Two Socks, One Week - Fine Finished Objets!

Let's celebrate the hideousness of this eternal (and I do mean ETERNAL) winter with a long overdue look at some beautiful socks! Lord knows, we need them...

(To all my KAL co-participants, apologies for the delay in posting this. I've been on my own planet lately and it somehow slipped my mind?! I also realize that some of you are still working on your socks, per recent email exchanges, so keep on and let me know when it's time to show off your finished wares.)

Enjoy the gorgeousness and - if you haven't sent me your photos or linked me to your blog as yet, please do and I'll add your pics to these.

Chris turns hot pink into a perfect new neutral...

Andrea's socks - made for her very lucky brother!

Cheryl's socks (almost there in time to ring in the New Year - now that's the way to spend your hols!)

Clio's socks - made for her very lucky self! That's Tosh yarn...

Joanne decided to bring on the Easter colours! (Very smart, IMO.)

And Barb used this incredible self-striping yarn to make her socks. I do love the muted colours. Very Icelandic!

May I suggest that you go out today and purchase some of the nicest sock yarn you can get your hands on. Then sit down, with a lovely drink and some yummy snacks and let your needles take you away.

Here's a look back on how I felt last year at this time (note: it involves a fantasy and not being anywhere near freakin' Canada).

A Little Bit More About Socks...

Thanks to everyone who's been sending photos of their finished socks (or posting them on their blogs). I'm thrilled by all of your beautiful efforts! I do intend to do a follow up post with pics, closer to the end of the month, when more folks have had a chance to finish the Two Socks, One Week KAL (see the sidebar if you'd like a pattern and road map for making a simple pair of socks). (Hey Barb - I couldn't reply to your email because your anti-spam software doesn't like my email program. But I did get your photo of the lovely socks!)

Anyway, today I must send you over to Clio's blog where she shows her own KAL efforts-to-date and provides a self-drafted, toe up, simple sock recipe.

I totally want to learn toe up socks, though I don't have any challenges with toe-grafting or Kitchener stitch lumps and bumps (which Clio says she struggles with sometimes). I just like the idea of knowing another method - one which is better to work if you have limited yarn. Thing is, I haven't really been motivated to learn a new method in the context of a complicated pattern.

I do love sock recipes (the likes of which A Simple Sock is). I just want to know the gist of things, and the steps (and some links to the techniques required to do the steps) so that I can feel comfortable giving it a go.

Let's say some of you are interested in the KAL, but not in my pattern's cuff down method, well, Clio's pattern is a great alternative.

Finally, check out the colours of her sock - knit in ToshSock - seriously the most delicious yarn on the planet. Those Tosh peeps really know how to dye.

Two Socks, One Week: Block Those Socks

Baseline: Sock 1 and 2, Day 7
Timeline: 20 minutes / Step 9

The great thing about socks is that, if you work from one continuous ball of yarn, you'll have but two ends to weave in on each sock - the one at the cuff and the one at the heel. I'm sure you'll agree, it doesn't get much less fussy than that.

Here is a tutorial about weaving in the ends, though I'm sure you're old hat at it...

And here's a photo of sock blockers, the likes of which I use:

Clio got me into these... You know how I love a gizmo.

After weaving in the ends, I like to block my socks once, by hand washing in Soak. I use the scent-free kind and add some lavender essential oil for a bit of anti-bacterial fragrance. After washing and rinsing, I roll the socks gently in a towel, first shaping them, and then pressing firmly with my hands. After this, I unroll the towel and slip the socks onto the blockers and I place them, vertically, over a heat vent. They'll dry to perfect shape in under 3 hours this way.

 
Mind you, you can almost as easily lay them out, carefully shaping so that they're exactly the same size and shape, on a dry towel and leave them overnight. That does a good job too.

From here on in, I'll put these babies in the washer and dryer.

But let's cut to the chase. Here's a shot of my finished, blocked socks:

While it doesn't look it in real life, these socks seem quite distinct from one another in photos.

Pretty cute, huh?

(In truth, this yarn, while fantastic to knit with, didn't produce the tightest fabric for me - it's perhaps a bit soft for my loose gauge. My rib is not ribby enough for my liking, though I'm sure, when machine washed, the socks will shrink a bit in the cuff area. Furthermore, now that I'm moving from British style to flicking, my gauge is much firmer. I've just bought another skein of this yarn, in a new colourway. I'm looking forward to applying new knitting techniques to this wool.)

That's the beauty of every pair of hand knit socks - they all have their own mind and hand. From now on, per my results with this sock (actually knit after the one shown in the photo above), I'm definitely going down a needle size in the ribbing, and will continue to make the rib with K2P1. I'm in the mood for a tighter cuff.)

So that's that. I'd love it if you'd link me to photos of your finished socks, or flip me a pic. I would love to see - and profile - your fabulous handiwork!

And, next time you make socks, whether you're a convert to the magic loop method or no, I hope you will bring some of the tips and techniques we've discussed over the last week and month. As always, feel free to leave any outstanding questions in the comments.

Peace out Knit Alongers. Way to start the new year :-) xo

Two Socks, One Week: You Mean We Have To Do This All Over Again??

Baseline: Sock 2, Days 5 (optional), 6 and 7
Timeline: Somewhat less long than the first sock...

Well Happy New Year! Let's get going on that second sock...

Ain't it a bitch? (I mean, a blessing, cuz you get to perfect your method...)

Here is a post about the dreaded "Second Sock Syndrome" to distract you from any hangover-related inertia. That's the malaise that sets in when you realize you've finished one gorgeous sock but, alas, you have 2 feet to sheath. My best avoidance tactic to date is knitting two socks in one week. It doesn't give you the opportunity to feel SSS. Keep on little soldiers!

Of course, you can apply your magic loop knowledge, in the future, to a slightly more complex technique - knitting both socks at once on the same pair of cable needles. That's where I'm going next.

But for now...

Just go back to the pattern and the relevant posts in the sidebar having "Sock 1" in the title. And view them in order, natch. The pattern, along with your notes, should make this second sock a very knowable process.

Note: I tend to take Day 5 off (especially if it's a Friday) and return apace for the weekend. That means I'm committed to knitting a sock, no matter how long it takes, over the weekend. But hey, that's how you get a pair of socks done in a week. 

I'll be back on Day 7 to talk about weaving in ends and blocking.

So, are you done with the first sock? Any meaningful thoughts and feelings you are compelled to share? Let's talk!

Two Socks, One Week: Make the Toe and Graft it Closed

Baseline: Sock 1, Day 4
Timeline: 105 minutes OR Steps 8 an 9 (minus blocking and weaving in ends)

Wait a second... Is it New Year's Eve?? What a great span of time in which to knit! Way to bid adieu to the old. Of course, if you're going to be partying hard, get this done now. And maybe even take tomorrow off - except for reading the next post, of course...

But on with the show:

Step 8 - Making the Toe brings us to the final decrease section, worked within the context of N1, N2 and N3. All of your markers remain in place so it's simply a matter of following the instructions...

