I have learned a lot in making the Pendrell blouse muslin (shell only) - and hopefully this may inform your experience if you haven't yet begun to make it.
First off, I spoke with Tasia about choosing the size that would work best on me. I thought, given bust measurement, the 12 might be in order. However, I opted to go with the 10, after consultation, the idea being that I could do a full bust adjustment if necessary, and the shoulder/upper bust dimensions would likely be better.
Imagine my surprise when the size 10 muslin fit well in the bust and shoulders but was huge everywhere else. For some reason, maybe because Tasia is so petite, I supposed that this pattern would fit small. My shape is an hourglass, the pattern is designed for a pear. It struck me that the chest would be tight and the hips, perhaps, too loose but easily gradable.
I'm glad I went with the 10 a) because it fit in the chest and I do loathe the idea of the FBA - it's so unknowable how it will translate in the finished garment, IMO... and b) because it allowed me to practice some other (strangely) less objectionable - if much more time consuming - alterations. In truth, it would have been easier to cut an 8 and (potentially, though not certainly) do an FBA.
Here are the pieces that comprise the shell of the top - in their original pattern dimensions:
On me, the waist and hips were swimming. This pattern is designed for a true pear with a LONG waist. First off I had to decide where I'd subtract the excess from. Tasia has a great post about doing this (you think I would have reread it before embarking on my experiment), but I just went with my intuition. I decided that I like where the princess seam lies, particularly at the full bust. So I didn't want to screw with those 2 seams. However, the largest amount of extra fabric was in the waist down to the hips and a bit at the back side seam. I opted to remove a total of 2.5 inches over 4 seams - those that connect the back side to the back panel and those that connect at the waist seam.
These photos show the graded new seam lines on 3 of the 4 pieces (look on the right - sorry the lines are light...)
But from where to remove? Again, I didn't want to screw with bust ease, so I chose to grade from the middle waist
I prefer to sew with 1/2 inch seam allowances - which gives me enough to finish edges with a narrow serge, but which doesn't leave a lot of seam fabric inside the garment. I believe, with the rescaled dimensions of the pattern, I'll be alright.
Here are the pieces with the excess width removed:
Alas, then I had to address the length of this top. No joke, and I would have taken a photo if Scott had been around - it was practically a tunic on me. Seriously, I considered adding 3 inches and calling it a dress. Now, we know, I am a fairly short person. And I have a fairly short waist. But this really blew me away. I had to remove 4 inches of fabric - again, I did this below the upper waist on the pattern - and that got rid of the fabric pool at my back waist. The top is still hip-length, but I could make it, easily, with 1/2 a yard of fabric less than the pattern calls for, just in the length I've lopped off.
I'm curious to know if anyone else who's making this has a similar shape to mine. If yes, I'd love to hear about any alterations you have made.