Treemendous

Admit it, you want this tree:

Kristin's Flowering Almond - halfway to full bloom...

Frockaholic

I'm only the 8000th person to review this book, so if you're looking for new insight the likelihood is slim. I will, however, natter on at length.

I'm entirely like 7999 others in my unilateral appreciation of this excellent piece of instructional writing. What a tremendous complement to Wendy Mullin's other books.

I've mentioned before that I am impressed with BBW patterns. So far, I've had more luck - and consistent quality of experience - using them than any other sort. She cuts for a narrow frame - but not so narrow that breasts are a challenge (even if you aren't an alterations expert). Her sizes (XS, S, M, L) cover a good range. Note: they don't accommodate those at either end of the bell curve, which is unfortunate, but they do work for a large subset. Wendy herself (apparently we're on a first name basis) concedes that her independent company is currently too small to meet the needs of every body type.

But about her newest book, a frockaholic's dream: It's predicated on the idea that many dresses can be made (more than 25) on the basis of 3 slopers (i.e. basic patterns without seam allowances built in) which the user modifies to suit her needs. The 3 pattern shapes are: shift, sheath and dirndl. (Seriously, people shouldn't call anything a dirndl. It's just not exciting.)

Each sloper pattern is very clean and easy and offered in all 4 sizes. The sizes are particularly gradable (able to be sized up or down) given that seam allowances are not included. I never would have thought I'd appreciate the omission of seam allowance, but there you go.

The fewer rules you've got to go by, the easier it is to modify - which is what this book is all about.

In addition to the basic shapes, Wendy shows you how to make different sorts of pockets and facings and collars and other fancy design elements.

Here's the deal: You have to be willing to do some simple pattern drafting or this book isn't for you. When I say simple - I mean it's all clearly articulated and info provided. But it's not a cut-, or even trace-and-go. You still have to do the work.

The general process (not "supa-quick easy" - but, let's face it, no sewing is):

• You read the book.
• You trace your first sloper (sheath, shift or dirndl), in your presumed size (Measure it first - I've learned from experience that the measurements provided aren't necessarily accurate on the pattern.) This takes a good hour.
  
• You add seam allowances - size is your choice, but she recommends.
• You make a muslin. (It's a simple one - 4 pieces max. I did mine in an hour, which is insanely fast.)
• You fix it to fit yourself perfectly. (Not suggesting this is easy, but that is the gist of it).
• You reflect those changes on your master paper pattern (the paper sloper).
• You use it as a guide to make any number of dresses suggested (in some detail) within that pattern type chapter. Maybe you merge a few of the ideas and come up with your own!
• Start again with Sloper 2...
  

With this book, raw creativity will get you almost as far as technical skill but you're best to have a smattering of each, rather than a surfeit of either.

I bought this book as soon as it came out (I preordered) and read it immediately. Still, it took me till this week to start working on the patterns contained within.

Why?

Well, it's a bit of a commitment. I had to be ready to think and pattern alter (albeit in the simple - but smart - "Wendy-style").

Today I finished the Shift sloper and I was amazed by how well the medium fit with no alterations. It could be a smidgy smaller in some spots (tighter seam allowances will easily fix that) and shorter (I slashed it up 5 inches). But the bust (36-37") actually fit more or less perfectly. If I use a fabric with a tiny amount of stretch (my preference for a lot of reasons), so much the better! Note: I do prefer a close, if not tight, fit in all of my garments.

I may actually use the sloper as a pattern, un-embellished - it's a bold idea, I realize. I've also decided on the variation I'll try: "Deep Impact" (page 127), a sleeveless, deep-V, empire, pleated number. Sounds all wrong for my body-type but I think I can make it work.

A lot of reviewers have commented on the wealth of great sloper embellishments (aka patterns) offered within. I have to be honest - I don't gravitate toward most of them. For me, they're too hippie or young or designed for straight figures. But that doesn't mean I won't benefit from this book tremendously.

One other thing: You can make this as easy (within reason) or challenging as you choose. This book will follow your development as a sewist. So go out and buy it. If you don't like it, you can call me to complain!

Retrofitting

Vogue Very Easy 8123 took me 2 weeks - a eternity by my own standards. I will admit that the instructions were clear, though I wish they'd just told me how to line the freakin' jacket (I can't easily extrapolate that with my current skill level) so that I wouldn't have had to come up with an alternative seam-treatment solution (aka seam binding). It's a pretty, vintage technique - which the pattern didn't instruct about - I just winged it by modeling the sewing experiences of others - but it's a time suck.

At any rate, I am happy with the results. I used a felted wool (I think) with a little bit of 4 way stretch - just a bit. Originally, I cut the pattern and did an FBA (full bust adjustment) but realized, after spending hours on the adjustment and the muslin, that it was grossly unneeded given the loose-fit and ease built into the pattern. The alteration itself was much more successful than my last attempt.