• Round 1, as always, is the decrease round. This time, however, you'll decrease 2 stitches in N2 (the top of the sock) just as you'll decrease 1 stitch each in N1 and N3. A total of 4 stitches will be decreased in every R1.

• Round 2 is worked plain.

You'll start with 56 stitches and, over the 18 rounds you'll decrease 36 stitches. At the end, you'll be left with 20 stitches.

Here's how it looks when you've done a couple of rounds:

And here's how it looks when you're almost finished:

 

Step 9 - Graft The Toe

Grafting the toe simply means closing it via 2 rows of live stitches. The end result creates a fabric with no seam. While you're technically using this to seam the tip of the toe, it will look like a fluid fabric. It's like magic!

• Cut a tail of approximately 11 inches. Yeah, you just severed your sock from the skein, but it's cool. You don't need it anymore!

• Ensure that you have 10 stitches on each needle and that those stitches reflect the top and bottom of the toe. This means you'll have to remove the stitch markers and knit another 5 stitches on the needle you're working from, to get things correctly oriented. Otherwise, you will end up grafting such that the large and baby toe stitches touch - which is all wrong. Don't get scared about this. Just look at your sock. How do you need the final toe "seam" to run? Ensure you get your stitches on the needles to reflect that, 10 on each side. As always, needle tips point right and the tail is on the back needle.

• Grafting is done with a regular needle (well, one of the thickness used for working on wool). So put that thread through the regular needle you've had in your notions bag till now.

• Set up the grafting by doing this one time: Purl through the stitch closest to the tip of the front needle. Leave that stitch on the needle. Then knit through back stitch closest to the tip of the back needle. Leave that stitch on the needle. (Note: Video linked to below, shows this).

• What you need to remember, so that you never run into problems with grafting, is that you must complete every 4-step sequence before stopping. I remember that sequence by saying, as I do it: Knit, slip, purl. Purl, slip, knit. (The woman in the video uses a mnemonic that seems overly complicated to me, but maybe it'll work for you.)

Here's a video to show you how it works...

I suggest you leave sock 1 at this point. We'll weave in the ends and block when both socks are complete.

But look at you! Once sock down in 4 days. Now you can either get going with sock 2 tomorrow, or take a day off and knit a bit longer over the two days following. I mean we did start early (and we also gave the week 8 days). Moreover, chances are you'll speed up on the second sock! Note to reader: Do not knit while drunk or hung over.

Today's Questions: How's it going?? Are you having fun? Does this grafting thing make sense to you? Leave questions in the comments. Or just comments! If you're knitting tonight, I wanna know.

BTW, here's my finished first sock, hanging out next to my second sock - remember, I had a head start as the hostess of the KAL! Both are unblocked which is why they look wonky.

Two Socks, One Week: Working the Foot

Baseline: Sock 1, Day 3
Timeline: 105 minutes OR Step 6 (from yesterday's post) and Step 7

So, now that you're finished making the gusset, let's move on to a much more mellow part of the process...

Step 7: Working the Foot is the easiest part of the sock - IMO - especially as the end is in sight. Simply knit those 56 stitches again and again and again till your sock foot is the desired length. Put it on and check every now and again. 7-7.5 inches is what works for me, but this is dependent on the length of your foot and the give in the fabric you're making.

Don't merely consider the ruler numbers. Compare one sock to the other to ensure you've got two socks that look the same. (Note: I neglected to do this, so intent am I on documenting things, so my socks are actually of slightly different foot lengths. Blocking will probably take care of it but, really, don't make my mistake!)

Here's my sock just before it's time for Steps 8 and 9 - making the toe and grafting it closed.  Oooh, fun times:

How's it going for you?

Tomorrow we finish Sock 1, peeps! (well, save for weaving ends and blocking, which we'll save till the very end of the project.) Exciting!

Two Socks, One Week: Set Up and Work the Gusset

Baseline: Sock 1, Day 2 and Day 3  
Timeline: 105 minutes OR Steps 5 (Day 2) and 6 (Day 3)

(Note: I'm putting these concepts into one post, even though you may work them on different days, because they really do go together conceptually...)

For starters, um, what's a gusset? Just to clarify, before we get going, the gusset is the part of the sock that joins the flat-worked heel flap and turned heel to the top of the sock. Without it, you've got no tube. The gusset must also be shaped because your ankle is shaped! And that shaping is done with a bunch of decrease rounds. As with most sock steps, you need to set up the gusset before you can work it.

The Gusset Set Up, or Step 5, starts on the RS row. At this point you will begin to knit, and keep knitting, because we're back to working in the round from here on in.

• Knit the first 8 of the 16 stitches of the heel. Place your green marker. From here on in, as the first technical diagram of the pattern shows you, on page 4, this will be the beginning of the round vis a vis working the stitches throughout the rest of the sock. While I didn't put the green marker on the needle before I shot this photo, it will go right between those two needles...

• Knit the next 8 stitches.

• Now start picking up 16 stitches from the first side of the heel flap. (This video shows how to do this, Continental style...) You may need to try this step a couple of times to ensure that the picked up stitches are evenly spaced. Note: you should be able to pick up one stitch for every slipped stitch on the heel flap, given the number of rows you knit on the heel flap, but don't get fussed. Just end up with 16 new stitches. When you're finished with this step, you'll once again start using those stitches that have been resting on the holder for so many rows.

It's tricky to show the picked up stitches along the heel flap. The video referenced in the bullet, above, gives a better sense of it...

Note: I go through both legs of each slipped heel flap stitches. But you can go through one (as I've sometimes done) if getting through both seems impossible.

• Now place the first of your orange markers... There will be 24 stitches between the green and orange markers.

See the orange marker hanging out on the right needle?

• At this point, the needle holding your just-picked up stitches (the right) will become the back needle. Pull that needle out till the picked up stitches are held on the cable (just like the old days, though not shown in the photo above) and start knitting the stitches on your left needle, the one that has been holding those stitches for all those rows. (It's closure!)

• Before you start picking up the heel flap stitches on the second side, place another orange marker. There will be 28 stitches between the 2 orange markers.

• Now pick up the next 16 stitches from the other side of the heel flap. When you finish this, go back to the 28 stitch section and count back approximately 10 stitches from the third orange marker. Pull the cable out at this point (so as to once again enact a magic loop FROM THE BACK NEEDLE, carefully ensuring that you don't pull out any stitches inadvertently). This will provide you with adequate slack.

• Then pull the back needle out again (maintaining the first loop, you just made) and knit the final 8 stitches to the green marker, beginning of round.

• Knit to 4 stitches after the green marker and pull the cable again to enclose the marker.

I'm showing this from the wrong side, even though you will be knitting on the right side, to indicate how all of the stitches are joined between the markers.

If you're following our KAL, that's all for day 2 of Sock 1... Tomorrow you'll return to this post to reference the section that follows:

Step 6 - Make the Gusset (Read on Dec. 29, Day 2 of the KAL, work Dec. 30, Day 3)

You will now begin to make the gusset - which involves decreases. Word of warning: It's a fussy next row because you need to make the decreases where they're indicated, at the same time as you sort out the magic loop and ensure that you enclose all required markers.

