First, though, I'm going to disclaim to high heaven because, while it certainly looks like a bra, it sure as hell doesn't fit. Again.
This is the third time, in case you're counting.
In fact, I'm gonna show these photos, just to prove to you I'm not lying about having taken up lingerie-making.
It doesn't fit because, for the third time it's too small. You might be thinking: Kristin, you've been wearing bras for 25 years, what up with not being able to do a pattern in the correct size. Um, don't you take measurements before starting each project??
The answer is a resounding YES. First time I worked with a 2 piece cup (the one above has 3 pieces, which you can see in the bottom photo). That one was too snug, because the cup configuration wasn't generous, I thought. The second time, I made a pattern from a pre-existing bra I own. Yeah, it was a disaster 6 different ways. Seam allowances, they are a nasy to figure out on a freakin' bra. So that one was too small for its own reasons.
This time though, this time I think I may have actually figured out what the hell is going on (please). I'm using a fabric called duoplex. It provides excellent support because it does not stretch at all. Hmmm. Turns out all but a couple of my RTW bras have, wait for it, stretch in the cups?! So I've been making bras with utterly no give room (or ease). Stands to reason that I'm going to have to go up in cup size. But how much, I really have no idea. And man, experimenting is a bitch!
Here's what I learned from this experience (recording this as much for me as you):
- I really like the pattern I'm working with. (It's European.)
- I think I need to make the back a bit bigger, though not a full 2 inches.
- I think I'm going to go up one or even 2 cup sizes. I've got to remember to grade the band so that the openings for the cups are in the larger size while the band width stays at a 70 - or maybe I'll grade it to a 72). That's cms.
- The strap method I used this time worked really well.
- I have to remember, if I'm going to use picot on the neck edging, to use the thread colour of the background, not the picot.
- I can reuse: the bow, the strapping/clasps, hooks/eyes. That'll save me some time...