True Blue

OK, peeps, this is yet another post which capitalizes on everything blue - for starters a great sale that Ms. Denise of Blue Gardenia is hosting - but only from Jan. 15 - 17. If you are even thinking about buying a vintage pattern in the next few months, don't be crazy. Buy it then and save a lot! (Note: you do have to buy 3 patterns to get the discount but, trust me, it will take about 4 minutes to find the perfect 3. Her inventory is extensive!) I've got my eye on a slip pattern from the 70s- like I need another?! - and a 50s dress that happens to be petite (and it has a 37.5" bust). Um, that's just like me!

But let's focus on today's slip: the Blue Ruby:

Very Elizabeth Taylor, no?

You can just vaguely see the asymmetry in the lace on either side of the centre bust. Do you see how one side (right as you look at it) has embroidered leaves and the other side has star-shaped flowers?

I'd have modeled this on the dress form but its shoulders are too wide. I can get it over my head and boobs (just), but I've already damaged the silk (ugh) by trying to get it to conform to the shape of an inanimate form.

At any rate, here's what I can tell you about this version:

• The lace cost a lot of money. Probably too much.
• And I don't love it. It's too mesh-y, which means a) it's effectively weak and b) very starkly shows a bra underneath it. And you know I'm not wearing this without a bra.
  
• The pattern, asymmetry is almost indiscernible, however.
• I've decided that I'll only sew with denser lace in the future.
• Oh, apropos of stitching down the lace seams: this time I did press both seam allowances to one side before top stitching at 1/8". The lace was too transparent to do it differently. And this didn't add any bulk.
  
• The bra straps were actually pre-made. I got them from Bra-Makers Supply last year and what good fortune. I hate assembling hoops and sliders. Hurts my brain. Also, these straps are 1/2 inch, not 5/8 inch wide - which makes the slip look more delicate. I mean, they're not holding up any weight to speak of so that width is just fine. That the straps are black is actually handy. Since I'll likely wear the slip with a black bra underneath, I'd prefer not to have 2 diff shades of straps to contend with.
  
• The silk skirt is beautiful and fits perfectly. Alas, the handkerchief hem didn't go so well. It looks great from the right side (see photo above), but the inside looks a bit gerbil-sewn.
• Once again, I top stitched (under stitched) the bodice seam allowance to the slip. But this time I didn't first serge that seam. It was too narrow.
• Here's something I didn't mention the last time, but it's germane: Because I increased the length of the bodice, the scalloped lace is now too high under my arm pit. I'm going to have to shape the pieces that abut under the arm so that they don't do this again. Not exactly sure how I'm going to accomplish this.

All this being said, I think it's a pretty good second effort. I'm glad I didn't use cheap materials. You can really feel the luxury of these fabrics.

I really do think that, for a woman of ample bust, the Ruby Slip gather bodice will be easier to fit. Silk charmeuse has a lot of natural give and I have a intuition that an underbust gather will "hug" the breasts (depending on their shape, and the gathers, natch). Silk is also stronger around the upper back and over the chest. Finally, it's easier to work a garment in one fabric, than in 2 disparate fabrics which meet a stress-bearing join. A decorative edge of lace is pretty, but not structurally integral.

As always, I welcome comments. Which of the 2 slips do you prefer? The shorter pink one? Or this one? I only wish I could present them in the same way for better comparison...

Slippery Slope: Part 3

I made this baby twice a) because I had enough fabric and b) because I LOVED the motif. I mean, it's not like you've never seen black lace and pink/cream fabric before, but it screams sexy-chic rich lady to me. And who doesn't like dressing with that in mind?? I did one longer version and one shorter. The shorter one, which I made second, was much better constructed because I'd come to terms with the (insanely difficult) fabric at that point.






Pros: The very high-end lace works perfectly and the fabric feels incredibly luxe. The colour scheme is most appealing.

Cons: The longer (first-made) slip suffered through a lot of construction-challenges because the tricot simply DID NOT want to accept the stitches. Oh, I worked with a ball point needle and I adjusted the tension numerous times. I practiced on scraps. I changed stitch length and width. I did all the right things. It wasn't till I went with a totally bizarre stitch (that prob shouldn't work on stretch fabric, but did) that the problem was resolved. I don't know that my machine - or maybe my skill level - was optimal with this fabric. Nonetheless, here they are!

And here's are a few more pretty, pastel gratuitous shots of slip porn!

Slippery Slope: Part 2

This slip is made of some mystery tricot, the feel of which is awesome. Regrettably, the nicer the feel, apparently, the more awful the experience of trying to get it to hold together with some lace and elastic.

Pros: I bet it will work excellently against to thwart static and it's so lovely. The colour contrast (navy blue and fuchsia) works beautifully, these pics notwithstanding. It's well constructed.

Cons: It could be better constructed, like, if the fabric hadn't been such a bitch. It took a LONG time to make this one. The first one flat out failed.

Slippery Slope: Part 1

I figure, since I tortured you with my being tortured about making slips, I should show you the final result. It was, IMO, rather successful in the end. Of course, "the end" implies 20 hours were spent and extra trips to the textile district made and costs increased and food forgotten.

So I've decided to maximize the photo op. Over the next 3 posts, you will meet my lovelies one at a time (2 are variations on the same item so I'll spare you and count them as one).

I'll start with the first one (I mean the first one I didn't have to throw out):





Pros: I made it and it's wearable and I LOVE the complementary colours and a shiny woven slip is more elegant that stretch, IMO.

Cons: The material, while woven and having body, is not optimal. It's a misery of fraying, which you can see if you look closely in photo 3 (why am I advertising this??). I zigzagged over all the edges before finishing them, but I think it's a stopgap measure. I mean, not everything has to last forever, right?

(I warn you, if you fit a small/medium and I've known you for 10 years or more, chances are you will be the recipient of one of these. Even this one :-))