Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Slow and Steady

I'm sure not feeling like a hare right now, but I am making progress on the coat.

To wit, here are the back panels (4) princess-seamed together:


(Maybe someday I'll sew in a colour other than navy and you'll be able to make out the tailoring details in a photo...)

And meet the fruits of my Sunday labour, pad-stitching (aka shaping) the lapel collar via painstaking diagonal hand sewing. Those two lapels took more than 8 hours. Scarily, I still have the collar to work on.


That piece of diagonal taping at the lower edge of the chevrons is twill, cross-stitched to the underside of the fashion fabric. It demarcates the roll line of the lapel. Pad stitching is a miraculous couture method which gives body to the lapel it so that it lies flat (but with shape) against the chest, in the finished garment.

This project is truly insane. I know I've said it before, but I don't see how I'll ever buy a tailored garment again. If I can afford it, I'll feel like I've exploited someone. And, natch, the alternative is a garment priced well out of my budget. I reckon, by the time all is said and done, I will have put 100 hours into this thing.

Tonight I came home from work and put another 2 hours in. I got the coat shell (no sleeves) together - including pockets, which look great. This shot (sorry, flash still out) gives you a fuzzy idea of where I'm at.

This shit is hardcore.

12 comments:

  1. Blimey it is and you are hard core! Brilliant stuff xx

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  2. Hard core indeed. You are really-really good. And navy is so very chic. No need to switch colours.

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  3. Holy cow. That's alotta handstitchin'. You have soooo much more patience that me! It looks beautiful though and the finished product is gonna be smashing!

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  4. Wow! I definitely commend your efforts to tailor your coat "old-school style". As you know, nowadays people cheat with interfacing. But there's nothing like a traditionally tailored coat. You inspire me to make one soon. It's looking good--can't wait to see more:)

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  5. I think it is worth the 100 hours of your time to make such a beautiful coat. The pad stitching does indeed seem miraculous.

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  6. YOU are hardcore! how in the world do you find the time?! you are tenacious and dedicated, indeed!

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  7. 8 hours?!?! I am never sewing outerwear! Yours looks great so far. I love navy, I don't think it can be overdone.

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  8. It certainly is, as are YOU! What constitution you have to take on projects as wonderful and detailed and labor-intensive as these.

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  9. K-line: You are seriously making me reconsider going the all-handstitch way. I need this coat before winter, dude! But it looks like you're practically done! And on the positive side, this big project has made me discover your blog.

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  10. It's looking great so far! I'm excited to try my hand at tailoring, pad-stitching, the whole deal! You'll have such an amazing coat when it's all finished, I hope it feels worthwhile when it's done!

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  11. Thanks Kate!

    Bel: That's what I tell myself now :-)

    Heather: I do not think that's true. You are the original bra pioneer!

    Victoria: You can rack up your 100 hours in a month easy when you hand tailor a coat :-)

    fashion herald: I think I'm insane...

    Susan: Thank you for the vote of confidence. Pad stitching is like magic. Except not easy :-)

    J: I ignore everyone. Sad but true.

    Sewn: You must give it a try. I sense that you will enjoy it.

    E: I think it's more like mental defect :-) but when I'm a famous rock star designer, I'll be able to say I toiled!!

    ejvc: Oh, I hear you. It does take FOREVAH! I have to see where you're at on the Flickr site. I'm sure your coat is going to be beautiful.

    Tasia: Oh, so do I! Can you imagine if I don't like it?? :-) I will like it. I will like it. It will be beautiful. :-)

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