Sunday, May 13, 2012

Fit is Everything

Oooh, polarizing title, yes?

Now, before you skim this for any potential photos, before you decide how minimally this concept interests you, before you determine that - as a non-sewist - this post is relatively meaningless to you - wait!

Don't wander off. Pretend we're at a dinner party. We've found the last two good seats on the comfortable couch. You have a fresh drink. It's boozy. You're eating something wrapped in bacon. You compliment me on my outfit - it's awesome, by the way - whereupon I launch into an impassioned discussion about how I made it / had it made / bought it and the fit is perfect. One thing leads to another and, before you know it, we're having a full on conversation about the concept of fit. It's not scary. It's not boring. In fact, on the basis of that lovely drink that's making your toes tingle (and my fun personality, natch), it's really rather compelling.

My portion of that conversation goes something like this:

I've always intuited the importance of fit. I grew up in a time when textiles weren't what they are today. Everything wasn't comprised of 3% spandex. In fact, nothing was. I had a very curvy body from a very young age and finding clothes that looked good was not easy. Of course, I had youth on my side. I was also pretty creative. I wore vintage cashmere sweaters before they were back in style. I knew that expensive clothes (which I had occasional access to) were more likely to fit.

I won't even go into the nightmare that was bra shopping. That was a special kind of torture. Back then, slim people were assumed to be modestly endowed (and people walked 5 miles to work in the snow). The whole thing was demoralizing writ large.

Eventually fabrics caught up with modern bodies and British women convinced British manufacturers that boobs can get much larger than originally imagined (and still not be all that large) and can exist on rather small frames. Times are good!

Wear a well-fitted bra, have great posture, exercise to tone your body in a way that is right for your shape and wear the right outer layer and everything's great. Right?

Yeah, that's the theory. But most of the time RTW fits marginally. Even if your shape is the shape that your preferred brand caters to, the likelihood that everything is going to click is slim. Note to reader: If I seem to be implying that the average body needs tailored clothing to fit perfectly, that is what I'm getting at. If you think that means, as you aren't a rich celebrity or child of a couturier, I'm suggesting that you need to be able to sew or alter your own clothing in order to wear perfectly fitting clothes if your body deviates even slightly from a straight line anywhere, hate to say it peeps, but that's kind of my perspective right now, and it's kind of a bitch. Of course, excellent shoppers find excellent fit on a regular basis... Who am I to judge for all?

(Ed. note: I suppose this is where I might lose the non-sewist readers.

OK, for those of you who are still here...)

I am taking this online course by tailor / author, Sarah Veblen, who's written this terrific book, which I learned about from a new friend of mine, S, (with whom I talk about sewing on a daily basis at this point and with whom I fit clothing). She's taking the course with me and we're about to start on our test garments.

Yes, we make test garments. Zillions of them, by all accounts as S has been working on a mythical pair of pants since 2009 (in truth, she had a baby in 2010 so she's been occupied) and we've just finished fitting my suit jacket from hell.

What I'm starting to realize, in this process (or series of fitting experiences), is that (as S says), the flat pattern alteration is a useful but blunt instrument. I started this post with the intention of assuring new sewists and any other sewists who don't much consider fit (some of these peeps are incredibly advanced at sewing technique) that perfect fit - or at least excellent fit - is attainable. Why? Well, I begin my own fitting process with the assumption that perfect fit will be the end result. Experts will tell you that it really doesn't matter what size you are (except in as much as that dictates the pattern size you construct), it matters what shape you are and how your eyes and hands adapt fabric to that shape.

How the volume of your body sits is totally unique to you and the best way to address this (in the opinion of certain experts - and I agree) is by draping practice garments over your own body, making specific adjustments - one at a time so as not to confuse things, reflecting those adjustments on the paper pattern and then starting the whole thing (with focus on a different area) over again. Eventually, every fit challenge is addressed and the end result is very pleasing.

Here's where I suggest you focus on the very pleasing end result rather than the process of getting there.

Draping sounds like a scary idea. It sounds like something people write 200 dollar books about (they do) and that other people go to fancy fashion schools to learn (they do). In my opinion - and I say this as someone with no formal training and pretty marginal spatial reasoning skills - it's really no more scary than doing anything else that making a nice garment entails. Admittedly, you can sew without knowing a thing about fitting and fit without the ability to sew. Why not just go whole hog and figure them both out?

I'm going to spend the next few posts discussing this in more detail. I promise not to be scary or boring about it. But if I am, do me a favour and let me know.

