Bad news - it doesn't fit. In fact, the fit of the uppercups is actually bigger and worse than ever - despite my continued efforts (4 versions-worth) to take volume out of it with darts.
The point is - what I'm doing is somehow making the top cup bigger (don't ask me how - I've only the dimmest sense of it at the moment). This means, chances are if I do the opposite all will aright in the world :-) (OK, I am applying more analysis to it than this...)
I have so much to tell you. So many ideas about how to fix this issue. BTW, I'm totally making them up. I mean, I'm not following Sarah Veblen's book on lingerie cup fitting and alterations. (Don't you wish that woman would write a book on this?!)
In extreme briefness - to be revisited in the next post:
- I nailed the band. It is the understatement of the century to tell you that this is a joy. Honestly, I want to cry from joy.
- The lower cups fit my larger breast perfectly. Once I sort this out, I'm going to have to draft a right cup that's about 1/4-1/2 size smaller than the left.
- I really improved with the straps this time. I mean, it was still a misery but it wasn't a nightmare. I did bang the shit out of the seams before stitching (btw, I did that on the last version too but it didn't work; this time it seems to have) and I made the part of the cup which attaches to the straps slightly less wide.
I guess I only have opportunities to improve my form.
Let me leave you with this: I have not been successful but I finally reached a point of grudging optimism. This is a great mystery to be solved. I think I've got a couple more muslins in me before I burn out with this phase of bra sewing. And if I crack the code, just imagine...