Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Suiting Up

Ah, palettes, how I struggle with ye:

If you actually click on the image (and by some miracle it works) you will be able to see my latest project: Gretchen's Starlet Suit Jacket (which you can find on Craftsy here), part one of a skirt suit, pencil skirt, pattern TBD.

In case you can't (or can't be bothered to) click, it's a 6 week challenge, wherein I'll hand tailor, using the Craftsy course, the adorable 40s-style peplum jacket, and then make a pencil skirt to match (TBD).

What's the objective? Well, for starters, I finally want to tailor again (she says, like she has a lifetime of experience) after the very labour-intensive Lady Grey coat experience. And, as you all know, I've been wanting to make a suit.

Futhermore, I would like to construct two pieces that look as beautiful inside as out, and which function beautifully together.

Needless to say, I'm not going to cheap out on fabric. Let's say I'm going to spend out. I'm looking at a couple of fabrics, which are more easily visible below than in the croquis above:

I found these at the Wool House on Queen Street, a place where many tailors go to get their fabrics - or where savvy ladies go to get fabric to take to their tailors. A few of us actually buy them to sew with ourselves :-)

I had a lovely experience discussing the relative merits of crepes and cashmere blends and pure wool and textured wool and linings etc.

In the end I've settled on these two possibilities and, in truth, I suspect I'll be going with the darker fabric which (sadly) doesn't photo well here, but which is rich and deep and in no way navy (I swear). It just looks that way here. In fact, it's much more purple than anything, but I can't use that word cuz I hate it.

Both of these fabrics are Italian-made, textured, pure wool. There's slightly more drape in the lilac but the hand isn't quite as nice as that of the, um, aubergine. Let's call it aubergine - even though it's actually more pur___. Part of me is concerned to use such a relatively heavy weight wool (as both of these are). They're not coating, of course, but nor are they the slippery softness of cashmere suiting.

Note: Most of the cashmere suiting comes in "men's" colours aka boring for springtime fun, even if they are elegant. That's the crowd this store is catering to. If you observe the tech drawing of The Starlet Jacket, you'll see that it lends itself to a fabric of structure. The style is exaggerated: nipped in the waist but flared in the hips and a the slightest bit boxy in the shoulders. A super-drapey cashmere suiting isn't going to hold that shape as well as a more robust wool, IMO. And either of these fabrics will make awesome pencil skirts. They have so much natural structure that they'll hold everything in place beautifully - especially if I bone the waist area (hmmmm). Mind you, I'm sure cashmere (not pictured) would make an awesome finished product too. Lord knows, it won't add an ounce of bulk to one's silhouette.

I have the best jaquard lining in mind. It's red, charcoal, silver and grey (but the grey picks up the aubergine). I know it sounds hideous - and it's certainly contrasting. But utterly modern in a chic, French way.

Oh, it's so much fun to plan it all out. To feel the fabrics and the interfacing. To imagine the glorious finished product. Let's take a moment to revel in it, shall we?

Meanwhile, whatcha think??? Which swatch do you prefer? Do you think I should get the cashmere blend suiting - even if the colours aren't that fun (because, peeps, it's cashmere)? Cashmere fabric can make either a skirt, some culottes or a pair of pants to round out the suit.

27 comments:

  1. You'll find that the soft and deeply textured wool is a lot easier to work with than the usual smooth, lighter weight suiting fabrics. It hides a multitude of imperfections in the stitching. Your suit in aubergine will be lovely.

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    1. You're right. I'll let it slip that I bought the aubergine. More to come on that topic soon :-)

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  2. Oh, I definitely think you're right to pick the darker one. The minute you started describing the fabric it sounded like the superior choice. (I agree with your thought that heavier, textured fabrics would better suit Gertie's jacket.) Also, I think the colour is fairly well represented (at least on my screen) - it doesn't look navy, nor does it look purple. Aubergine is actually probably the word I would have chosen as well.

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    1. Hey K: I'm glad to know you think of it as aubergine!

