Shout Out to the Experts: Easing Full Hems and Facing Debacles

This weekend I've spent quite a bit of time on Vogue 8379. My goal: to be all zen and relaxed. I've been doing careful, neat work. I'm working with some nice, orange rayon jersey. I've stopped to eat (0ccasionally).

But I have to tell you this pattern is really pissing me off.

Let me start by saying I've never met a wrap dress that didn't suit me. I'm like the model body-type for the style. I own many. I wear them often. When wearing them, I receive compliments. I feel chic. It's win-win.

Let me say, also, that I have done my research. I know the issue, in this pattern, about the neck and front facings flipping out. I read about it a dozen times on Pattern Review. But I was slow and considered. I pressed, understitched, massaged the fabric. And still, the facings flipped. Then I topstitched. The facings? On wearing, they still pull and threaten to flip. (Of course, they flip much less than they did before I topstitched. But if one moves, the facings are unpredictable.) I can't very well topstitch at the outer edge of the facing (the part that's 2 inches away from the seam). That would just look weird. I did try to catch stitch the facing to the bodice, but you could see the little thread-pricks from the right side, despite my most careful efforts.

It does not fit small - I made the 12 and it was the right size. If I'd made it in a 14, it would be too big and those facings would still flip. Jersey facings are STUPID. Will never use them again. In the future, I'm all about the seam binding.

OK, here's Question 1- as I know many of you have made this dress and you love it, facing-challenges notwithstanding: How did you get them to lie flat?

Then there's the matter of hemming the very full skirt. Easing will be necessary, I imagine. But since I may not wear this thing (jury's out), I don't want to spend a zillion years hand sewing (per the instructions).

Question 2: How do you recommend easing the hem so that it will lie flat when I machine stitch? I did run a row of basted stitches and pulled up the bobbin thread but it did not work. I just ended up having to pick out a mile of basted stitches. Maybe my tension was too tight? Maybe I need to do it in sections i.e. not one long baste but multiple ones? Is there some kind of Stitch Witchery product that can do this for me :-)

Any feedback on hemming would also be appreciated.

Final thoughts on the Vogue Wrap Dress:

• It's designed for a short-waisted, short person and still it doesn't fit right in the torso on me.
• Furthermore, it seems to highlight one's waist shortness.
• I lengthened the ties and now they're too long - not a disaster but I scarcely need more drag on this thing.
  
• Those tucks that start at the waist and move up towards the shoulders over the bust are just weird. I know they're meant to shape but they tend to make one's bust look low.
• I gave it 3/4 sleeves and I like them, but the easing of the sleeve into the cap is fussy and yields a gathered cap. I appreciate that look, but I don't like it when I'm pushed into it because of bad drafting.
  

Depending on your feedback, and a bit of chill time, I may get over my issues with this thing and wear it happily, or I may put it out on the lawn. (Note: It does get sadder and sadder to put things on the lawn as my technique improves...) I doubt I'll make it again, but if I do, I'm going to bind the edges, not face. And I'll make it sleeveless (arm holes bound too).

Questions for Everyone...

A couple of things on the craft front:

• The Jan Sweater is proving to be much more finicky than the Kimono Wrap. Not that I'd have needed a PhD in knitting to figure that one out. As you may know, if you read my tweets, I've ripped out the ribbing twice: once due to stupid misreading and the next time due to a lost stitch that I couldn't retrieve given a) the thinness of the needles and yarn and b) the lack of a lifeline. There are 8 hours I'm not getting back. (Yes, I know it's a wonderful learning opp.) I've got to the point where I'm about to start the lacework of the body but somehow it seems like I've dropped a couple of bars (not stitches) on the row that holds the increased stitches. I don't know if I messed up the increases (I have the right number of stitches so I don't know how) or what exactly is going on. If anyone has any ideas, pls. advise. I hope it will be as "easy" as re-knitting the couple of impacted stitches in the column with a crochet hook but who can say and I'm too tired to tackle it tonight.

• I bought some great new rayon jersey on sale for 6 bucks/metre - 2 kinds (tangerine, natch, and wacky pattern with pinks and other colours) - with which to make wrap-standard Vogue 8379:
  

I'm still going through the numerous reviews on Pattern Review, but haven't seen a lot about whether this fits small through the bust. I'm trying to decide whether to go with the smaller or larger size (I'm likely a 12 but the boobs may make that tight through the chest). With a regular knit shirt, the stretch would compensate, but given that this will open at the v-neck, I want to be certain I've got the right size without going too large everywhere else. I'd prefer not to do an FBA, natch. Given the darts and the strange shape of bodice, I don't want to have to deal with shifting darts etc. if I can avoid it.

My rayon jersey has a bit more stretch than is required according to the envelope: 4 inches stretches to between 5.5" - 6" rather than to the recommended 5.25". I could also affix a discreet snap, if necessary. Any thoughts from those who have made it?

Also, I've read that the ties are too short and the waist is very short on this pattern. Can anyone short-waisted share feelings about whether they feel the waist still needs shortening or, egad, lengthening?