Don't worry though, you'll be just fine! Take it slow. First read through the entirety of Step 6 carefully. Understand that the goal is to have 38 stitches on each side of the cable (or a total of 76 stitches) as of the first row, after the set up, of the new gusset. On the second row, you'll have decreased 2 stitches so you'll have 37 stitches on each side of the needles (or a total of 74 stitches). Enclosing the markers is useful, but not necessary, so feel free to leave that for a row or 2 as you get this section established.

• Ensure for the next round, Round 1, that you understand how the markers delineate the places where the decreases will happen: at the end of N1 and the beginning of N3. N2 is knit plain at this time.*

• Round 2 is knit plain. Make sure you mark off these rounds, on the chart, as you work them.

Every other round, you'll decrease 2 stitches until, eventually, there will be 14 stitches in N1, 28 stitches in N2 and 14 stitches in N3. The total stitch count at the end of the gusset will be 56 stitches.

Here's what it looks like part way through making the gusset:

And here's what it looks like when the full gusset is made:

Once you finish this, Step 6, on day 3, you will immediately start on Step 7: Working the Foot... This is an easy part! That'll be up later on day 3.

*Arguably, my notable value-add, when it comes to having documented this sock pattern, is that I describe how to use markers as delineators in lieu of multiple needles. Understanding this, you should be able to take any sock pattern, devised for DPNs, and easily adjust it for magic loop in the future. Of course, I'm not suggesting I have made up this technique. But I did come up with it on my own, not from any pre-existing pattern I've reviewed.

Two Socks, One Week: Turning the Heel

Baseline: Sock 1, Day 2
Timeline: 105 minutes OR Steps 3, 4 and 5

Dontcha love your heel flap?? It just gets better when now you will Step 4: Turn the Heel. That's when fun-sock, three-dimensionality really starts to occur.

This next part of the process continues to be knit flat (aka with wrong side and right side). It is perhaps the most formulaic and enjoyable part of the whole sock. There's a lot of bang for your buck in the next few rows.

• First do the set up: The pattern instructions explain this straight-forward step pretty clearly. Just keep in mind, you will be turning your work BEFORE you get to the end of the round, which is kind of weird-seeming, at least as far as I'm concerned.

• From here on in this section is very intuitive. Row 1 is a knit row, aka the right side. You're going to slip first stitch purl wise (see instructions from previous post) and knit till one stitch before you get to the gap - you will observe this gap, even if you're worried that you won't. 

See, it's right there!

• At this point, decrease with slip slip knit (see this video for info on how to do this English style. If you knit another way, look it up online with your style as the keyword). Now knit one more stitch and then turn the work (weird seeming, just like in the set up). Effectively, your decrease spans and closes the gap.

What's odd about this, as mentioned above, is that you actually turn around, again and again, in the middle of a row, not at the end. It's likely to feel wrong - unless you're familiar with short rows - but it's the thing to do.

• Once you do turn around, you'll be on Row 2. At this point, you're going to slip one stitch purl wise and then purl until one stitch before the gap. The decrease stitch on this side of the work (the wrong side) is p2tog (see this video for info on how to do this. If you knit another way, look it up online with your style as the keyword). Again, the decrease stitch spans and closes the gap. Then, purl one more stitch and turn.

Keep on as such till you have 16 remaining stitches on your needle and the final 2 rows each end on a decrease stitch. You'll actually finish at the end of a purl row, ready to start the gusset set up on the right, or knit, side.

Here's what it looks like when the baby heel takes shape...

Once you've done a few more rows you get to this point:

Here's what it looks like on the wrong side:

And finally, stitch markers waiting, we're just about ready to set up the gusset...

If you want to know my least loved part of making a sock (not that it's hard), it's the gusset set up. This, we'll discuss in the first half of the next post.

Two Socks, One Week: Knitting the Heel Flap

Baseline: Sock 1, Day 2
Timeline: 105 minutes OR Steps 3, 4 and 5 (Each will be discussed in its own post...)

Step 3 (Heel Flap): I personally like Steps 3 and 4 the most. It's so satisfying to make the slip stitch heel flap, with its weird, sturdy fabric, and to create the turn of heel.

Today, if you're following the one week timeline, you'll knit for 105 minutes or until you finish Steps 3, 4 and 5- making the heel flap and turning the heel and setting up the gusset. If you're still finishing Steps 1 and 2, keep on with that, but do aim to finish Steps 3, 4 and 5 today, if possible...

Administrative Note: These 3 Steps are separated into different posts so you'll see 3 posts about 4 Steps today. Just worry about Step 3 (in this post), Step 4 (in the next) and Step 5 in the post after that. (Note, Step 5 is in the same post as Step 6: Making the Gusset, because they're naturally aligned. but we'll worry about Step 6 on Day 3, tomorrow...)

• Now, first up, you will have to revert to the original beginning of the round for this part of making your sock. That means, if you've encased your marker to keep it from dropping at the beginning of each round, now you need to ensure that the green marker and the round start at the same place. Yeah, it's a tiny bit fussy. Just do what you did to enclose the stitch marker, in reverse.

And, for what it's worth, as of now, we're back to working in rows because we're about to knit Steps 3 and 4 flat.

• Ensure you've got 28 stitches (or half of the total) on each needle. Push the stitches on the needle (not associated with the working yarn) to the cable. Then, remove the stitch marker. You won't need it for the flat-knitting portion.

This orientation reflects the true beginning of the round. It's in the same spot as that wherein the magic loop begins...

• By way of set up, turn the work around and purl a row. Yeah, go in the opposite direction, which will seem very weird at this point, I realize.

• At the end of this single purl row, you'll be at the right spot to begin making the heel flap - a back and forth / "right side, wrong side" experience wherein, on the first row, you slip the first stitch purl wise. (That means put the right needle into the stitch on the left needle, as if to purl, but slip the stitch off the left needle to the right instead.) Then knit a stitch, then slip purl wise the 3rd stitch and repeat stitches 2 and 3 till the end of the round. You'll end on a knit stitch. On the second row, a purl row, you'll slip the first stitch purl wise and then purl each stitch to the end of the row. That's all you need to do for the next 32 rows. 

When you start, you work the right side. The other half of the sock stitches are enclosed on the cable behind (can't see it in this photo...)

• Just make sure to mark off every row on the chart provided in the pattern. And a quick note about the tick charts in the pattern: I've produced one for each relevant step. When you get to sock 2, you can simply use a different tick in the same boxes. (This saves space on pattern pages. Next time, though, I might aim to make the charts more two-sock friendly...) I like to check mark for the first sock and use a dot for the second...

But back to the heel flap... Here's what it looks like from the right side:

And here's what it looks like on the wrong side:

There are those unworked stitches being held on the cable (referred to above). Also, see how the fabric is ribby-looking on the front, and weavey-looking on the back. That's the mark of slipped stitch heel flap fabric...

Next up, later today, is Step 4: Turning the Heel and then the monster post that covers Step 5: Setting Up the Gusset and Step 6: Working the Gusset. You'll be in very good shape if you make it through Step 5 today...