Let's get the party started with some questions: If you don't sew, how important is fit to you? Are you frustrated by fit of RTW? And for sewists: How important is fitting in your sewing process? Are you a draper or a flat pattern modifier? Do you do a combo of both methods? What are the obstacles, as you see them, to good fit? Can you share any good fitting resources, drape method or otherwise?

I'm so interested to hear what you think...

49 comments:

  1. Getting a "perfect" fit isn't important me, but I do like getting a better fit from my home sewn clothes than I can get from buying them. My hip to waist ratio isn't huge, but I have often found that if I buy a skirt to fit my waist then it's too small in the hips, and if I buy it to fit my waist then it looks a size too big in the hips. Sewing my own means I can tweak the pattern so that it fits both my hips and waist.

    I have bought a few fitting books, but have found that I tend to ignore them in favour of patterns that I hope will fit me with just a few tiny tweaks.

    I love the idea of having a dozen or so perfectly fitted patterns so that I could sew a perfect wardrobe, but have discovered that I really don't have the patience. I do have a wardrobe full of home sewn garments that I love so I guess fit isn't as important to me as I thought it would be when I started sewing.

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    1. Fascinating comment! When first I started sewing (not so long ago), I was so overwhelmed by learning all the basics - how to work my machine, how to read a pattern etc. - that I didn't feel capable of adding fit into the mix. I'm starting to think, though, that in some ways it's not nearly as difficult as first I imagined. Maybe I'll be able to articulate that better as this post series continues.

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    2. I've just realised that my original comment may have been misleading. When I very, very first started sewing (about six years ago) I didn't even know that an online sewing community existed so I just sewed patterns based on my measurements and enjoyed wearing clothes I had made myself. I then realised that those clothes didn't fit all that well and, around that time, found the online sewing community (mainly patternreview at that time). I then got overwhelmed by all the information about fitting, so I blocked most of it out and carried on sewing, but maybe tweaking a bit more.

      Six years on I sometimes think I should probably know more about fit than I do - I wear a C/D cup and still haven't learnt to do an FBA - I just pick patterns that don't need one (or have it built into the pattern).

      The best thing I ever did was to buy my second sewing machine because it would happily sew jersey (not so much with my first machine). I like jersey tops (so I can ignore the FBA problem) and fitted skirts (easy-peasy after six years).

      I'm still struggling with dresses, but honestly don't care enough to make more than two muslins, and possibly never will. I am looking forward to your posts on this issue though - I might even start paying more attention to fit :)

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    3. I sewed with jersey for most of the first 2 years because, I too can use the patterns more or less out of the envelope (need to refine length or SAs but not to do and FBA). I think that, once you work out a few fit issues on a few basic patterns (which can be painful, though maybe less than you imagine) you'll be able to apply some of that learning to new patterns, and the number of muslins required may decrease. That's what I tell myself :-)

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  2. K - I think you know my perspective on this. Fit is everything - that's why clothes I've sewn are so much more comfortable than RTW. I use Flat Pattern Basic Blocks (or Slopers) - and so far that has been amazing. They are somewhat difficult to adapt to commercial patterns.
    I did take an online partial draping class from an expert but guess what? I couldn't figure it out. So, in the future - I want to do more advanced pattern design - and, classes on draping. . . Great post - to me FIT is everything -it is the entire reason I sew. . .

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    1. Oh, I do! I think draping may be the kind of thing you need help with - esp. if you don't have a dress form that perfectly matches your dimensions. Still slowly figuring things out.

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    2. Yes, I have a size 12 PGM dress form - I keep thinking I'll fit it to my measurements based on my bodice block - but keep putting it off!

      Yes, I definitely would love to do some draping. My favorite RTW dresses are draped. .. .

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  3. To me, fit is essential. Age and gravity have changed my fitting issues. I am now working through some of them but I wish I could still pop that little pattern out of the envelope, sew it up, and wear it the next day!

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    1. Gravity is working on me too :-) Since I've had fit issues since the get go, though, maybe it's easier for me to accept that sewing from the envelope is a rare occurrence.

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  4. I'm one of the lucky few who need minimal tweaking.. most patterns will fit me quite well, and I find that the ridiculous waist measurements are very rarely true (35 hip/26 waist... really?!?!?!). I've plowed on for most of the patterns I had with good results - until I made a dress that had loooads of extra fabric in the back.

    I still haven't made a proper muslin (working on my first one!), but I'm more careful with fit now - with the last few things I made I was very careful to measure the pattern to know what to expect. The (two) skirts have turned out quite well.