This time, I didn't do the Y variation - just the regular one - and then I managed to figure out how to remove the side dart by moving it to the front waist (which would have looked weird) and then shifting it to the side seam i.e. cutting it off. In the end, I managed to add room in the bust with NO discernible dart. That's a pretty spiffy alteration that I had to search high and low to find out about. I'm pretty proud of myself for having nabbed it, even if unnecessarily.

My second muslin (yes, I made 2?!), cut from the regular size 12 - but shortened through the waist to accommodate my proportions - showed the largely unaltered pattern sizing was fine and here are the finished results:

Sorry the photo is dark - it was tough to get a light enough shot...

That button is a fake! I used snaps to afix the collar ends. My button binder couldn't handle a button that big.

Vogue Doesn't Put Out...

...despite what they try to tell you on the package.

This little pattern (Vogue 8123), is part of a series known as Very Easy Vogue:

That's not exactly truth in marketing.

I mean, if they want to call it "Not so Crazy Difficult but Incredibly Time Consuming" Vogue or "It's Easier than Your Average Vaguely Tailored Retro Jacket" Vogue or "Why Not Just Line this Thing - It's Faster than Bias Binding the Seams or Sending a Guy to the Moon" Vogue, I'm all over it. But Very Easy. Hmmm.

I made it, I should know. Pls. stay tuned for some pics tomorrow...

Front and Back

Photos courtesy of desiretoinspire

As read on desiretoinspire, this adorable (but moody) house front hides a light and airy, modern interior. I mean, just look at that backyard! (You know how I love me an urban garden.)

Oh, and it recently sold for 1.5 mill AUS. So it may be a while before it's back on the market.

Thoughts?

This is a Post About Denim Leggings

If you don't want to buy stuff, may I suggest you don't go shopping?

I've done insanely "well" for more than 3 months - not buying any new clothing. Tuesday I had a wardrobe malfunction and had to replace (and on-the-spot toss) a pair of trouser jeans that was literally falling apart (ok).

Today, I went shopping for my husband. Yeah, he hasn't bought himself an item of clothing in 15 years. It's all good. He wears everything I buy and I have great taste. Between the 2 of us, he's rocking a mid-40's hot guy thing.

I go out for him once or twice a year. It's been a year now, I'm sure because just about everything in his closet needs to be, um, retired. I found myself with 45 minutes to kill after work and decided to fill in the basics.

All was well until I quickly "nipped" into Club Monaco. I thought I was over that place but apparently I'm like a recovering ice cream-aholic. (Wait, I am a recovering ice cream-aholic.)

I thought I could check out some pants and be done with it.

Long story short, I am the new owner of my second pair of denim leggings. Please don't call them deggings or jeggings or leans or anything else. I wish I could show you a photo but the Club Monaco people are so cheap with those.

Said pants zip and button on the side. They are entirely flat front and without embellishment or pockets on the ass. They're actually practically fitted capris a la 1950. But full length and dark-wash indigo.

They are very flattering but not vanity sized - alas - and not cheap. 140 bucks later I exited the shop with an item which, essentially, I already own.

So why did I buy them?

Well, I wanted them. I know I'll wear them into the ground (much as I'm doing with the first pair, my Guido and Mary's). Oh, and I have a thing for denim. Some may call it a problem - but jeans are like shoes to me. Only I have many fewer pairs of jeans than your average shoe addict has shoes.

I wear jeans 3 - 5 x per week. That's kind of a lot. I dress them up and down. I express my inner bad ass, my demure American preppy. People tell me I look good in them.

I know I look good in them.

This isn't an item I can sew (yet). Sewing has taken a back seat the last couple of weeks (not in my mind but in application) because I've been so busy dealing with all the things I have to deal with. I guess I feel the lack of new textiles. I do love the feel of clothing. The joy of something that is new to me and flattering and fun.

So that's my rationale.

This isn't a post where I justify my purchasing in light of my no-fritter challenge. I justified it to myself, on the spot, when I made the choice to buy. I mention this because I don't intend to be one of those non-shoppers who goes guilty when she buys. It's not my way.

When I show them off with my new, handmade jacket (I know, you've totally lost faith that you'll ever see a photo of that sucker), just don't want you wondering how they came to be.

But I do intend to continue on my no-shopping path till June. So I guess it's out of the stores for me. Good to know.

Meander

Photo courtesy of High Park Nature Centre

Thanks to Anabela for keeping me posted on sakura hanami (cherry blossom viewing). Check this out for more information about how to enjoy some spectacular Toronto scenery.

And for Tessa:

when cherry blossoms
scatter…
no regrets

by Kobayashi Issa (1763 - 1828)