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  3. This post made me smile as I refuse to use the p word either! It's aubergine, or plum, or anything but, cough, p......!
    For what it's worth I agree that the aubergine wool is a better choice. From the pictures it looks like a more structured weave which I think will add a little more body to the suit. And also, on my monitor at least, it looks very sumptuous.
    Of course, if you really wanted to spend out you could buy both! And then eat baked beans for a month! ;-)
    Can't wait to see this progress. I have a feeling it's going to be very beautiful.

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    1. I don't mean to be prejudiced against a whole colour, but I can't stand to say that word - and it puts me in mind of crayons :-) I will say that I ended up buying two linings for the aubergine fabric.

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  4. Why the hate for purple? Hmm. My husband's family are all mad for purple.

    I like the darker fabric, too. And you will look scrumptiously stunning in a tailored suit.

    Ah, fantasy. I think I'm doing much better on the fantasy front than the reality one these days...

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    1. It's a weakness of character. I'm kind of hateful of pastels too. I mean, not for others, of course. Just conceptually.

      Fantasy is the easier realm, yes?

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  5. I like the lilac fabric - for me! It's so springtime-like. But I think for your coloring, and to get the most out of the jacket in pairing it with what's already in your closet AND as an all-season garment, the aubergine is probably the better choice.

    I signed up for this course too, as I have never done any tailoring and wanted an introduction. But I don't see myself making this jacket. I've got my eye on a boxy '60s jacket with matching sheath dress . . .

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    1. There you are bucking the trend! I knew you'd like that one better. And, all things being equal, I too prefer it. But to wear head to toe - I'd end up looking like a confection.

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  6. I love the dark colour. I am a fan of all shades from lilac to plum, but I think you'll get more versatility from the darker colour.

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  7. What's with all the purple hate?? It's my favorite color (and I consider lilac a shade of purple, not a separate color). But yeah, I'd describe your swatch as aubergine and I honestly think it has more three-season potential. Because lilac really only works for spring and summer and if you're going to do something as labor-intensive as a suit, you want to wear it as long as possible. Right?

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    1. OK, I'm sorry, I'm sorry! Purple is good!

      The lilac will really only work for spring and summer - and, to be honest, that lilac is too heavy for mid-summer. The three seasons I'll get from the aubergine are fall, winter and spring.

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  8. I might choose the cashmere, because it could traverse more seasons than the wool, especially if you plan to wear it indoors most of the time. However, I love the wool you are thinking of using, too. The lining sounds great, not hideous. I can't wait to see how this one goes.

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    1. I'm definitely going to buy cashmere for my next suit. It will work for fall, no doubt!

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  9. Get both! They are both great and that way you can decided which one to use for this project in the calm of your own home with a view at the rest of your wardrobe. Whichever one you don’t use for the Gertie suit you can save for a fabulous fall outfit.

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    1. Andrea: You are some kind of enabler! I got the aubergine - but I did get 2 different linings - so I can choose which one I want on the fly :-)

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  10. I love purple! Go for it. Excited you're working on a peplum piece.

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    1. I really hope it works out well. Either way, no doubt you're going to hear about it.

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  11. Pretty fabric, that jacket is going to be gorgeous!! I want to splash out on a nice wool but made a sort of promise to myself that I would use as much of my stash as possible and I do have a wool blend in there. Also, it will be my first time at proper hand tailoring so might not be wise to spend a fortune on fabric.

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    1. Thank you! I totally support going through your stash before buying new. I don't have anything that would work for this - so I had an excuse :-)

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  12. I think the aubergine/purple is divine, and the lining sounds fabulous. Not hideous in the least... I can't totally see it all coming together!

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    1. I actually got another lining as well as the paisley jacquard. The second option is cerise. Talk about a bold combo :-)

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  13. Looks great. I like the darker fabric too. You are fearless in your sewing challenges! I can't wait to see your pencil skirt as well. I'm working on a pencil skirt and I've had great fun doing a sample for lining the vent and seeing how it works.

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    1. Thanks! You know, I suspect I'm not going to line the skirt (gasp!) I was thinking of binding the seams (ha - not likely now after the dress fiasco) but I prefer to wear slips. I'll have to see. And I can't wait for a post on your finished skirt.

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  14. OH! wow! i loved your work! you are quite creative!

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