    It's been a year since I started sewing, and I am becoming more and more aware of this issue. I recently learnt to recognize when something doesn't look quite right, which is a good first step.

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    1. That's a great first step and muslins, while at first they seem tedious (well, they are in a way) can be so illuminating. You're like your own puzzle!

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  5. Fit is the next thing I am going to be focusing on in my sewing, unfortunately I am in the process of joining a gym, working out and losing weight, so fitting issues will be constantly changing for the next year or so. If I am incredibly lucky, by the end of the process I will have a body that is easy to fit. If not, I will be ready for it.

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    1. Elle: I wonder if anyone's body is "easy to fit". Of course, who knows how it will go - and I hope you become the easiest person to fit in the land! - but the likelihood is that your proportions will remain consistent (though in a smaller way). And bones don't get smaller. So I wonder how you're going to find that. Gotta keep me posted!

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  6. Fit is probably one of the reasons that I sew clothes (as well as enjoying the process), but is tricky. It's definitely the reason I don't buy RTW stuff - I've become super picky with things having to fit or I won't buy them. Fit is a tricky one though, and while i'm slowly getting better it's no where near perfect yet. It's so hard with how inconsistent pattrns can be though. which is leading me more towards learning to draft and making patterns from my own block (which I now have for a bodice block) rather than worrying about fit issues with every single pattern.

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    1. It's gotten horrible! I can't look at anything RTW without criticizing it terribly! At the end of my fit class, I hope to have a bodice block - well, a side darted bodice block.

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  7. Oh fit, fit, fit. It is super important to me being a perfectionist, and knowing I want to flatter my body (I like close-fitting clothes), which means you need a good fit!

    I have definitely been overwhelmed quite a lot as a beginner, at the thought of somehow figuring out what this and that wrinkle means, and knowing how to alter the pattern etc. It all seem so hard and complicated!

    But I'll keep on trying. I hope to get there one day! I see many muslins in my future...

    And yes, one of the reasons I am determined to sew is that RTW fits horribly :) Also it seems like to avoid fitting issues, most RTW is stretchy and baggy-styled. Yuck, not my style at all.

    Don't worry, this topic isn't boring! :)

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    1. As a beginner, it's so hard not to become overwhelmed. Sewing is like a language you have to learn. At first, it's like you're trying to communicate but you don't know the words or the syntax. It's beguiling! I've decided to try to focus on how some of the words are actually just like others I already know - to take an analogy way to far :-)

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  8. The fit of RTW was one of the reasons I started sewing and the issues with fitting patterns was a major reason to start taking pattern making lessons.
    I've now been drafting my own patterns for a few years and although not everything is perfect, I get fairly close a lot of the time. Personal slopers are great. Still, you have to try things on and adjust from there. When I'm making something for myself, I usually sort of know how to get the intende fit. Drafting for someone else can be a different matter because I'm not used to the idiosyncracies of that person's body (which is why I mentioned mastering pattern making is very hard to do...).
    Draping test garments on the body is a very good way to fit garments, but it requires help. It's not something a seamstress, no matter what her skill level, can really do on her own.
    I wish you the best of luck tackling your fitting issues.

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    1. You are an excellent drafter - that's evident, but I hear you on having to learn the skill of grading and designing for other bodies. And draping does require help, which is why I'm so grateful for my new fitting friend. I do know that every sloper is just a starting off point. However, it's starting off closer to the end point than the paper pattern! :-)

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  9. Thanks, great post!

    what course are you doing, what pattern? Can I "sew along" you?

    Fit is (very) important to me, taking my first steps altering commercial patterns. However I also pay attention to the difference between "fitting" and "flattering". The best fitting skinny jeans won't fatter my curvy behind, while the same fit with wider leg opening will look better. the opposite is also true, the most jean-fitting instructions teach how to eliminate under-seat bags, while I find that in the right context they give a proper "worn-in" look.

    I agree with Rachel, I would like to learn how to implement previous fitting experience to new patterns.

    Not having a fitting friend (non of my friend sew) I will also like to learn how fit myself, or alter my dress form to mimic my body better.

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    1. Roni: Glad you like it! I don't know that the way this series is going will facilitate sewing along. As I'm taking a current class, taught by a teacher who's charging a fee, I do have to be mindful of sharing the concepts in a way that doesn't undermine her copyright. I do hope my info will be useful in a practical way though! And I do intend to talk somewhat more about transferring muslin alterations back onto original paper patterns.

