than washing, to wet blocking those projects because they were so perfectly produced in the first place.

But I'm curious to know about you! Do you wet block? Steam block? Never block? What's your rationale?? Let's talk!

*As you likely know, one should be very careful using steam to block synthetic fibers. Synthetics tend to melt which will, at very least, change the way your fabric feels and wears.

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Shout Out to the (Knitting) Experts: Wet Blocking a Complete Sweater

So, I just this second finished the Tubey sweater. I have lots of thoughts and feelings about it (and photos to come) - amongst them:
  • Wow, this thing is really low cut - especially since I lowered the neckline by 3/4". Note: Based on measurements, I believed the neckline was going to be very high, if constructed as per the instructions. (My measurements were, apparently, erroneous.) Happily, I came up with a great work around - again - details to follow next post...; and
  • I don't know if I like it, but I sure don't hate it and, while knitting, I learned SO many things. Even if I never wear the thing - and with a cami I will wear it - it's been more than worth the experience.
Here's what I don't get: How does one block a complete sweater - as opposed to flat pieces - one that's been knit in the round? I guess I wash it carefully, then put it on towels and try to adjust the front and back with pins as one unit? But isn't it going to take forever to dry? Will the underside come out as well as the top side? Any feedback would be so welcome...

Monday, July 18, 2011

Block Party

In case you think I've been wasting my time on genealogy (peeps, it's my new obsession), I have finished the pieces of the Jan Sweater, which I immersion wet blocked this evening.

See?

These are the washed pieces of wool, pinned out to dry in shape. Note: Wet wool smells hideous.


I know these photos aren't much to look at but I sense that the pieces are going to be very soft and lovely when they dry.

While blocking the wet pieces, I really did notice differences in tension between each side (front and back) and each sleeve but I think, once blocked, the differences will not be visible in the finished product.

And I'm really glad, at least on paper, that I didn't make the medium. These pieces are larger than the dimensions predicted on the schematic. I know that wet wool really stretches out (and then seems to dry just fine) but the difference between the finished dimensions and the measurements of my finished wet pieces is significant in all directions. The reason I didn't pin more was because I didn't want to increase surface area unnecessarily.

Tomorrow I begin the sew up. Last time I assumed that would be the easy part - and it was a real trial. Maybe I've learned a bit from that? It will be less sewing of this garment than of the kimono wrap, because there aren't facings to deal with, the sleeves are shorter, and there are fewer pieces. Still, can't get too cocky... I'm not exactly an expert.