Sunday, May 29, 2016

Finished Object: Yes, I have Made Another Kielo...

It's hotter than hell outside and I LOVE it! So easy (if sticky). I went for breakfast on a patio, natch, then for espresso on another patio. Then walking to the grocery store. When we got home, Scott and I did a really lively yoga practice - the kind where you sweat so much that you have to be careful.

Brief side-note: I find that yoga is most exuberant when it's hot out, even though I'm not into classes where the temp is artificially raised. Natural heat is organic - as one's body adjusts to the temp in the outside world. Piped in heat, when it's freezing and/or damp outside, is quite another - and it's not good for my biochemistry. Makes me feel sick. The kind of energy you generate in a hot class, because it's actually hot outside, is distinct from that which is foisted upon you. Never mind that fake heat is dry and often includes undesirable particulate matter (in older buildings). This is why I can get with the "hot" nature of Ashtanga or fast vinyasa - you make that heat for yourself - and not with Bikram. (Well, there are so many reasons why I can't get with Birkram...) Every summer I'm reminded of how easy it is to be a yogi in a warm climate.

Yesterday I did make my latest version of the Kielo Wrap dress, tie-free:


It's an interesting story: I did not have enough of this bamboo fabric to cut it on the grain (so that the little knit stitches form vertical wales). Having said that, I had more than enough to cut it against the grain. Given that it's a 4-way stretch fabric with good recovery (and of good quality), I figured it wouldn't hurt to give it a go and cut against the grain. And, except for the fact that the back on this version is hanging differently and slightly longer than the front (I fixed it while hemming), it's ok. Whether this dress keeps it shape in the long-run remains to be seen.

Of course, I'm driven by order so the fact that this fabric sits horizontally, rather than vertically, drives me a bit nuts. I suspect, no one else will be able to tell and, natch, it's a design choice. But I'm still rule-bound.

It's a bit observable below, if you know what you're looking for, mainly because of the slightly marled nature of the fabric.


On the plus side, I do think my top stitching is improving - largely because I've slowed the fuck down. I used a single needle on my sewing machine for the neck and armholes, but I did coverstitch the hem. Ever since I started coverstitching "correctly" my stitches seem to want to fall out when I finish, despite my careful stitching over the stitches made at the beginning of the hem. Gotta look up ways to avoid that because re-sewing over those stitches, with a sewing machine, to secure them, is time-consuming, a bit ugly and perhaps not the most stable technique. I should also get one of those clear presser-feet but I'm not spending money on gear 3 seconds before a reno and, really, the coverstitch accessories are not cheap.

I lowered the neckline (and next time, I think I might go a bit lower still). The arms fit better since I scooped them out slightly, to account for the bound armholes, but I think I can go scoopier still.

You can see my Hudson pant fabric cut out in the background. I've got 2 pairs ready to go but I cannot bring myself to sew them in a heatwave!
This was not a quick process and I did encounter a few blips, albethey fixable. Took me 5 hours to make the dress, though that was from start to finish - threading my machines with the right colours, altering the pattern again slightly, cutting and marking the fabric and then sewing. Just hemming takes a good 30 minutes when you want to achieve a really nice finish.

I wore it out this morning and it works quite well. And it'll be perfectly fine for the office too.

What do you think of my off-the-grain strategy? Would it drive you nuts? Do you think I'm merely practical and not crazy? Whatcha think of the latest version? I swear, I won't inflict any new versions of this on you any time soon. :-)

14 comments:

  1. Honestly, I zoned out on the technical descriptions. I've sewn a lot back in the day, but I was pretty boring about following patterns, didn't have your fascination with adapting patterns nor your tenacity -- and thus never developed your astonishing skillset. But I do love the look of that dress! As for summer heat, bring it on, as long as it stops at about 27. . . I'm a bit nervous about city life when it gets much warmer than that. Here at the beach we've always been spoiled by a breeze, and even if it's mid 30s or so, we can go for a dip. In our urban apartment, we'll have to see -- I really dislike air conditioning. . .

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I zone out on my own technical descriptions so I get it. I'm just compelled to mention these things for the 5 people who might one day see this post and benefit from the details... I don't think you need to worry too much about your new city being warmer than 27C for too much of they year, happily. But global warming and all?! Does your new home have a pool?

      I really dislike AC also - though we have it on now, set to 25C. This is the first time in 16 years of living here that we've turned it on before the late July heatwave. We usually run it for a week or 2 a year - again, just to take the edge off. I'm amazed that our unit still works as we've never had it serviced in all the years we've lived here and it goes through outrageous winter weather. I guess, in the same way one can get a crappy appliance, there are good ones too. I wonder how it will fare when they reconnect it after the reno (it's central AC). If it doesn't work, we will not be having it replaced.

      Delete
  2. The dress looks great! Love it in that dark gray color. Having the fabric cut on the cross grain would drive me a bit bonkers, not that anyone would notice or even know it's wrong! I cut a pair of kid leggings that way once and every time she wore them (a favorite, natch, because mommy made them!) I cringed. I was so happy when she outgrew them! But seriously - wear this dress regardless, because it's lovely!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks! I'm so glad you know what I mean - it's just wrong in my mind! :-)

      Delete
  3. Love it! Your topstitching looks great.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks G! I'm not displeased this time. I still have much improvement to do - my coverstitching is, um, inconsistent. But one thing at a time.

      Delete
  4. Replies
    1. Thank you! Have you thought of taking up sewing? I'm sure you'd be great at it.

      Delete
  5. I like the cross grain strategy, I used to always slavishly follow the "rules". Now I don't and I'm surprised how often everything works out. I am going to cut out a knit maxi skirt on the cross grain today. Wish me luck!

    Can I say how dazzled I am by how tidy your sewing space is? Absolutely nothing like mine. 8-)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. OK - inasmuch as I feel all kinds of icky about cutting against the grain, I love to know that you are a bad ass and that it all works out. I am confident your skirt will be great and we can start a little club :-)

      FYI, my sewing room was cleaned up after the project so it's not like I was in the middle of things! And I use that room as my yoga space as well - so it must stay tidy for that purpose. All the creative ladies need their own kinds of space, right?

      Delete
  6. Sometimes you just have to go with the flow....and mostly it works. This is a prime example. Gorgeous!

    ReplyDelete
  7. It really is true. I could've kept that fabric in the closet - and gone out to spend lots more / bring in more stuff. Instead, I had a bit of an adventure and the dress doesn't seem worse off because of it! I've worn it like 4 times already?!

    ReplyDelete
  8. Debbie Cook has a great selection of tutorials for using a overstitch machine. Here is the one for ending your stitching: http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com/2001/01/coverstitch-how-to-end-coverstitch.html

    Lois K

    ReplyDelete
  9. Wonderful stuff; I really appreciate all of your technicality; sewing IS architecture! If you ever get a chance, I'd love to see your pattern alterations; I have this dress on my radar, but I'm built much more like you than the amazonian this was drafted for/

    ReplyDelete