      What Rachel talks about - a sloper - is sort of what I'm learning to fit in my current course - through Pattern Review online. It's the Fitted Bodice course taught by Sarah Veblen (I think the link is gone now cuz the course is half way through). She teaches many courses that would help with a) fit and b) the creation of a sloper. Note though, that slopers are just more refined prototypes than unaltered paper patterns. They still need to be used in conjunction with the design of the new pattern and, potentially, they must be tweaked extensively.

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  10. You're spot on! I am a novice in this game but it's quickly becoming apparent to me that fitting is so important and my old idea of just going for it is drifting away! I am of the opinion if I don't bother with the how the clothing fits, then I might as well buy my own clothes and take up something else!

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    1. I hear that! That's the opinion I'm coming to also!

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  11. I find that the more I learn about fit, the more it matters - although I have a modestly difficult shape, before I started sewing seriously I bought things with stretch and didn't think too much about it. At this point, though, I've all but given up on buying clothing, and draft most of my own patterns. Haven't ventured into draping yet, but so far I'm having much better results just working with my own blocks than I ever did with RTW or commercial patterns.

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    1. Lord love stretch! :-) Do you have a dress form shaped (almost) exactly like you? The draping may work well if you have one.

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    2. I don't have a dress form at the moment, but flat-pattern drafting has turned out to be a really good fit for my mathematical brain so I haven't been in a rush to try something else. That said, it does seem like draping is a better method for certain types of designs, so I'll probably give it a try at some point.

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  12. Some figures are suited to non fitted clothing. IMO the more curvy you are, the more fitting you need for clothing to flatter - that would be me! So personally, I agree, fitting is everything when sewing for myself, except that it is such a chore getting to the point where you have well fitting patterns or the knowledge to get there from a standard pattern without hours of work. I mostly use the blunt instrument flat pattern - great term ;), then make a toile, try things on, drape on my duct tape dummy, whatever takes my fancy. The dummy really changed my sewing by allowing me to drape many adjustments, so I found it a very worthwhile project.

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    1. So true! Didn't S completely capture it when she said "blunt instrument". That really resonates for me too.

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  13. At the moment I'm in the process of making some dresses for an old friend. She has a totally different body type from me so it's been a fun challenge to sew for her. When I told her I needed a complete set of measurements she blanched and almost back out of the project until I gently reminded her that (1) measurements are always taken silently and (2) measurements are necessary but irrelevent in the end because all that matters is fit (proportion too but good proportion doesn't happen unless there is good fit.) I have a muslin to send off to my friend today and then we'll do a Skype fitting session before I tackle the fashion fabric; I think she will really love this dress even as a muslin and I can't wait to see the look on her face when it FITS :)

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    1. My mother had the same reaction when I asked for her measurements! You know, as I have told her, you're walking around every day in the body you don't want to know the measurements of?! It's bizarre really. How is it that we can love ourselves as long as we don't ascribe a number to our shapes?? Can't wait to hear how your friend feels about the finished product!

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  14. I'm 6'1". I've only just started sewing but getting things to fit in a very basic way (i.e. length) is one of the main reasons I've started.

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    1. You raise such a good point! Height can be so tricky to work with - esp. as it influences proportions!

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  15. Since I have an unusually shaped body, I agree that fit is everything. When I am done altering my patterns, it often looks like a bomb went off right at the bust point. It's very difficult for me to buy clothes that fit properly.

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    1. Ha! And I find it interesting that you say you are unusually shaped. I wonder if everyone feels that way. I do! :-)

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  16. It's amazing to me how sewing has changed my view of fit---not only am I much more aware of my figure, I'm much, much more conscious of what "good fit" looks like. And being able to *do* something about it is the most liberating feeling (although it can also be exhausting...)

    I tend to go for flat-pattern alterations over draping. I like the drafting aspect, I guess---draping feels, hmm, squishy. Although if you have a body-double or someone to help with, I can see draping being more efficient. Especially for something involving, well, drape. Trying to draft a cowl-neck, for example, without draping it is a pain in the butt. Can't wait to hear what you do with this. :)

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    1. You do like the math of the flat pattern! But I suspect you would also love draping because you bring a very fluid and creative element to your sewing.