But enough of this - what about you? How's the knitting going? Do you have questions? Please do leave comments. I'm interested to hear from you...

Two Socks, One Week: Getting Started Cuff to the Ankle

Baseline: Sock 1, Day 1
Timeline: 105 minutes OR Steps 1 and 2

Of course, it only occurred to me 5 seconds ago that I'm going to have to publish the posts for this KAL in 4 days - not 1 week - given that you need to make 2 socks and all of the meaningful info applies to the first sock.

Hmmm...

So that's why I'm starting a day early. (I will put up a post or 2 while you're making sock 2, but obvs, you need the instructive deets before then...)

Now, in order to ensure that there's distinction between the steps, and so as not to make one post overly complex, my goal is to more than once per day, when relevant.  I will indicate, in the first post of the day, if you should check back later for more. Hopefully this system will work optimally for everyone.

But enough preamble, let's talk about today's plan: Starting the first sock!

1. First up, cast on with your method of choice... 
2. Then, as required, I suggest that you check back over my video tutorial post if you need a reminder about how to get into the swing of magic loop. It just occurred to me that I forgot to link you to Gail's post having a terrific video which describes how to fix, super easily, a twist in the stitches after the first row. It's so simple when you see it - why didn't I ever think of it before?? You really must check it out!
3. Of course, your primary working document is the pattern, which you can always access here.

Today, you're going to work either a) for 105 minutes or b) till you finish the cuff and leg of the sock. At the top of each post, you'll see a baseline reference with suggested timelines and daily "step completion". I hope it will help to keep you on track! Feel free to ignore it, natch, if you're working to a different schedule.

Presuming you get through the cuff and leg of sock 1, by the end of Day 1, you'll have knit 6 inches - 2 inches of rib and 4 inches of stockinette.

A few pointers:

• Don't forget to place the green marker at the beginning of the round (where the tail is), once you get your magic loop going. For this part of the sock, we require only one marker - the green one.

• If you go down a needle size for the rib portion (not instructed, but potentially desirable) do ensure that you knit onto the "sock body" size needle you'll use on the first row of knitting (after the rib). If you find it tricky to decrease AND move from one needle to another on the same row, decrease on the first knit row - on the smaller needles first. Then move to the new needle on the second row of knitting.

• If you're using self-striping socks with long stripe repeats, I suggest you consider how you want those stripes to start. If there's a top colour you prefer, maybe separate the skein of yarn into 2 separate skeins. Or at very least remember that you may need to sacrifice a few yards of yarn when you start the second spot, to ensure you get the same striping.

• Don't forget - and I have done this before! - to decrease 4 stitches on the first row of the leg of the sock (Step 2). How you do this is up to you, though I do give a suggested method in the pattern. I find this gives an additional snugness to the sock leg that I really miss if it's not there. (Note: I have fairly skinny ankles and calves.)

BTW: At 6 inches, just before beginning to work the heel flap, this is what my sock looks like:

Arguably, between the magic loop tutorial and the relatively simple nature of this phase of the sock construction, this will be (hopefully) a fairly simple couple of steps. But pls. leave questions in the comments. Or, if not questions, please let me know how it's going for y'all. Do you find this amount of knitting easily doable in a day? Is it a breeze? Kind of challenging? I only have my own experience to go by so I'd love to know your perspective.

Total aside: I can see, by the view of my 8000 photos (wait for them), that I will have to do my rib on smaller needles in projects going forward. And maybe move to 2x2 rib. I'm just not loving my loose stitches - even if they get prettier after blocking...

Next post, which will look at Step 3, the working the heel flap, up tomorrow...

Two Socks, One Week: We're Almost There...

So, tomorrow you'll see the first of my pre-composed knit-along posts. I'm starting a day in advance of our scheduled start time (Dec. 29) because I want to give you a bit of a head start. You'll be able to read, if not begin, on Dec. 28, if you so desire.

But today, having just started the pair of socks I'll be knitting while we all knit along (I had to finish the KAL socks ahead of time because, um, had to take photos!), I have a couple of interesting things to tell you about how I've shaken things up with my latest pair.

Of course, you too can try these alternative ideas, but the pattern - as it stands - is still the pattern we'll work from (and which the photos will refer to). Note: I have found a couple of small errors in the pattern, my apologies. They're not tremendously meaningful (you'll have no problems) but they drive me crazy. After this KAL, I'll post up a revised version. But won't have a chance to do so till next week at the earliest.

Anyway, my current socks are different than the pattern version in that:

• I went down a needle size for the rib portion. (Great idea for loose knitters out there...)

• I used the cast on from the Eastern European video linked to in this post. It is SO much better, so much stretchier, than the long-tail cast on version I found on knittinghelp.com (not that I'm not grateful for that version, since I've used it until now).

• I changed up my rib from K1P1 to K2P1. It produces a stretchier rib (great for tight knitters out there) and it also gives a more refined look. Frankly, it's a prettier rib - especially if you knit loosely.

And finally (but I do NOT recommend this for you! I'm playing fast and loose):

• I am knitting in 2 different styles on this pair of socks - and I'm seriously improving with my chosen alternate method: flicking. Flicking is actually a variant of right-handed knitting (British style), which is very appealing to me because, truly, I prefer to knit right-handedly. It just comes to my brain more naturally than the left-handed version (at least at the moment). The difference between my regular style (see the magic loop videos for a visual) and this new style is that flicking requires you to keep your right hand on the needle at all times and to use your wrist action and index finger to pivot the yarn (vs. "throwing" the yarn). I've chosen to alternate one row of my regular British style with one row of flicking - so as to maintain some semblance of tension constancy. Let me tell you, this learning (previously applied to swatches of different needle sizes) has been SLOW going. I'm starting to approach the same pace with flicking as I achieve in my regular style, though not consistently, so I can see how it is likely to be MUCH faster, in the course of time. Undoubtedly, and fantastically (from my vantage point), it is incredibly efficient.

So, there you go. BTW, I'm using the remainder of that manly glove yarn for this pair of socks. That yarn has been a real hit. Everyone loves it.

And I am keeping this pair for myself. Really.

Two Socks, One Week: Deconstructing the Pattern (Part 2)

So, a propos of yesterday's post, today is when I suggest you review the Simple Sock Pattern from beginning to end. When it comes to familiarizing myself with new patterns, I like to find a comfy spot, get myself a snack and a glass of wine. Natch, sub in any beverage, the consumption of which you find pleasant. My point is that relaxation is your friend.

Happily, this pattern is a simple as they get (IMO), and it doesn't reinvent the wheel. If you've made socks before, and you've watched my magic loop videos (presuming you haven't used the technique in the past), you're likely going to have a very easy time of this part.

Let's kick it off with Page 1, the administrative part of the pattern - the place where you'll find all kinds of necessary information about what you'll need to create a sock having dimensions described by the pattern. Pay attention to the length of your circular needle cable. I've mentioned it before, but do ensure your cable is at least 32 inches long, or the magic loop is going to be tricky to impossible. Remember, in the video tutorials, how I refer to the 2 loops of magic loop? If your cable is shorter than 32" it becomes very tricky to find the span required to create both of them.

