Monday, May 23, 2016

Finished Object: Kielo Wrap Dress - The Wrap Version

I'm pretty happy with my second version of the Kielo Wrap Dress. This one actually includes the ties:

Named Patterns - Kielo Wrap Dress
Stupidly, I didn't get a shot of the full dress before my flash gave up the charge. I'm particularly happy with the length from armpit to natural waist. I removed 4 inches from this bodice in 2 places and I managed to do so such that the drape was maintained.

It falls about an inch above the knee and it's quite elegant in this mauve-meets-aubergine modal:

I did narrow the front collar width this time - I removed about 0.5" total, so not much but it hangs better. I also stitched the binding on with more negative ease to give it a bit of additional tension.

I'm very fond of the back construction. The darts are really well-placed both vertically and horizontally (I did modify them) and my waist-ties are actually aligned with my waist.

I'm even improving my coverstitched hems:

I'm not giving up my day job but this is better than my previous attempts.
Admittedly, this hem took an absurd amount of time (30 minutes?) as I:
  • Serged the raw edge.
  • Folded the hem and pressed on both sides.
  • Aligned hem tape on the raw edge side. Pressed.
  • Removed upper paper from pressed hem tape. Pressed the raw edge to the main fabric - to make the hem. This keeps both sides of the fabric easily attached while you stitch. (This tape is more useful than I'd imagined, fyi. It totally prevents that easing issue that can occur between the raw side and main fabric side of the hem as you sew.)
  • Set up the coverstitch machine.
  • Added a marker made of scotch tape (with a pen-line) to ensure I'd be able to stitch straight.
  • Stitched the hem.
  • Figured out how to stop the hem from unravelling (even though I coverstitched over the ends). Note: My coverstitch hems NEVER unravel cuz they're usually knotted all to shit. So I'm taking this as progress.
  • Pressed the finished hem on both sides.
This time I serged the raw edge of the hem before coverstitching it (because my fabric edge was a bit more jagged than usual).


The modal drapes beautifully and is adequately weighty.

My workmanship was in good shape as I put this dress together. Phew.

My mother got my previous, tie-free version because I couldn't fit it in my suitcase after buying a batch of new bed linens, as well as a new pair of shoes and a bunch of yarn. Gotta say, I almost prefer the Kielo without the ties because it's much more mod. But this version will work well for days when I have fancy briefings and I can't bear to wear sleeves since it's 30C. (Note: I will not complain about that weather cuz it's a gift from the gods.)

I could almost see myself making this in a maxi length - if I could find a light enough (but hefty enough) fabric - something like a stretch linen (if such a thing exists).

I also downloaded the free sleeve pattern piece. I'll have to alter it substantively (to meet the dimensions of my highly altered armscye) but I'm hoping my sloper will keep this relatively clear and simple.

All in all, I cannot recommend this dress enough - and I was seriously on the fence about its potential to begin with. It's easy, it's fast, it's chic, it's modifiable, it's multiple styles in one pattern. It's really wearable and will work with a topper for extra warmth. You just have to ensure that you modify it for your vertical proportions and ensure that the armscye works. That's easier said than done, I realize, but it's worth it (if you like this dress) because it's actually scalable. It will simply take a bit of knowledge and effort, on that front.

So, whatcha think?

23 comments:

  1. Love this! This dress has been on my "want" list for a long time.

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    1. You should totally make it! It's very fun and totally cute to wear.

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  2. Very nice. Mood carries some linen knit fabric, but it's pretty sheer..

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    1. I guess I'm just going to have to keep my eyes open. But, realistically, if I don't find it soon, I'll be waiting until next summer to make this again - I only have the sewga room till beginning of August, based on current reno schedule.

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  3. YAY! Any dress that looks like a knockout on a dress form is going to look even better on you, I'm absolutely certain. I'm going to pat myself on the back for suggesting this pattern! I think you should make a maxi version ASAP - this one for work, and maxi one for play!

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    1. You deserve all the credit!!! And you should make this too.

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  4. birdmommy/E McAfeeMay 23, 2016 at 8:37 PM

    Love it! I'm so happy that I get to live vicariously through you.

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    1. Yay! But now you have to make it :-)

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  5. Excellent! This pattern has been on my list for a while, I've wondered why I don't see more Kielos on the web. I think it would be awesome to figure out some way to make removeable ties, so you could have the option to wear it either way. Grommets and spaghetti ties? Some way of attaching them that also looks like a design element when the ties aren't there. Lovely make, and I appreciate the work on how to make it fit.

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    1. I know - there really aren't that many versions given how truly excellent the pattern is. It's so RTW! I think the issue is that maybe some newer sewists have made it and it didn't work, because perhaps they didn't alter it for their particular bodies. I can imagine it would be a very bad outcome under those circumstances - which might result in fewer reviews... Interesting idea about figuring out how to attach the ties when you want them. I'm going to think more about that. But I sense it wouldn't work because they wouldn't be integral enough to bring the drape to the wrapped bodice.

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  6. Oh, meant to add: stretch linen is awesome, though yes, tends to be see through. Linen is my very favorite fabric. I wonder if it would be possible to make this in a lightweight woven linen? After it softened it might be marvelous!

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    1. Too bad about the see-throughness?! I'm sure you could make it in a woven but you'd need to alter the sizing to account for lack of stretch. And, in that case, I'd def need to return the bust dart. I'm not so into that idea for me, though I think it could be great for others.

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  7. Ooh! This has been on my "Maybe I love this and should sew it, but maybe I will hate it when it's done" list for ages. I think this moves it to the "sew this" list.

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    1. You MUST make it. It would totally suit your shape, prob with minimal alteration given the length of your torso. You'd likely want to work the armholes / bust a bit. Just go from your fave fitted t shirt sloper.

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  8. Go you!!!!! You definitely deserved this win. :)

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  9. Love it! This is one of my fave dress patterns. I've only made it twice, but see more in my future. I hope you love yours as much as I love mine!

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    1. Gail - did you blog about yours? I don't recall seeing posts but I want to see your versions!!

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    2. No, I didn't - only Instagram pictures :-)

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    3. Damn! You know I can't get with Instagram. OK, I'm going to figure it out. Cuz I must see your handiwork.

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    4. LOL! I can just email you pics if you want!

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  10. I have seen high end £1000 dresses that aren't as beautifully made as this. Its stunning.

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    1. Evie - you always know exactly what to say!! :-) xoxo

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