Suiting Up

Ah, palettes, how I struggle with ye:

If you actually click on the image (and by some miracle it works) you will be able to see my latest project: Gretchen's Starlet Suit Jacket (which you can find on Craftsy here), part one of a skirt suit, pencil skirt, pattern TBD.

In case you can't (or can't be bothered to) click, it's a 6 week challenge, wherein I'll hand tailor, using the Craftsy course, the adorable 40s-style peplum jacket, and then make a pencil skirt to match (TBD).

What's the objective? Well, for starters, I finally want to tailor again (she says, like she has a lifetime of experience) after the very labour-intensive Lady Grey coat experience. And, as you all know, I've been wanting to make a suit.

Futhermore, I would like to construct two pieces that look as beautiful inside as out, and which function beautifully together.

Needless to say, I'm not going to cheap out on fabric. Let's say I'm going to spend out. I'm looking at a couple of fabrics, which are more easily visible below than in the croquis above:

I found these at the Wool House on Queen Street, a place where many tailors go to get their fabrics - or where savvy ladies go to get fabric to take to their tailors. A few of us actually buy them to sew with ourselves :-)

I had a lovely experience discussing the relative merits of crepes and cashmere blends and pure wool and textured wool and linings etc.

In the end I've settled on these two possibilities and, in truth, I suspect I'll be going with the darker fabric which (sadly) doesn't photo well here, but which is rich and deep and in no way navy (I swear). It just looks that way here. In fact, it's much more purple than anything, but I can't use that word cuz I hate it.

Both of these fabrics are Italian-made, textured, pure wool. There's slightly more drape in the lilac but the hand isn't quite as nice as that of the, um, aubergine. Let's call it aubergine - even though it's actually more pur___. Part of me is concerned to use such a relatively heavy weight wool (as both of these are). They're not coating, of course, but nor are they the slippery softness of cashmere suiting.

Note: Most of the cashmere suiting comes in "men's" colours aka boring for springtime fun, even if they are elegant. That's the crowd this store is catering to. If you observe the tech drawing of The Starlet Jacket, you'll see that it lends itself to a fabric of structure. The style is exaggerated: nipped in the waist but flared in the hips and a the slightest bit boxy in the shoulders. A super-drapey cashmere suiting isn't going to hold that shape as well as a more robust wool, IMO. And either of these fabrics will make awesome pencil skirts. They have so much natural structure that they'll hold everything in place beautifully - especially if I bone the waist area (hmmmm). Mind you, I'm sure cashmere (not pictured) would make an awesome finished product too. Lord knows, it won't add an ounce of bulk to one's silhouette.

I have the best jaquard lining in mind. It's red, charcoal, silver and grey (but the grey picks up the aubergine). I know it sounds hideous - and it's certainly contrasting. But utterly modern in a chic, French way.

Oh, it's so much fun to plan it all out. To feel the fabrics and the interfacing. To imagine the glorious finished product. Let's take a moment to revel in it, shall we?

Meanwhile, whatcha think??? Which swatch do you prefer? Do you think I should get the cashmere blend suiting - even if the colours aren't that fun (because, peeps, it's cashmere)? Cashmere fabric can make either a skirt, some culottes or a pair of pants to round out the suit.