You'll see, by the indicated gauge, that my knitting, on needles of 2.25 mm is a loose 7.5 stiches per inch. Many get 9 stitches per inch on a needle of that thickness. The good news is, that if your calf is a bit sturdier than mine or your foot a bit wider or taller (note: my dimensions are provided in detail on page 1 of the pattern) , you can still use the same needle size and pattern numbers indicated and, chances are, unless you knit as loosely as me, you'll be fine. See these posts for more detail...

The remaining important piece of info, on Page 1, is that about required notions. They're easy to come by online or at any knitting store...

Finalize the Bits and Pieces: It's December 19 today. That gives you a full 10 days to get anything you may be missing. Do you have enough yarn? Do you feel the need to get another cable needle, just in case? On that note, this line (not plugging the eBay vendor, whom I don't know) of ChiaoGoo needles is very affordable and the cable is particularly excellent for magic loop projects as it is quite malleable. The needle to cable join is entirely adequate too. Sara tried them, on my suggestion, and she loves them. And neither of us particularly likes bamboo. Note: They're NOT the metal ones with the red cable.

Now Let's Take it in Order: Read the rest of the pattern, first time through, at a high level. I hope that this pattern facilitates this because I specifically articulate the 9 steps involved in making each sock. Once you have a sense of each step for each sock, all you need to do is ensure that you have a comfort level for the specific stitching that happens during each step.

Then Read That Pattern Again: Look carefully at each step. If there's something you've not done before, check it out on the net, in a book, or feel free to leave a comment asking for clarity. Sure, we'll talk about various elements of each step during the week long KAL, but maybe you want to get some concepts ironed out ahead of time...

This pattern comes with handy charts for keeping track. So that's one thing you won't have to worry about. But get yourself a nice notebook, for future projects, and maybe take some extra notes to help you next time.

Decide to swatch or not. And then do it, if you're going to. And don't forget to a) swatch in the round and b) block your swatch, if that's the approach you choose.

A bit of extra info: The two diagrams in this pattern show you the circumference of the sock in terms of a) stitch numbers at given points and b) "DPN needles" (denoted by the three tick marks or, for the magic loopers, stitch markers).

One of the reasons I've done this is to show you how a pattern using DPNs (i.e. 3 needles with stitches evenly distributed over each, knit with a 4th needle) is easily converted into a magic loop pattern (wherein you simply have to keep track of half the stitches on one side of the cable and the other half on the other side of the cable.

If you've never made socks before, via any method, this aspect won't be particularly relevant though the diagrams should still assist you re: stitch numbers and marker placement. If you've always used DPNs, I hope that this will help you in understanding how the set up is distinct between the two methods, though the outcome is the same.

The thing to consider - and I'll remind you when we start the KAL - is that your stitch markers are the ultimate guide. Just keep approximately half the stitches on either side of the cable, at any given time, and follow the instructions.

So, this is it on Simple Socks till Dec. 29 (will aim to post on Dec. 28, if possible, travel depending), when I'll be back to chat about the day-to-day knitting associated with each step of making each sock. Be prepared to knit for 105 minutes on that day - unless you're fast - in which case you may get through that day's suggested steps, in less time still. Please leave your questions, whatever they are, in this post and I'll respond to them, as best I can, over the next 10 days. I also encourage all readers with knowledge to weigh in and give us your perspective.

Remember:

• Feel free to do this in your own time, with your own pattern (if that's what you prefer), on your own terms. I think it's empowering to complete a project quickly. But those finished objects are just as lovely, even if they take longer than a week to finish.
• If you're going to follow along - but not participate, feel free to ask questions, or to answer them.
• If you intend to participate - or even if you're not but you want to give this KAL a bit of press - please link to it on your blog or tell your knitting friends.  

Two Socks, One Week: Deconstructing The Pattern (Part 1)

If you look at the side bar, over on the right, you'll notice that I'm keeping all of our KAL posts in one handy place. This is a good time to hop on over to the post called "Two Socks, One Week: Download The Pattern" and, um, download the pattern.

That's cuz, over the next couple of posts, I'm going to talk about how I manage patterns in general (my process, as it were) and how I developed the Simple Sock pattern to assist me (and hopefully you) in creating simple socks in the simplest way possible.

How Kristin Approaches The Knitting Pattern for Efficiency:

1. The first thing I do is read the whole pattern through. Inevitably, it's all doublespeak and I have a moment of intense anxiety, throw my hands up in the air, and decide I'm never knitting anything again.*

I don't recommend that part of my process.

2. Mind you, soon afterwards, I move into mindset B, wherein, since everything is so miserable anyway, I decide I might as well have another look at things. Just for kicks. Inevitably, at this point, I start to speak "knitting", if rustily.

Here's what I hate about written knitting language: Could these people not use a complete sentence occasionally? Or even a complete word???

Alas, it is what it is. And even if I don't particularly like the conventions of the written language, I'm kind of at its mercy. But here's where it's not so bad...

3. Type any knitting gobbledy-gook into Google (17 letters with no reasonable meaning) and, I swear, a minimum of 5 resources (in a variety of formats) will pop up in an instant. Do not fear the lingo. As long as you have a couple of knitting books and a web browser.

If I don't understand what I'm reading, I search the pattern for some explanations (usually on the back page), then I hit the 'net.

Now, I do love the kind of pattern that answers all of the questions in the way that one of those "slim" patterns overlooks. I love the ones where they explain why you're doing something, that show pictures, that spend some time giving you the extra deets which an experienced knitter won't require, but which I probably will. And, though I've rarely if ever seen it, I love patterns that facilitate your note-taking within the instructions themselves.

4. This is key: I urge you to take "good" notes in order to stay on track with any kind of efficiency. You may keep those notes in the vault of your mind, but I don't recommend it. Which is why, every time I begin a project, I keep a book beside me and clearly indicate the project I'm working on, the part of the pattern I'm documenting info about, and the clear results of my work. The strong likelihood is that you will need this information again, if only to complete the second half of that particular project. It is not a waste of time. It's a serious time-saver.

5. If you intend to swatch, now's the time.

Let's turn this general concept to my sock pattern for a second. I've said elsewhere that you might choose to swatch or, with experience, to use a needle size you're comfortable with. My goal is to emphasize the simple in this project. Not the fitting. But your goal may be to explore both of these. In which case, swatch.

But, if you're on the simple track, recall my recent post about how I knit loosely. Note that my pattern, unaltered, is recommended for a certain size of foot (happily within a broad range). And, if you know you are a tight knitter (kind of like I'm a loose knitter), consider one of these three suggestions:

• Go up a needle size or 2 (before swatching - or in lieu of it). 
• Of course, you could also just add a few stitches to the pattern without having any meaningful impact on the directions or how to work the socks (as long as you do so in batches of 2). 
• If you have knit many a simple sock, then I suggest you use your standard needle size - UNLESS your standard simple sock pattern uses a vastly different stitch number at cast on.

