And to use my new coverstitch machine to its best advantage, in the process!
Here's my situation (and I haven't been able to find much out there on the topic):
I'd like to stabilize the neckline - which is sewn by simply turning the raw edge under and stitching (according to the directions).
My choice method would be to use 1/4 inch clear elastic (I love this stuff). Before I got the CoverPro, I'd have attached it with my serger, turned the hem under and top stitched with my regular machine. Now that I have the coverstitch machine, I'd like to use it to neatly coverstitch the neckline down.
As far as I can tell, using the serger to apply the elastic before coverstitching will result in a messy, bulky wrong-side with tons of looper thread (first the serger thread followed by the coverstitch thread). However, given how the coverstitch machine works (which I barely understand, admittedly), it seems like the coverstitch might not adequately catch the elastic as I'm stitching, if I don't first have it adhered to the wrong-side, raw-edge of the fabric (which is what the serging would do).
I've read that you can use iron-on adhesive (like Heat n Bond) to hold the elastic down between the layers of the turned up hem prior to coverstitching but, having never used this product, I don't know how I'd go about it.
I suppose I could also simply use knit stay tape, instead of clear elastic, to give the edge a bit of ballast before coverstitching, but I sense that will leave the neckline vulnerable to stretching in the long run.
And, natch, I could just forgo the coverstitch on the neckline, in favour of my serger method (though my new Husqvarna doesn't seem to love top-stitching stretch fabric - at least not yet).
So, here are the questions:
- Is there a tutorial to show how to attach 1/4 inch elastic to a turned under hem using a coverstitch machine? OR Is there no way to do this reliably?
- Can you use the clear elastic with the coverstitch machine by applying iron-on adhesive first and, if yes, how exactly?
- Do you think that knit stay tape (like fusible interfacing in a strip) will do the trick?
- Is the serger method the best way to go? (I really want a stunning double top stitch on the neckline and that's a crap shoot with my regular machine.)
- I understand that V1027 is designed for a 2-way knit (only). My intention is to use modal with 4 way stretch (having very good recovery). If anyone else has made it using 4-way stretch fabric, can you confirm that the pattern works? If it doesn't, pls. do tell me now!
Posts
Sorry if this goes up twice...the first one disappeared.
ReplyDeleteI don't have a serger, but I use a twin needle for topstitching the way you are describing. I sew the seam. Then I pin the elastic between the seam allowance and the wrong side, and topstitching the right side.
Love that pattern!
Thanks Anon! I've done that too. Trying to switch it up this time...
DeleteI have found that using the sewing machine to attach the clear elastic, then turn and cover stitch, works the best. A nice looking finish . I can't it to see your complete dress.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the feedback. It seems like this is the safest method (and cleanest)...
Deleteoooh can't wait to see this! i've eyed this pattern for a long time and finally remembered to pick it up (yesterday!) at the latest joanns pattern sale. i have no coverstitch advice, but i would probably forgo the turning and stitching for a binding of some sort. that always feels the most stable. can't wait to see it!
ReplyDeleteI never know how a new pattern is going to fit - so I'm always apprehensive. With knits there are SO many variables (only two of them being my boobs). I'm really hoping it's going to be a successful dress. There have been so many great reviews.
DeleteI would probably baste it on with the sewing machine using a slight zigzag, and then flip and coverstitch it in place. But, there's probably some better ideas than that from others. :-)
ReplyDeleteSeems like that's a popular choice though, thanks!
DeleteFirst no iron on the clear elastic. It will melt! I've never had much luck w/clear elastic but what I'd do is use the regular machine and a teflon foot to attach it before you cover stitch. It sticks to a regular foot. Stretch ever so slightly when you apply the elastic. There's really no way that you can cover stitch and hold the elastic in place at the same time.
ReplyDeleteMy preference for stabilizing that type of neckline is super fine Design Plus iron on stay tape. Sounds like you have something similar. It WILL keep the neckline from stretching when worn. Heck, it prevents anything from stretching. Ask me how I know!
D: Do you use the stay tape instead of clear elastic - and it provides enough firmness (but doesn't stiffen the fabric)? Glad to know that I'm right about thinking that the elastic can't be sewn while coverstitching (that previous attachment is necessary).
DeleteI have made this dress (I think it was 4 way stretch) and it is so fabulous, yet comfortable. I zigzagged clear elastic to the front edges with the SM, as others have suggested. I used a wide longish ZZ. Then I turned under the edge and topstitched with the CS machine. I used a 1:1 ratio with the elastic and front edges. Clear elastic is a b!tch to work with IMO, but useful in this application. You really need to "baste" it in place when beginning. Never heard of using fusible product with it. If it didn't melt, it would still be a mess, so I recommend against that method.
