Monday, March 18, 2013

The Lure of the Handmade Bra...

You know how I went through a phase of making bras. Really pretty bras, they were, but not a one of them fit.

The fit fell down in the following ways:
  • Wires had minimal integrity (not strong, peeps, and I bought different ones in numerous places)
  • Fabrics were firm, but I didn't really know how to firm up some flimsy ones - ok, let's call them delicate - so that I could use those as pretty contrast. I also couldn't make the bands firm enough
  • The cups, regardless of what crazy-ass size I decided to make (and I tried 5 different cup sizes) were always too shallow over the full bust point, resulting in a gore that would not lie flat but, frequently, cups that were too large in the top and bottom of the cups (note, the flimsy wires probably didn't help the centre gore to tack at the breastbone...)
Alas, the beauty of continuing to learn about things is that one is welcome to revisit concepts with new ideas. I'm almost ready to start trying the hand-sewn bra thing again.

So, what's giving me the push to try again?
  • I recently dissected some of my RTW bras that had seen better days (oh, so traumatizing) and kept the wires. This means I'll have better support and an opportunity to compare RTW wires against the ones I've bought online for a) shape b) length c) proportion at either side (underarm and centre).
  • I have a better sense of how to underline things now and how to use delicate fabrics more sturdily.
  • I've finally figured out what depth of cup I need at the full bust i.e. over the centre apex from underarm to centre chest. It's 10.5 - 11 inches, fyi. That's very deep through the centre but quickly less deep above and below that apex.
  •  I've determined that I need close set gores at heights of 2.5 inches (if plunge) or 3 inches (if balconette).
  • I want 3 hooks and eyes and a side band of 3 inches in height. Or a long line. It's not that I can't wear bras with 2 hooks, but - in order to provide the superior lift that I will not forgo - the fabric and construction must be very good if when I do. I think I should leave that to the RTW bra experts.
This gives me a lot of new information to work with.

Furthermore, I sense I've been trying to make bras using the pattern size associated with my UK bra size. That's rather different, once one gets into the larger sizes, that the EU or US bra sizes that all of my patterns are likely constructed in (some are European, some are Canadian). Don't get me wrong, I deviated from my RTW sticker size by a variety of cups in all kinds of ways. But it didn't occur to me at the time that I am basically 3 bra sizes in one as a result of being:
  • very full in the centre cup, but narrow from side to side,  and
  • very narrow in the back and shoulders 
Wires are the key to it all, I've come to understand. Wires and band tightness.

If you have, for example, a wire that's 11 inches long (and that's about the wire length I prefer), it might be very shallow under the bust and wide OR very narrow under the bust and long. It can also be bent so that it's narrowed on one side and widened on the other. Point is, the shape matters - and it particularly matters when you're trying to get fabric to lie over a very specific volume between those wires.

So, for my own purposes, and in case you're interested, my next handmade bra (when and if I choose to make it) will be constructed in accordance with the following:
  • Underlined lace in top cups, bottom cups in stable fabric
  • Band that stretches taut to 31 inches max
  • RTW bra, reclaimes wires
  • 3 inch, close set gore (reinforced)
  • 3 inch side band (underlined for maximal stability) - maybe with boning
  • 3 hooks (unless I figure out how to make a long line, in which case 6 hooks and boned sides)
  • Depth of 11 inches at the centre apex
  • Straps at 1/2 or 5/8 width
Truth is, peeps, I'm highly unmotivated to experience another hand-crafted bra disappointment, especially since I've found some awesomely fitted (if ridiculously expensive) RTW options. Furthermore, I WILL NOT wear a bra that does not lift, support and look freakin' awesome (which is to say a) hot and b) expensive). If I can't crack the code for myself, then I'm super glad there are manufacturers out there who know what they're doing.

Since I started sewing in 2009 (and, btw, bras were one of the first things I tackled in light of my LOVE of lingerie), I've observed how popular bra-sewing has become. I'm excited to find more people are taking on the challenge, because more sewists means more knowledge and - likely - better materials (as demand grows). Also, it's nice to have company!

Having said this, I think it's critical to remember:
  • If you've never worn a bra that fits, you're very unlikely to make one that does. So get fitted first. And refer to this post.
  • If you're above a 32 band size and a DD cup size, chances are the wires you find are not going to give adequate support. So, unless you've got very light breasts that have yet to experience the ravages of gravity, you may not be able to achieve the sort of lift that will provide your most attractive silhouette.
  • Furthermore, the larger your breast volume and density, the more important it is that the materials you use be firm. Underline anything with stretch. And make sure the bottom cup does not stretch at all.
So, that's my diatribe du jour. Today's questions: Do you know what cup depth you require? (Given how obsessed with boobs and bras I seem to be, this is a recent realization for me...) Do you read Bratabase? This site is dedicated to tracking the minutiae of every bra's fit by refering to standardized measurements (of which depth is one, go figure!) I have to be honest, the site doesn't really work for me - though I do appreciate its aim. And, finalement, if you have successfully made bras to fit large breasts (and by successfully I mean bras that fit beautifully, look terrific and provide great support) can you give us some advice.