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  17. To be honest, I'm not sure where I sit with fit. I started sewing when young and most garments fit pretty well with minor adjustments. (It was the 70s and most things were A-line and forgiving.) As another commenter has said, gravity and time have taken it's toll. My problem is that on my own with a mirror and a muslin, I can only recognize the most obvious fitting issues. I can read all the books, but I need someone to lead me through the process to make me aware of how I can do better. I did minimal fitting on my Craftsy jacket. I think it fits pretty well, but not as good as yours. There is the peplum which is too "wingly" in the back. I didn't notice that at all on the muslin, only when I had the thing sewn up and lined, too late to change. I'm so jealous of the fact you have S. to work with on this. Please continue the fit posts.

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    1. Have you uploaded your jacket pics on Craftsy yet? Can't wait to see your end result!

      You raise a very good point about how hard it is to fit oneself. I owe a great debt of gratitude to S. And I totally understand your jealousy! :-)

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  18. Being a Tall "triangle" shape, I gave up shopping in departments stores years ago. Bought most of my overpriced (not so great fitting) clothes from Eddie Bauer and occasionally other retailers that offered clothes for tall people. I did appreciate that, by the way.

    Anyway, I got tired of returning mail order clothes and paying for the postage. Decided to learn to sew again. (I did some sewing when I was young.)

    Now I'm addicted!!!
    :-)

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    1. Tall triangle - I totally have a picture of that shape! (of course, I may be thinking of someone who looks totally different than you :-)) Addiction is a good way to describe my feelings about sewing too.

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  19. Sing it sister!
    Great post and I agree with you 100%. I now do both draping (on my custom dress form) and flat pattern adjustments. I measure and check and double-check before I sew. I do have a good wardrobe of TNT patterns now and it is WONDERFUL. I also realize that it's natural for any body to change subtly within a year or so, and once you have a good fit doesn't mean you are finished. Slight weight gains or losses, increased fitness and the effects of aging and gravity influence my figure. It is an ongoing lesson! I look forward to reading more of your posts on fitting!

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    1. Well, I know you are on board! You've been singing the praises of excellent fit for a long time! And my brain has been listening - even as it's tried to avoid all of the challenge involved in attaining good fit. But the siren's song is loud!

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  20. This is a fascinating subject and very interesting post to read! I consider getting a good fit important. It doesn't need to be super perfect! When I started sewing I just wanted to sew but now I do care about fitting. That is why even though I loathe doing muslins I will do them for practically everything I sew.
    I have a great draping book by Annette Duburg and Rixt van der Tol and the only thing stopping me from starting to attempt draping is a good sturdy dress form (mine is way to flimsy and full of gaps). I do want to take a short course on draping to learn the basics. Self learning very technical things (as I consider both draping and flat pattern making to be) is easier for me if I start off with good basics learned from a real expert.

    In terms of which method is better I think ideally they can complement each other. Depending on the garment you designing one or the other or combination of draping and flat pattern might be the right choice. They both have advantages and disadvantages

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    1. So true. I love starting by measuring a flat pattern. Well, I don't love it - but I appreciate it, if you know what I mean. Thank you for the draping book info. I have tried to order 2 of them and each time I found out that the (big box) online shops couldn't find them. I guess the right text is still waiting for me.

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  21. Oh... I wish I was at a dinner party talking about something I love, like fit! Seriously, I am with you - nearly every garment I own has either been altered (if RTW) or made by me. I don't have time to do it all myself so I have a great relationship with a seamstress. Even those who don't sew could benefit immensely from having a seamstress to hem/take in, let out! Fit is King! - No - QUEEN!

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  22. For me fit is the foundation of a great garment. It doesn't matter how beautifully it's sewn, or how spectacular the fabric, if it doesn't fit well then you're always going to feel that something is just a little off.

    Its the Holy Grail of sewing for me. I find that with each garment I sew I'm getting slowly closer to understanding how to fit myself. And I'm also working towards a set of basic patterns that fit me that will eventually become the basis for most things that I sew.

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    1. I completely agree. I don't wear the things that don't fit. I just don't feel good about them.

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  23. I wish I could be with you at the party :).

    This is such a great topic and I look forward to more posts. By the way, Martin used a painstaking draping method to modify his shirt patten. It took more than 20 iterations over several months -- closer to a year. The shirt he wore to our wedding is the latest revision but he's STILL NOT HAPPY! He continues to work out the imperfections. I think the pattern is great at this point. I want him to use the same method to make me one but hopefully with fewer iterations as I don't need all of the details (detachable collar & cuffs, french seams, the vents, etc.). I just want a shirt that looks nice. Anyway, I hope to learn more about draping working on the Susan version of his shirt.

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