But this is the main thing: You can make your alterations on the fly, as I've done in the past. The sock is a little tube, the dimensions of which will be quite clear with only an hour of work. The time it would take to swatch, if you think about it. (Of course, this sock won't be blocked when you're making your sizing assessments, but the yarn I've suggested is the sort that doesn't vary after blocking in any meaningful way...)

One more word about sizing and then I'll simply leave it to KALers to ask questions, as they arise: I truly don't think sizing is going to be the slightest issue for the majority. For what it's worth,  next time I make socks I intend to go down a needle size - without changing any other element of my pattern. I'm sure it will only produce a snugger sock, which I would prefer, in all honesty. So if you knit somewhat more tightly than me, and ankle and foot circumference dimensions are similar to mine (see page 1 of the pattern), I don't think it's problematic. Of course, if you're my polar opposite, carefully consider the bullets above or, better yet, just bite the bullet and swatch.

Next up, Deconstructing the Pattern (Part 2), wherein we'll refer to my actual pattern and its various sections, in more detail.

In the meanwhile: How do you approach your new knitting projects and their patterns? Are you a planner? Do you rush right in with the spirit of adventure? Let's talk!

*Quick side bar: The reason I emphasize 1., above, is because you will potentially be sidelined by concepts you don't get (or notions that you need) if you don't have some sort of concept of what you're about to do. I would far prefer to know what I have to figure out before I get 6 hours into a project. I mean, if I don't want to deal with it, I don't want to have wasted my time...

Two Socks, One Week: How Do I Set Up Magic Loop? (Tutorial)*

Let me start by thanking every person who's ever uploaded a video tutorial - whether I liked it or not. This whole "watch me while I show you" thing is a challenging process requiring good technology, the ability to speak clearly and intelligently for minutes at a time, charisma, comfort with the medium and an ability to keep your freakin' hands in the frame.

I cannot say that I have been overly successful on any of these fronts but I do want to share my process with you, if only to show you that "regular people knitting" is an actual thing. Furthermore, my goal is to be your hostess and guide on a learning and creative journey I hope we will undertake together from Dec. 29 - Jan. 5. (That's a plug. Pls. see the sidebar for a the KAL post archive.)

I truly hope this video gives you a meaningful sense of the how of magic loop cuz, if it doesn't, I sure as hell have wasted many hours. Of course, on camera, I forgot to say one of the most relevant things, IMO, about how magic loop suffers: by its name!

Magic loop is actually not about creating one loop (the one we all think of when we talk about dividing the stitches on either side of the cable and pulling that loopy cable out from between them (see video for more).) Magic loop is TWO loops. The second one is entirely necessary and, for people who struggle with the method, potentially overlooked.

You'll observe, as you watch the endless footage of me knitting, that in order to join the flat cast on row into a small-diameter tube, the first thing I have to do is to "pull the back needle out" (moving the stitches, formerly on that needle, onto the cable) so that the back needle, when it joins the front needle to create the first (or next) stitch of the round, produces the second loop.

If it doesn't make sense here, don't worry. You really will see it ad nauseum (but not particularly artfully) in the video.

A couple of other points because I'm vain:

• My house does not look as crappy as it does in the video (even though there's not much of it to see). Lighting video is apparently an art, as all the porn cinematographers will tell you.
• Yeah, my hands really are as huge as they look on the screen. I have huge hands. What can I say except they're not as noticeable when you see the rest of me at the same time. And on that note, I really have to start showering more often and putting on makeup. I've hidden my hideousness because, duh. 

And now, without further ado:

How to Begin A Simple Sock, worked in Magic Loop: The First Three Rounds Set Up

Round 1:

I hope you can laugh @8 minute mark when my hands completely leave the frame - despite the fact that I speak about what they're doing at length. Just go with it...

Round 2: 

Round 3:

Moving to Round 4:

I was all set to trash-talk DPNs compare DPNs to magic loop in the next post :-) but alas, I'm not smart enough yet to have figured out how DPNs work. I guess I'll have to omit that element of the KAL because, if I don't have the knowledge, I don't have the knowledge. So, next up, some detailed discussion about the pattern.

Till then, please leave feedback if these videos make sense - or even more so if they don't! We don't want them out there in the universe if they need improving. And, if they do make sense - and you're new to the method - please do a bit of practice over the next couple of weeks. Then, you'll be old-hat at the cast-on and magic loop set up by the time we start the fun stuff.


*I considered calling this "Magic Loop in 4 Easy Videos of a Total Duration of Approximately 20 Minutes" but, on balance, I don't imagine that that title is an up-sell.

Two Socks, One Week: The Pattern

Click here for the pattern: A Simple Sock

Note, I did test this link, so I hope it's going to work for everyone. Do let me know if you have challenges accessing a printable version of A Simple Sock.

As mentioned, this is the first pattern I've ever documented. I think it's accurate to say that I did not devise the methods, but I did construct the process. As mentioned, I did it in such a way that - I hope - will take much of the guess-work out of the equation. (It's called hitting you over the head with info :-)) The goal is for the pattern to act as the repository for all of your info as you work. There are charts within each of the relevant stages, so that you simply need to check off your rows per round as you go. I believe that efficiency is achieved when you can put all of your notes into the pattern as you go.

If you find any errors or lack of clarity - either on first read, or when we're working on the socks together - please don't hesitate to let us all know! I want to ensure this works for now, and in the future. I've done what I can to refine it in such a way that it's error-free. But different people work differently and info that is totally clear to me might be unclear for other users.

You'll note that this sock is made in 9 distinct steps. Of course, during the KAL we'll talk about these in more detail. These steps do not teach methods - they simply refer to them on the assumption that you know how to do what is instructed. But of course, I will, during the KAL, refer you to sites that show ways of doing the various things that are required. I will also speak about these things in detail - providing info and tips of my own - so that you are supported in the construction process, even if you've never used one of the methods before.

This concludes the first phase of our KAL - the info-gathering part. We'll pick it up again in mid-December, when I'll start getting into the knitty-gritty (ha!) about magic loop and some more deets about the pattern.  Till then, please continue to ask questions and provide feedback!

Reminder: Phase 2 is still about learning, not doing. We'll actually get going with our socks on December 29. Anyone who's on the fence about participating, this still gives you lots of time to get your materials together and consider whether this pattern works for you.

Two Socks, One Week: Yarn and Needles - And Gauge

I tried to find a way to turn this into a couple of posts, but I really do see contingencies between all of these three concepts: yarn choice, needle choice and gauge. So this post is apt to be, um, full. But my aim is to make it super useful - and comprehensive.

Let's return to the basic premise: we're making a pair of simple socks. Not fancy socks. Not complicated socks. Not over-the-knee socks. Just simple, cuff-down, mid-calf, rib cuff, stockinette socks. Now, this doesn't mean they're going to be dull. Oh no! Some of the most exciting things in the world are simple. But we're going to achieve our primary impact through yarn choice. And simple will be decided, in some measure, by working with yarns that are knowable in their properties.

Here are my recommendations. (Note: You can completely ignore me and you'll still make great socks. They just won't be as simple.)

