Monday, May 21, 2012

A Little Diversion

I'm democratic in my love of the crafts - and somewhat schizophrenic, apparently, as I've decided I MUST KNIT SOMETHING NOW. I don't know what it is about the spring, but warm weather brings out my inner knitter. I think it's cuz you can do it in the back yard.

I tried to use some stash yarn, but I really didn't have enough to make a sweater. I thought I was open to making whatever I had enough yarn for, but in fact, I want a cardigan. Much perusal of Ravelry and Craftsy and Knitty and my own library proved this to me.

It's really too bad that I so strongly sense Andi's terrific Miette will not work on my shape:


This pretty cardigan is just what I'm looking for - a light jacket for air conditioned surroundings and on summer evenings. I realize, especially having followed Gail's AWESOME knit along (really, go over there right now), that I can alter the pattern to suit my shape needs. But, in truth, I still don't think it's going to work on my frame as well as this one:

City Cardigan by Val Love


To make this, I have purchased a navy blue light worsted wool (the ubiquitous Cascade 220 Superwash) and that I may forgo the sleeve buttons (which are a bit much, IMO). Of course, I'm about 80 yards short, theoretically - the yarn store didn't have another skein. But I'll order it from Romni and, if I can't get the same dye lot, I'll make the rib in either a contrast colour (same yarn) or another lot of navy - as long as it doesn't look obviously different. I figure I can always shorten the sleeves or adjust the shawl neck to save on yarn in a worst case scenario.

Why is it always on the Monday of a long weekend that I figure these things out, when every store is closed and I can't find out about my extra skein options till tomorrow??

This cardigan provides optional short row shaping at the shoulder and neck, to refine its overall fit. A shawl neck will highlight my chest without calling too much attention to it, and the cinched rib which begins just at the under bust will draw the eye to my narrowest feature. That's the theory, anyhow.

As is the way with all knitting, I spent a bomb of time last night taking every measurement I have, with the intention of adjusting the pattern to suit my exact dimensions.

Alas, my knitting skills are not as developed as my fitting skills and the combination of an open front (vs. pull over style), ribbing and a "faux seed stitch" repeat (that works flat and then in the round) means that I am not ready to tackle a wholesale redraft of this to suit my size. Stitch numbers at numerous key junctures require precision and the ability to apply my math to 4 and 5 stitch repeats. If I make a mistake with my numbers in any of a zillion places, the end result could be a disaster. I'm not in the mood for that possibility.

As a result, I'm going to make the small - a 35" bust. (I've determined the negative ease in my fabric and I believe it will provide 2 inches, not to mention that the style will allow for a bit of extra give in the way the Miette will not, as the City cardi is open over the full bust. As my full bust appears to be 37" every time I remeasure, I'm hopeful this is going to work.) I will add to the length (it's top down, so I can do this fairly easily) in the event that I need more to cover the bust so that the ribbing and buttons begin below my full bust, for optimal fit without adjusting every measurement.

If anyone sees a flaw in this logic - pls. chime in!

In the meanwhile, lets chat: Have you made either of these sweaters (Miette or City)? If yes, what are your thoughts about the process and the finished result? How do you address ease when knitting?

23 comments:

  1. I've made the Miette, which I love. The process was good, and if I recall (made it last summer), I only had to head to a yarn shop once for an instruction that truly confused me (and my experienced knitter mom). Fit-wise, I'm really a beginning knitter (advanced beginner?) who is not nearly as methodical as you, so I just knit away. The result was a cardi that fits ok, but not great. Hmmm, I did a blog post about it this spring. I'll find that link for you later if you want it.

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    1. Elle: I've got to go find that post. I'm sure I read it, but who can remember 2 weeks ago, much less last year!

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  2. I think this plan sounds good. Because the sweater doesn't actually have to close over your full bust, it likely won't matter even if it's a smidge smaller than intended in that area - I'd wager it's like a sewing pattern - picking the smaller size will better suit the narrowness of your frame.

    Of course, this is only speculation on my part - but I have to admit that I've never paid a terrible amount of attention to fitting my knits and so far I've been pleased with the fit of all three sweaters I've made. And I'm notoriously picky. Maybe that's good luck, but I think also think hand knitted items are fairly forgiving, fit-wise.

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    1. Thanks K. That's what I'm hoping, though when you read my emails which address gauge, I hope you'll still agree. And I also find knitted garments very forgiving on the fit front. Whenever I make something that should fit, it's always too big. I guess I really do like negative ease in hand knitted tops.