ReplyDeleteThanks Meredith! My concern about using my sewing machine to do the basting is that I sense it's not going to do the best work (between delicate knit and the texture of the elastic, it's not optimal). Mind you, my serger (which could take care of the issue with no problem, will leave lots of loops...
DeleteI'm trying to figure out whether I care more about the stability of the elastic or the professional quality of the top-stitch if I use my coverstitch. It seems like I'm going to have to make a trade off.
The elastic was fine on mine, when I just ZZ it in. Fewer holes than serging. And the coverstitch just laughs when top-stitching this type of thing. Looks excellent. You just need the elastic anchored to the fabric when you fold it over. Unless you were Superwoman and could do it all in one step. No one will ever know. ;-)
DeleteThe coverstitch really is a strong machine, having used it a few times I see how it will be just fine with the elastic. Next time I'll try to zig zag it in before top stitching with the coverstitch.
DeleteYes, use the stay tape instead. Line the edge up with the cut edge to fuse. Mine is 1/2" and folded back it gives a nice crisp edge to press and stitch. When fusing you could gently stretch the tape right at the neckline cross to snug it up a bit. Practice on a scrap first as some fabrics vary and don't take well to trying to stretch the tape.
ReplyDeleteIf you're worried about a gaping neckline take 1/4" off at the shoulder tapering to nothing at the armhole. That will snug it up more. I sometimes automatically do it with crossover necklines.
One other thing with the cover stitch. Don't be dismayed if it looks a bit wavy after you stitch. Give it a good shot of steam and it will be flat again. I thought of that today after I used mine on a neckline.
Have fun! You will love this machine when you get the hang of it.
OK. Having never used this tape before, I'm def going to have to try it on scraps - even just to understand what you mean by stretching to snug it. And thanks so much about telling me to steam the seam after coverstitching. That's great info.
DeletePatty used a 4 way stretch on her first version of this and I recall it working quite well!
ReplyDeleteI don't know how easily you could stretch the clear elastic while simultaneously coverstitching it. My thought is the serge then turn is the more functional application.
That's right - I remember that now that you mention it. I don't think it's in the cards to apply the elastic with the coverstitch. Thanks for corroborating...
DeleteI used a lycra-type full-stretch-in-every-direction & it behaved itself from start to finish! No advice on stay tape or the sorts sorry, but consider experimenting with a double needle for a topstitch if you are undecided on the coverstitch approach! This is an amazing pattern & one you will be extremely happy with.....just beware it runs kinda BIG!
ReplyDeleteI've not even heard of that tape. Does it fuse on or do you stitch it in place? I've read lots of the reviews so I know it runs big. I'm going to size down, thanks!
DeleteI don't have any advice for you - just wanted to let you know that I am anxious to see this dress finished, as I bought the pattern yesterday, having fallen for it after seeing it here!
ReplyDeleteHope it all works well for you with zero frustration!
Ha! So I can be the guinea pig :-) I SO hope there's a low frustration quotient in this project. Really.
DeleteI use a fusible stay tape cut 1/4" shorter than the length to pull the neckline in slightly in. The edge is turned, stitched in place, and I've never had a problem with it stretching out.
ReplyDeleteM: Is fusible stay tape the same as that knit tape I iron on? (I suspect yes.) And then do you coverstitch the top stitching?
DeleteLOL - bought a cover stitch and took it back. I use a twin needle.
DeleteOooh, really? Do you have a post about that?
Deletei love your shout outs for advice. i always seem to want exactly what you're wanting...
ReplyDeleteThat's so handy!
DeleteI use the coverstitch with clear elastic. I use WonderTape to hold the elastic. I apply the tape to the wrong side raw edge. Then stick on the elastic, fold over and stitch. You need to go slowly to keep the elastic flat and from stretching out. I also needed to play with the tensions on scraps first. WonderTape is great stuff. I use it for zippers too. Doesn't gum up the needle and dissolves in water when you launder the finished garment.
ReplyDeleteOoh, that's an interesting suggestion! Thing is, I find the wondertape does gum up my needles something awful (at least on my new machine, when I use it to sew zips) - so I'm not sure this will work for me, but it's a great idea!
DeleteI wonder if you had a bad batch. The stuff should have an expiry date on it cause it does not age well. I had one batch that seemed gooey when I opened it and yet it had very little stick. I took it back and the store agreed it was wrong and exchanged it. New stuff was fine.
DeleteIt's quite possible. The stuff I have is quite old. I'm going to buy some new.
Delete