• Use a yarn that's 80 per cent wool and 20 per cent nylon (or synthetic) OR

• Use a yarn that's 100 per cent wool (consider superwash so that it can go in washer and dryer) that's designed specifically for sock-makers

• Ensure the yarn is fingering-weight. We're going for a gauge that's more-or-less 13 stitches (horizontal) and 20 rows (vertical) in 2 inches. You can certainly choose thicker yarn, but you'll end up having to alter the pattern to do so.

• Use a yarn that's got a good rep for sock-making - you want something that will keep its shape, that will knit a nice, dense stitch, that isn't too hairy, that feels strong and sleek on the skein. Some examples include:

• Regia Twin Colour (or others in the Regia line) makes incredibly durable socks. In truth, this German-made yarn is not the luxest, but it makes a seriously dense stitch. If you want a sock that mimics one you'd buy, you may get closest (IMO) with this brand.

• Also in the "work-horse" category (but much more fun) is Sweet Georgia Tough Love Sock. It's more pricey, but you're paying for the small-vendor experience and the care that tends to go along with it.

• Of course, now that I've tried Madelinetosh Tosh Sock, I don't know how I'll ever use anything else again. If I were you, I'd just buy this in your favourite colourway and call it a day. It's superwash merino, but I've already made one of my 2 socks from it and I feel it's produced the nicest outcome. It holds its shape but it's soft, soft, soft.

• Please feel free to weigh in in the comments about sock yarns that work for you. I'm sure peeps will be grateful to learn more.

But How Much Yarn Should I Buy??

I suspect you'll require between 300-350 yards. I've made these very socks with 250 yards (in the Regia, somehow - and I realize it makes no sense since they were the snuggest fitting) or with about 325 yards (Sweet Georgia, Cascade Heritage). I think you'll be safe with 350 but, if you choose to make your sock larger (in the circumference, foot length or height of leg), then I'd go with 400 yards.

Other Considerations:

• If you're new to knitting socks, choose a slightly variegated yarn in a colour that isn't too dark. I mean, you don't have to go crazy, but the variation in colour and the brightness will assist you in determining things like how many rows you've worked and whether you've accidentally dropped a stitch.

• If you're going to go with self-striping yarn, consider getting a skein with a short pattern repeat. The larger the stripes, the fussier it is to match one sock to the other.

• If you're on the fence, spend a few extra dollars and get the nicest yarn you can afford. These socks are special! You're going to wear them or gift them but more to the point, working with nice yarn for hours and hours is worth the money. And good yarn makes a better, longer-lasting sock.

• Ya'll know I love cashmere, but really, don't make these in cashmere. It's too prone to stretching. It's weaker than wool. It's not the yarn I devised this pattern for. So know that, if you opt to use a yarn with these properties, you'll may end up with a sock that fits differently than the pattern indicates.

Here are the finished dimensions of the sock made from the pattern:

Close to or exactly 9 inches in length from heel to toe. The rib cuff measures from 3.25 – 4”, flat, unstretched (depending on the amount of give in the yarn). All rib, despite how it holds its shape, should still stretch to 5.5” at least. The ankle measures 4”, flat.
 
And here are the dimensions of the foot their designed to fit: 9 inch length from heel to large to. Ankle at cuff height is a circumference of 8.5". Widest point of foot: 8.5' at the toe base. I like a snug, but not tight sock. We'll talk more about this when we start to knit...

*Pre-purchase Action Item: Take a moment with a tape measure and another pair of socks you own. Hand-knit socks are best but thick-ish store bought will work too. Measure the dimensions of the sock as per the info provided above. Measure your foot too. These are useful comparators to the info provided above and will help you to decide whether my pattern, as is, is right for you, or whether you'll need to make certain elements smaller or larger when you start to knit.

My point is, if you're not going to deviate from this excessively - and I don't suspect you'll have to - then 1 skein of sock yarn having at least 350 yards should be enough. Of course, buy 2 skeins so that you can make the very same pair again (and have extra yardage should you need it) - perhaps with a couple of tweaks having learned from the first pair. See below, in the section about gauge, for more on this.

How About the Needles?

Use the type of circular needle you prefer - but I like Addi turbo lace needles (they're titanium with pointy ends). I don't find them so slippery that it's a problem - but I do think the pointy end is key. Bamboos may also work well, if you're someone who tends to lose stitches.

The reason I recommend Addi is because the join on those needles (between the needle edge and the cable) is impeccable. No snagging or dragging will occur and, when you're working with magic loop, this is KEY. Mind you, Addis cost more than other brands. Furthermore, sometimes, the plastic cable is really committed to its loop (which makes moving the stitches around a bit tricky). You can soften the cable by steaming it over a kettle, but I also find that the metal cables found on certain, thinner-gauge ChiaGoo needles are more pleasant to maneuver. And those needles are much less expensive - if potentially less durable.

BTW, if you don't have access to an LYS that sells Addis, I've found them online at very good prices via eBay. I have purchased from this vendor with no issues...

You'll want to work with a 40" length - or 32" in a pinch, if you've already got a set lying around. Smaller than 32" won't work. Note: when you refer to circular needle cable length, you're actually considering the entire length of the needles from tip-to-tip. Don't ask me why.

Recently I purchased mega small circular needles - 20 cm from tip-to-tip as they're the size you'd need to knit socks in the round, on a circular needle, without using loops. I haven't had the nerve to try them as a recent foray knitting with a 16" cable to make a hat almost threw me over the edge. It was fussy and hard on my hands in a way that magic loop never is. So what you think might be easiest and most efficient is not necessarily easiest.

Though I've made many socks with different fingering-weight yarns, I've only used one needle size: 2.25mm. Some of those socks have been a bit snugger, some a bit looser but they've all fit more than adequately. Unless you knit insanely loosely or insanely tightly, I'm going to go out on a limb here and suggest that this size will probably work for you too.

Kristin, are you insane?? (The Part About Gauge)

Look, we're making a simple stockinette and rib sock, not a sweater. Not even a sock with a fancy pattern, which might impact gauge considerably. Would it be terrible to admit I've never made a gauge swatch for a pair of socks? I would NEVER advise avoiding to swatch and block under sweater-making circumstances, but does everything need to be a production?

Note that I've advised you use very firm yarn, the kind that doesn't tend to grow or lose its shape. This is because you don't want a sock that's going to look very different after blocking than before. And furthermore, I've suggested that you use the kind of yarn that's wash and dry. Everything loosens in the wash and cinches in the dryer. In a worst case, you can let them air dry or tumble a little longer.


But keep in mind, I basically used my first sock-knitting adventure as a test of gauge. I put my first sock on as I worked to ensure that it would fit. That's how I adjusted the pattern on the fly. Furthermore, I suggest, for your first simple sock experience, that you buy enough yarn to make the socks twice. Then you can easily refine the second pair without having to worry about any added variables. Plus, you get another pair of socks.

Thing is, if you're going to swatch for mega-accuracy, you're going to have to swatch in the round. Flat gauge is not a reliable indicator of round gauge because knitters tend to knit and purl at slightly different tensions and, when you knit in the round, you only use knit stitch. And it's really just as easy to start your sock in the round as it is to do a round swatch. I mean, you can't get much smaller in diameter and still have a reliable outcome with a swatch.