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    2. I suppose, to be fair, all of the sweaters I've made have been fairly loose-fitting cardigans - but the shoulder width has worked in all of them. I've been planning a much more fitted sweater (with added short-row bust shaping) and I'll admit I'm stalling on it because I'm intimidated by it!

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    3. I've done it so, if you want to talk about it, I'd be happy to. Of course, I'll have to go back and remember! BTW, that's one of the things that the Craftsy course on Fitting your Knits tackles very well.

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  3. I look forward to seeing your progress on this! I have a feeling it will be fairly quick ;)

    I haven't knitted in ages. I usually do so when watching TV but haven't in a while. Need to get back into it as I do enjoy it (although not democratically, as I prefer sewing:)

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    1. Me too Suzy! Much as you have experienced the expert knitting advice of Katy, now so am I. I'm hoping she helps me to take the guess work out of things!

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    2. I'm sure she will. She's fantastic and explains knitting related stuff so well :)

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  4. Oh, that is a fabulous cardigan!! Your fitting advice sounds good, and I may copy you unabashedly. Once I get over my dislike of knitting when it is warm. All knitting seems to cease around here from May to September.

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    1. Please do! I copy others routinely :-) Just try to knit something light, and in morning or eve. Mid aft outside knitting is crazy.

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  5. Oh, that's a really nice pattern! I'm sure you'll get it fitting nicely. I am definitely learning about fitting my Miette, I am unsure if the fit will really be perfect, but I have to cut myself some slack as a first project!
    Looking forward to seeing your progress :)

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    1. Thanks J! Your Miette is looking beautiful. Can't believe it's your first project. I would just try to get into the swing of things, considering fit, but not getting too stressed about anything. You have many projects ahead of you.

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  6. The City is lovely - it will be awesome in navy! I had my eye on Miette too, until I saw Agatha (Lladybird finished one recently) and I hope to make that one day. A quick look at my Ravelry queue indicates that will be around 2075.
    I love knitting, but I hardly ever wear the things I knit! I am working on being more practical with my choices, in fact I'm considering unravelling and reknitting lots.
    As for sizing, knit and hope is my current strategy. It can be expensive to source the exact yarn here, and I've learnt from experience that many knitwear designers rely on the stretch for a good fit, and I usually end up changing the armhole and sleeve head to my preferred shape, using scientific methods such as guesstimation, positivity, and luck!
    Oh, and I am a short row/bust dart convert - my current knit project has those and now everything in the future will have too!

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    1. Thanks! I love the Agatha sweater too! I too am trying to be more practical with the knitting. What's something I'm always reaching for? A cropped cardigan in a neutral colour that fits well!

      I love your science! Especially since I'm following it this go around (even having done all the math, I'm not staking my abilities on it!)

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  7. Our processes are so very different -- you make me feel lazy (and exhausted, quite frankly). I tend to jump in and knit; if it doesn't fit, I end up giving it away. . . . ;-)

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    1. Ha! And your solution is awesome. Still gives you the opportunity to knit, and a chance to gift someone something she'll love!

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  8. I recently made Miette, with a lot of modifications. A great resource is Ysolda Teague's "Little Red in the City." She says most knitting patterns are written for a B cup and gives advice on how to do short-row and other shaping for those of us who need more room. For Miette, I wanted 2" negative ease at the bust, but that would still have been too large around the neck/upper chest. I started the neck on a smaller size (34), did increases starting at row 32 to accommodate a full bust which actually moved me to the next larger size (36), did a few extra rows for length over the bust, and moved the bust shaping down by an inch. I wrote myself extensive notes so I could do it again another time. I will send you my notes via email if you ever want to make it!

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    1. What a generous offer! I may well take you up on that. I love short rows (though I can't really put them into this garment given the short row shaping in the shoulders and collar - my level of experience is not great enough to add another section of short rowing when I have no idea what impact it will have on the other short rows. Or what impact they'll have on the fit of the garment. Too many unknowns in this project at this time. Of course, I may learn lots and decide to make it again. (Here's hoping this version looks good though.)

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  9. Oh the City Cardigan just looks like you. I think you'd get a lot of wear out of it myself.

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  10. I really hope it turns out to be a staple!

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  11. That City Cardigan is totally you! I like the sleeve buttons though - it makes it look like one of the Phildar patterns I love :-)

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    1. Thanks G! I should convince you to do a KAL on this one :-)

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