19 comments:

  1. I shall follow this thread with interest! As fuller bosomed gal with a limited budget I'd love to be able to make astonishingly beautiful and well fitted bras. I'm glad that there is more info out there but good supplies are still less abundant. I can't wait to see what advice other readers give...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That's the trick - beautiful and well fitted! I've heard that Kaantjebord (totally mispelled, I'm sure) has very good supplies. Next time I"m in Amsterdam I am committed to checking that place out. Shipping is absurd from there (like a zillion dollars, even to the UK). You've got to give those kids to their grandparents and take a lost weekend in the Netherlands soon. You're so (relatively) close!

      Delete
    2. I'm pretty sure the husband wouldn't take too much convincing. And it's only an hour by plane. Perhaps when his bonus comes through we should treat ourselves...

      Delete
  2. Blogger ate my comment!

    Kristin, add me to your list if eager followers in this bra making journey. I tried it once, took a 2 day class in Hamilton. The class sucked and left me unmotivated to try that again. They just weren't the fitting experts they claimed to be.

    Where are you planning to get your fabrics from ?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I hate when that happens. Ah, I know where you took your class and I have to say I don't think much of that place. The bra patterns are not great, IMO, and I don't enjoy the customer service. I have ordered many of my supplies from there, out of necessity, but I don't love them (as you can see).

      Delete
    2. Should have said, I'm trying to figure out where next to get fabric from. Europe is the best place, apparently. I've heard good things about Sew Sassy. ElingeriA is an option (but expensive shipping, if I remember correctly). Danglez is having a closing down sale so everything left is well-priced. As mentioned above, Kaantjebord is "the place" apparently, but it's super expensive to ship. The options are far and few, all things considered.

      Delete
    3. Agree on all counts about that place. I have a few other friends who went there and had very bad experiences.

      Good luck with the fabric. I think a sewing blogger is doing a group order from the kaantjebord Website. I think it's Rene of miss Celie's pants...

      Delete
  3. I'm torn on this too. On one hand, I'd love to be able to make beautiful bras that fit, but on the other, I haven't yet been able to figure out how to make one that fits the way I want/need. Like you, I refuse to have one that doesn't provide a lot of lift and support.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's a challenge, for sure. I'm sure it will sort itself out. In the meanwhile, I look on with envy at the pretty, handmade, small-busted bras.

      Delete
  4. Huh. I had no clue about cup depth. I'm going to have to investigate this. That said, I haven't gotten around to wanting to make bras yet. It seems like you really have to make a bunch before you figure out what works and I'm not sure I'm there yet.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh - it's a whole thing! And an extremely useful measurement at that. Go to Bratabase, sign up and then check out your bras (in your size) - hopefully they'll be listed - to see what cup depth you require in a bra. Also, put on your best fitting bra and then measure the cup horizontally over the apex from wire to wire. Fascinating info.

      Delete
  5. I use bratabase, but only for the photos (i.e. to determine what a bra will look like in my size, rather than the B or C cup that the model is wearing...)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I suggest taking all the measurements (inputted on the site) from your best fitting bra. I suspect it will help you a lot with online ordering...

      Delete
  6. We should get together and compare some bra supplies. I've bought some wires from Sew Sassy that are crazy thick. I'm a bit jet lagged at the moment so organizing my thoughts is not working so well.

    I do understand your frustration. I've made many bras that don't fit and two that I really liked. It's not a great ratio and yet I still feel the itch to try again.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm impressed that you found thick wires! I suppose the impulse to make the best kind of garment of them all is deeply ingrained :-) Let me know when your jet lag disappears. Oh, and did your husband actually "win" the award or - as you suspected - was he nominated? Intrigued to know.

      Delete
    2. Just nominated but the films at the festival were incredible. A fantastic opportunity for networking. I'm going to post soon-ish, but I have almost too much to write and while I feel good in the daytime, evenings are still pretty sluggish.

      Delete
    3. Hey, that's awesome. Can't say I've ever been nominated at an international film festival! :-) Can't wait to hear more about it.

      Delete
  7. wonderful that you're tackling it again! You should totally have a go at drafting your own, around your favorite underwire. Which is the best way to get the fit. Everyone's apex is different, too--and is easier to fiddle with in vertical seams. Btw, I have underwires in multiple sizes from all the retail bra sellers now, and those with the heaviest gauge are from corsetmaking.co.uk. Elingeria's are the lightest.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Well, your sew along has most definitely motivated me to keep working away at this. Vertical seams really are excellent because they give lift and openness at the top of the cup. I'm going to look into corsetmaking...

      Delete