So, my recommendation is that you let your own working-style be your guide. If you are comfortable casting on a couple of times and using an hour or two of the sock-knitting timeline to confirm your sizing works, that's great. If you've knit many socks and you understand your gauge in this needle size with sock-yarn, great.

If you want to do a gauge swatch in the round, perhaps a good idea if your dimensions are very different from the pattern's and/or you are a new knitter / have never knit on tiny needles, check out this useful tutorial.

I will be knitting with fingering yarn on a 2.25mm needle and I will probably use 325 yards of yarn when all is said and done. Over many instances I've learned this works for me. The small variations in size produced by yarn properties or my own gauge tension at any moment are entirely acceptable to me. And I'm pretty fussy.

But you need to be happy with this process so I urge you to swatch if it makes you comfortable. And, if you're going to, the next couple of weeks will provide an adequate opportunity to do so.

So, today's questions: Do you find this info helpful? Are you horrified by my methods?? Do you have questions about yarn or needles or anything else at this time?

Next up: The pattern - so that you can see how this all plays out on paper. Cheerio.

Two Socks, One Week: How About These Crazy Timelines?

The first sock I knit took me 20 hours. (Admittedly, I was pretty sick at the time so let's say my brain wasn't at its best). The second took 10 hours. The third, 7 hours. And, since then, that's pretty much how long it takes me to knit one simple sock.

Fourteen hours may seem like a lot to dedicate to a project in one week, but socks are very portable. And there's a weekend built in. I tend to make one sock between Monday and Thursday and the second on the weekend. That's about 1 hour and 45 minutes of knitting on each weekday (or less, if you knit on Friday). Remember, this KAL lasts a week. Lots of daily knitting is not the new norm - unless you want it to be!

You may wonder how it is that I'm suggesting you will be just like me in this respect. And, what if this is your first sock? Should you expect it to take 20 hours??

Here's what I have to say about this:

• I'm not a fast knitter. I've said this before and it's very true. I'm simply focused. Having said this, I do my 1 hour and 45 minutes in front of the TV from 8 pm - 10 pm, which is infinitely pleasant in the beginning of the dark and cold winter.

• I've worked really hard - and over many instances of sock knitting - to produce a pattern that removes the guess work. You'll see later in the week when I upload it (ahem - that is when I figure out how to upload it. But hey, if I can write a knitting pattern, I can figure out how to upload a freakin' doc to Blogger).  I've got diagrams to show how the markers and stitches fit together. I've got colour coding. I've got little tables with tick boxes, to make sure that you know where you're at in the process with as little extra effort as possible. Of course, I aim to use very clear language and to avoid ambiguity (the bane of knitting patterns, IMO). The less you have to wonder what I'm talking about (and the KAL will also clarify many elements and provide resources), the more efficient this will be for you. Remember: I had no KAL, and the pattern I started with wasn't designed with magic loop in mind. That added to my time-challenge notably. I hope our community undertaking will facilitate things for everyone! 

I also want to reiterate that there is no prize at the end for finishing your socks in a week. Well, except for socks. The instructions will be here when you need them. The comments are open. If you would like to spend 2 weeks or a month, then go ahead. Please don't feel that you are exempt from this KAL if you like a different pace.

Having said this, you all know me well. You know that, in as much as I'm a process knitter (I love the yarn and materials and the set up is everything for me - we'll talk at length about this), I'm really a product person. I knit for the outcome. I enjoy setting myself time challenges because I'm competitive that way. I want to take a photo of finished socks and put it up and get positive feedback. I want to archive the finished project in Ravelry.

I can't tell you how enjoyable I find that element of knitting so I urge you, just for kicks - and if it suits you - to get on board with the speedy timelines. If nothing else, it will make for a fun story at a dinner party! To which, natch, you'll have to wear your socks.

Next Up: Specifics about yarn and needles. Or maybe first we have to talk about gauge. Egad, it's a web! Next up, something fascinating.

Two Socks, One Week: Let's Do This Thing

OK, it seems we have a quorum of interested participants so let's make it official!

Here's what I propose re: high-level timing. Some of you have pointed out that it's important to know about yarn and needles sooner rather than later - so that you can purchase before the Xmas rush. Of course, that starts to raise topics such as "what about gauge" and "what length of circular needle is optimal". I'm going to address those questions up front along with thoughts about yarns that work best. And I intend to do it sooner, rather than later (even if we see those posts and then have a bit of a break on the topic), so that you can pull together supplies.

In brief (and posts will happen to clarify what's happening when):

From Now and Through the Week of November 25: 

• A discourse on yarn and the optimal needles for magic loop aka what do I need?
• Gauge and socks: How necessary is it really? This will no doubt be supported by a post that considers the dimensions of the socks I've made vs. the dimensions of my foot
• Meet the pattern (just to show you what we'll be working with - not to discuss it in any depth at this time)
• How do we do this in a week? (What does this mean, practically, in terms of day-to-day knitting requirements?)

In the Middle of December (not too close to Xmas, so y'all can give it some attention):

• A in-depth discussion about magic loop - how and why
• An in-depth discussion about the pattern and how it will work (I hope!) to facilitate fun and fast completion of your socks
• Magic loop vs. DPNs - hopefully I'll have used DPNs at this point. I am chagrined to tell you that, heretofore, I've never knit in the round without using magic loop. I'm planning a gloves project to start in the next week, for which I do intend to use DPNs. Needless to say, this post may be more conceptual than "long-term-experienced-by-Kristin"-based.

The Project Week (Dec. 29 - Jan 5)

• Technically this gives us 8 days, or 2 Sundays. This is more for me than you - because I intend to post the first post on the 29th but you might not start your work till the Monday. I'm going to stay one-to-two posts ahead of the curve so that you have enough to occupy you, but not to overwhelm.
• Obvs, sock 1 is the same as sock 2, so they'll be more to say in the first part of the week than the second. But I'm ready for lots of questions - which may require additional posts - and I do think there are considerations when knitting the second sock we'll need to address.
• There is a way to use 1 pair of circulars to make 2 socks simultaneously. While it's very appealing, I haven't tried it yet cuz it would be some work to figure it out and, as I've suggested, the thing I like most about knitting socks is that I don't feel compelled to get all inventive. Note: We won't be using this version of magic loop sock knitting in this KAL though I welcome discussion about it.

I'm so excited to work with you on this as a community undertaking - skill and experience sharing - and with enthusiastic feedback from you all. I would ask that, if you do intend to participate, and you have a blog, that you might mention this KAL in one of your upcoming posts, so that we have an opportunity to get the word out. And on that point, it's very enjoyable to see finished objects so, if you care to take a photo of your completed socks (and post it up on your blog - or email it to me so I can post it here), that would be great. No pressure, though. This is about learning and discussion - and making 2 socks in the most efficient fashion. You don't have any obligations...

Thoughts and feelings about timelines? Topics we'll cover? Do you have something you think I should add in? Let's talk!